
Glass, 
Book. 



V ' 



• , 



LIFE IN FEEJEE/" V ~* 



//' 



f\w fmtB among ffje Cannibals. 



"Truth is strange, stranger than fiction." 



BY A LADY. 



BOSTON : 
WILLIAM HEATH, 79 CORNHILL. 
1851. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, 

By BENJAMIN WALLIS ; JR., 

In the Clerk's office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 



J. M. Hewes & Co., Printers, 81 Cornhill. 



PREFACE, 



Expecting to embark with my husband on a long 
zoyage to the Pacific Ocean, I was induced to make 
% record of passing scenes and events, for my own 
amusement, to beguile the many lonely hours which 
must be experienced when far away from home and 
friends, and to afford some little entertainment to my 
personal friends on my return. Subsequently, how- 
ever, those whose opinions I respect at home, and 
the missionaries at the Feejee Islands, with whom I 
had the happiness of becoming acquainted, advised 
me to offer my journal to the public, as it contain- 
ed many facts never before published in America, 
and some things which have not appeared in any 
land. This opinion is thus expressed by Rev. James 
Calvert, Wesleyan Missionary, in a communication 
addressed to Rev. C. W. Flanders, of Beverly, Mass. 

"Vewa, Feejee, Dec. 7, 1849. 
"Rev. Sir, 

" lUhas been the happiness of the Wesleyan Mission 

families who reside in Feejee, to be favored with 



IV PREFACE, 



visits from Mrs. Wallis, a member of your church. 
She has been one with us, has labored to promote 
the cause of missions, and has eagerly availed her- 
self of every opportunity to attend the means of 
grace with us at the mission stations. 

" I have been favored with a peep at her journal, 
and have been pleased with her account of the state 
of society in popish Manilla, and with her remarks 
on tedious and long voyaging, and on the various 
places she visited. But her journal is peculiarly in- 
teresting and instructive, on account of its copious 
delineations of the condition and practices of the 
Feejeeans. As far as I have read, I consider her ac- 
counts quite correct, and they must have cost her much 
time and deep application. No account has been 
given to the public, which details so fully the past 
and present abominations of cannibal Feejee. This 
long neglected and deeply degraded people have ex- 
cited much Christian sympathy, expense, and effort, 
and the Great Head of the church has been pleased 
to succeed our labors with his abundant blessing. 
Long and firmly established principles and precedents 
are giving way; the entrance of God's word is 
spreading light, and the chiefs and people are saying 
in effect, ' We know that the Lord hath given you 
the land; for the Lord your God, He is God in hea- 
ven above, and in earth beneath.' 



PREFACE. V 

f-f The glorious gospel of the blessed God has been 
attended with a saving energy, so that a goodly num- 
ber of the most debased of our species have been com- 
pletely turned from darkness to light; from the power 
of Satan unto God. 

u l think it exceedingly desirable that Mrs. Wallis's 
journal should be published; and that. too. as speed- 
ily as possible. I hope you will coincide in this 
view, and hasten the publication." 

Many others have expressed themselves decidedly 
in favor of the publication of the journal, believing 
that it would be both entertaining and useful. Influ- 
enced by these opinions, the following pages are sub- 
mitted to the reading public; and if they contribute 
to the gratification and entertainment of any ; espe- 
cially, if they are the means of exciting deeper feelings 
of philanthropy, and of awakening a livelier interest 
in Christian missions, which aim at the enlighten- 
ment and elevation of the benighted and degraded of 
our race, my most fondly cherished desires will be 
gratified. 

M. D. W. 

November, 1850. 



INTRODUCTION, 



Architects telt us that the vestibule of a building 
should correspond with the edifice into which it con- 
ducts us. It should correspond in architecture, in 
proportion and in taste, so that the vestibule should 
not cause us to anticipate in the building what we 
do not find when we enter it. 

Something of this relation should the introduction 
of a book bear to the book itself. There should be 
proportion in length, correctness in statement, appropri- 
ateness in imagery, and in all, a scrupulous avoiding 
of anticipating for the reader, in the body of the vol- 
ume, what he does not meet when he arrives there. 

The work before us possesses some features of un- 
usual merit and interest. It contains an account 
of a strange and savage people; of whose manners 
and customs little has been known, until within the 
last few years : a people whom it has been difficult 
and dangerous to approach. 

The natives of the Feejee Islands have, heretofore, 
been regarded as the Ishmaelites of the South Pacific 
Ocean, who would never endure the discipline of 
civilization, and who, if ever converted to Christian- 
ity, would be the last brought into the kingdom of 



Vlll INTRODUCTION. 

heaven. Their natural ferocity and habits of canni- 
balism have discouraged all attempts even to civilize 
them, much more to make them the followers of the 
meek and lowly Jesus. 

Since, however, the residence of Christian mission- 
aries among them, they have been found, in some re- 
spects, an interesting people. Beneath their wild and 
uncouth exterior, have been found marks of intellec- 
tual power and sagacity. Minds have been discover- 
ed there, which, under the discipline of refined cul- 
ture, might have ranked high upon the scale of men- 
tal attainment. The record of their traditions and 
wonderful events would, if given in full to the his- 
torian, afford him material, unsurpassed in value and 
interest. 

Their improvement in civilization within the last 
ten years has been, to a certain extent, truly wonder- 
ful. Many of these islanders have abandoned their 
cannibalism, and introduced into their habits of 
living, the manners and forms of humanized life. 
Their hideous looks and attitudes have been changed 
for the decent appearance and deportment of civilized 
society. 

And no less wonderful has been the change in their 
moral natures and condition. Many of these tribes 
have not only become civilized, but Christianized. 
They have not only abjured cannibalism, but have 
embraced the gospel. 

These changes, so astonishing in their character, 
have been, under God, wrought by the English Wes- 
leyan Methodists, a sect always ready to every good 
work, and found wherever the sons of men are to be 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

enlightened and saved. They have gone to these 
islands of the sea, planted their missions, and in a 
measure unexpected by themselves, and surprising to 
others, have gained access to the minds and hearts of 
these besotted and ferocious islanders. In some in- 
stances whole tribes have abjured their obscene rites 
and fearful customs, and have worshipped the living 
and true God. Places, which once witnessed their 
cruel feasts, have resounded with the voice of prayer ; 
and their habitations of cruelty have been converted 
into habitations of mercy and love. 

The source from which this information comes to 
us, can be relied upon. This has not always been 
the case. Occasionally we have been furnished by 
narrators with brief accounts of the Feejeeans. The 
medium through which they have received their 
knowledge, has not, however, always been of the 
most truthful character. Navigators have sometimes 
entered upon their journals information imparted to 
them by those whose policy it was to describe every 
thing connected with this people, as marvellously as 
possible. Those who have written upon their man- 
ners and customs have not, in many cases, been eye 
witnesses of what they describe. 

But not so has it been with the author of this vol- 
ume. For five or six years she has been personally 
acquainted with these strange tribes of the South Pa- 
cific, either by residing in the families of missionaries, 
or living in her floating-house in their harbors. She 
was the first white female that many of these island- 
ers had ever seen. On this account, they were dis- 
posed to regard her with superstitious reverence and 



X INTRODUCTION. 

fear. Uncivilized and savage as they were, they ap- 
proached her with a deference and respect which they 
had not shown to any one else. 

She has been a part of the history which she 
writes, visiting their dwellings, witnessing their 
scenes, and has been a guest at their entertain- 
ments. For these reasons, her opportunity for be- 
coming acquainted with their nature and character, 
for observing their manners and customs, was what 
other writers had not been favored with. On account 
of these superior advantages which she enjoyed, we 
may safely confide in the contents of this volume, as 
not exaggerated in statement, or overcolored in dra- 
pery. And yet we confess, in reading some sections 
of the work, one might be half inclined to think 
the author is dealing in hyperbole; that, forgetting 
herself, she is reveling in fiction, and not narrating 
sober facts ; that, like the dusky Moor before the 
Senate of Venice, when speaking 

" Of the cannibals that each other eat, 
The Anthropophagi, and men whose heads 
Do grow beneath their shoulders, " 

she has a suit to gain, so marvellously strange are 
some of the incidents and scenes which she describes. 
But whatever, in her rare knowledge of this people, 
has tempted her fruitfully imaginative mind, to write 
a book exaggerated in statement, or overcolored in 
drapery, we are sure such a temptation has been dis- 
regarded, and that no volume of narration has been 
before the public more true to the reality, than the 
one before us. 



INTRODUCTION. XI 

We have said that the introduction to a book 
should not anticipate for us in the book itself, what 
we do not find on perusing it. That we have not de- 
parted from this rule, we trust will be found true in 
our remarks upon the style of the author. There is 
a pleasantry in the manner of narration, which gives 
increasing interest to the contents of the volume. Its 
descriptions we regard as unsurpassed. In following 
our author in her delineations of facts and incidents, 
we seem to be gazing upon a moving panorama, 
where all its scenes and shadings are vivid and im- 
pressive, or upon a stage, across which, as the actors 
move, we see all their features and mark all their 
costume. And, then, there is a change of character, 
so graphically described, that, while we see a differ- 
ence in the parts performed, we can hardly persuade 
ourselves that the different parts are performed by 
the same persons. Here, the ferocious islander ap- 
pears with his formidable war-club — and there it is 
exchanged for the implement of husbandry. Here, 
descending with savage cries upon a neighboring 
island to murder its unsuspecting inhabitants — and 
there assembled with them in the same sanctuary, 
listening to the words of eternal life. Here, around 
the burning pile, feasting upon the flesh of their 
slaughtered captives — and there around the commun- 
ion-table, celebrating the dying love of Him in 
whom they have believed. 

And here we are disposed to pause and ask, what 
has wrought such a change in these once barbarous 
islanders 1 What has converted them into enlighten- 
ed and peaceful communities? What has opened 



XU INTRODUCTION. 

their bays and rivers to the quiet entrance of our 
commerce, and sent them to the sea-shore to welcome 
us to their confidence and friendship? It is the gos- 
pel, the glorious gospe] of the blessed God, taught in 
their dwellings and preached at their mission stations. 
Surely the gospel has wrought a change here, which 
is marvellous in our eyes. In has, indeed, been the 
power of God unto salvation. 

To the public, then, we commend this volume of 
rare information and interest; a volume, unprecedent- 
ed in its scenes and events; a volume, which should 
obtain a wide circulation, not only among our com- 
munities in general, but especially among those who 
love to contemplate the wonder-working power of 
the Holy Spirit upon benighted minds and depraved 
hearts, and more especially among that religious and 
devoted sect, who have been successful in winning so 
many of these degraded tribes to Christ. 

C. W. Flanders. 
Concord, N. H. 



CONTENTS, 



CHAPTER I. 

Arrival at New Zealand 5 Visit at Pahia; Departure from New Zea- 
land ; Arrival at Feejee ; Visits from the Natives ; Arrival at Bau ; 
Visit from Tanoa, the King of Bau, and his son, Thakombau; 
Departure of the Zotoff5 Vevva and its Missionaries 5 Its Chiefs 5 
Destruction of Vewa, 17 

CHAPTER II. 

Lasakau Procession 5 Murder; Massacre at Vewa ; Islands of Fee- 
jee ; Storm ; Rebellion at Bau, 35 

CHAPTER 111. 
Gods of Feejee ; The faithfulness of a Feejeean ; Temples of Feejee ; 
Verani Renounces Heathenism ; Murder of a Lasakau Chief 5 
Strangling of Women, 53 

CHAPTER IV. 

An Instance of Feejeean Justice ; Visit to the Lasakau Widow ; A 
Sabbath in Vewa; A Feejeean Princess; Arrival of the Zotoff; 
Meeting of the Chiefs on board ; Polygamy ; Departure from Vewa; 
Treachery of a Chief; Arrival atBua; Its King; Introduction of 
Fire-arms, 71 

CHAPTER V. 

Mathuata and its Chiefs; Funeral Ceremonies ; Conversation with a 
Priest; Wreck of the Ship Glide, of Salem ; Jekombea; The Ex- 
iled Chief ; Visit to Vesongo ; A Feast, 86 

CHAPTER VI. 

Intelligence from Bau ; The Frolic of the White Men ; Burning of 
the " Beech de mer " House ; Murder of the King of Mathuata; A 
Story; Ingratitude 3 The Rescue, 102 



XIV CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Missionary Intelligence 3 Murder of Four White Men at Navu 5 An 
Amusing Occurrence 5 Retova's Barber 3 Manufacture of Cloth 3 
Productions of the Islands, 124 

CHAPTER VIII. 
The Piot 3 The Unwelcome Guests 3 The Flight 5 False Statements, 136 

CHAPTER IX. 

Destruction of Revva5 The Prisoner 5 Return to Bau 3 A Mistake 3 
Arrival of the American Consul 3 The Lazy Boy 3 The Escape ; Re- 
turn to Bau 3 Vatai 3 The Tonga Chief 3 Queen of Revva 3 Captives 
at Bau 5 Origin of the War with Rewa, 150 

CHAPTER X. 

Visit to Bau 3 A Feejeean House 3 A Temple 3 Visit to a " Buri " 3 
Departure from Bau 3 Mock Piety of Namosimalua3 Departure from 
the Islands 3 Arrival at Manicola 5 Loss of Two French Ships 3 
A Dangerous Situation 3 The Island Flower-vase 3 Young Wil- 
liams's Group 3 Straits of Bernardino, 171 

CHAPTER XI. 

Arrival at Manilla ; Its Inhabitants 3 Its Buildings 3 Bazars 3 Visit to 
the Pina Factory 5 The Escolta 5 Departure from Manilla 5 Return 
to the Young Williams's Group 3 Its Inhabitants 5 Our Departure 5 
The Greenwich Islands 3 The Dangerous Reef 5 Pleasant Island, . 185 

CHAPTER Xll. 

Return to Manicola 3 Supposed Treachery of the Natives 3 Arrival at 
Feejee 5 A Delicious Feast 5 Arrival at Bau 3 Visit of Tanoa 3 De- 
struction of Two Whaling Vessels 3 Natawa War 3 Ceremony of 
Anointing a Warrior, 203 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Visit at Bau ; The Fancy Ball 5 The Ride 3 Arrival of the Mission 
Schooner, Triton 3 A Perilous Adventure 3 A Novel Mode of Pun- 
ishment 3 Execution at Bau 3 The Bachelor, 223 

CHAPTER XIV. 
The National Dance 5 The Wedding ; Death of the Princess 5 War 
with Nakelo 5 The Lunatic 3 Evil Spirits 3 The Alarm 3 Strangling 
of a Woman at Bau, 236 



CONTENTS. XV 

CHAPTER XV. 
Departure for Ba ; The Soul Destroyer ; The Attack 5 Account of 
One Buried Alive, 256 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Departure from Ba; Arrival at Bau ; Second Destruction of Rewa 5 
Arrival of the Missionaries 3 Abandonment of the mission at Somo- 
somo 3 The Dinner; The Coronation, 272 

CHAPTER XVII. 

The Ordeal 5 Our Departure for Manilla; Arrival ; Christmas in Ma- 
nilla; Execution ; A Procession; Cemetery ; Departure for Amer- 
ica ; St. Helena; iVrrival at Home, 286 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Departure for a Second Voyage to Feejee ; Arrival at New Zealand ; 
Death of Two Missionaries; Departure from New Zealand; Arri- 
val at Feejee; Trials of the Missionaries; The Gale, 313 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Departure for Ba; Feejeean Names ; Dillon's Rock ; Prospect of a 
Battle; Visit of a Missionary ; A Feejeean Plot; The " Soro," . . 330 

CHAPTER XX. 

Visit to Raverave ; Feejeean Affection ; Visit to Bua ; Feejeean 
Courtesy; District Meeting; Arrival of the ZotofF; Departure from 
Bua; Arrival at Vetelavu ; Thakombau's Visit ; Cannibalism, . . 357 

CHAPTER XXI. 

The angry chief ; Popery in Feejee; Conspiracy; A Letter; Arri- 
val at Bau ; Dirge ; Our Final Departure from Feejee ; The Uncas ; 
Arrival at Manilla; Departure; Small-pox on board; Deaths; St. 
Helena ; Home, 390 



GLOSSARY OP EEEJEEAN TERMS. 



Ba ni valu. — A fence of war. 

Beech de mer. — A sea slug. 

Buri kalou. — A sacred temple. 

Buri bolo. — A house to sleep in. 

Bulu. — Another world. 

Buka waqa. — Hell fire. 

Balawa. — A pine-apple. 

Kali. — A native pillar. 

Kuru — An earthen vessel to cook 

food in. 
Kaise. — A poor person. 
Kawai. — A kind of potato. 
Kalavu. — A rat. 
Lotu. — Christianity. 
Lekn. — A woman's dress. 
Lovo. — An oven. 

Lovo mbokolo. — Oven for the dead. 
Mate ge Mbau. — Messenger to Bau. 
Mbokolo. — A dead body. 
Mboli mboling. — Thanking. 
MandraL— Bread. 
Mbete. — A priest. 
Marama. — A title for the wife and 

daughter of a chief. 
Marama-lavu. — A title for a wife and 

daughter of a chief of high rank. 
Masi. — .Native cloth. 
Na-mata-ni-vanua. — An owner of the 

land. 
Ndawa — A fruit not unlike a plum. 
Ndua, whoa. — A salutation. 
Bapalagi. — A white person. 
Qalova. — A ceremony used on re- 
ceiving company. 
Kara. — An open space of ground, 

where meetings and feasts are 

held. 



Solavu. — A feast. 

Solavu vaka masi — A feast where 
native cloth is presented. 

Sara sara. — To observe, to explore, 
to see. 

Solanga. — Concubine. 

Soro. — l'o ask pardon for an offence. 

gala. — A head-dress. 

Saka. — A term used without refer- 
ence to gender, as Sir and Mad- 
am. 

Satika. — A vessel to hold water. 

Tui. — King. 

Turaga-lavu. — A chief of high rank. 

Turaga. — A chief. 

Tambu. — Forbidden. 

Tutuvi. — A covering for a bed. 

Tvfndree. — One who assists in a 
beech de mer house. 

Tombi.—A neck ornament. 

Turaga ndena. — A true chief. 

Vata. — A shelf of any description. 

Vaka lolo. — A pudding. 

Venaka. — Good. 

Vari. — A plot, a conspiracy. 

Vale vatu. — A stone house. 

Vale kau. — A house built of wood. 

Waqa lavu. — A large vessel. 

Waqa vanua. — The same. 

Waqa ni lotu. — A vessel where bad 
conduct is not allowed. 

Yandi. — Madam. 

Yanggona. — A root producing a stu- 
pefying effect upon those who 
drink it. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 



CHAPTER I. 



Arrival at New Zealand — Visit at Pahia — Departure from New Zealand- 
Arrival at Feejee — Visits from the Natives — Arrival at Bau — Visit from 
Tanoa, the King of B;iu, and his son, Thakombau — Departure of the 
ZotofF — Vewa and its Missionaries — Its Chiefs — Destruction of Vewa. 

Bark Zotoff, July 22, 1844. 

I embarked this day on board the abovenamed bark,, 
to accompany my husband on a voyage to the Pacific, 
intending first to stop at New Zealand, and then proceed 
to the Feejee Islands to procure a cargo of " beech de 
mer." For many years my husband had been accus- 
tomed to visit these islands on trading voyages, and had 
become familiar with the language and customs of their 
inhabitants. On our passage out, nothing occurred wor- 
thy of particular note. It is sufficient to say, that we 
had the usual complement of squalls, calms and strong: 
breezes, and I had my full share of sea-sickness. 

Nov. 17. We are now in sight of land. How re- 
freshing to the eye that had grown weary with gazing 
on sky and water for the space of four months ! 

18. To-day we are riding at anchor in the Bay of 
Islands, the entrance to which is not visible from our 



18 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

bark, and we appear to be lying on the bosom of a 
beautiful basin, so smooth is the water. Directly in 
front of us is the town of Kororarika, which appears 
small, consisting of a few houses along the shore, and 
cottages scattered here and there on the slope of the 
hills behind. Nothing is to be seen back of the town 
but lofty hills not particularly verdant. 

19. Yesterday Mr. W. called at the house of Capt. 
Clayton, a gentleman with whom he had formerly been 
acquainted. He was absent; but Mrs. C. invited us to 
make her house our home while we remained in the 
place. We gladly availed ourselves of this invitation, 
and I soon found myself once more on terra jirma. We 
were received by Mrs. C. with a warmth of manner 
which was truly grateful to our feelings ; indeed, one must 
be deprived of all society of her own sex for at least four 
months, to be enabled fully to appreciate such a recep- 
tion. We found Capt C.'s house to be one of the pretty 
cottages I had admired from the bark. It is situated on 
the declivity of a hill, and commands a fine view of the 
harbor. In the afternoon some friends of Mrs. C.'s 
called, and invited us to walk. We were soon equipped, 
and sallied forth to climb the rugged acclivities of the 
hills, which I found rather tedious, having been unac- 
customed to such exercise for so long a time. When we 
reached the hill-top, we came in sight of another harbor. 
On looking beyond, nothing meets the eye but hills over 
hills, covered with a kind of fern, of a dark olive green. 
I am told that there are more than fifty varieties on the 
island. 

20. This morning I received a fine bunch of flowers, 
with the compliments of Mr. and Mrs. Caflin, and a po- 
lite invitation for us to call with Mrs. Clayton and walk 
in their garden. During the morning I was preparing 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 19 

letters for home. In the afternoon Mrs. C. and myself 
called on Mr. and Mrs. Dudley. Mr. D. is settled 
here as the pastor of the Episcopal Church, for a short 
time; after which, he is appointed to go somewhere into 
the interior, as a missionary. I found them warm- 
hearted and very social. They appeared truly devoted 
to the great and good cause in which they are engaged. 
After a long and pleasant visit, we took leave of Mr. and 
Mrs. D. with reluctance, and departed for the residence 
of Mr. and Mrs. Caflin. They met us at their gate, and 
accompanied us around their beautiful garden. We 
could not admire it enough; it was truly an oasis, — a 
garden blooming in the desert. We remained here a 
long time, feasting our eyes upon the rich beauties of 
nature, which were so nicely arranged by the good taste 
of the owner that we seemed not to tire, nor take note 
of time as it passed. Mr. W. soon joined us, and we 
were reminded, by the departing rays of the sun, that 
we should be wending our way homeward. We passed 
from the garden to the house, and after remaining a 
short time, departed. 

21. This morning Mr. W. procured a boat and men, 
to take Mrs. C. and myself across the harbor to a 
place called Pahia, where Rev. Mr. Williams, one of 
the first missionaries to this place, is settled. Mr. W. 
was absent. Mrs. W., who is a fine, active woman, re- 
ceived us with apparent pleasure, and showed us about 
their premises. The mission buildings are situated in a 
little vale, at the foot of a lofty hill. They consist of a 
few dwelling houses, a chapel, and a printing office. 
They had gardens also, filled with the useful and orna- 
mental. We had not been here long when Dr. Ford 
and his wife came in. They had been to Mrs. C.'s to 
call upon us, and learning where we were, had followed. 



20 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

I learned that Mr. W. had been a missionary here about 
twenty-one years. As our time was limited, having en- 
gaged to meet Mr. W. at Wapoa, I could not learn 
much of their doings. 

It had commenced raining fast when we embarked in 
our little boat. We had a distance of three miles to 
sail, but the men rowed hard, and in due time we arrived 
at Wapoa, opposite the consulate. The consul and Mr. 
W. met us at the landing, and we were conducted to the 
residence of the former. This fine mansion is situated 
on a small elevation, and commands a pleasant view in 
front. Roses, geraniums and many other beautiful 
flowers were blooming there, but no lady was to be 
found to grace so delightful a home. Its residents 
were not Benedicts, and although we found a handsome 
house, richly furnished, yet there appeared an air of sol- 
itariness, a want of something to perfect the whole. The 
consul favored us with music, and treated us with re- 
freshments, after which, seeing no signs of pleasant 
weather, we took our leave, and after a sail of half an 
hour, arrived home. 

23. It rained immoderately all day. As I was con- 
versing with Mrs. C. about the mission families, I in- 
quired if there had ever been a family at that place of 
the name of Myers. She replied that there had been a 
merchant of that name, but no missionary. My husband 
and myself were visiting, about two years since, in Sa- 
lem, Mass., when a lady said to my husband, "Is it true, 
Mr. W., that when you were last at New Zealand, you 
gave my son a bottle and a dollar, and directed him to 
go on shore, to the store of a missionary, and purchase a 
bottle of brandy ?" "It is true," replied he; "I inquir- 
ed of a man on board, who lived on shore, where brandy 
was to be bought, and he said of Mr. Myers, the mission- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 21 

ary. Your son was directed thither; procured the ar- 
ticle and brought it on board." Mrs. C. said that could 
be easily explained. The natives and loafers, who live 
along the shore, call every one who is not a heathen, a 
missionary; and use the word as we use the word, 
" Christian." We say that England and America are 
Christian lands, and their inhabitants are Christians, yet 
many are not, in the real sense of the word. So, they 
will say of any one here who is not a heathen, " He mis- 
sionary." This brought to my recollection an incident 
which 1 heard Mr. W. relate a short time previous. On 
a former voyage to Feejee, a "Kanaka," who was in his 
service, wished to be discharged, giving as a reason, 
that he had found some relatives on shore, and he wished 
to go and live with them. " But," said Mr. W., " these 
persons live with the missionaries, and you cannot live 
with them." " Oh, yes I can," he replied, " cause I 
missionary too." These facts will account for many of 
the unfavorable reports which come to us from the mis- 
sion stations. 

24. To-day Mrs. C. and family, with several other 
friends, accompanied Mr. W. and myself to our bark. 
We showed them our vessel, entertained them according 
to the best of our ability, and enjoyed a pleasant inter- 
view. From the vessel we repaired to the shore, when 
it was proposed, by one of the party, that we should as- 
cend to the top of Flag-Staff Hill. The proposal being 
agreed to, we commenced our toilsome way. Some of 
us said, iS Oh, dear," while others breathed short, but 
our journey, like every thing else, came to an end; and 
we reached the spot where England's proud banner 
waved. About a month since there were signs of a re- 
bellion here, and this flag-staff was cut down by the na- 
tives, but was immediately erected by the agents of the 



22 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

English Government. There is now a great deal of 
talk about an insurrection; some fear that there is some- 
thing wrong, while others laugh at their fears, and re- 
gard them as groundless. We seated ourselves around 
the flag-staff just as the sun was sinking into the west, 
surmounted by a host of resplendent clouds. A spot was 
pointed out to us where lived a widow with three chil- 
dren about three years since, who were all murdered by 
a native. She had employed him to get in some sheep 
which had strayed away; some dispute arose about the 
pay, and the savage murdered the whole family. He 
was tried, condemned and hung for the crime. From 
our elevation we could see several beautiful valleys and 
bays; the scenery was bold and grand, but there was a 
want of verdancy to make it beautiful to me. The bright, 
round, full moon rose in all her pride and glory, and as 
she lighted us on our way home, I was asked if America 
could boast of so beautiful a moon. On our arrival 
home, poor Mr. W. drew a long breath, and remarked 
that he would never be caught going up another hill like 
that again. After tea we felt quite rested, and, for my- 
self, I can truly say that I enjoyed the excursion much. 
25. This morning I attended the native service in 
the chapel. About forty natives were present. It was 
deeply interesting to see those, who were once canni- 
bals, now engaged in the worship of the true God. 
Two of the worshippers were chiefs, whose faces were 
entirely disfigured by being tattooed; the lips of the wo- 
men were also tattooed. Strange taste this for a woman 
to imagine that blue lips add to her beauty. At 11 
o'clock we attended the English services in the chapel. 
I was truly glad to join once more with the people of 
God in prayer and praise. The sermon was plain and 
practical; the subject, the Christian's hope. After the 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 23 

services were concluded, Mr. and Mrs. D. spoke to us, 
and gave us an invitation to dine with them. There are 
two chapels here; one is a Catholic, and I believe they 
have as many converts as the Episcopal. The Episco- 
pal chapel is not yet finished, nor does there seem to be 
any prospect of it at present. It was once supposed that 
this place would be the seat of government, but the Gov- 
ernor resides at Auckland, and nearly all the wealthy of 
this place have removed there. 

27. We took leave of our kind friends, and came on 
board for the purpose of sailing for Feejee; but as there 
was too much wind for us to get under way, we did not 
attempt it. Our stay at New Zealand was so short, that 
I had not opportunity to learn much of the place or its 
inhabitants. It first greets the eye with a long exten- 
sion of rocky coast, interspersed here and there with 
woodland hills and sea-beaches. I have been told that 
the traveller, as he goes inland, finds the country more 
level, and some spots very fertile. I could not learn that 
there were any native vegetables or fruits, except the 
" kumuru," — a kind of sweet potato. The Irish potato 
was brought here by Capt. Cook, and is now quite abun- 
dant. The climate is between the extremes of heat and 
cold. The inhabitants are a robust people, with straight, 
black hair, a broad forehead, and thick lips. The coun- 
tenances of the men are much disfigured by their prac- 
tice of tattooing, the females tattoo their lips only. They 
are an exceedingly impulsive people, seldom, if ever, 
deliberate, but are governed by the impulse of the mo- 
ment, regardless of consequences; hence their cruel- 
ties are without warning. The gospel is doing some- 
thing among them; for cannibalism is vanishing, or is 
practised only in secret. 

Dec. 5. After a pleasant passage of ten days we ar- 



24 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

rived in Feejee, and anchored at an island called Ova- 
lau. It is a beautiful island, mountainous, and covered 
with verdure. Several canoes are along side, and many 
natives are on board. They are nearly in a state of 
nudity; they are of a dark brown color, and appear 
quite active; hair, when short, resembles the hair of an 
African, but unlike that of the Africans, it grows quite 
long, is often dyed yellow, or brown, and dressed in 
a variety of fashions. We have a chief on board of the 
name of Verani, or France. About nine years ago there 
was a French vessel here for the purpose of trade. Ve- 
rani was on terms of intimacy with the captain, and was 
on board nearly all the time. The chiefs of Bau com- 
pelled him to murder the captain and take the vessel, 
which he did. The seamen escaped; the natives not 
knowing how to manage a vessel, soon got it on a reef, 
and it was broken up. Several white men have for many 
years been living on the island of Ovalau, but they have 
been lately driven from their home by the supreme ruler 
of Bau, and are now settled at a place called Solavu. 

6. We sailed round Ovalau and anchored at a small 
island called Motureke. The schooner Warwick, Capt. 
Cheever, of Salem, is at this place, and we have been 
favored with a visit from Capt. C. and Mr. Saunders. 

7. We weighed anchor and sailed for Bau, which 
may with propriety be called the capital of Feejee. The 
island is small, being only two miles in circumference. 
A king and many chiefs reside there. The ruling chief 
is named Thakombau, although Tanoa, his father, is the 
nominal king, and has been a very powerful one in his 
time, but is now quite aged and his son bears rule. In 
the afternoon we received a visit from Thakombau. His 
Majesty was saluted by the firing of three large guns. 
He is tall, rather good looking, appears fully aware of 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 25 

his consequence, and is not destitute of dignity. He 
wore an enormous quantity of hair on his head, and sev- 
eral yards of native cloth around his body; he was at- 
tended by a crowd of his officers of state. He came on 
board in a very angry mood, from the following causes: — 
Bau, it seems, is at enmity with the king of Revva. Capt. 
Hartwell, commander of the brig Gambia, of Salem, 
came to Rewa, engaged some Rewa men, and a white 
man, who has made himself particularly obnoxious to 
Bau, to fish for him. He then came to Bau, keeping it 
secret from him that he had any thing to do with Rewa, 
and obtained some Vewa men to go to Ba in his service. 
After he went, the white man from Rewa persuaded 
Capt. H. to send the Vewa people home, which was an 
imprudent act, as Vewa is one with Bau, and if the lat- 
ter is insulted, they possess the power to ruin Capt. H.'s 
voyage. Thakombau said that Capt. H. had come here 
and made a fool of him, and that Capt. Wallis would do 
the same; he wished them both to go to Rewa for their 
cargo, for he would have nothing to do with either; they 
were both one concern. Mr. W. told him that he had 
nothing to do with Capt. HartwelPs conduct, nor should 
he have any thing to do with the enemies of Bau. At 
length, after a long conversation and many presents, he 
became pacified; but declared that he would go to Ba, 
kill the Rewa men, and burn the " beech de mer " houses. 
After this declaration he sent a messenger on shore to 
tell his people to prepare for the hostile expedition. 
When the conversation was ended, His Majesty con- 
descended to notice my humble self. He took a seat on 
the sofa, gazed at me, then took my hand and held it up, 
that his people might see how white it was (by contrast, 
I presume). He left the vessel about dark. 

8. Rev. J. Hunt, missionary at Vewa, called on us, 



26 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

and invited us to visit him. A missionary station was 
established in Vevva in 1839, by Rev. Wm. Cross. Mr. 
Hunt came here in 1842, and has labored since that time 
in the gospel, with much success. His manners were so 
easy, that we felt acquainted with him at first; he re- 
mained with us to dinner, and we had a delightful inter- 
view. Thakombau and suite made us another visit to- 
day. 

10. To-day we visited Vewa. There are three mis- 
sionary families residing at the place: — Mr. and Mrs. 
Jaggar, and Mr. and Mrs. Watsford, with their families, 
besides Mr. and Mrs. Hunt, who have one child. Messrs. 
Jaggar and Watsford were stationed at Rewa, but have 
been obliged to leave on account of the war. 

17. Thakombau has gone to Ba with a fleet of thirty 
canoes, well filled with warriors. After the fleet had 
sailed, Samonunu, the principal wife of Thakombau, with 
several of her women, came off to the vessel to visit 
us. When she saw me, she caught both of my hands in 
hers, and exclaimed, " Venaka,venaka" — " good, good." 
She is of quite a light color, as were several that were 
with her; rather fleshy, but has a fine eye and handsome 
features; her hair was nicely dressed, and powdered with 
the ashes of the burnt bread-fruit leaves. She expressed 
a strong desire that I should go to Bau and live; after 
begging all that they could obtain, and stealing my best 
scissors, they departed. Our visitors had not reached 
Bau, when we were honored with a visit from the old 
King Tanoa. I must confess that his personal appear- 
ance is not very imposing; he is small of stature, and 
now rather deaf; his beard, however, was rather impos- 
ing, being about half a yard in length, and very white, 
though I am told that he usually has it dyed black. He 
has the reputation of being one of the greatest cannibals 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 27 

in Feejee. Owing to his age and infirmities, he seldom 
visits the vessels that come to Bau, but as Mr. W. is an 
old and particular friend of His Highness, we are spe- 
cially honored. 

18. Mr. W., intending to visit the Mathuata coast, 
and the season being unfavorable for me to accompany 
him, arrangements have been made for me to remain at 
Vewa for the present, Mr. and Mrs. Hunt having kindly 
consented to receive me into their family. The Zotoff 
sails to-morrow. 

21. The warriors have returned without doing much 
harm. When the hostile fleet first made their appear- 
ance at Ba, the Rewa men fled, and the white man ran 
to the mast-head of the Gambia, and tried to hide him- 
self. The warriors destroyed all the canoes they could 
find, and then went on board the Gambia. Thakombau 
soon espied the white man, and said, 6S Do you think that 
we cannot reach you where you are ? It is a very small 
thing to shoot you if we wish." Capt. H. promised to 
send all the Rewa men home; and Thakombau, that he 
would trouble them no more; and thus ended the affair. 
Vewa is a small island, about three miles in circumfer- 
ence, and one mile from Bau. There is not a level spot 
comprising one acre of land on the island. Between the 
hills, there is here and there a little dale. The island is 
covered with a variety of beautiful trees, shrubs and 
creeping plants. There are two towns, containing about 
300 inhabitants. Each town is governed by a chief; the 
younger chief, however, is in subjection to the elder. 
The principal, or head chief, is named Namosimalua; 
his nephew, the second chief, is our friend Verani. The 
houses are built of thatch. Mr. Hunt has commenced a 
building of stone ; the mission families, however, now 



28 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

occupy native houses, with the added conveniences of 
wooden doors and glass windows. 

22. Attended Divine service in the native chapel. 
About 200 natives were assembled to worship the true 
God. It was truly a pleasant thing to see so many of 
the cannibal race engage with such apparent devotion in 
the religious exercises of the Sabbath. One thing 
amused me much. The chief had provided a man to 
keep the drowsy ones awake, and the children in order. 
The natives were seated on mats, and the anti-sleeper 
was continually threading his way between them, with a 
small stick in his hand, which he never failed to use as 
occasion required. The Sabbath begins with a prayer 
meeting at sunrise; at nine o'clock the native service 
commences; at twelve, there is preaching in English; at 
four, P. M., preaching in native, and at seven, preaching 
in Touguese. During the intervals between the public 
services, the sounds of prayer and praise are heard from 
almost every dwelling. I understand that from the fol- 
lowing causes, may be dated the introduction of the gos- 
pel at Vewa. About two years after the murder of the 
French captain, two French men-of-war came and de- 
stroyed the houses and plantations on Vewa. When the 
vessels first came in sight, the inhabitants suspected who 
they were, but the priest said to the chief, " Do not fear, 
no harm will come to you; the things that you see are 
animals that I have ordered to come here." Whatever 
may have formerly been their confidence in their priest, 
they did not believe this story, and hastened their prepa- 
rations for escaping to the main land, which is quite near. 
After all had been prepared, and the frightened natives 
were crowding on board the canoes, there was the priest, 
as anxious as any one, to flee for his life. " What are 
you here for?" said the chief; " Stay, and entertain the 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 29 

huge animals that you have ordered to come." The 
wise man declined the honor, and departed with the rest. 
After the departure of the vessels, the two chiefs, with 
their people, returned to Vewa, where all was desolation, 
which they had richly deserved. Namosimalua had now 
no confidence in the gods of Feejee, since they could not 
save their temple from heing burnt. About this time, a 
man who had been in the service of Rev. Mr. Cross, told 
one of the Vewa men, that if Namosimalua would become 
a Christian, the French would never seek to harm him. 
The speech was carried to the chief, who immediately 
sent to Mr. Cross to know if it was true. Mr. Cross re- 
plied, that if he became a Christian, he thought that nei- 
ther French nor English would give him any farther 
trouble. As soon as the messenger returned, Namosi- 
malua, and a few of his people, immediately renounced 
heathenism, and a teacher was sent to the place. Verani 
still continues a heathen; and Namosimalua has never 
yet been admitted as a member of the church, Ifrut is 
merely a nominal Christian. 

24. Vatai, the head wife of Namosimalua, with seve- 
ral of her attendants and myself, ascended and descended 
some of the hills of Vewa. Truly, I thought, nature has 
abundantly clothed every thing here. How stupid of 
man not to learn! The bread-fruit tree is very abundant 
on this island; also the eva, which, when in blossom, 
emits a delightful odor. Arrow-root, ginger and cotton, 
grow here in small quantities. 

25. Christmas day. This morning my slumbers were 
broken by a little band of choristers, singing the songs 
of Zion. The missionaries have taught the little tawnies 
this beautiful custom, which is still extant in many parts 
of England. At sunrise, I listened to the sweet voice of 
Mrs. Hunt, as she sung, " Christian, Awake!" In the 



30 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

evening, Mrs. Hunt invited the singers to partake of 
some tea and cake. They prayed and sung, ate their 
cake, drank their tea, and went home. 

27. Thakombau has honored Vewa with a visit. He 
went into the school, and seemed pleased; said "it was 
good to learn to read." He has acquired more influence 
in Feejee, than any other chief. 

Several years ago, a dissatisfaction arose in Bau, 
among some of the chieftains of the place, on account of 
the arbitrary proceedings of Tanoa. They rose in rebel- 
lion, stripped the king of his authority, and would have 
killed him, had he not fled. Thakombau was then a 
mere lad, and the rebels thought him quite too young to 
cause them any trouble. He did not appear to sympa- 
thize at all with his father in his troubles, but mingled 
freely with the rebel party. During this time, however, 
he was forming plans for his father's restoration. He 
gathered privately a party to favor his cause, who se- 
cretly procured materials, and in one night built a fence 
around that part of the island where they resided. He 
then ordered his people to fasten pieces of native cloth 
on the ends of their spears and arrows, and discharge 
them at the thatch of the houses of their enemies. In a 
few moments the dwellings were all in flames, and re- 
duced to ashes. The surprised rebels were not prepared 
for this sudden attack; some were killed, while others 
sought safety in flight. Thakombau immediately sent to 
his father, who was then residing in Rewa. Tanoa 
returned to Bau, and united his efforts with those of his 
son in securing the advantages already gained. Bau is 
near one of the largest islands of the group; — many of 
the rebels fled thither for safety, but the chiefs, whose 
protection they sought, either through treachery or fear, 
betrayed them into the hands of their relentless enemies. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 31 

An indiscriminating slaughter ensued; very few escaped 
the vigilance of Tanoa and his son. The bodies of the 
slaughtered were cooked and eaten. The Rev. Mr. 
Cross visited Bau at this time, and found the king feast- 
ing upon a dead body, and two more were being cooked 
for the next meal. On one occasion, he ordered a chief 
to be brought before him; he then commanded his tongue 
to be cut out, which he devoured raw, talking and joking 
with the mutilated chief at the same time. It is said that 
Thakombau has all the cruelty of his father, and is far 
superior in his warlike abilities. His influence in Feejee 
is now almost unbounded. For the last year he has been 
engaged in a war with Rewa. I think that he may truly 
be called the Napoleon of Feejee. 

29. A few days since, twenty-five Rewa men were 
brought to Bau, where they were placed alive on coals 
of fire, roasted, and then devoured by fiends in human 
shape. The town of Rewa is situated on the large island 
about twenty miles from Bau. It is said that the town is 
large, and contains many inhabitants. Its chiefs are of 
equal rank with the Bau chiefs, being near relatives. 

About seven years ago, a prophecy was delivered in 
Feejee by a blind man, well known to Namosimalua, and 
many others in Vewa. The prophet resided in a distant 
part of the group, which had no political connection with 
Bau, or Rewa, and he knew but little about either place. 
At the time the prophecy was delivered, Bau and Rew r a 
were on the best of terms; but he declared that in a few 
years, there would be war between these two powers. 
At that time the King of Rewa had four brothers. The 
prophet declared " that one would die a natural death, 
another would float away, two would be killed, the most 
diminutive of the whole would be made king, and the 
principal chief of Bau would be shot during a war with 



32 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

Rewa." One of the brothers has died a natural death; 
another has been taken to America, and died; therefore 
the natives are confidently expecting the fulfilment of the 
whole prophecy. 

Respecting the Feejeean prophets and prophecies, Mr. 
Hunt says, " Among many other things which clearly 
show that the Feejeeans have derived their religious 
ideas from the same source as the Jews, one is remarka- 
ble, viz. : the existence of prophets, properly so called, 
as well as priests. Priests are generally prophets, one 
part of their work being to predict the success that will 
attend warlike expeditions, &c. ; but there are others, 
who are more particularly prophets, who foretell distant 
events, which appear very improbable to any but them- 
selves. The name of this class of persons is ' Rairai, 9 
(seer,) from ' Rai, 9 to see. This word has a very sim- 
ilar sound to the ancient name of the prophets, who, we 
are told, ' were called seers at the first. 5 — 1 Sam. 9 : 9. 
The resemblance is to be found in the sense, as well as 
the sound, and is certainly remarkable. The Hebrew 
word for seer is £ roeh, 9 which is the participle of c raah, 9 
which is certainly much like ' rai, 9 and means precisely 
the same. ' Rairai ' is the same word reduplicated, and 
means the same as roeh; both designate a person who 
sees preternatural things, yet not always by means of 
the bodily senses, but in a preternatural way; that is, by 
means of inspiration. Sometimes the Feejeean seers de- 
scribe what they predict, in a way exactly similar to the 
ancient heathen Sybil, expressed in the following lines — 

' Wars, horrid wars I foresee, 
And Tiber, foaming with a deluge of blood.' 

The Feejeean seers profess to see the town whose de- 
struction they predict, in flames; and sometimes declare 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 33 

that they feel the clubs of the successful warriors on their 
heads." 

30. It appears that the occasion of the late visit of 
Thakombau to Vewa, was to tell the people to take all 
the riches they possess to Bau to-day, for a solavu, or 
gift to the people of Somosorao. This people protected 
Tanoa a part of the time during his exile when he fled 
from Bau. All the towns that are subject to Bau, have 
been required to carry their gifts to Tanoa, and he pre- 
sents them to the Somosomo people. The Feejeeans, it 
seems, are not very prompt in the payment of their na- 
tional obligations, any more than some civilized countries 
which could be named. All the male inhabitants, and 
some of the fairer portion, too, have gone to Bau with all 
the property they possess; the town is so quiet, it seems 
like all the boys having "gone to training." 

31. The meeting held at Bau yesterday, was attended 
with quite a romantic affair in high life. There are three 
different tribes who live on the island of Bau, namely, 
the Bau, Lasakau and Soso. About three years since, 
the Lasakau tribe rejected their ruling chief, being in 
favor of another. Nalela fled to Vewa, and has been 
protected by the chiefs of this place. Bau could not in- 
jure the chief without declaring war with Vewa. One of 
the youngest of the wives of the exiled chief, is a woman 
of some rank, a relative of Namosimalua, and an adopted 
daughter. At the conclusion of the meeting, Namosi 
and his party were observed to linger behind; and soon, 
after were accosted by a handsome young man, a brother 
of Thakombau, who took the young lady by the hand;,, 
and walked away with her to his house. The rejected 
chief is very angry at the insult. Revelete, the young 
Bau chief, was here a {e\v days since, and passed the 

3 



34 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

day with Namosi;* a pig was killed, yanggona drank, and 
the chiefs, without doubt, then planned the affair. 

Jan. 1. According to Feejeean custom, Namosi is 
going to offer a present to Nalela, and ask his pardon; 
if the pardon is received, the affair is settled, and the 
parties are friends. The Vewa people are afraid to 
leave their homes during the present state of things. 

3. The Lasakau tribe, who, for three years past, 
have kept Nalela a prisoner on this island, and sought 
every opportunity to kill him if he attempted to leave it, 
now pretend to take his part, and have been near Vewa 
the last two nights, challenging this people to come and 
fight them in their canoes. 

4. Mr. Hunt's house containing but three rooms, and 
one of them being occupied by Mr. Jaggar and family, I 
have had a house built within the mission premises. It 
is constructed of thatch, like the other native buildings, 
but has been made far more comfortable. The interior, 
which consists of one apartment, is lined with mats; the 
floor is boarded, and covered with mats; and it is fur- 
nished with a looking-glass, w T ash-stand, table, chairs 
and writing-desk. There are three glass windows, pret- 
tily ornamented with white fringed curtains; my bed also 
has white curtains. There is no house in Feejee half so 
pretty. Mr. Hunt thinks it must be very warm, being 
lined. I had rather have it so, than to have centipedes 
and other like insects falling from the thatch upon me. 
To-day I have taken possession of the little domicil, but 
shall continue to occupy my seat at Mr. Hunt's table. 

* " Namosi," abbreviation of Namosimalua. 



LIFEINFEEJEE. 35 



CHAPTER II. 

Lasakau Procession — Murder — Massacre at Vewa — Islands of Feejee — 
Storm — Rebellion at Bau. 

Jan. 5. A long procession of the Lasakau tribe, head- 
ed by their young chief, Navinda, has just passed, on 
their way to the house of Nalela. Their bodies were 
painted and ornamented as if for war, or a feast. All 
were armed with clubs, spears and muskets. The Vewa 
people are somewhat troubled, for Nalela has not yet re- 
ceived the peace offering of Namosimalua. It is said 
that it would be quite like Feejeeans, to set to and mas- 
sacre the inhabitants of Vewa. I think this might hap- 
pen, if Nalela had been on good terms with his tribe pre- 
vious to the late affair. I am of the opinion, however, 
that this visit denotes treachery towards Nalela. Na- 
vinde and his people have for three years expressed the 
most inveterate hatred towards Nalela; now, they say 
that they are sorry for him, and will avenge the late in- 
sult that has been offered him by Namosi. 

6. Yesterday, the Lasakau people all assembled in 
the house of Nalela. Navinde told him that they had 
come to make peace with him, and invite him back to 
Bau; that they would then avenge the ill-treatment re- 
ceived from Namosimalua, but if he continued to live 
here, they could do nothing for him. They drank yang- 
gona together, and parted, apparently the best of friends. 
In the afternoon Navinde called to see me, accompanied 
by Vataie, who is his half sister. I asked her if she 
thought her brother was sincere in his professions to 
Nalela. She replied, "It is hard to say; he may be sin- 
cere, and he may only wish to get Nalela back to Bau 



36 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

that he may kill him by and by; for he has long been 
seeking his life." Navinde duly admired my house, be- 
came smitten with a handsome pearl handled pen-knife, 
which he happened to see, begged it, and departed. 

Navinde and a part of his men accompanied the chief 
of Bau in his late expedition to Ba. When they return- 
ed, they saw nine men coming from Bau in a canoe, 
which they immediately attacked, and killed them, just 
for a frolic. 

It is, or has been, the custom of the Feejeeans, when 
canoes go to fight, to kill all the natives they may find; 
but when a war expedition is fitting out, messengers are 
sent to all the towns in the way, to give the inhabitants 
timely notice, that all may keep in their houses. The 
Lasakaus, in this instance, had not killed any one at Ba, 
and were unwilling to return without dead bodies to feast 
upon. They were disappointed, however, for the Bau 
and Vewa chiefs were angry about it, and made them 
burn the bodies. This appears like a dawning of civili- 
zation. A short time since, these chiefs would have 
joined in the massacre and the feasting. 

7. It is now midsummer. There is a good deal of 
rain, and the weather is rather hot; the thermometer is 
at 95° in the shade. Centipedes, flies, musquitoes and 
rats in great abundance. I am obliged to get beneath 
the bed-curtains as soon as I leave the supper table, and 
there, with my lantern, I read till I feel sleepy. 

At the dinner table to-day, Mr. Hunt related some 
anecdotes respecting Verani. The first was as follows : 
" About three months ago, some evil disposed person 
reported that criminal connection was being held between 
the wife of Verani and a young man who had professed 
Christianity. They both declared their innocence. A 
woman who was accused of aiding in the intercourse, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 37 

was murdered, cooked and eaten, and Verani sought the 
young man's life; he fled to the missionaries fur protec- 
tion. Mr. Hunt sought Verani, and asked him if he fully 
believed the man and woman to be guilty. Verani said, 
1 No; he believed the report to be false; but he was dis- 
graced by it, and nothing but the death of the young man 
would satisfy him. 5 For three months the man remained 
safe within the mission premises, and the angry chief 
could get no opportunity to execute his fell purpose. At 
length he thought of the following expedient. He told 
his cousin, the son of Namosimalua, that he would leave 
the island for a short time, and when he returned, he 
should expect to find the heart of the young man ready 
to eat. When he had been gone a few days, Masapai, 
the cousin, said to the man, c You have been a prisoner 
a long time; your enemy is now away; come, let us go 
and gather nuts, and roast them. 5 The man asked Mr. 
Hunt what he should do, saying that Masapai and him- 
self had always been true friends. Mr. Hunt said, ( You 
had better stay; the Feejeeans are treacherous.' But the 
young man greatly desired to wander among his native 
wilds again — to pluck the ripe fruit from the trees, and 
again enjoy the sweet breath of heaven. They walked 
off, apparently in high glee, the victim wholly uncon- 
scious that his doom was so near. About two hours after 
they left the mission house, a native came running to 
Mr. Hunt, exclaiming, 'They've clubbed him! they've 
clubbed him!' Mr. Hunt asked where; for he quickly 
surmised who was clubbed, and hastened to the spot. 
The man yet breathed, although his skull was cleft near- 
ly in twain. He was carried to the mission house, where 
he soon breathed his last. Masapai sent for the dead 
body, as they wished to feast upon it; this, of course, 
was refused. He then sent word that he must have the 



38 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

heart. Mr. Hunt said, ' Tell Masapai that he made it 
easy to kill the man, but it would be difficult to get his 
heart.' The man was interred, and a watch kept over 
his grave. The murder was accomplished in the follow- 
ing manner : The young men rambled about in the 
woods, talked of past scenes (for they had been friends 
from early childhood), and related stories, as is their 
custom. After spending some time in this manner, and 
having gathered a quantity of nuts, Masapai said, ' Let 
us now make a fire and roast them; you strike the fire, 
while I gather the wood.' The man was stooping down, 
engaged in rubbing sticks to procure fire, when a signal 
was given by the treacherous Masapai; a man sprung 
from the thicket, struck his victim on the head, and the 
devoted one knew no more." To see Verani, one could 
scarcely believe him capable of such wickedness, for 
there is nothing savage in his appearance. He told Mr. 
Wallis, on our first arrival, that he was a Christian a 
little, and by and by he intended to be a great and a 
good one. When we sat at table, he said, iC Why do 
you not ask a blessing? you are like the pigs to eat, and 
not ask God to bless your food." 

8. The Feejeeans appear to delight in war, yet they 
are not inspired with manly force; they have but little 
true courage. They are not an impulsive race; but 
when they conquer, it is usually done by deliberate 
treachery. The following account of a massacre which 
was committed at this place about three years ago, as 
found in the journal of Mr. Cross, missionary to these 
islands, illustrates this trait of their character. 

" In the year 1840, a war commenced between Somo- 
somo and a town on the same island called Vuna. The 
Bau people took the part of Vuna, which eventually 
caused a war between Somosomo and Bau. The elder 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 39 

brother, or rather cousin, of Thakombau, disgraced him- 
self, fled to Somosomo, and assisted the king of that place 
against Bau. By means of this chief, and a son of the 
principal officer of Tanoa, who had also espoused the 
cause of the King of Somosomo, a considerable party of 
the allies of Bau joined Somosomo. Among these, the 
principal was a powerful town called Namena. Private 
messengers were sent to Vewa from this place to engage 
Verani and Namosimaiua on their side. Verani received 
the messengers with kindness, and promised them his 
support, stating that all the people of Vewa were of the 
same mind. He immediately communicated what he had 
done to Thakombau, and assured him that by this means 
he should place the Namena people at his entire disposal. 
Thakombau had attempted in vain to subdue the inhabi- 
tants of Namena, and was, of course, exceedingly glad 
that Verani had undertaken to effect the object in ano- 
ther way. He sent Verani a large present, promised 
him one of his daughters for a wife, and said, f My house 
and its riches are yours; only effect the destruction of 
the people of Namena.' 

Verani, thus encouraged, began to think of the means 
by which his object should be accomplished. In order 
to secure the cooperation of Namosimaiua, he circulated 
a report that the Bau chiefs were exceedingly angry with 
the Vewa people, and had determined utterly to destroy 
them. This report failed in producing the desired effect. 

Shortly after, an event occurred which Verani had 
skill enough to press into his service. The principal 
wife of Namosimaiua had displeased him, and in his rage 
he had beaten her most unmercifully. Being a niece of 
Tanoa's, she ran away to her friends (a common practice 
by which the ladies of Feejee revenge themselves on 
their husbands), and declared that she would never re- 



40 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

turn. After much persuasion, however, she was induced 
to go back; but she had only been in Vewa a few days, 
when a report was brought to Namosimalua that was cal- 
culated more than any thing to make him the enemy of 
Bau. The report was, that a young chief of Ban had 
committed adultery with the Queen of Vewa during her 
absence from her husband. Verani on hearing this, ap- 
peared much enraged, and urged the propriety of making 
immediate preparations for war, in order that they might 
be revenged on Bau for the insult; and proposed that 
they should at once decide in favor of Namena and So- 
rnosomo. Namosimalua said that he would not join 
Somosomo against Bau, wishing to make war upon that 
tribe only which had insulted him. His nephew, how- 
ever, prevailed upon him to fall in with his proposition, 
and the preparations for war commenced. 

Mr. Cross now interposed, and reasoned with the 
chiefs and people on the impropriety of involving many 
tribes in war on account of an injury they had suffered 
from one tribe only; and assured the Christian party, 
that it would be much more consistent with their charac- 
ter and profession 'to suffer wrong,' rather than avenge 
themselves in this manner. Afterward several feared to 
proceed, and the speech of the missionary bade fair to 
keep the country in peace. 

Verani, however, was indefatigable. He caused re- 
ports to be taken to Namosimalua, of plots that had 
been discovered against his life; and declared that the 
Bau people had actually collected a number of yams to 
be offered to their gods, but had neglected, as was usual, 
to collect pigs to be presented with them, as they intend- 
ed the bodies of the Vewa people to serve instead of that 
animal. 

Namosimalua could hesitate no longer ; and as the 



LIFE IX FEEJEE. 41 

war appeared to be strictly defensive, the Christians 
joined them heartily in fortifying the town. 

Verani now sent to the Namena people to request their 
aid in defending Vewa, and twelve canoes, with about 
one hundred and forty men, were sent from a place 
called Mathoe. This exactly met the wishes of the Bau 
chiefs. One hundred and forty men could not be formi- 
dable to them, and yet they were sufficient to gratify 
their revenge and intimidate their enemies. The poor 
Mathoe people were in the net, and Verani and Thakom- 
bau formed the plan of securing them as quickly as pos- 
sible. It was arranged that Thakombau should attack 
Vewa with a large force, which was to be divided into 
three companies. The strongest, with Thakombau at 
its head, was to land at a part of the island most distant 
from the town, and the others to be posted so as to cut 
off those who might attempt to escape. Verani met the 
party that was to attack the town, and pretended to op- 
pose their landing. After a few muskets had been fired 
on both sides, Verani explained his whole design to his 
men, many of whom had known nothing of it till that 
moment. Thakombau did the same to his warriors, 
warning them not to kill any Vewa men, as they were 
their friends, nor to touch any thing belonging to the 
missionary, but to assist Verani to kill the Mathoe war- 
riors. 

During the firing, some of the Bau people pretended 
to be shot, and the news was immediately taken to the 
town that an enemy had fallen; the Mathoe people, who 
were to die in a few moments, clapped their hands and 
rattled their spears for joy. The drum was beating, to 
indicate success on the Vewa side, and all was joy in 
the town, when Verani and his party rushed in with the 
Bau people close after them, and fell on their surprised 



42 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

victims like so many wolves. In the space of a few min- 
utes about one hundred of them were massacred. A few 
were shot, others were cut to pieces with hatchets, others 
had their brains dashed out with the fearful clubs of ' these 
horrible dogs of war.' Many of them fell within a few 
paces of the mission house, and some close by the door. 

Notwithstanding they were so hotly pursued, the Chris- 
tian party succeeded in saving several of them, by hiding 
them in their houses, and sending them home in the 
night. The rest were taken to Bau, cooked and eaten. 

Mr. Cross with his family and the native teachers had 
shut themselves up in the middle room of the mission 
house, and piled chests, cases, &c, one upon another, 
as a barricade." 

The above is a fair specimen of Feejeean warfare. 

9. As I shall probably have occasion to allude, dur- 
ing the progress of my journal, to the different islands of 
this group, I will give some account of them as furnished 
by the kindness of Mr. Hunt. 

The Feejee Islands were discovered by Tasman, in 
the year 1643. The group lies between 16° and 21° 
south latitude, and between 177° east longitude and 178° 
west longitude, occupying an area of about 40,000 square 
miles. The group is divided into three parts; namely, 
the large, the windward, and the leeward islands. The 
large islands are two in number. One is called Ve- 
telavu, the other Vanualavu. These two stretch, north- 
east and south-west, nearly through the whole breadth 
of the group. They are each about three hundred miles 
in circumference, and about thirty miles distant from 
each other. The south-western island, Vetelavu, is 
more populous, containing about one hundred thousand 
inhabitants. The windward islands lay east of the larger 
group, and to the leeward of the west. There are, prob- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 43 

ably, one hundred inhabited islands, besides the two 
large ones, and many which are uninhabited. They are 
of various dimensions, from two to sixty miles in circum- 
ference. The windward islands are not more in number 
than the leeward; but, when taken as a whole, are 
much larger, and possess a greater population. Kan- 
davu is the principal island towards the south. It is a 
fine, well-populated island, and admirably situated for 
shipping. Near it are the following smaller islands: — 
Dravuni, Yankuvir, Bulia and Ono. These form an in- 
significant group to themselves, and are the most south- 
erly of all the leeward islands. Bengga, Vatulele and 
Yanutha are near Vetelavu. Malolo is the principal of 
the most westerly group, which form a small cluster, 
called Natuyasawa, or Sau Islands. Mathuata, Jekom- 
bia, and others, are near Vanualavu. The names of the 
principal windward islands are as follows: — those con- 
nected with Lakemba are strictly the windward islands, 
as Vatoa, or Turtle Island, Ono, Ongaa, Vulange, Na- 
muka, Oneata, Mothe, Kambara, Vanuavatu, Nayau, 
and some smaller ones, which constitute the kingdom of 
Tuinayau, king of Lakemba. Thethea, Tuvutha, Mu- 
nea and Vanuabalavu, form a kind of separate kingdom. 
The chiefs of the Thakandrove and Lakemba have, 
however, considerable influence over them. Taveune, 
often called Somosomo, from the name of the principal 
town, is the residence of the chiefs of Thakandrove, 
Lauthala, Nggamea, Naitaube, and Rambe, are near 
Vanualavu, and, with a number of towns on that island, 
form the kingdom of Thakandrove. Koro, Nairai, Ngau, 
Bateke, Wakaya, Makouyai, Naingane, Ovalau, Yanu- 
tha, Motureke and Vewa, are subject toBau. It is sup- 
posed that there are about three hundred thousand in- 
habitants in this group; fifteen thousand are subject to 



44 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

Bau, and the other great chiefs possess perhaps from 
five to ten thousand each. Several of these, however, 
are tributary to Bau. There are many independent 
tribes in the interior of the large islands, of which but 
little is known. 

12. I find my residence in Feejee very pleasant. 
My little house is cool and comfortable, and is very much 
admired. 

The mission families are social, and lovely in their de- 
portment. Our meals are peculiarly pleasant. The 
conversation is lively and intelligent; indeed, it is almost 
the only time that the gentlemen allow themselves any 
relaxation from their arduous labors. This is the time 
when I inquire all about Feejee and Feejeeans, and Mr. 
Hunt (who always delights to impart information,) never 
seems weary of answering my inquiries; nor does he 
merely answer quickly, and dismiss the subject, (as the 
manner of some is,) but appears interested to have me 
fully understand the subject of my inquiries. It is a 
time, too, when we do not feel as though every word 
that we stopped to speak cost a dollar, although I have 
listened to some that are worth that money. 

13. A storm commenced yesterday and still con- 
tinues. The thatch which covers the top of the mission 
house, having shown some disposition to leave its pres- 
ent location, has been securely lashed with cinnet and 
boards. 

The tropical storms are sometimes very severe, pros- 
trating every thing in their course. A fine orange tree 
which stood in the yard, loaded with unripe fruit, now 
lies prostrate. The occupants of all canoes which are 
driven ashore, or wrecked among these islands, are in- 
variably killed and devoured. 

There is a man now at Vewa who had a narrow es- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 45 

cape a short time since. He is an Englishman, and 
was out in his boat with a native woman and their child. 
A storm drove them near the island of Geer; the natives 
swam off to them and killed their child; but when the 
man told them that he could mend their muskets, they 
agreed to spare his life and that of the woman till their 
work should be done. Every day the natives would tell 
them that on the next day they were to be eaten. Capt. 
Osborne was fishing at Mathuata at the time, and hear- 
ing of their situation, obtained their release. 

A few months ago another Englishman, of the name of 
Wilson, was murdered at one of the Sau Islands. His 
murder was occasioned by the following circumstances. 

A young American went to live at a place called Ra- 
batu, near Ragerage. Here he was treated with kind- 
ness by the natives, and the chiefs, it is said, made quite 
a pet of him. Being, however, of a passionate temper, 
he became angry one day with the chief, and threw a 
hot yam at him. This was a great insult, and the na- 
tives wished to kill and eat him at once; this the insulted 
chief would not permit, preferring, no doubt, some other 
way of satisfying his vengeance, for vengeance he would 
have had at some time, if it had been in his power. A 
young chief of the place took pity upon the offending and 
thoughtless man, removed him to another town, and 
would not leave him lest harm should come to him. 

At length a boat came to the place, commanded by the 
white man of Rewa, who was alluded to in Capt. Hart- 
well's case. This fiend in human shape took the Amer- 
ican on board his boat, and invited the kind chief to go 
on board that he might receive a reward for his protec- 
tion of the American. The chief complied with his re- 
quest, but was no sooner on board than he was made a 



46 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

prisoner, and threatened with death unless every thing 
belonging to the American was restored. 

This was soon done. He was then told to order his 
people to bring to the boat, mats, pigs and several other 
articles. The command was obeyed, but this was not 
enough; and he was told that they must have a certain 
girl, who was betrothed to him, which was more than all. 
He had consented to be despoiled of what little property 
he owned, but how could he part with this girl, whom he 
had loved from childhood! She was as " the face of the 
sun" to him. He hesitated at this demand; but the 
fiend with whom he had to deal, said, " If you hesitate, 
I will kill you, and then it will be easy to get the girl " 
He sent word to his loved one that he was to be killed, 
and he wished her to come and be strangled with him. 
Pleased with this token of his love, she hastened to him 
that they might die and go to " bulu " together, where 
she would be his only wife. She came; the white fiend 
took her on board, liberated her lover and set sail, ex- 
ulting in his villany. But know, oh man, that there is a 
day of reckoning at hand! 

The young chief returned to his town, vowing ven- 
geance on the first white man that came in his way. He 
had saved the life of one, and his heart had known com- 
passion, but it should know it no more; he had been 
despoiled of his little property, and the object of his 
affections had been torn from him; nothing was now left 
him but revenge. 

A few months after this affair, the injured chief was at 
one of the Sau Islands with some of his people. Wilson, 
with his native woman, her sister, and their child, were 
in the boat. The natives swam off to the boat, clubbed 
Wilson and the woman, while the sister, a girl of ten 
years of age, took the child, a boy of two years of age, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 47 

on her back and swam to the shore. The body of Wil- 
son and his woman were taken ashore, where they were 
cooked and eaten; the lives of the children were spared 
that they might be fattened before they should be killed. 
Some part of the cooked bodies were offered them to eat. 

Mr. Hunt heard of the affair soon after it was perpe- 
trated, and lost no time in procuring their release. They 
have been brought here, and now live in his family. 

14. The storm still continues violent, but my little 
house stands it bravely. I am somewhat lonely, how- 
ever, as I cannot go to the mission house, and am obli- 
ged to take my meals alone, or rather with company I 
do not fancy. The flies and musquitoes are very social, 
and in the evening the mice are not at all bashful. I 
wish that the musquitoes were homoeopathists, for then 
they would not be drawing blood from me so freely. 

16. The storm has abated, and I am again at liberty. 
A tribe of natives are here from the main land, building 
a small house within the mission fence; the natives are 
very noisy. My house and myself attract a great deal 
of notice; the last, quite a new thing to me. If you 
wish to be noticed, you must come to Feejee, where 
many pretty things will be said of you, such as, " She 
is like the face of the sun," — ei She is the root of all that 
is good," and even, £f She is a god." It is truly sur- 
prising that one could reside in a civilized land for the 
space of forty years, among intelligent people, too, and 
yet such beauty and so many excellencies never be 
discovered. 

The chief of this tribe is called Ko Mai Narnara. He 
is an exceedingly smooth-spoken man, and one would 
think that he would not harm even a fly; yet only a few 
weeks since 3 he killed one of his women and sent her to 



48 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Bau to be eaten. She had offended him by running 
away to Bau several times. 

This morning, at day light, Masapai was at my door 
to beg paint, as he was going to Bau to attend a feast. 
I gave him some to prevent any more teazing, but I 
never like to see the treacherous fellow. 

18. Mrs. Jaggar, Mrs. Watsford, Vatai, with several 
of her attendants and myself, took a long and pleasant 
w r alk to-day over the hills ofVewa. A man (a stranger,) 
joined our company. He walked before us, warning us 
of all the difficult places in our way, would climb trees, 
or descend ravines to gather specimens of plants, and 
w-as as attentive as though it had always been his busi- 
ness to wait upon the ladies. I believe the Feejeeans, 
when not excited, are very kind. 

On our return I found a bunch of nice bananas on the 
steps of my door, — a present from Verani. The other 
day he sent me a large bunch of bread-fruit. I feel a 
deep interest in this very wicked man. While we w T ere 
on board the vessel, he would keep the Feejeeans out of 
the cabin as much as possible, saying they were not 
suitable company for me. I think he is about the only 
one in Vewa who has not been to see my house, or to 
beg something. 

Mr. Hunt thinks that he would renounce heathenism 
were it not for his intimacy with Thakombau. With his 
talents, he would be very useful in the cause of Chris- 
tianity. 

19. Vatai with her attendants, and myself with the 
lad, Whippy, visited Verani's town this afternoon. It is 
not so large or so pleasant as that of Namosimalua. 
The Lasakau chief occupies the largest house in it. As 
we passed it, there appeared to be many people inside; 
we were invited to enter, but declined. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 49 

David showed me the precipice where so many of 
the Natnena people were dashed during the massacre; 
another spot where the woman was killed, who, it was 
said, favored the intimacy between the wife of Verani 
and the young man who was murdered by Masapai ; 
another spot where her body was cooked, and also the 
place where they partook of the horrible feast. Indeed, 
there seemed scarcely a place which had not its tale. 

20. Attended the native service in the morning as 
usual. Six natives have to-day lotued (renounced hea- 
thenism). The principal wife of Verani and two of his 
people were among the number. 

21. Namosimalua, who has been living in a very 
common house, has now commenced building a large 
one on one of the highest hills of Vewa, which faces the 
sea. He called to see me to-day, and observing that I 
was making a fancy bed-quilt, he wished me to make 
him a flag like it, that he might raise it on a staff near 
his new house, so that when vessels came in sight, it 
might be said, " Namosimalua lives there." 

Namosimalua is a tall, powerful-looking chief. He is 
well known throughout Feejee, and feared in many parts 
of the group. It was surprising to many that his life 
was spared when Tanoa was restored; but all the cir- 
cumstances of the case were not known at the time. 

When Tanoa fled from Bau, he stopped at an island 
called Nairai, about sixty miles from Bau. The rebel 
party offered Namosimalua a young woman of high 
rank (a niece of Tanoa), and six whale's teeth, to fol- 
low and kill the king. Namosimalua accepted the pres- 
ent, and started to overtake the exile. He knew the 
town where Tanoa was residing; but he refused to land 
there and take him by surprise, saying that his people 
were weary, and must have rest and food before they 
4 



50 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

proceeded farther. During the night a messenger was 
privately despatched to inform Tanoa of all that had 
taken place, and urging him to escape to some place of 
safety. The king, on hearing this, immediately put to 
sea with his followers; hut the wind proving contrary, 
he did not get far from land before daylight. 

Namosimalua fearing that the king might not have be- 
lieved his messengers, still determined to be cautious. 
In the morning he ordered his people to follow, instead 
of preceding him, as is their usual custom, into the 
town. When they arrived, they saw Tanoa's canoe out 
at sea. Namosi said, " Never mind, he is not going 
far; he will soon return to some other town on the 
island, and we can then accomplish our purpose." He 
amused his people in this manner till he saw the king 
make sail for Somosomo, and then he said, " Let us re- 
turn to Bau, it will be useless to follow him to Somosomo 
with our present force." 

The rebel chiefs never suspected his duplicity, al- 
though they were not pleased with the result of his 
voyage. Namosimalua seldom failed in what he en- 
gaged to do, and no doubt that was the reason he was 
employed to kill the king. They confidently expected 
him to return with their object accomplished. He had 
ever appeared to be one with the rebels in purpose, and 
some said that he was the originator of the rebellion. 

But Namosi had an " eye to the windward." He knew 
that all the inhabitants of Bau were not engaged in the 
rebellion; the Lasakau tribe still adhered to Tanoa. He 
would gain nothing by the death of the king, as his party 
might yet gain the ascendancy. He had also received 
his reward, and would get nothing more if he murdered 
the king; but by sparing his life he would gain the favor 
of both parties. 



LIFE IN fEEJEE. 51 

To satisfy the rebel party, he proposed that a large 
fleet should be sent to Somosomo, and demand the king 
from the chiefs of that place. The fleet was sent; but 
the chiefs and people insulted them, refused to give up 
Tanoa, and they returned to Bau leaving the king in 
safety. 

After the restoration of Tanoa, a great meeting was 
held in Bau for the consolidation of peace. Vatai was 
the young woman that was presented to Namosimalua, 
with the whale's teeth; her father was a brother of 
Tanoa, and was the one who was brought before him 
and had his tongue cut out and devoured, as before re- 
lated. He was one of the first who fell before the ven- 
geance of the angry king. Tanoa had another brother 
named Tuiveikoso; he had been compelled by the reb- 
els to be crowned king. He was a man of small abili- 
ties, wholly incapable of ruling, or of exerting any influ- 
ence, either good or bad. Tuiveikoso thus addressed 
his brother at the meeting. " I only am one with you. 
You and I are two. I knew not the design of your ene- 
mies. They brought your title to me; but I desired it 
not, nor did I take any part against you; therefore, be 
gracious to me, that I may live." Tanoa rose and said, 
" Fear not; what should I do to you? you are not as I 
am, strong, and able to go to other lands. I am as a 
god, — I cannot be killed; but you can do nothing; for 
you are like a large pig, which has grown too fat to walk 
about; you can only sit, and sleep, and wake, and take 
your food" (which was literally the case). They then 
both laughed; Tanoa kissed his brother and sat down. 
Namosimalua, who was one of this company, then went 
out, and the inquiry arose as to who originated the re- 
bellion. Tanoa said, " The man who caused it has re- 



52 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

tired; no doubt he has gone to contrive something else 
that is evil; to-morrow we will have him tried." 

The next day the meeting again assembled, and Namo- 
simalua was brought before them and charged with being 
the originator of the late rebellion: this he denied. He 
was then charged with having engaged to kill Tanoa, 
which he acknowledged, and stated that he received 
from the rebels a niece of Tanoa for a wife, and six 
whale's teeth, as an inducement to accomplish this ob- 
ject. Tanoa then said, " You engaged to kill me for six 
whale's teeth and a woman." He replied, " Yes, sir." 
Tanoa said, " That is good, and I like you for speaking 
the truth. You shall not die, but live, though you have 
done me much evil." 

The king of Soinosomo, who was present, then ad- 
dressed Namosi, charging him with all the late troubles, 
and said, " If the king will allow us, we will kill you at 
once." A tumult ensued, which was stopped by the king 
of Rewa, who addressed the people in a conciliatory 
speech, and the meeting broke up. 

Tanoa, no doubt, understood the motives which had 
actuated Namosi, in not complying with the wishes of 
the rebel party to kill him, and had no confidence in 
him; still, as he had spared him, it seemed to suit his 
present purpose to let him live. 

Namosimalua is proud of Vatai, and she holds the 
highest rank of the ten wives that he possesses; but he 
is jealous and tyrannical, besides being some forty years 
her senior. She has never loved him, and has several 
times run away to Bau. Of late, however, she appears 
to endure with more patience. She is a handsome wo- 
man, of good natural abilities, has learned to read and 
write, and was one of the first on the island who re- 
nounced heathenism. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 53 

It is of consequence to a Feejeean to possess a wo- 
man of high rank, as the children rank from the mo- 
ther. Vatai's mother, after her husband was killed, 
was taken by the chief of Lasakau to wife ; conse- 
quently, Vatai is nearly connected with that tribe, as has 
been related. Navinde, the present chief, is her brother 
by the same mother ; therefore Vatai's children are 
"vasus " to Bau and to Lasakau. They can go to these 
places at any time, and take whatever they wish, and 
even if there should be war between Vewa and Bau, no 
person would dare to molest them. 

Chief women are never to be obtained by poor men. 
If a poor man takes a wife from another town or tribe, 
her children are "vasus" to her family only; but the 
children of a chief woman are cc vasus " to all of her 
tribe. The queen of Bau is the daughter of the king of 
Somosomo; consequently her child is a " vasu" not 
only to the town of Somosomo, but to all the towns and 
tribes who are subject to its king. 



CHAPTER III. 

Gods of Feejee — The faithfulness of a Feejeean — Temples of Feejee — 
Verani renounces Heathenism — Murder of a Lasakau Chief— Strang- 
ling of Women. 

Jan. 23. The Bau people have a set day, which 
comes about once in two weeks, to go to Rewa to fight. 
Each town that is subject to Bau takes its turn in lead- 
ing the battle. The last week it was the turn of the 
Namara people to lead; three of them were shot, and 
the rest fled. The Spartan dame would never have own- 
ed these for her sons! 



54 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

24. Namosimalua has had a feast prepared to-day 
for the people who are building his house. There were 
about two hundred to partake of it. Bread-fruit, fish, 
and native puddings, had been prepared in great abun- 
dance. About noon the old men commenced arranging 
the food. They would take a roast pig (of which they 
had several very large ones roasted whole), and put in 
one place, and then change it to another; the same of the 
rest of the food, and then they would appear at a loss to 
know where to place it to the best advantage. 1 really 
felt a strong desire to go and take the management of 
the affair. Many times the managers would clap their 
hands slowly, and thank the chief (who was seated on 
the ground under the mission fence), for his provisions. 
In this ceremony Namosi joined in thanking himself. 
About four o'clock all was prepared, thanks were again 
offered, and the multitude, consisting only of the Ma- 
tais (carpenters,) partook of the feast, and took what 
was left, as is their custom on such occasions. 

25. Navinde has again visited Vewa. Nalela came 
to Mr. Hunt's with him, and they drank yanggona to- 
gether. Mr. Hunt thinks the reconciliation is sincere. 
They chatted a long time, apparently in the greatest 
harmony, and then visited me. They thought I was very 
extravagant to have my house lined with mats. Nalela 
is a wicked-looking man, about forty-five years of age. 

28. Navinde has again visited Nalela. He seems to 
take much pains to convince him that he is sincere in his 
wish that the reconciliation between them should be per- 
fect. Navinde calls me his friend, and brought me four 
orange cowrie shells, as a present. Nalela and Namosi 
do not speak, and when they go out, are armed with a 
club. This is the custom in Feejee, but in Vewa the 
Christian party have laid aside their arms. Nalela has 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 55 

not yet ventured to visit Bau. The girl that Revelete took, 
was not his principal wife, but one of his solangas. The 
household of the chiefs is composed of three classes of 
women: — First, the Marama lavu, which is their highest 
title; second, a solanga, which answers to our word for 
concubine; and lastly the kaises, which means a poor 
person; these are the servants. Nalela's household is 
composed often females. The Marama lavu is a sister 
ofVerani. Nalela's mother was a sister of Namosima- 
lua, consequently, he is a vasu to Vewa, and can appro- 
priate whatever he chooses to himself. 

Feb. 1. Mr. Hunt has been sent for to visit Bau, and 
prescribe some medicine for the stolen Miss of Revelete. 
She has been sick for several days. Vatai says that 
an offering has been made to the gods, to know why she 
is sick. The priest had a shaking fit, and then said that 
the god was angry because Revelete had taken her to 
the house intended for the king of Rewa's daughter, to 
whom he is betrothed. The offering was a large canoe. 
Mr. Hunt has furnished me with the following account 
of the gods of Feejee. 

" Their gods, though numerous, may be arranged 
under two classes. First, those who were gods in their 
origin, which are called ' na kalou vii;' and, secondly, 
those which are acknowledged to be the spirits of de- 
parted chiefs, or other persons. Some of their gods had 
a disgusting origin, some as ridiculous as any of the gods 
of the ancient heathen. 

Many of the natives believe in the existence of a 
deity called 'Ove,' who is considered the maker of all 
men, and is supposed to reside in the heavens; some say 
in the moon. He is not worshipped, to my knowledge, 
by any of the Feejeeans. Though he is the supposed 
creator of all men, yet different parts of the group as- 



56 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

cribe their origin to other gods. A certain female deity 
is said to have created the Vevva people; and yet if a 
child is born malformed, it is attributed to an oversight 
of Ove. The god most generally known, next to Ove, 
is Dengei. He resides in a cave near Ragerage, on the 
northern coast of Vetelavu. He is supposed to be en- 
shrined in a serpent, on which account the Christian na- 
tives say he is the devil. All the gods have shrines, 
when they are supposed to visit this world, — some a fish, 
others vegetables, others birds, and some even men. It 
is unlawful to eat the shrine of their gods: so that some 
of the natives dare not partake of certain fish, birds, veg- 
etables, &c; and a few, on this account, abstain even 
from feeding on human flesh. They have no idols, prop- 
erly so called, though these shrines may be considered 
as such ; and, like all other idolators, the ignorant 
make scarcely any distinction between the shrine and the 
god; so that we frequently hear them say of the former, 
6 That is my god.' 

The principal residence of the gods, and of all sepa- 
rate spirits, is called ' bulu.' Of this place there are 
various accounts. Some suppose it to be a place of rest 
and quiet; others think it is much the same as the pres- 
ent world. 

As to the nature of their gods, they consider them 
very much like themselves, only more expert in evil. 
All kinds of human passions and vices are attributed 
to them. If a handsome woman dies, they say some 
god has fallen in love with her, and taken her for his 
wife. As they consider their gods are possessed of like 
passions with themselves, they employ the same means 
to frighten or appease them as succeed among them- 
selves. In times of affliction, or any other calamity, 
they sometimes challenge them to light, and demand an 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 51 

explanation of their conduct in thus afflicting them. If 
the gods are supposed to be angry, they present an 
offering similar to those presented to an angry chief. 
The gift has the same name, and is presented in the 
same way. 

The number of their deities is prodigious. Every 
tribe has its god, while some are acknowledged by all. 
They profess to multiply them at pleasure, as the de- 
parted spirits of their friends are all eligible to the same 
office; the only difficulty is in finding some person who 
has impudence and hypocrisy enough to declare that the 
spirit of a certain person has visited him in the character 
of a god, and selected him for his priest. 

The priest is the connecting link between the people 
and their gods. He is the living interpreter of their 
will, and receives, in their names, the offerings of the 
people. 

These offerings are of two kinds; — the sais, or atone- 
ment for sin, and the mandrale, or thank-offering; both 
are often called mandrale, which is a general name for 
religious offerings. 

The power of their gods is confined to the present life, 
with the following exception: — When a person dies, he is 
furnished with a club, or other instrument of war, that he 
may contend successfully with a deity called ravuyalo, 
c soul-killer, 5 who is posted some where in the passage be- 
tween this world and { bulu,' for the purpose of clubbing 
the souls of the dead. If they escape this evil, they be- 
come the companions of the divinities in ' bulu.' All their 
offerings refer to the present life. They propitiate their 
gods for favorable winds, fruitful seasons, success in 
war, deliverance from sickness, &c., &c; but their re- 
ligious ideas neither extend to the soul, nor to another- 
world. They prepare for death just as for a feast, and 



58 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

the wives of chiefs are strangled under the consideration 
that they will be as necessary and useful in the next 
world as in the present. 

2. Mr. Hunt found the Miss of Revelete convalescent. 
He observed that the Turaga-lavus of Bau were mostly 
engaged in the harmless amusement of flying kites. A 
much better employment than eating men! 

Another storm has commenced more violent than the 
last. I have been advised to have every thing as snug 
and secure as possible, as all may be unsheltered before 
morning. 

5. The storm is now abating. It has exceeded in 
violence any that I have before witnessed. The last two 
nights have been almost sleepless ones, as I was con- 
stantly expecting my house would be blown away. Not 
many buildings, however, have blown down, as they are 
somewhat sheltered by the surrounding hills. The trees 
look as though they had been seared by fire. 

6. This morning a Tonga man came to my door, 
and said, " Good morning, ma'am; you sewing, sir?" 
"Where did you learn your English?" said I. "Oh, 
me live with one mission in Tonga; I learn English, I 
wash, my wife, he iron; suppose you want wash, me 
wash." Mr. Jaggar has a Rotumah servant who amuses 
us much. To-day he asked for some peter-salt, to put 
into the pork-barrel. He cannot think that he speaks 
respectfully unless he says " sir," when addressing a 
lady. Mrs. Hunt told him one day that he should say 
" ma'am," to a lady, and " sir," to a gentleman. Now, 
he always says, "yes ma'am, sir — no ma'am, sir." 

7. I believe that human nature is the same the world 
over. To-day some Bau ladies were praising my house, 
and thinking probably to say something pleasing to me, 
they pointed to Namosimalua's new house, and said, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 59 

" Vatai's house is a bad one; this is a good one." I 
replied, " They are both good. My house is very small, 
and is only for one person to live in; Vatai's is large, 
and many people can live there." But they still said, 
"No, no, it is not a good house." The civilized lady 
continued, " Have you seen Mrs. Smith's new house?" 

"Yes." 

" How do you like her furniture?" 

" Some of it is in good taste." 

f : c I think there is no taste displayed there. What hor- 
rid colors her curtains and carpets are!" 

7. To-day I was told that a canoe had arrived from 
Mathuata. As I had reason to suppose they had brought 
letters from my husband, I waited rather impatiently 
several hours, and as they were not forthcoming, I took 
the lad, David, with me, and went to Verani's town in 
quest of them. I found a box had been sent to me by 
my husband, but 1 could not get possession of it. It had 
been committed to the care of a chief named Ndury, who 
was to deliver it to Verani for me. Verani was in Bau, 
and Ndury had gone to see him there, committing the 
box in the meantime to the care of one of his men, who 
was strictly charged not to lose sight of it till his return. 
The man knew that it belonged to me, yet he would not 
allow me to open or take it, and appeared exceedingly 
alarmed lest I should remove it. David said that it might 
cost the man his head if I should take it away. I re- 
turned without my letters, provoked at their detention, 
yet admiring the faithfulness of the Feejeean. 

It was not long after I returned, before Verani, Ndury, 
and the faithful man came, bearing the box, which really 
appeared of as much importance as the mysterious box 
which contained the crown of Scotland, in the days of 
our valiant namesake. 



60 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

8. We have learned that a chief with his tribe, who 
reside at Ovalau, have renounced heathenism, and wish 
to be instructed in the Christian religion. 

The brig Columbine, Capt. Stratton, has arrived, and 
he has his lady with him. 

The following item of news is in circulation : — Some 
little time since, the Rewa people destroyed a town that 
belonged to Bau. Thakombau has been collecting a 
force under the pretence of going to rebuild it. He 
commanded the warriors of Namata to go and assist. It 
is said that his object is to get the Namata people in his 
power, to destroy them. They heard of the plot, and 
refused to go. 

9. The conversation at table to-day, turned upon 
America. One remarked that " if America had to fight 
now for her liberties, she would not gain her object." 
'•'Why?" I asked. " There are several reasons," he 
replied; " one is, if we may judge by their political pa- 
pers, that there is not unity enough among them." I 
found that he had been reading some of the productions 
of the "glorious liberty of our press," newspaper slang, 
and papers that are filled with the lowest abuse of their 
opponents. I will never again endure this annoyance 
from the dissemination of them among foreigners. I re- 
plied, cc We are now at peace, and no alarm is felt at 
present that the liberties of our nation are in danger. 
You know the old adage, 

c Satan always finds some work 
For idle hands to do ' — 

His Majesty (although we profess not to be subject to 
kings) is now exercising his talents in the way of abuse; 
but should our liberties be invaded, I think that they 
would unite to a man in repelling their invaders." 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 61 

V Should that ever be the case," remarked one, " they 
have not the courage that was possessed by former gen- 
erations." il England has tried our courage twice," I 
replied, " if she doubts it now, let her try again." 

12. The weather is very hot. Natives, musquitoes 
and flies are swarming my house. I take a stick and 
drive the children away, lock the door to keep out the 
grown people, shut my mouth to keep the flies from going 
down my throat, bear the stings of the musquitoes as 
well as possible, and try to look amiable, but do not feel 
so. 

13. Received a visit from the Queen of Bau, or the 
Marama-lavu, as she is called. The title of Marama is 
given to all females of high rank, and Marama-lavu is 
the title of the highest rank, as Tui and Turaga-lavu are 
the titles of great chiefs. Tui is their word for king— 
Lavu is their word for great. I do not learn that the fe- 
males have more than two titles — Marama and Yande — 
the latter of which answers to our word for madam. My 
visitor is the principal wife of Tanoa, although he has 
many others of equal rank. After her departure, the fol- 
lowing interesting tale was related respecting her lady- 
ship. 

Not long since, she cast her eyes upon a young man, 
as did the Queen of Egypt upon Joseph; but the young 
man in this case, having no garment to leave in her 
hands, and not possessing the virtue of Joseph, after 
some time yielded to her entreaties, though he had no 
love for the woman, and great fear of the king. The 
Marama, fearing that the story of her love would get to 
the ears of the king, told him that she had been insulted 
by the man, and had him clubbed to death at once. 
These are the facts, though not given in the words of the 
narrator. 



62 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

14. Mr. Hunt visited Capt. Stratton and lady, on 
on board the Columbine. Thakombau was there, and 
seemed quite disposed to tease Mr. Hunt, saying to him, 
" If I am the first to ' lotu ' among my people, I shall be 
first in heaven, shall I not?" " If you love God the 
most, and serve him the best, you may have a higher 
place in heaven," replied Mr. Hunt. " But, "said he, 
" Namosimalua has ' lotued.' Have you given him glass 
windows for his new house, and English carpets for his 
floors, and have you sent to England for a vessel for 
him?" u He gets no riches because he has renounced 
heathenism. We do not come here to give riches to 
those who c lotu,' but to tell you about God and Jesus 
Christ, that you may love Him, and your souls be saved," 
said Mr. H. " Then I will not « lotu, 9 " he replied. He 
then inquired about the resurrection. Mr. H. told him 
that his body, and the bodies of all those he had eaten, 
would be raised at the day of judgment, and if he did not 
repent, they would all be sentenced to the " buka-ivaqa " 
together. "Well," replied he, " it is a fine thing to 
have a fire in cold weather." Mr. Hunt said, " I shall 
still pray for you with a good mind, although you treat 
the subject so lightly." To which he replied, "Go on 
with that." 

15. Visited by a Ban lady, who brought me a present 
of a mat. She said that was her love to me, and that her 
husband, who was a great chief of Bau, but was now 
dead, had loved my husband very much; on this account 
she loved my husband and me very much. She informed 
us that two men were eaten in Bau yesterday, and a wo- 
man the day before. 

18. Mr. Hunt received a visit from the great high 
priest of Bau. He looks as though he was well fed. 

19. Received a visit from another of the wives of Ta- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 63 

noa. Not long since this woman came to Vewa to re- 
ceive medical treatment. While here she renounced 
heathenism, but when she recovered and returned to 
Bau, Thakombau said that she had " lotued," that she 
might not be strangled when his father died; and he 
compelled her to return to heathenism again. 

21. Mrs. Stratton passed the day with us. In the af- 
ternoon we walked to the heathen temple, of which there 
is but one in the place. Being situated on the brow of a 
hill, and surrounded by trees, its appearance from the 
sea is quite picturesque and beautiful. 

The temples of Feejee are called "buris" of which 
there are three classes. Two of them are sacred to their 
gods, and no woman is allowed to enter them. At the 
time of the destruction of Vewa by the French, the tem- 
ples were also destroyed. In 1843, the present one was 
built, but the priest dying about the same time, no one 
could be found to sustain the office, both of the sons of 
the old priest having become Christians. 

22. Mrs. Jaggar and myself called this afternoon on 
the Marama at her new house. Namosimalua saw us go 
into his house, from his garden, and soon came to tell us 
how glad he was to see us. We noticed among his wo- 
men one who was dumb. Vatai said that about two 
years since, she was married, and very soon after sick- 
ened, and as her friends thought, died. Her body was 
prepared for the grave, and as they were bearing it out 
of the house, her mother said, "No, she shall not be 
buried yet; lay her here, by the door." They left the 
body by the door, and departed. Some time after, signs 
of life were perceived, which soon increased to a cer- 
tainty. She recovered her health, but has never spoken 
since. Namosi asked Mrs. Jaggar if her speech would 
not be restored if she turned Christian. Mrs. J. told her 



64 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

that it would be well for her to become a Christian, that 
her soul might be saved, but she could not say that her 
power of speech would be restored. 

There are many strangers here as the day is fine. My 
windows are surrounded with admirers. I receive nearly 
as many compliments as my house. Being nearly over- 
powered by the delightful odor of my room, as the copper- 
colored blinds prevented the pure breezes of heaven from 
passing through, I left, and passed the most of the day 
with my pleasant neighbors. 

23. We learn that a town belonging to Rewa has 
been destroyed by Bau. Six men were killed, who were 
taken to Bau and eaten. 

Mrs. Jaggar, Mrs. Watsford and myself, have com- 
menced teaching a class of girls to sew; one teaching 
one week, and the other the next, and so on. Mrs. 
Hunt does not join us at present, on account of ill health. 

24. Namosimalua has beaten two of his women most 
unmercifully, for some trifling fault. None seem to like 
him or respect his character. Many of his women are 
pious, but cannot enjoy the privileges of the church while 
living in a state of concubinage, and this they are com- 
pelled to do, as he will not release them. He is neither 
Christian nor heathen. He has renounced many of his 
heathen practices, given up cannibalism, has no confi- 
dence in heathen gods, believes in the only true God, but 
neither loves nor serves Him. 

March 8. The solemn notes of a bell are now sound- 
ing in my ears. Some one is about to be laid in his 
last resting-place on earth. How many times has the 
bell of my own church tolled since I left my native land! 
Many of my own loved friends, from whom I parted in 
the full glow of health, may be resting in the cold grave. 
I am 15,000 miles from home. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 65 

16. Capt. Stratton has sailed for Sydney, and taken 
letters to forward to England and America. The white 
men living at this place, of whom there are several, pro- 
cured rum from Capt. S., and had a grand time last 
night. They sent for Verani, and invited him to join 
them; this he refused, telling them that he did not wish 
to get drunk, that it was bad to do so. They told him 
that the drink they offered him was not rum, but wine, 
which the missionaries had given to a sick woman, wife 
of one of the tempters. Verani thought it no harm to 
drink wine, and soon they all became drunk together. 

21. Verani came to Mr. Jaggar, and inquired why 
religious services were to be held on this day. He was 
told that it was " Good Friday," the day on which it was 
supposed that Jesus Christ died. " Then this shall be 
the day on which I will lotu," said Verani; and in ac- 
cordance with this resolution, he attended the morning 
prayer meeting, and on his knees, publicly renounced 
heathenism. It appears that the mind of this chief has 
been much exercised upon the subject of religion for 
some two or three months past, but he has had much to 
struggle against. He has fully believed, that unless he 
repented of his sins, and loved God, he could not be 
happy in another world. If he became a Christian, how- 
ever, he must not only brave the resentment of Thakom- 
bau, which is no slight thing, but he must give up all 
which is dear to a heathen; and in return he sees in 
prospect no earthly reward. He knows that those who 
become Christians, gain no riches from the missionaries; 
but are taught how to gain the " pearl of great price," 
and that is all. He could not expect to gain any thing 
from the masters of trading vessels, either, for these, 
with but very few exceptions, prefer to have nothing to 
do with Christianity, or Christians. It may be seen from 
5 



66 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

this, that he is now willing to give np all for the salvation 
of his soul. He has learned to read, and has many times 
of late sat up all night with a teacher, talking about re- 
ligion. 

The Lasakaus have at length accomplished their pur- 
pose. Nalela was killed last night in Bau. Navinde 
has been here very often since the pretended reconcilia- 
tion, and used every means to convince Nalela of his sin- 
cerity. Nalela has, however, declined going to Bau to 
live, but occasionally visited there. Last night, as he 
was sitting in the " buri, " he was shot. The Marama 
and others of his women have gone to Bau, where it is 
most likely that some of them will be strangled. Namo- 
simalua looks dark, and says that Bau is determined to 
kill off the old chiefs, and his turn will soon come. He 
has sent to Bau to ask if this is intended as an insult to 
Vewa. If so, they may come on; Vewa is ready to meet 
them. 

Last evening Vewa received a present of several mus- 
kets and kegs of powder from Thakombau. This was, 
that he might receive the news of the morning with tl a 
good mind." Bau has as much to do with the affair as 
Lasakau. 

22. Nalela went to Bau the day before he was killed, 
to see Navinde, who, they pretended, was sick. He 
spent his first night there safely, and avowed his intention 
of remaining the second. During the day, some friend 
secretly warned him of his danger, and advised his re- 
turn to Vewa immediately. He disregarded the friendly 
warning and decided to remain, thinking, perhaps, if they 
were determined to kill him, they might as well accom- 
plish their purpose at once. He had been a prisoner for 
three years, and had now tasted again the sweets of lib- 
erty, rendered doubly dear, no doubt, by being so long 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 67 

deprived of them. In the evening, Nalela, with his fa- 
ther, Navinde, and others, were seated in the great 
"buri " of Ban, drinking yanggona, and enjoying a social 
chat, when suddenly the report of a musket was heard, 
and Nalela fell. Navinde sprung to his feet, and struck 
the fallen chief several blows with his club. The poor 
old father of Nalela said to him, " Oh, do not do that, he 
will die with the shot." With the fury of a demon, Na- 
vinde turned, and struck the old man so violently that he 
fell to the ground a corpse. In the morning Tanoa was 
told of the death of Nalela. "Very good," said the 
king, " send to Vewa that his wife may come and kiss 
the body of her husband." She found his body exceed- 
ingly mutilated — the heart, liver and tongue had been 
devoured. 

23. The chiefs of Bau would not consent to strangle 
any of the women that had belonged to Nalela, as they 
wished to have him feel the effects of their hatred in the 
next world. After having shot and clubbed him out of 
this world, they mean to starve him in the next, by not 
allowing any woman to go with him to do his cooking. 
The Marama, after returning from Bau, went to Namosi- 
malua, and said, " Come, strangle me quick, that my 
spirit may go with the spirit of Nalela, and comfort him; 
he is even now faint for food." Namosi is Christian 
enough to refuse her request. She then applied to Ve- 
rani, who said, " No, you must not be strangled, for you 
can do no good to Nalela where he is; you must live and 
repent of your sins, that when you die, you may go 
to heaven." "Ah!" she exclaimed, in accents of the 
deepest woe, " it is true that no one loves me. There 
was one that loved me, but they have killed him, and 
there is not one left that loves me enough to send me to 



68 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

him. You are my brother, but you do not love me. I 
will starve myself." 

The manner of strangling the females when a chief 
dies, is as follows : — The woman first kisses the corpse, 
then hastens to the house of her nearest male relative, or 
in his absence, to the chief, and says, " I wish to die, 
that I may go where my husband is. Love me, and 
make haste to strangle me, that I may hasten and over- 
take him. 3 ' The relatives applaud her resolution, and 
direct her to bathe herself. Her ablutions being accom- 
plished, her female friends accompany her to the house 
of the deceased with all despatch, and dress and decorate 
her for the journey which she is about to undertake. 
Her mother, if alive, spreads a mat for her to sit upon. 
All, then, give her their parting salutation. While some 
rejoice at, and commend her heroism, occasionally there 
are some whose feelings recoil at the apparatus of death, 
and by such persons (but the number is comparatively 
few), the murderous cord is touched with a trembling 
hand, or seized with the grasp of a maniac. The widow 
summons all her energy, and surrenders herself to her 
murderers. The willing victim is placed in the lap of a 
female, and a piece of native cloth is folded so as to make 
a strong cord, which is placed round her neck. A knot 
is tied on each side of the windpipe, and the two ends 
are made to pass each other in opposite directions; and 
while one woman is pressing down her head, and another 
holding her hand over her mouth and nostrils, five or six 
men take hold of each end of the cord, and pull it till the 
two ends meet, or pass each other. The work of death 
is violent, brief and certain. The body is soon stretched 
on the mat a breathless corpse. The cord is left about 
her neck, the ends unfolded and tied in a knot. The 
body is then rubbed over with tumeric, and placed by 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 69 

the side of the dead chief. The friends of the chief then 
present a whale's tooth to her nearest male relative, and 
say, iC A kenai sere, ni wa ni kuna." — "This is the un- 
tying of the cord of strangling." The cord is then un- 
tied, and left loose about her neck. She is buried in the 
same grave with her husband. If the chief is of very 
high rank, several women are thus sacrificed. 

24. Mr. Hunt has visited at the house of the mur- 
dered chief. He did not see the widow, but found the 
other women making a great noise. It is the custom to 
burn the houses of deceased chiefs, with exery thing they 
contain; but Verani would not allow it in this case. The 
widow has, however, burned and broken many articles, 
and the last accounts stated that she was hard at work in 
accomplishing the ruin of a pair of strong scissors. 

Naleia was a very wicked, blood-thirsty tyrant. Al- 
though while a prisoner at Vewa, in constant fear and 
real danger, yet he omitted no opportunity of showing 
his amiable character. He was a " vasu " to Vewa, and 
exercised his power with the younger portion of the pop- 
ulation, in the most despotic manner. 

Not long since, Masapai told one of his men to take a 
pig belonging to himself, to another island, which he 
named. Naleia heard of it, and determined to kill the 
man who had executed the orders of Masapai. Mr. 
Hunt heard of the affair, and " soroed " to the chief in 
time to save the life of the young man. " To soro" is 
to take a present to the offended party, and say " Au 
soro," "I ask pardon." 

25. Last evening being fine, and lighted by the full, 
unclouded moon, Mr. and Mrs. Watsford and myself 
walked to the spacious mansion of the Turaga-lavu. The 
prospect from the elevation where this mansion is located, 
is extensive and beautiful, either by sunlight or moon- 



70 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

light. I love beautiful prospects, rich and charming 
scenery, but fail in any attempt to describe it. As we 
reached the dwelling of the chief, we heard the sound of 
prayer. When it was ended, Namosi and Vatai came 
forth. We remarked that we had come to look at the 
bright moon, the sparkling waters, and the lands of Fee- 
jee. Namosi said, "The sun is true, the moon is true 
and the stars are true, for they were made by the true 
God. 55 Vatai said, " Many have been the days of my 
foolishness, when I did not know the true God. I believed 
in the gods of Feejee. When the lands trembled, I be- 
lieved that the god Dengai turned over in his cave, and 
that caused the earth to shake. 55 

^26. Received a nice basket and a pair of chickens, 
as a present from Verani. He appears quite like a 
young convert. He says that his past life has been one 
of wickedness, that he prays a great deal that God will 
pardon him, and he appears very anxious for instruction, 
that he may know what is right, and sin no more. He 
says, also, that he has served the gods of Feejee long 
enough, and he has learned that they are false; that 
there is one true God, and Him will he serve. 

°21. Thakombau has been told that Verani has tc lo- 
tued." " Have you seen him c loiuV 5} asked the angry 
chief. "Yes, 55 was the reply. " Tell him, then, to go 
to his God for his food; he shall have none from my 
lands. He has not hearkened to my speech. I told him 
to wait a little, and then we would ' lotu 5 together. Tell 
him to stay at Vewa. He is not to come to Bau any 
more, or receive riches from me. 55 When the message 
was delivered to Verani, he replied, " I do not want 
riches. I want to go to heaven more than to receive 
riches, and go to the ' buka waqa.' The lands are the 
Lord's. If He sees fit, I shall not want food. If I am 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 71 

hungry, it will be but a little time before I shall die, and 
go to heaven, and I shall never be hungry there." 

A message came to Namosimalua at the same time, 
saying, " Verani has ' loiued^ therefore you must give it 
up, as I wish one of you to serve as a ' Namataneva- 
nua.' " This is the name of one of the principal officers 
of state, or " eyes of the land." One or more of these 
are always near the person of the king, and are the con- 
necting link between him and his people. They receive 
messengers, report their business to him, and communi- 
cate his orders to them. Many of them are special mes- 
sengers to different towns, the name of which, with the 
word " mata " prefixed, constitutes their title, as " Mata 



CHAPTER IT. 

An instance of Feejeean Justice — Visit to the Lasakau Widow— A Sab- 
bath in Vewa— A Feejeean Princess — Arrival of the Zotoff — Meeting of 
the Chiefs on board— Polygamy — Departure from Vewa — Treachery of 
a Chief — Arrival at Bua — Its King—Introduction of Fire-arms. 

March 28. To-day another message from Bau has 
been received, saying, " Verani, send us the riches that 
you have obtained by ' lotuing.' 9 They belong to us. Why 
have you ' lotuedV What have we done, that you have 
become angry with us, and left us?" Verani sent back 
the following answer: — " You well know that I receive 
no riches by ' lotuing.' " You ask, " why I have c /o- 
iuedV " My reply is, " To save my soul. It is not be- 
cause I am angry with you, but I was afraid to wait 
longer, lest I should die and lose my soul. Some time 
ago you wished me to build a e huri kalou-S I did as you 



72 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

wished. After the £ buri ' was built, my child died. I 
cut the posts for another ' 6?/W;' and another child died; 
my intimate friend was killed also. I then began to 
think that the gods of Feejee were lying gods, and 
thought I would see what the ' lotu ' books said about the 
' papalagi's ' God. The teachers sent to me, and told me 
about the true God. I believed that He would not lie. 
I did not dare to wait for you, and now I have promised 
to serve Him." 

29. A Bau chief visited Mr. Hunt and related the 
following little incident. A man was suspected of having 
stolen some yarns from a plantation belonging to Tanoa. 
No one could prove his guilt; therefore, they tried him 
by the following ordeal. A native took a stick, and mut- 
tered over it some words, then handed it to one ©f their 
" seers." If the suspected one is guilty, the "seer" 
feels a peculiar pain in his arm. In this case the pain 
came, and the man was pronounced guilty, and condemn- 
ed to die. But the man had taken himself out of the 
way. When this was told Tanoa, the humane monarch 
said, " Ah, well, take his father and kill him; it makes 
no difference." The innocent father was killed for the 
fault, real or supposed, of the son. 

Namosimalua has been in, and says that he has re- 
ceived private information from Bau that its chiefs, or a 
part of them, have repeatedly tried to get Nalela to kill 
him; and he thinks that Nalela would have done so, had 
he not have kept himself out of the way. 

30. Verani has married one of his four wives, and 
disposed of the others as follows: — One is to be the wife 
of a cousin, another of a nephew, and the third is living 
at Bua with her father, the king of that place. It is not 
improbable that Tuimbua will be greatly offended that 
his daughter is rejected. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 73 

In the afternoon Mrs. Jaggar and myself called on 
Verani. He said that when Mr. Wallis was here on his 
former voyage, he told him, " That unless they hoth be- 
came good men, they would go to the ' buku ivaqa ' 
when they died." He told him in reply, that when he 
came back to Feejee, he would become a Christian, and 
they would go to church together. 

From the house of Verani, we went to the house of 
the widow of Nalela. As we stooped to enter the door, 
we observed eight fingers on the ends of sticks, just over 
our heads. At the right hand of the entrance stood the 
block, stained with the blood of the mutilated hands. 
The mourning widow was seated near the door, and two 
women near her, engaged in burning her back. A few 
sticks of sandal wood were burning near, and one of the 
women was employed in rolling up pieces of native cloth, 
which she would light at the fire and hand it to the other 
women, who applied it to the back of the mourner, who 
sat perfectly quiet under the operation. The widow and 
all the rest of the women had their heads shaved, and all 
but her were minus a finger. The house was darkened, 
and every one was still; but they had been howling most 
dreadfully. The Marama has adhered, thus far, to her 
resolution of starvation, and no entreaties had prevailed 
upon her to take food till our visit. Mrs. Jaggar said 
to her in the tenderest manner, — " You cannot help Na- 
lela now. It is true that he does not need your com- 
pany. Do not starve yourself, but live, take some food, 
and become a good woman that you may go to heaven 
when you die." She replied, very sadly, " I do not wish 
to do that. I only wish to die, that I may see my mur- 
dered husband again." After a pause, she asked, 
" Shall I ever see Nalela again?" " Yes," was the re- 
ply, "you will." After some- more conversation, she 



74 LIFE INFEEJEE. 

consented to take some arrow-root. On our return, some 
was prepared. I took it to her, but she made many ex- 
cuses, saying "That she could not eat, it was so long 
since she had taken any." 1 told herth at she had prom- 
ised, and I should remain by her till I had seen her prom- 
ise performed. " It will do you no good that I eat," she 
said; "No," replied I, (through David, my interpreter,) 
" but it is my love for you." " Why do you love me?" 
asked she. "Because God made you, and I wish you 
to go to heaven," I* replied. "I will eat," she said, 
" and live." As she had touched the dead body of her 
husband, her hands were " lambaed" for forty days; but 
one of her servants was called, who fed her. The poor 
creature suffered a great deal in swallowing at first. 

31. The old men and the wise men of Vewa were 
called together, to consult with its chief upon a matter 
of vast importance. When all were assembled, Namosi 
made known the fact that a pig had been stolen from 
him, and he had assembled them together to ask if it 
would not be well to strangle the thief. " What!" says 
an old man, " kill a man for a pig! In the days of our 
foolishness we did these things; but now we know better. 
Have we not been taught that a man is worth more 
than a pig?" Another said, "Are you a lotu chief, and 
talk of taking the life of a man for a pig?" Another re- 
marked, that "They were ashamed of their chief; he 
was such a bad man that they did not go to see him, but 
kept away from his house." Yerani said, "Let the 
man work for you, or restore two pigs for the one he has 
stolen." 

Before Namosi renounced heathenism, if a man had 
offended him, even in the most trifling manner, he 
would have had the offender killed at once. He might 
have done the same in this case, for there is no law to 



LIFEINFEEJEE. 75 

punish him for it, and his not doing it shows that he is 
somewhat under the restraints of Christianity. The in- 
dependence and fearlessness which his subjects have 
manifested in the expression of their feelings, are much 
to be admired. They show that they cannot respect evil 
even in their chief. The wisdom of Verani's counsel, 
too, coming from one so late a heathen, shows that the 
Spirit of the Lord is the best teacher. 

April 1. Received a visit from Narnosi and the old 
chief who killed one of his women the other day, and 
sent her to Bau to be eaten. He is a great cannibal 
himself. He told Mr. Hunt the other day that he had 
killed and eaten a great many people, and that he ex- 
pected to be killed himself, when his body would be 
eaten by Feejeeans, and his soul would go to the " buku 
waqa," and burn forever. i( Ah, Marama," he exclaim- 
ed, as they came into the house, "you are a god! — 
Truly, you are a god !" 

2. Sabbath. Several of the heathen have renounced 
their gods to-day, and several couples have been married. 
Mr. Watsford usually preaches on some of the adjacent 
islands. He has been here but a short time, but has 
advanced rapidly in his knowledge of the language, and 
appears desirous to do good among this degraded race. 

All who renounce heathenism are required to attend 
the day schools to be instructed in reading. A school is 
held each day for adults, and one for children. Two 
hours are devoted, on Monday afternoons, to the exami- 
nation of the natives upon what they may have heard on 
the Sabbath. Mr. Hunt is preparing an interesting class 
of young men to become teachers to their own people. 
Preaching in native every Wednesday afternoon. A 
prayer meeting is held on Saturday afternoons, and at 
sunrise on Sabbath mornings. 



76 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

No idle time is spent by these devoted missionaries; — 
no indolence of a tropical clime is suffered to steal away 
the moments which they feel belong to the Master whom 
they have come here to serve. No one, who sees life as 
it is in Feejee, can doubt that intelligent men and wo- 
men, who are willing to renounce the comforts of home 
and come here to bring the gospel, are actuated by any 
other motive than true love to God. Here is no ro- 
mance, no poetry, but heathenism in its lowest state of 
degradation. 

3. A message has been received from Bau, com- 
manding the men of Vewa to go and assist in building the 
town of Suva, in place of the one that has been destroyed 
by Rewa. I received by the messenger a present of a 
Feejeean basket and a wig, from the daughter of Tha- 
kombau. My head may now be abundantly supplied if I 
should lose my hair; but I should hardly dare avail my- 
self of the beautiful appendage in this climate, lest I 
should have to mourn the loss of brains as well as hair. 

I visited my "protege," as is my daily custom, and 
carried her bread and arrow-root, which Mrs. Hunt 
kindly allows me to have prepared for her. She smiles 
when she sees me, but her countenance is one of deep 
sadness, and she talks much about Nalela. David Whip- 
py generally goes with me and acts as interpreter. I 
often remain a long time with her. 

4. Attended a wedding at the chapel. A daughter 
of Mr. Whippy was married to a young man named 
Christy. 

I have been troubled all day with company from Bau. 
Samonunu made me a present often mats. 

6. My sewing class brought me a fine boquet of wild 
flowers. The children of the place having learned my 
fondness for flowers, seldom allow my table to remain 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 77 

without them. I have received a visit from the chief of 
Kamba, who brought me a basket of fine " ndawas," a 
fruit not unlike a plum. 

9. Received a visit from Samonunu and the little 
princess, daughter of Thakombau. It is the custom of 
the great ones of these lands to confide their children of 
high rank to the care of one of their officers. In this 
case the little " Kagua " was given in charge to a u Ma- 
tavanua " of Bau, named Vakambua, who, with his wife, 
has the sole care of her; and their authority appears to 
supersede that of the parents. About a year ago the 
child was taken sick with an intermittent fever. Tha- 
kombau said it would be good for her to go to Vewa, 
"/oht," and receive medical aid from the missionaries. 
Vakambua, however, was of the opinion that the Fee- 
jeean gods could cure her as well. She has now been 
suffering under a similar attack ; but the Feejeean 
gods proving deaf or obstinate, they have brought the 
child to Yewa, and she has renounced heathenism. 
Medicines are dispensed to all who apply, whether hea- 
then or Christian; but the heathen appear to think that 
the white man's God would not heal a worshipper of a 
heathen god. I cannot learn where they got this idea, 
but perhaps it is not a bad one, since it brings more peo- 
ple under religious instruction. 

10. As I was returning to my house, after breakfast, 
I found the steps covered with ripe bananas, which had 
been brought by the chief of Kamba, who came with 
four of his women. to see me and my good house. I ask- 
ed him if the women were his wives. He said they were, 
and asked how many Mr. Wallis had. When I told 
him that he had but one, he exclaimed, "What a bad 
man to have but one wife!" "No," I replied. "You 
are a very bad man to have so many wives." At this 



78 L I F E I N F E E J E E . 

the old man laughed most heartily. It is not customary 
for chiefs to be accompanied any where by their women. 
This is the first instance I have known. The old man, 
however, is only a petty chief. 

14. The bark ZotofF has arrived from Mathuata, and 
I am now on board. Retova, with his priest and several 
of his attendants, came up in the vessel. Tuimathuata 
formerly governed the lands and waters which are now 
governed by Retova. The king is an uncle of the pres- 
ent chief, who has driven him from his dominions, and 
he now lives in exile at a place called Muta. The man- 
ners of Retova are even courteous. I am surprised at 
the mild and affable behavior of all these cannibals. 

15. This morning Thakombau came on board early, 
and soon after, Namosimalua and Retova came. Tha- 
kombau was seated on the sofa (a privilege granted to 
him and his father only,) when the two chiefs entered the 
cabin. The chiefs, with their Matavanuas and other 
officers, seated themselves on the floor. No one spoke 
when they entered, nor for some time after. It was with 
some effort that I was able to look grave and sober on 
this eventful occasion; for if ever I feel an inclination to 
laugh, it is when a large company are assembled, and 
silence reigns. At length the Matavanua ofVewa said 
that "It was good that Retova had come to see them." 
To which they all responded, "Maria, ndina" and slow- 
ly clapped their hands. Retova then ordered a box con- 
taining whale's teeth to be brought forward. His Mata- 
vanua took the teeth and made a speech, declaring the 
friendship of Retova for Rau, and his wish to live in 
peace with the powers that be. The chief officer of 
Thakombau accepted the offering, and made a speech 
quite as friendly in return. It was some time after the 
speeches were ended before the chiefs spoke; but at 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 79 

length they became quite social. Retova's visit is at 
Vevva, where he has come to obtain mats for his (i buri." 
He is afraid to go to Bau, as Tanoa does not like his 
conduct to the king, his uncle, who is a friend of Tanoa's. 

After dinner Thakombau and Namosimalua held a long 
conversation. Thakombau told the latter that he was 
trying to have him killed. Namosi said, " No; you are 
a great chief, and I could not kill you; but I am a 
"kaise" (a poor person,) and am continually afraid of 
my life." Thakombau went on charging him with de- 
ceit, treachery, &c, till the old man cried out, " It is 
enough, it is enough." "No," said the angry chief, 
"we are here. You are not on my land, nor am I on 
yours. This is the place to tell you my mind, and I will 
do it." Namosi had to listen and be still. After the 
conversation was ended, Namosi, feeling the need of 
consolation, applied to Mr. W. for some rum. This was 
refused, as there was but little on board, and that was 
kept for medicinal purposes. The refusal made him an- 
gry, and he took Retova aside and said, " Do not let 
your people fish for Mr. Wallis. I have looked, and he 
has no riches in his vessel; he will not pay you, for he 
is a ' kaise sara 9 (a poor man indeed)." 

16. Mr. W. invited the old king to breakfast with us, 
but forgot the invitation; and when His Majesty came, 
no food was prepared for him. Such forgetfulness, how- 
ever, is pardonable in an American. How should they 
know how to treat kings! The favorite companions of 
the king are old men and boys (children in both stages). 
He brought a large number with him. The boys per- 
formed several amusing dances on deck, the evolutions 
of which were not ungraceful. Tanoa asked if I was the 
only wife of my husband. On being told that I was, he 
said, "That is bad, Mr. Wallis, you should have more." 



80 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

He then became quite animated while enumerating the 
advantages of polygamy, said that he had one hundred 
wives, and ended by advising my husband to get an im- 
mediate supply. I asked him if his hundred women 
were not jealous, and if they did not quarrel. He said 
cc That they did sometimes, but when that was the case 
he had them clubbed, and the matter was ended." After 
the departure of the king and his suite, Thakombau, 
with many other chiefs, came and spent the remainder 
of the day. 

17. Revelete, Navinde and Yerani made us a visit. 
Revelete, it will be recollected, is the son of Tanoa, 
who stole the girl from Nalela. I presume she did not 
much regret leaving that wicked-looking Nalela for the 
gay Lothario. The mother of Revelete is a sister of the 
king of Rewa; therefore he is a "vasu" to the kingdom 
of Rewa, and can go there at any time with perfect 
safety. She has no love for her husband, and is residing 
at Rewa among her kindred. Verani talked long and 
faithfully with Navinde about religion. The chief said 
that the " lotu " was very good, but he dared not em- 
brace it, as he feared the anger of Thakombau. " I 
once feared his anger," said Verani, "but what is his 
anger in comparison with the value of our souls? His 
anger cannot reach us in another world, but can only 
hurt us in this, and it is but a little thing to suffer here, 
if we may go to heaven when we die. Oh, we have 
been very bad men ! May the true God save all our 
souls." 

18. It being arranged that I should accompany my 
husband to Mathuata, we visited Vewa for the purpose of 
taking leave of our very kind friends, — the missionaries. 
I went also to visit the Lasakau widow. She promised me 
that she would " lotu" as soon as the days of her mourn- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 81 

ing had expired, which were seventy from the day that 
her husband was murdered. "Ah! 55 said she, "the 
friend who has loved me is going away, and I shall not 
see her for a long time, but after she has departed I will 
learn to love the God that she loves. She kissed my 
hands several times, and said, " Will you not love me 
when you are far away?" 1 answered, " Yes, 55 and left 
her, feeling that she would become a good woman. 

When I returned to Mr. Hunt 5 s, Amelia, a pretty 
Tongu girl, who had served me during my residence 

in V , stood folding some clothes that she had been 

washing for me, and said, "Ah! I can wash no more 
clothes for Marama; — these are the last! Why can she 
not continue to live at Vewa? 55 

After taking leave of the dear families with whom 
I had spent so many happy hours, we repaired to the 
shore, where our boat waited. Here we found the ser- 
vants belonging to the three mission families, our sewing 
class, Vatai with her household, and many of the inhabi- 
tants of Vewa assembled to bid me farewell. All came 
forward to shake hands, and said in tones of sadness, 
" Marama s a lako," — Marama is going. They would, 
probably, have manifested the same affection and inter- 
est in any white female who had resided among them the 
same length of time. 

It is my wish to show the Feejeeans as I found them, 
and to record truly their several traits of character as 
they came under my own observation. Little has been 
known of this people except that they are cannibals. It 
is said that there is not one of the natives of Vewa, over 
five years of age, that has not eaten human flesh. The 
hands of the slain are given to the children to eat; and 
a common amusement of the young is to lash a string 
about a log of wood, when they had no little bodies, and 
6 



82 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

drag them about, crying, " Here is my dead body, here 
is my dead body." They will then play cut it up and 
bake it. 

18. On our return to the bark we found the little 
princess, with her guardians, on board. She brought 
me a present of a large hog and an orange cowrie shell. 
They call her Mary Wallis, and me, Kagua, which I am 
told is a great compliment. 

19. The weather is not suitable for sailing to-day. 
Thakombau has been to visit us, and brought us the fol- 
lowing item of news. It appears that the inhabitants of 
a town near here, on Vetelavu, possessed a knowledge 
of poisonous herbs. A short time since, they tried their 
skill upon ten men belonging to another town; six of 
them died and four recovered. The chief reported the 
case to Thakombau, and asked permission to kill the na- 
tives of the offending town. They were told to do as 
he liked. All were massacred save one. We asked if 
the bodies were brought to Bau and eaten. He said, 
" No, they were not my enemies. 3 ' 

20. The weather is still unpleasant. Another visit 
from Thakombau. His mind seems disturbed about the 
"lotu." He tells Mr. W. that if he "Zo/wes," he will 
burn his i( beech de mer" houses, and forbid the natives 
to fish. He says that the i( lotu " is well enough for the 
white people, but Feejeeans are better as they are. He 
seems both provoked and grieved about Verani. One 
day he said to Retova, " Verani sa lotu." His tone and 
manner were the same as our own would be were we 
saying, £C Our friend is dead!" 

21. Verani came on board to take leave of us. He 
gave Retova many charges respecting my safety, should 
any thing happen to the vessel. At eleven, A. M., we 
sailed for Ovalau. Besides Retova and his personal at- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 83 

tendants, we have six or eight others that we take to 
Mathuata on his account. Not content with this, the 
humble chief had ordered several more to come, which the 
captain very unostentatiously sent back. On our arrival 
at Ovalau, we received a visit from Capt. Hartwell, 
whom we found here. 

Retova was offended about something, and did not 
come to tea. On inquiry, it was found that the fatted 
hogs had not been killed in sufficient number for his 
people. The poor creatures scarcely ever get any thing 
more than vegetables to eat on shore, but when on board 
of vessels they cry out for meat. And whose fault is it ? 
Did not the captains begin it, and shall they not carry 
it on? 

Capt. Hartwell says that just before Nalela was kill- 
ed, he sent a native dress belonging to the girl who was 
stolen at Bau, to a place near where he had been fish- 
ing, and had it poisoned, intending to send it to her at 
Bau. A Vewa man heard about it, procured it, and 
carried it to Bau the day before the chief was murdered. 
This, no doubt, hastened his fate. 

In the afternoon the chief of Verata came on board. 
When he saw me, he actually screamed, and called his 
followers to see the i( Marama ni Papalagi." We have 
bought pigs, yams, tarro, bread-fruit and oranges. 

22. We are still at Ovalau waiting for a fair wind. 
A few miles distant from us there is a small island 
called Ngau, the inhabitants of which the Bau people 
tried some years ago to conquer, but in vain. At length 
they gained by treachery what they could not by valor. 
Several canoes filled with warriors approached the 
island, and sent their " Matavanua" to say that if they 
wished to " soro," the soro would be received, and they 
would be at peace. The natives of Ngau then took with 



84 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

them some whale's teeth, a young girl of rank, and a 
basket of earth; their " Matavanua" then approached 
the chiefs of Bau on his knees, presented the " soro," 
which was accepted, and peace was declared. After all 
was settled, the natives proceeded to prepare food for 
their quondam enemies, but now their guests. While 
they were thus employed, the Bau people, set to and 
massacred the men and women, tied the children by 
their heels to the masts of their canoes, and having set 
fire to the houses, departed for Bau. On their arrival 
they were greeted with the sound of the drum and yells 
of savage joy. 

A town was depopulated on Motureke some time since 
in the following manner: — Namosimalua had fought, or 
rather harassed it for a long time without gaining any 
advantage. At length he assembled together a large 
number of men, with several of their largest canoes, and 
sailed for Motureke. On arriving at the place, he fear- 
lessly went on shore, carrying a white flag. He appear- 
ed exceedingly friendly, complimented the natives, tell- 
ing them that they were a strong and brave people, but 
added, tc The chiefs of Bau are great chiefs. They do 
not like to have it said that they cannot subdue you; 
therefore, remove on the island of Ovalau. Let us burn 
your town, that we may say we have conquered, and 
then we will assist you to erect buildings on Ovalau, 
will be your friends, and we shall be at peace." The 
besieged hesitated; their present situation was anything 
but comfortable. Some of their enemies were continu- 
ally on the watch, so that if any of their number went 
from the town they were sure to be killed; they could 
obtain no fish from the reefs, and had long suffered se- 
rious inconveniences. They said, "We have not canoes 
enough to remove." " We will remove you on our 






LIFE IN FEEJEE, 85 

canoes, " said the treacherous chief. After deliberating 
for some time they concluded to accept the terms which 
had been offered, and they embarked with their little 
ones and their goods and chattels. The sails were set 
to the breeze, and the canoes with their victims were 
skimming lightly over the placid waters, when, at a given 
signal from Namosimalua, his warriors massacred all but 
the children, who, as in the case before related, were 
strung to the masts and carried to Bau; those who died 
from their bruises were fried (they usually fry the 
young,) and the others were given over to the tender 
mercies of their own children, to torment them to death. 

Such is the innocence of heathenism. Many times have 
I heard sentiments expressed like the following: — " It 
is useless and unnecessary to send missionaries to the 
heathen; they are innocent and happy as they are, and 
why disturb them? It is cruel, — let them enjoy their own 
customs." Is it cruel, I would ask, to come and tell 
this people that it is not good to eat each other, and 
that it is good to love the Lord Jesus Christ, of whom 
they cannot hear without a preacher, and he cannot 
preach unless he is sent ? But now we come to the cru- 
elty of the thing. It requires money from our pockets to 
send a preacher; and this is cruel. Did it cost us noth- 
ing, we should never hear of the cruelty of saving men's 
souls. 

21. We sailed and arrived at Bua. We anchored 
here for the purpose of taking " beech de mer" on board, 
and breaking up the house. Bua is situated on Vanua- 
lavu and is governed by Tuimbua, who is now quite 
aged. He came on board, but would not come below. 
He is mourning the death of a grandchild, who was a 
son of Verani. He is angry that his daughter has been 
rejected by Verani, and says that she shall be the wife 



86 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

of no other man. His head was shaved and his hands 
were " tamhued," so that he must be fed by some one 
else for a long time. 

25. We got under way and anchored at Yanganga 
about 5 P. M. We are not far from the Vanualavu, 
and can plainly see the rock where a man, named 
Charles Savage, was killed by the natives. It is said 
that sail needles were afterwards made of his bones. 
He was cast away, and the vessel that he came in was 
wrecked some where near Bau. I think it was a Swed- 
ish vessel, which contained a profusion of arms and am- 
munition, that was saved, and Savage taught the Bau 
people their use. He accompanied the Bau warriors to 
their battles, where hundreds, who were ignorant of the 
use and effect of fire-arms, were shot at a time. It is 
said that at one place a fortification, breast high, was 
built around a part of their town, of the dead bodies of 
those who were shot by the inhuman Savage and the Bau 
warriors. He was rightly named, exceeding as he did 
these cannibals in every act of cruelty. One cannot 
feel much sympathy for his ultimate fate. 



CHAPTER V. 

JVJathuata and its Chiefs — Funeral Ceremonies — Conversation with a 
Priest — Wreck of the Ship Glide, of Salem — Jekombea — The Exiled 
Chief — Visit to Vesongo — A Feast. 

April 26. At ten o'clock we set sail for Raverave, but 
owing to a contrary wind, we could only go within five 
miles of the place. On our way we saw a canoe con- 
taining ten natives. Four of them were painted red, 
and were engaged in performing some sort of a dance, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 87 

while one was blowing a conch most lustily. Retova 
said that some chief was dead; and when we came within 
hailing distance, we were told that it was the Turaga- 
lavu Beraga. It appears that Tuimbua, Beraga and Tui- 
mathuata, were the Turaga-lavus of this side of Vanua- 
lavu with the adjacent islands. The kingdom of Tuimbua 
is the first, and where his authority ends, Beraga's com- 
mences, and where his ends, that of Tuimathuata com- 
mences. As has been shown, the latter has been driven 
into exile, and Retova has usurped his authority. Be- 
raga has left no successor; therefore his dominions will 
have no ruler of rank, but several petty chiefs, who will 
probably exercise their authority in harassing each other. 
The ceremonies which are performed after the death of 
a chief of high rank, are exceedingly numerous. When 
death is approaching, his friends present him with whales' 
teeth, that he may be furnished with missiles to throw at 
a certain tree which is supposed to stand in the centre of 
the way between this world and " bulu." Want of skill 
to hit the tree is considered an evil omen, and it is as- 
serted that the souls of the wives of the deceased, who 
are so unfortunate as to miss the tree, are prevented 
from following them. Immediately after life is extinct, 
messengers are sent with a whale's tooth to all the tribes 
who were subject to him, informing them of the decease 
of their chief, and begging them to be of " a good mind." 
The canoe that we saw was bearing messages of this 
character. For some time after the breath has left the * 
body, (and in many instances they do not wait for them 
to die, but if they are insensible, or incapable of helping 
themselves, they say the person is dead, his soul is gone, 
he knows nothing, and go on with all their ceremonies, 
burying them alive,) a profound stillness reigns through- 
out the town, which is at length broken by the loudest 



88 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

outcries, as though they would rend the air with their 
shouts. The grave-diggers are then sent for, whose 
duty it is to wash the corpse, dig the ground and inter 
the bodies. The body, after being washed, is decorated 
in the same manner as it would be were he about to at- 
tend a feast. It is then anointed with oil; the face, 
neck and arms, as far as the elbow, are daubed with a 
jet black, greasy substance; a bandage of white native 
cloth is wound round the head, and tied in a graceful 
knot above the temples; a club is put in each hand, and 
one is placed on the breast, that he may retain his 
rank in the next world as a chief and warrior. The 
body is then laid on a kind of bier, where it is usually 
kept till various personages from the tribes under the do- 
minion of the departed, assemble. On their arrival, the 
chief of each tribe presents a whale's tooth suspended by 
a string. He holds it in his hand, while the Matavanua, 
or some other officer, delivers the following oration: — 

" This is an offering to the dead. We are poor, and 
cannot find riches. Tins is the length of my speech." 
After this eloquent oration, one replied, {C Ai mumudaini 
mati." (A wish that death may not visit them.) All 
who are assembled then respond, " Mana ndena." (Let 
it be so.) 

The grave-diggers then proceed to their business of 
digging a resting place for the dead. This is done in a 
sitting posture, as it is not lawful or respectful to per- 
form the labor standing. Long sticks, sharpened to a 
point, are used as substitutes for spades. Before any of 
the earth is removed, one of the grave-diggers takes a 
stick in his hands, and places himself in an attitude of 
digging, but does not bring the stick in contact with the 
earth. This is done three times, and the fourth time he 
thrusts the stick into the ground, and the first handful of 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 89 

earth which he digs up is called the earth of the god, 
and is carefully preserved in a leaf till the bodies are in- 
terred, when it is placed under a stone on the surface of 
the grave near the centre. After the grave is dug, 
which is scarcely three feet deep, four large green leaves 
are placed on the bottom of it, and the sides are lined 
with mats and cloth. 

When only two females are buried with the chief, one 
is placed on each side; but when more are strangled, 
their bodies are placed on the bottom, on each side, and 
on the top of the corpse, and are covered with the ends of 
the cloth and mats with which the grave is lined. After 
this, a small quantity of earth is put into the grave four 
times with all possible despatch, and then four more 
leaves are put in, and the grave digger says, " A kila na 
Jcala ma kua sa na mate," which is a petition to his god 
that they may live. While the grave diggers are filling 
the grave, the house of the deceased chief, with its con- 
tents, is burned, and when the dead are buried, and the 
house burned, all the natives disperse to bathe. 

The grave diggers are obliged to pass under the 
branch of a certain tree, which two men hold over the 
foot-path. As they pass, they are smartly whipped with 
something resembling the nettles of our own land. This 
is to prevent contamination from the effluvia of the dead 
bodies. After this they bathe, and rub themselves with 
some fragrant herb. 

A little building is erected where the grave diggers live 
for one hundred nights, during which they daily bathe in 
fresh water, taking a club with them, which had been 
deposited in the grave of the dead. They say that the 
spirit of the club went with the departed, and the club 
was not wanted. They are not at liberty to return or 
visit their homes until the hundred nights have expired; 



90 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

but they are plentifully supplied with food, and at the ter- 
mination of the time are sent home with many presents. 

After four days from the time of interment, a neat and 
substantial house is erected over the grave of the dead. 
The hands of all persons who have touched the dead are 
M lambued," and they must receive their food, and be fed 
by others. 

After the death of a chief there are great times, am- 
putating fingers, shaving heads and beards, circumcising 
boys, burning faces, arms, backs, necks, &c. Nor is 
this all : — A grand frolic is held for the space often days 
by all who choose to join in it. The men arm themselves 
with an instrument formed of pieces of bamboo tied 
together, which are about a foot in length, and with these 
they throw mud and clay at the women, seldom missing 
their mark. The women retaliate by severely lashing 
their assailants with the supple roots of trees, or the tough 
stems of creeping shrubs. Those who can procure them, 
often furnish themselves with a bunch of cords, with 
shells attached to the ends. They wield these weapons 
with great efficiency, and frequently produce deep gash- 
es on the backs of their antagonists. The females are 
so ardent and intrepid in the celebration of this part of 
the funeral obsequies, that one is apt to think they are 
determined, during this reign of anarchy, to redress all 
former grievances, and avenge all the wrongs to which 
they have been obliged to submit. This ceremony is 
called Vainara. 

Thus, at the death of a great chief, all are employed 
in mourning or rejoicing. Some of the near relatives 
fast all day, and feast at night. Some are forbidden to 
eat pork, others to eat yams, &c. They can, however, 
kill and eat each other. Such are the inconsistencies of 
heathenism! 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 91 

27. We sailed for, and arrived at Raverave. Its chief 
dared not go on shore till he had received some intelli- 
gence from the town. A canoe came off, and said that 
all was right, when he ventured to revisit his home. 

28. Retova, with his "Bete" (priest), and many 
others, came to get their mats, which they brought for a 
"buri," which has been recently erected. We asked 
the "Jiete " how many people they intended to kill when 
the mats were placed in the " buri" He said he did not 
know. He was then asked how many had been killed 
during its erection. He replied, "only five;" and said, 
"One night when the e buri ' was nearly completed, I 
went in and slept. During my sleep, the god came, and 
said, c Go to a town on the mountains, and club three 
men for my house. 5 This was done. In a few days I 
went again to sleep in the c buri,' but this time I did not 
mean that the god .should enter, and I fastened all the 
doors and openings that he might not come in and tell 
me to kill more men. I slept till the god found some 
way to enter, and said, 'Go again to the mountains, and 
bring me two more men.' This order was also execu- 
ted." Mr. W. told the priest that there was a great and 
true God, who made the isles and the waters, the white 
men and the Feejeeans, the sun, moon and stars, and 
that He made their food to grow. He would not lie like 
the Feejeean gods, and was the God to worship. " Yes," 
said the priest, " I know that Jehovah is a very great 
God. If the Feejeeans saw him coming here, they would 
all run, and hide in the bushes." He was told that he 
had heard about the true God at Vewa, and asked why 
he did not worship Him. He replied that he would if 
Retova told him to do so. 

29. We got under way, and reached Kandavu, a 
town about two miles above Raverave, where our 



92 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

schooner is tending a " beech de mer " house. Ratonga, 
a brother of Retova, is one of our number, and has just 
related to us the following little incident. 

On the arrival of Retova, one of his people complained 
that his wife had broken the seventh commandment. 
" She shall be killed," said the chief. When the hus- 
band heard the sentence, he relented, but it was too late. 
The chief had company, and was probably glad to have 
the body for them to eat with their yams. The woman 
was killed and devoured. Ratonga says that none but 
"kaises" eat human flesh, and they say that none but 
the Turagas eat it. This shows that the people are be- 
coming somewhat ashamed of the practice. 

Ratonga wishes me to take the name of Tuikana, for 
his sister, who bears that name. "Tui," means king; 
" kana," is to eat. But what is a name! The word 
Tanoa, means a wooden bowl; it is also the name of the 
King of Bau. 

Kandavu is where the ship Glide, of Salem, was cast 
away some years ago. We have the murderer of the 
Raverave woman on board. He requested to-day to 
have his hatchet ground. Mr. W. asked how it became 
so much injured. He said it struck against the skull of 
the woman that he killed at Raverave. He was asked 
how he committed the deed. He said that she did not 
know she was to be killed, and was on her way to a pond 
to bathe; he stood in the pathway, and after she had 
passed him, wholly unconscious of evil, he struck her in 
the back of her head, and killed her instantly. "Did 
you not feel sorry?" I asked. " Sega au mbasa." — 
"No, I would not," was the reply. He says that her 
husband did not complain to Retova, and did not know 
any thing of the affair till he was told that the body of his 
wife was being cooked. The man cried very loud when 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 93 

he heard this. The amiable Retova heard him, and said, 
" If you do not stop that, you shall soon be cooked, too. 5 ' 

May 6. We sailed for, and arrived at Ndury, after a 
passage of three hours. A canoe has arrived from Je- 
kombea. Harry, our pilot, does not express much de- 
light at their visit. On the voyage preceding this, my 
husband sent a boat containing Harry, a man named 
Tom, four natives, and some trade to buy tortoise shell. 
They were instructed to visit the islands in this vicinity 
for that purpose. On arriving at Jekombea, they an- 
chored the boat, and all went to sleep. The natives 
quietly went off to the boat, killed all but Harry, and took 
possession of the boat and trade. The gentle natives 
supposed at the time that they had killed all on board, 
but as morning advanced, they discovered Harry rolled 
up in a mat. The chief said, " Let him live;" and he 
lived, perhaps, to meet a worse fate from the ruthless 
cannibals of Feejee. Retova is acknowledged as the 
Turaga-lavu of Jekombea; therefore, he received his 
part of the plunder of the boat, and in due time the honest 
chief brought shell, which had been previously bought 
with trade, from the vessel to Mr. W. to buy of him. My 
husband told him that the shell was his, and he should 
not buy it again. 

8. After getting a house under way, and leaving two 
white men to collect cargo, we again set sail for Vesonga. 
I listened, last evening, to the following tale, showing 
how the Jekombearites were outwitted by white men. 

Soon after the escape of Harry, a little boat anchored 
near the island. One native came to the shore, and in- 
vited them to land, telling them that he was a Christian 
teacher that had been sent from Vewa. The white men 
landed, and inquired the name of the island. On being 
told, they said, " Ah; we have a root of yanggona, and 



94 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

some sugar cane for the chief; we will return on board 
for it." Several natives followed to help draw the boat 
nearer the shore. When they had got safely on board 
of their own little craft, they requested a part of the na- 
tives to return to the shore, and get a large stone that 
they might fasten the boat to it. After they had depart- 
ed, the men succeeded in clearing their boat of the rest. 
This being done, they set sail, and were soon in a place 
of safety. 

9. We are still pursuing our way to Vesonga by day, 
and anchoring at night. The reefs and shoals are too 
numerous to {C run" at night. The whole coast this side 
of Vanua lavu, beginning at Kutu and ending at Natawa, 
belongs to Retova and his uncle. I learn that although 
the king has been driven into exile, he is not deprived of 
all his lands. Many towns still adhere to him, though 
such is the treachery of Feejeeans that none can be 
trusted long at a time. A town belonging to one party 
one day, may turn to the other the next, and thus they 
are continually harassing each other for years. 

10. This sailing along through placid lagoons, formed 
by the reefs on one side and the Vanua lavu on the other, 
is very delightful. We can look at golden sunsets, 
sparkling waters, fleecy clouds and dusky natives. 

Nearly every island and reef that we pass, has its in- 
cident. While Mr. W. commanded the Gambia, on the 
voyage preceding this, Retova pretended that he was 
exceedingly anxious to make peace with his uncle. Ac- 
cordingly, he collected a number of men and canoes, with 
the usual presents, and visited him to offer the (i soro." 
The offerings were accepted, and peace was declared. 
Retova was entertained for some days like a great chief, 
and then suffered to depart in safety. While Retova 
was returning to Mathuata, he saw people fishing " beech 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 95 

de mer " from a reef, near which we are passing. The 
ruthless being had them all murdered. This affair put 
an end to the reconciliation which had so recently taken 
place, as several of them belonged to the exiled king. 

11. We anchored between the Vanua lavu and a 
small isle, called Navu. We perceived several canoes 
and natives on the beach; our hostage called to them to 
come on board, but they gave no heed to the invitation. 
They were probably afraid, as a Salem schooner chased 
some canoes here, and fired upon them a short time 
since. 

The little island of Navu, too, has its tale of recent 
occurrence. This isle is not inhabited permanently, but 
canoes often stop here and pass the night. Our hostage, 
with some other natives, and two or three white heathen, 
came here in a canoe. Soon after their arrival, which 
was at night, they perceived a light on Navu. They 
went to the island, where they found two canoes. The 
natives belonging to them being asleep, our worthy hos- 
tage, and a man named Carter, fired upon them, and 
killed several, but not all; some escaped by flight. I 
told him that by and by he would go to the " buku ivaqa," 
and would there receive his reward for all this. "No," 
he said, "the ' buku waqa ' was made for white people; 
the Feejeeans would not be allowed there. Carter has 
subsequently been murdered by three Oahu natives. 

12. We arrived at Vesonga. This place is where 
Tomarau resides, the hero of the late murder at Rave- 
rave. He is the Matavanua from Vesonga to Raverave. 

My husband's purpose in visiting this place, being to 
get a house and fish " beech de mer," Tomarau went on 
shore, and delivered the speech of Retova to the chief, 
who, it seems, bears rule here, though there are several 
petty chiefs residing in the town. 



96 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

13. This morning, a canoe filled with natives came 
off to see the lioness; a white one never having been 
seen by the natives of this part of Feejee. The wonder 
was gazed at, and ewery motion watched with the most 
intense interest. 

14. We were visited last night by a tribe called Na- 
mu. They were all armed with a short, sharp instru- 
ment, and attacked us most furiously. Their numbers 
were so numerous that we found it impossible to defend 
ourselves, and we suffered exceedingly from their poi- 
soned instruments. The English name of this hostile 
tribe, is " Musquitoes." 

15. The chief, Masella, came off to the vessel, and 
wished Mr. VV. to send a boat for his wife, as she wished 
to visit me. The boat was sent, and the Marama came, 
bringing us a present of some bread-fruit. She admired 
me very much, but failed to excite a corresponding sen- 
timent. She asked Mr. W. why he did not bring more 
cf his wives. When he told her he had no more, she 
exclaimed with surprise, " Why! you are a ' Turaga- 
lavu.'" 

20. We visited the reefs. It being perfectly calm, 
the waters were like one vast sheet of glass. As we 
were borne along over the beautiful marine productions 
which every where met the eye, it appeared like some 
enchanted scene. There are times, and places, and 
scenery even in Feejee. In connection with this, I am 
reminded of the following wish expressed by some writer: 
— " I sometimes desire to be far away on the deep blue 
ocean, with nothing but the heavens above, and the wa- 
ters beneath, that I may give utterance to thoughts that 
have dwelt in the depths of my heart from childhood, and 
which it would be profanation for the gross ears of mor- 
tals to hear." Could the same lady have been here in 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 97 

her little boat, she might have " freed her mind." Here 
she could have looked upon splendid beds of coral, and 
admired the beauty of their various hues, and their ar- 
rangement amid the sparkling sands. Here, too, she 
would have for listeners blithe little beings, gaily decked, 
some in gold and purple, and others in azure and silver, 
instead of the uncouth tenants of the great deep, clad in 
sombre grey. But, whoever the lady may be, I think 
she would find no poetry in being alone on the deep blue 
ocean, and would have to search a long time for those 
thoughts which she deems too refined for the gross ears 
of mortals. 

21. Mr. W., believing that nearly all the male inhab- 
itants of Vesonga were fishing on the reefs, proposed 
going on shore to see the " beech de mer " house. When 
the boat was ready, I expressed a wish to accompany 
him. " Perhaps it is not safe," said he. " If it is safe 
for you, it is forme," I replied, and we started with only 
two rowers and ourselves in the boat. When we reached 
the shore we were surprised to see Masella and twenty 
other men upon the beach. I observed that Masella held 
a hatchet behind him, as if trying to hide it. On looking 
around, I perceived the men were all armed; some with 
clubs, and others with muskets. Truly, thought I, we- 
are not so formidable as to require such strength of arms. 
Mr. W. told Masella that we would go to the " beech de 
mer " house first, and then to his house. Some of the 
natives preceded, and others followed us to the building; 
where the li beech de mer" was drying. A deep trencb 
is usually dug the whole length of one of the houses,, 
which is filled with burning logs of wood. The glare and 
heat from such an immense fire, and surrounded as we 
were by nearly naked savages, numbering perhaps fifty 
in all, including women who had joined us, reminded me 
7 



98 LIFEINFEEJEE. 

of the Cl buka ivaqa," and sent a strange sort of thrill 
through my frame. 

Many of the faces of the men were painted a shiny 
black upon one side, and a bright vermillion on the other. 
Others had the forehead, nose, and the upper part of 
their cheeks daubed with one color, and the lower part 
of their faces with another. An endless variety of tastes 
was displayed, which did not in my view add to their 
beauty, although the house was well lighted from the 
deep red flames issuing from the trench, and well 
calculated to show their personal decorations to the 
greatest possible advantage. When we came from the 
house, Mr. W. suddenly altered his mind about visiting 
Masella's house, and we immediately returned to the 
bark. 

22. We received a visit from the "Bete" of the 
town. Mr. W. asked him how it was that he did not 
t{ tambu " the fish for him as he had promised. He re- 
plied that he did, and the fish were all lying still on the 
reefs, but Capt. Cheever came, then the god got mad 
with himself, and Capt. C. got the fish; but not long 
after, Masella got mad with Capt. Cheever, then the 
god was pleased with his priest, and said, " Let no one 
but Capt. Wallis have the fish that are on the reefs.' 3 
Soon after this, another came to get the fish, but the god 
caused a strong wind to blow, and prevented him from 
collecting any, and now he had come, and the god had 
promised fine weather. 

26. The wind last night blew almost a hurricane. As 
several canoes were fishing, some anxiety was felt on 
their account. At sunrise, the out-rigger of a canoe was 
discovered at some distance with people on it; a boat was 
sent, which took up five. Four women swam for the 
shore, a distance of two miles, which they reached in 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 99 

safety. In the afternoon, the priest came on board again. 
He was asked why his god sent such a wind after promis- 
ing fine weather. "My god was angry because you did 
not give me a knife when I was here last," was the reply. 

June 1. Retova has visited us on his way to Navu, a 
place two miles above this. A boat accompanied him 
from the bark, for the purpose of establishing a " beech 
demer" house at that place. 

3. Yesterday a grand Solavu was held at Vesonga. 
The Geer people brought sail mats, which were ex- 
changed for yams. When the natives hold a Solavu, 
they take great pains in decorating their persons. A 
necklace of whale's teeth is the favorite ornament for the 
neck, but all are not able to procure them; therefore 
some wear one of shells, others of human teeth, and some 
wear beads. The barbers have full employment for sev- 
eral days previous, in dressing heads, which are orna- 
mented according to their different tastes. Bone brace- 
lets are worn on the arms, and their faces are usually 
painted black, or so disguised that one is not known from 
another. This is probably done that they may not be 
recognized, should there be any treachery going on at 
the time, as is often the case. When the parties meet, 
which is generally in some open space called the " vara," 
the riches belonging to each are deposited in huge piles 
on two sides of the " rara," food is placed in the centre, 
and the visitors are feasted with great abundance, and 
carry away with them what is left. The entertainers do 
not partake of the feast with their guests. When the 
riches are exchanged, a great many fine speeches are 
made by the officers of both parties. A great deal of 
love is expressed, and one would suppose that no enmity 
could ever find a place in such affectionate hearts. After 
the feasting and speeches are ended, dancing commen- 



Lot 



100 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ces. Each party engage in their several dances by 
themselves. Their fears of each other, form a barrier 
between them. It is not always that riches are ex- 
changed at " Solavus." Sometimes presents are made, 
and the people are feasted to discharge some former ob- 
ligation, as was the case with Bau and Somosomo, and 
sometimes one tribe visit another, and carry riches, but 
receive no return at the time, although they are always 
feasted, and, some time after, the visit is returned in the 
same manner. A feast of any description is called a 
" Solavu." 

7. One of our crew inquired if I would purchase a 
servant, a native woman that was to be killed at Vesonga 
to-night. On inquiry, I learned the following particulars: 
— A man who belonged to the Charles Wirgman, of Sa- 
lem, had brought the woman from some distant coast, 
and while the brig lay here, she ran away from her 
keeper to Vesonga, where she had remained ever since. 
Yesterday the Marama became angry with her for some 
offence, and threatened punishment. The girl attempted 
to run away, but was caught and brought to the town. 
The "Marama" attempted to take off her dress, or 
"leku." When this is done, it is like passing sentence 
of death upon the victim; but the man who had returned 
the offender, caught her away, saying, " Do not do that." 
The angry "Marama" replied, " Tie her, and to-night 
she shall die." A musket was sent on shore with an 
order for Harry to buy the offending woman, and send 
her on board, where she might serve me till I had an 
opportunity to send her home. 

8. Harry came off, and said that he had made it all 
right with the " Marama ," and the woman was safe. In 
the afternoon, a large double canoe came alongside, with 
at least two hundred men in it. It was commanded by 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 101 

Korovakaturaga, a chief of some note in these parts. I 
thought I saw a little expression of anxiety on the coun- 
tenance of my husband, and a manifest relief when they 
departed. 

10. I learn that Harry told the " Marama " on shore, 
that the Marama-lavu on board the " waqa lavu" had 
heard that she had given orders to club a woman, and 
that she was very much ashamed for her. " Go and tell 
the Marama-lavu that my anger is over now, and the 
woman shall receive no harm," she replied. He then 
told the girl that Capt. Wallis had sent a musket to buy 
her for one of his people. She told him that he did not say 
what was true, for no Feejeean women were allowed on 
board the "waqa lavu." He showed her the musket, 
and said, " What I tell you is true; therefore go not 
near the vessel, or you will be detained for one of his 
men." The girl appeared to dread this more than death. 
Her experience while a captive on board the brig, must 
have been a painful one. 1 know not what are the mo- 
tives of Harry, unless they are to restore her to her 
keeper, who is now living at Solavu. The woman who 
accompanies him, would not have been allowed, had not 
he and a companion named Valentine, positively declared 
that they were married. We have since learned, how- 
ever, that they are not. They do not live on board, but 
stay at some " beech de mer " house. 

We were told before we came to this place, that the 
natives were exceedingly treacherous, and we must keep 
a look out for them. I do not perceive but that they are 
as civil as any that we have seen. One day a woman 
who came on board, said, "Ah! the white men make 
gods of their wives." " Yes," said her husband, "the 
white women are wise, but Feejeean women are fool- 
ish." The man could not perceive any foolishness in 



102 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

himself. Thus it is, I thought, you are true to your 
kind, and had you your periodicals, we should see chap- 
ter after chapter headed, " Advice to women," as with 
us. We are told that we must always meet our hus- 
band at the door with a smile, take his hat and cane, and 
see that the best chair is ready for him (although it may 
be occupied by an aged or infirm parent), with his slip- 
pers near it. If he is cold, we must have a good fire to 
warm him; if he is warm, a fan to cool him; if he frowns, 
we must smile; if he is angry, we must look pleased; if 
he is in a passion, we must look delighted; and sundry 
other wise suggestions to strengthen and fortify our 
minds, that we may be good, and bear all the infirmities 
of our " lords " with patience. For all this I am truly 
grateful, and, with all due humility, would confess that 
we need "line upon line, and precept upon precept." 
But why, I would ask, is the one thing done and the 
other left undone? Does perfection dwell with man? or 
is his mind rendered impervious to improvement by his 
own sense of superiority? I believe that man has his 
part to act in the domestic relations of life, independent 
of his duty of supplying the means for support. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Intelligence from Bau — The Frolic of the White Men— Burning of the 
" beech de mer" House — Murder of the King of Mathuata — A Story — 
Ingratitude — The Rescue. 

Aug. 7. Tommy brings us accounts from the city, 
that Revelete has been killed by his brother Thakombau. 
When we left Vewa, or very soon after we left, Revelete 
went to Somosomo, where he remained about three 
months. During his absence, Thakombau received in- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 103 

telligence that his brother had for a long time been en- 
gaged in a u vere* " against himself. He informed his 
father of the reports, who said, (l When he returns from 
Somosomo, let him be killed." Thakombau was well 
convinced that the report was true. Verani was one of 
the informants, through a man that he had engaged to 
watch and protect the life of Thakombau. He became 
acquainted with the " vere," in the following manner: — 
When the expedition went to Ba on Capt. HartwelPs 
account, he overheard Revelete and Navinde talking over 
the affair; he did not listen long, but went on the deck 
of the Gambia (on board of which vessel they were at 
the time), and sent a man whom he could trust, to listen 
to their words. I cannot learn whether Navinde was 
one of the party of Revelete, or whether the latter was 
telling the former his plans, and inviting Navinde to join 
him. The subsequent conduct of the Lasakau chief, 
however, appears to evince his innocence. The man 
who had been employed by Verani to listen to the con- 
versation of the conspirators, returned to the deck, and 
said that the " vere " was to murder Thakombau, Verani 
and one other, when Revelete was to be king of Bau. 

On their return to Bau, Verani sent his trusty man to 
watch Thakombau, and see that no harm came to him. 
The inhabitants of the city greatly wondered why that 
Vewa man was always in attendance upon Thakombau. 
The chief, too, was surprised, and at length the man told 
him that there was a " vere " to kill him, and Verani had 
sent him to watch for his safety. The chief did not be- 
lieve the story, and the informant was dismissed. 

After Revelete's departure, Navinde told Thakombau 
all about it, and the chief promised the Lasakau his sis- 
ter for a wife. After this, he received information from 

*A plot. 



104 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

another authentic source, and he was then fully con- 
vinced of his brother's guilt, told his father, and the sen- 
tence had gone forth that the offending son and brother 
must die. 

Revelete received warning of his approaching fate, 
and was advised to remain in Somosomo or go to 
Rewa. He persisted in returning to Bau. On his ar- 
rival he went first to see his father, who received him 
pleasantly and said, " Stop, my son, and drink yang- 
gona with me." "No," said the son, " I am hungry, 
and will go to my own house and get food." He was 
always accompanied by a young man named Salem. 
They had been companions from childhood, and loved 
each other much. When Revelete and Salem left the 
house of the king, they met Thakombau, who imme- 
diately caught his brother by both arms, and held him, 
saying to Salem, "Kill him." Salem refused to obey. 
"Ah, "said Thakombau, " I know where you are." Reve- 
lete affectionately leaned his head on his brother's bosom, 
and said, " Do not kill me, my brother." "I must, I 
cannot save you ; you intended to kill me," said the 
chief. " No," said Revelete, "I never did intend harm 
to you; my enemies have told you lies. Let me live, 
I am your friend." 

Just as the above words were uttered, the voice of 
the old king was heard, crying, "Kill him, why do you 
not kill him at once?" Thakombau then gave the order, 
and one standing near quickly obeyed. Revelete was 
clubbed, but not killed with the blows, and was thrown 
into a hole still breathing, and some earth was thrown 
over the throbbing body. The feet were unburied, and 
were seen to move for some time after. 

Salem went to his house and said, "My friend is 
killed, and soon they will come to choke me; therefore, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 105 

make haste and prepare my body, that I may be ready 
when they come and that no time may be lost, for I am 
in haste to rejoin the friend I love." His friends paint- 
ed and decorated his body for the grave, prepared the 
M iva ni kuna," and then sent word to Thakombau that 
all was ready. On the arrival of the chief, Salem said, 
" Is it true that my friend sought to kill you?" " How 
many were in the vere, and who are they?" inquired 
Thakombau. " Namosimalua and his son, Masapai, the 
chief of Namara, the two Lasakau chiefs, and two chiefs 
of Soso," was the reply; (l and you are not safe till they 
are killed." The conference ended, the fatal cord was 
tightened, and the spirits of the friends were reunited, — 
who shall say where? 

Thakombau passed a house that had belonged to his 
brother on his return to his own, and the voice of the 
girl that had been stolen from Nalela was heard lament- 
ing the death of Revelete. " Ah," he exclaimed, " you 
had better save your tears for your father, who will go 
soon." It will be remembered that she was the adopted 
child of Namosimalua. 

8. Another item of news brought by Tommy was 
that a schooner had been sent to the island from Tahiti, 
loaded with rum, and the white men of Vewa (of course 
I do not include missionaries, even when I say white 
men. I mean a different class of persons, and always 
speak of missionaries with their distinctive title,) had a 
grand "drunken frolic." It commenced on Saturday 
evening, and they were in a bad trim for the Sabbath. 
When the bell rung, they went staggering off to meet- 
ing, filled with unholy spiritual influences. After they 
had entered the room, it was some time before they 
could get seated to their minds; one tipped his neighbor 
from the end of the seat to the floor; and another, not 



106 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

readily perceiving a chair, yet having some indistinct 
notion that he could find a seat some where near, pitch- 
ed over it. At length they were all seated after a fash- 
ion, and sat reeling to and fro, with their heads nodding, 
not like the plume of the warrior, nor like the graceful 
willow which is gently swayed by the breezes of heaven; 
Oh, no, not like these; but like one of those images that 
is placed sometimes in our open fields at home, to fright- 
en mischievous birds from the new planted grain. Dur- 
ing the prayer they behaved tolerably well, with the ex- 
ception of uttering a loud groan now and then. But 
when the sermon commenced — then was the time! As 
the preacher went on, each seemed moved to say some- 
thing. One said, "Ah, yes, sir, we all deserve to go 
to hell;" — another, "Oh, yes, we must go to hell;" — 
a third, "Sir, you tell us the truth;" — a fourth, "No, 
we shall never get to heaven unless we repent," and so 
on through the whole. At length one rose from his seat, 
and staggering towards the table where the preacher 
stood, and moving his hands one over the other, as we 
sometimes see a boy who is about to strike another, he 
stammered, " Now, — now, — sir, — I, — I, — think, — that, 
— that." When he had got thus far in his speech, one of 
his two nether limbs became lighter than its companion, 
tipped up, and causing the speaker to lose his balance, 
he was laid sprawling on the floor. This ceremony end- 
ed the meeting, and the congregation was dismissed. 

Such are some of the scenes enacted by the white 
heathen of the South Seas. Every means is used by this 
class of persons to destroy the influence of missionaries. 
Some person comes along, perhaps, who is capable of 
preparing a book. He avoids all intercourse with the 
missionaries, collects all his information from "prison 
birds " and deserters, then goes home and publishes to 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 107 

the world how little good is accomplished by the mission- 
ary among the heathen, giving long accounts of what he 
witnessed among those who had become degraded by 
their intercourse with Christians. There is such an art- 
ful mingling in these narratives, of the two classes, — the 
missionary and the white residents, — that the general 
and unreflecting reader sees no difference; and feels al- 
most insulted when he is asked to contribute something 
for the support of a mission. 

After the drunkards were dismissed, they resumed 
their potations, and became so uproarious and dangerous 
that the chiefs commanded some of the natives to tie 
them, which was done, and they were kept in that situa- 
tion till they became sober. 

11. About ten o'clock last night a bright light was 
seen in the direction of the " beech de mer" house at 
Kutu. A boat was immediately sent to the place, which 
returned with the intelligence that several native houses 
had been burned; but the " beech de mer" house was 
safe. It seems that two natives had a quarrel yesterday. 
The one who struck the other with an axe first, was soon 
after taken to the town and shot. The friends of the 
murdered man revenged themselves by burning houses. 
The cause of the affray was jealousy. 

21. As Mr. W. and myself were quietly seated in the 
cabin last evening, we were suddently startled by a 
noise resembling the discharge of a large volley of mus- 
ketry. We rushed to the deck, Mr. W. exclaiming, 
"The ' beech de mer ' house is on fire." On reaching 
the deck, a truly splendid sight met our eyes, but griev- 
ed our hearts. Fires of this kind have become exceed- 
ingly common, — this being the sixth house that has been 
burned during this voyage. 

22. A boat was sent to Kutu with orders to take all 



108 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

on board which belonged to the bark, and set fire to the 
house. Another boat was sent to Yanganga with similar 
orders. As soon as the blaze of the Kutu house was 
seen at Tavea, Natemba came off to inquire about h\ 
Mr. W. said, " You have burned my house here. You 
have made a fool of me, and I am very angry. I sent 
to have the Kutu house burned, and soon you will see 
the fires of the Yanganga house. I shall leave the place 
when the boats return." Natemba replied that he w r as 
very angry about the burning of the house, and that 
he had told the people on shore that no vessels would 
come here to trade if they conducted in this way. He 
did not know who burned the house, but supposed it was 
done by the orders of a jealous chief at Tavea. He 
begged that his canoe, with his brother, might be sent at 
once to Yanganga to countermand the orders for burning 
the house, and said that he would go there and fish. 
The anger of Mr. W. was somewhat appeased, and he 
consented. 

26. Namosimalua is yet among the living, and has 
called to see us on his return from Raverave to Bau, 
where he has been to take whales' teeth from the chiefs 
of Bau to induce Retova to join them in a contemplated 
hostile attack upon Natawa. 

Namosimalua gave us the following history of the 
doings at Raverave r — It appears that for some months 
past Retova has frequently sent messages to his uncle, 
the exiled king, urging him to make peace, saying, 
"You are an old man, my father. Let our enmity be 
ended. I will be as a loving son to you. Return to 
your own lands. I will build you houses. Bring your 
wives and all your riches, and we will live in peace; 
and when your days are ended, you shall be buried on 
the island that you love. 5, The king was in reality sin- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 109 

cerely desirous of peace. He was an exile from the land 
of his birth, and his heart was ever turning towards it; 
but his past experience of the treacherous character of 
Retova rendered him fearful, and for a long time very 
cautious. At length he yielded to the affectionate im- 
portunities of his relative, and taking twelve of his old 
and trusty friends, he left Muta for Raverave. On his 
way he stopped at Kandavu, and sent its chief to Rave- 
rave to see how the "wind blew," and whether its 
breezes appeared favorable or not. Tomorau-ni-waqa, 
the chief, returned, and said that Retova appeared to be 
sincere, and he thought the king could go in safety. 
The party then proceeded to Raverave, where its chief 
received them with delight, and feasted them abundantly. 
They remained there two days, and all the ceremonies 
appertaining to the ratification of peace between the 
chiefs had been performed. Retova had shown his uncle 
the preparations which he had made for his house, to be 
built on the island of Mathuata, which pleased the old 
man much. " In two moons your house shall be ready, " 
said Retova. " In two moons I will come with my wo- 
men and live in it," said the happy king. 

All was joy and hilarity in Raverave at the recon- 
ciliation of the Turaga-lavus. The old people looked 
pleased and happy, and the young chanted their songs 
in gleeful mirth. 

On the morning of the third day of this delightful visit, 
the sun shone brightly over the hills, and the king said 
that he must depart early, that he might rest at noon. 
The yanggona was already prepared in the " huri," and 
Tuimathuata, Retova and Koravakaturaga entered to par 
take of the parting " cup," while the followers of the 
king remained without, in company with Ratanga and 
many others. They had not been long in the " buri," 



110 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

when Koravakaturaga was seen advancing towards the 
king, with a raised club in his hand. The king observed 
him and said, " What are you about to do?" " To 
murder the king," was the reply; and in a few moments 
the king was a breathless corpse, 

Ratanga was on the watch, and as soon as the first 
blow was struck in the " twrt," he gave the signal, and all 
the followers of the king were inhumanly butchered except 
one, who fled and hid himself till night, then walked to 
Kandavu, and entering the house of the chief, awoke him, 
and while the tears rolled over his face, related the 
sad occurrences of the morning. "Remain not here," 
said the chief; "I cannot save your life; fly while it is 
yet dark, and no one can see you." The old man did not 
heed the advice, probably knowing that if he attempted 
flight, he would be discovered and murdered before he 
could reach a friendly town. He went to a " buri," 
where he was discovered the next morning by Retova's 
barber, murdered, and sent to Raverave by noon, where 
his body was cooked with those of his companions, and 
portions of it sent round to different towns as choice bits. 

Thus Retova has accomplished his desires without im- 
proving the political condition of this coast. The king 
has left a son, called Mbata, a favorite child, as he has 
always been faithful to his father. He is of no rank, as 
his mother is a poor woman; but the king having no 
other son, and Mbata being one possessing superior abil- 
ities, he has made himself something. 

The treacherous murder of the king will arouse all 
the revengeful feelings of his party, and headed by the 
son, they will continually harass their enemy, till Re- 
tova or Mbata dies. 

It is highly probable, too, that Retova will gain an 
enemy in the person of Koravakaturaga. They have been 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 111 

great friends for some time, but their participation in the 
murder is likely to cause fear in both parties, and that 
will probably lead to enmity. 

27. Harry, the man whom Mr. W. dismissed a short 
time since, has arrived in his boat, accompanied by three 
others, who are on their way round the land to buy tor- 
toise shell. 

A man, named William Russell, was discharged from 
the bark to join the boat, and a black man, named John- 
son, was received in his room. After the boat had de- 
parted, Mr. W. was informed that Harry and George 
Runnells, who accompanied him, intended to go to Ve- 
songa, and put the chief in irons, and keep him confined 
until the girl, whom I had wished to liberate while we 
were there, should be restored to her purchaser and 
master. 

If such are their intentions, Harry had better not 
sleep on his watch, as he did at Jekombea. If he 
had been faithful at that time, when taking his turn to 
watch for the safety of the boat, no lives or property would 
have been lost. He is generally disliked by the natives, 
and it becomes him to " keep a bright eye to the wind- 
ward." 

28. " He that diggeth a pit for another, shall surely 
fall therein." These are the words of my text, and if I 
do not preach a sermon to illustrate it, I will tell a story 
that will show its truth. 

I have learned to-day from Mr. W. the following his- 
tory of the origin of the war between Tuimathuata and 
his nephew. The king had from his birth lived on a 
small island, called Mathuata, situated quite near the 
main land. His son, Mbata, who is exceedingly ambi- 
tious, gained a great influence over the mind of the king 
as the latter became old. Retova, and a brother of 



112 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

equal rank with himself, resided on the main land quite 
near his uncle. As the king advanced in years, his son 
having no rank by birth, the young chiefs, Retova and 
Ngenge, acquired influence among their tribes, and almost 
entirely monopolized the trade with foreign vessels. 
This raised the jealousy of the king and his son. Mbata 
told his father that his cousins treated him like a " kaise," 
and urged him to have them killed, saying, "Then, my 
father, you will be the only Turaga-lavu of these lands, 
and I shall be the second chief." Mbata well knew that 
if he could accomplish this design, in the absence of any 
other chiefs, he would be head, as he already ruled his 
father. 

It is sometimes the case in Feejee that, like the victo- 
rious chanticleer of the barn-yard, the strongest will bear 
rule in spite of all the disadvantages of low birth. Tui- 
mathuata hearkened to his son, and orders were given to 
murder the young chiefs. Ngenge was killed, and Retova 
fled to Raverave, where he was protected. 

For some time previous to these events, Bau had 
tried in vain to make Mathuata tributary to its chiefs; 
but the Mathuata chiefs, when united, were strong; di- 
vided, they fell. The king was old, his son not acknow- 
ledged as a chief, Ngenge was killed, and Retova im- 
prisoned, or what amounted to the same. 

Soon after the murder of Ngenge, Verani came to Le- 
kutu, and Retova sent to request his assistance. Verani 
immediately departed for Bau, and collected a fleet of 
canoes, well manned. As they came down the coast 
they were joined by many of the subjects of the old king, 
as well as those who were favorable to Retova. 

On their arrival at Raverave, Retova joined the fleet, 
and sailed for the island of Mathuata, intending to set 
fire to the town and massacre the inhabitants. They 



LIFEINFEEJEE. 113 

were, however, hindered by a head wind, and did not 
reach the islands in time, as the birds, both old and 
young, had forsaken their nests, and flown to more 
genial climes. As Raverave is in sight of Mathuata, the 
canoes had been seen in time for the islanders to make 
their escape during the night, and they reached Muta, 
an inland town on Vanualavu, in safety, where they have 
resided ever since. 

The disappointed warriors set fire to the town, and 
passed on, carrying desolation and death, for the space 
of sixty miles, to all who refused to join them. Thus, 
taking advantage of the times, the people of Bau accom- 
plished their long desired purposes, and this coast has 
since paid tribute to its haughty chiefs. 

29. I have been informed to-day that Namosimalua 
appeared to be retracing his steps to heathenism. The 
following story shows that he is not advancing in Chris- 
tianity. 

In the year 1843, a brother of Verani was murdered 
by some of the murder-loving men of Feejee. Soon after I 
leftVewa, intelligence was received there, that nine men 
belonging to the tribe who committed the murder, were 
at Ovalau. A younger brother of Verani said, " Who 
will go and revenge the death of our brother ? Verani 
has ' Joined,' — he will not; there is none but me left, 
and I must perform the deed." Namosimalua gave him. 
canoes and men, with which he sailed for Ovalau, where 
he executed his fell purpose, and returned, bringing with? 
him the dead bodies. 

The whole affair had been kept secret from the mis- 
sionaries till the arrival of the canoes bearing the dead. 
Namosi had given strict orders for the canoes to go to 
Bau, that the missionaries might not know that he had any 
8 



114 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

hand in the murder. When he perceived the refractory 
canoes sailing direct for Vewa, he appeared greatly 
troubled, and was seen on the hill, waving his hand to 
them in the direction of Bau, but all to no purpose. 
On, — on they would and did come, till they arrived at 
Vewa's shores, where they were greeted with every 
demonstration of joy by the Lasakau widow. She waved 
on high an ornament that had belonged to the deceased 
relative, then burning it on one of the bodies, said, 
" Now is our brother revenged." As soon as the mis- 
sionaries heard of the affair, they sent them away. They 
carried the dead men to Bau, where, as is their custom, 
they were devoured. What a record are the annals of 
Feejee! 

30. The boat, Star, belonging to the bark, has just 
returned from Raverave, by which we learn that Retova 
is going to carry a blessing to his cousin, Mbata, in the 
shape of muskets and powder ; or, in other words, he is 
going to fight the inhabitants of Muta. Andrew asked 
Retova why he killed the king. "Oh," he replied, "I 
had him killed Feejee fashion. It will be my turn next. 
Bau has sent for me to go to Natawa; perhaps that is a 
1 vere ' to kill me." If this people feared death, they 
would never enjoy life. 

Sept. 6. Our schooner arrived from the windward 
isles with forty peculs offish and a sick man, — an Amer- 
ican sailor, — who was injured some four years since by a 
whale, and has been a cripple ever since. The schooner 
brought him from Lakemba, where he had been taken 
care of by Rev. Messrs. Lyth and Calvert, English 
Wesleyan missionaries, who had supplied him with food, 
clothing, medicines and gospel instruction. The Wes- 
leyans, who are stationed at Feejee, never make any 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 115 

distinctions of country, — an Englishman is never favored 
by them because he is an Englishman. 

While I resided at Vewa there came to the place a 
deserter, who was prowling about for some time, to the 
terror of the native women, whom he continually insulted. 
At length he was taken sick with the dysentery, and 
there was no one to take him in. Mr. Hunt provided a 
house for him, with some one to be with him, sent or 
carried him suitable nourishment, and attended himself 
to preparing and administering his medicines. For 
many days the man was not expected to live. Unexpect- 
edly, however, the disorder took a favorable turn, and 
he slowly recovered. During his convalescence he was 
constantly supplied with suitable food from the table of 
the missionary. While he was sick, he appeared very 
humble and grateful. On his recovery, he came to thank 
Mr. and Mrs. Hunt for their kindness. I was present, 
and witnessed the grateful outpourings of his heart, — no, 
not his heart, for sin had consumed that before his sick- 
ness ; — but I listened to his grateful words. " You have 
saved my life, sir. You have served me like a brother. 
I can never pay you. I think I shall be a better man in 
future. May God forever bless you!" As he conversed, 
a flock of little hot crocodiles jumped from his eyes, and 
tumbled over his thin, pale face, to the floor. I began 
to think that I would cry a little, but 1 looked at Mr. 
Hunt, and found that he was not in a crying mood, (he 
had seen too many such scenes,) so I concluded to defer 
it, fearing that I might cry in the wrong place. 

Three or four days after this scene took place, a fine 
brood of eight English ducks were missing from the 
premises of Mr. Hunt. There was a vessel at anchor- 
off Vewa at the time, and Mr. Hunt was informed that 
the grateful man and the ducks were both on board. 



116 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Mr. H. wrote a note to the captain, who, in reply, said 
that the man brought the ducks to him to sell, saying 
that they belonged to him, that he had paid for them; 
and he engaged the man, as a sailor, to serve on board 
his vessel. 

" Such instances of ingratitude are enough to discour- 
age any one," I said to Mr. Hunt, when I heard about 
the stolen ducks, "Ah!" he replied, "with that we 
have nothing to do. If he was again in the same situ- 
ation in which I found him, I should act towards him as 
I did before. His ingratitude cannot destroy our peace 
of mind, flowing from a consciousness of having done our 
duty." He then related the following little incident, 
which occurred soon after he came to Vewa. A white 
man was brought to this place as sick as the one you 
saw, but he was a long time recovering. We paid 
him every needed attention, and on his recovery he 
appeared exceedingly grateful, but said he had nothing 
to pay me for the attention which he had received. 
His language was so affecting that I wept. As the man 
left me he said, " You have a teacher near the place 
where I live; and when the yams come in, I have a 
great many due me, and will give your teacher two thou- 
sand." "Very well," I said, "do so if you have 
enough." In due time the yams were presented, and in 
about a year a bill was sent, requesting me to pay for 
the two thousand yams. I sent word that he had adopt- 
ed a good plan, — that of keeping accounts of debt and 
credit, — and as soon as I had time to make out his bill, 
for board and medical attendance, we would settle our 
little affair. Nothing more was heard of it. 

7. We are now lying at anchor off the island of 
Yanganga, which has its tale of interest, to my mind at 
least. But to relate it, I must " begin at the beginning," 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 117 

and go as far back as the year 1835, when Mr. W. visit- 
ed this coast as chief mate and trading officer of a Salem 
brig. On their arrival at Mathuata, they were joined by 
another brig from the same place. On board the latter 
was a man of age and experience, one who pos- 
sessed the confidence of his employers and associates, 
and acted as trading officer for the vessel. Mr. W. had 
had two years' experience in the Feejee trade, but he and 
his counsel were set at nought by the trio; viz., the two 
captains and the trading master. One, if not both of the 
captains, had never been here before, consequently, they 
were entirely ignorant of the business, and gave its man- 
agement to the elder trading master, deeming the young- 
er quite too ignorant to take any part in their affairs. 
When the vessels joined company, Mr. W. remarked 
that if they kept separate, and fished at different places, 
it would be better for both. The remark was treated 
with contempt. 

While the vessels were at Mathuata, the chiefs talk- 
ed about holding a great " Solavu." If this was done, 
it would greatly hinder the voyage, and the trio con- 
sulted how to prevent it at that time, and how to keep 
the natives from leaving the fishing. "I will tell you 
how it can be done," said the trading master. "Take 
Retova and Ngenge and put them in irons on board the 
vessels; they will not hold their feast without their chiefs, 
and our business will not be interrupted." When Mr. 
W. heard of the plan, he said, " If you proceed thus, it 
will be the ruin of your voyages." "When we want 
your advice, we will ask it," replied his captain. 
"Thank you, sir," was the answer. In pursuance of 
the foregoing plan, the chiefs were put in irons; one on 
board each vessel. This did not greatly offend the king 
and his son, who had even then become jealous of the 



118 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

influence of his nephews. The plan of imprisoning the 
chiefs, however, proved a failure. The natives all left 
off fishing and held their " Solavu." When this termi- 
nated, they left off fishing. " Why do you not make 
your people fish?" the prisoners were asked. " Be- 
cause they are now their own masters. They know that 
we are prisoners, and we have no authority over them 
until we gain our liberty," they replied. The trio were 
now in a dilemma. They dared not set their prisoners 
at liberty, as they feared their revenge, yet they gained 
nothing by their detention. Thus they were idle for 
about six weeks, hoping that the natives would be in- 
duced to go on. The king exerted no authority, as he 
had been displeased with the previous arrangements. 

On the arrival of the second vessel at Mathuata, the 
king said, " Ngenge and Retova are fishing for the other 
brig; my son and myself will go up the coast with the 
last arrived vessel, and load her in a short time. This 
plan, it has been seen, w 7 as not executed, as the trading 
master would not consent to the separation of the vessels, 
— being actuated, no doubt, either by fear or jealousy. 
At last the natives declared that there was no fish on the 
reefs (although many cargoes have been collected from 
the same since,) and the vessels left Mathuata for Yan- 
ganga. The king followed with canoes and men. There 
were at that time no inhabitants on the island, and the 
king erected temporary dwellings, where he lived with 
his people, and engaged in fishing. Retova and Ngenge, 
although chiefs, were subjects of the king, and so were 
their tribes; and the king, having a purpose to execute, 
exerted his authority in commanding all whom he chose, 
to go and fish. " Beech de mer " was plenty, and affairs 
went on prosperously for a time. 

We will now reveal the plans of the king. He de- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 119 

sired to accomplish the death of the two chiefs, whom 
he considered as his rivals. He knew that they had an 
enemy in the person of a chief, named Logi, — a rela- 
tive of Tuimbua. By removing to Yanganga he could 
communicate without suspicion with Logi, and they might 
devise together some means for the destruction of his 
nephews. 

After they had fished for awhile, Logi came to visit 
the king, and they had a long conference together; 
after which, the king went home to Mathuata. After his 
departure, several natives came to the " beech de mer " 
house, and sold to Mr. W. (who had charge of the 
house, and lived there with one other white man,) wood, 
mats, and several articles for a trifle, — much less than 
they had been in the habit of doing, and then left the 
island. This excited some suspicion at first, but they 
finally concluded that the natives were tired of work, 
and had gone to rest a little. In the afternoon natives 
came in from the reefs, sold their fish, and instead of 
dispersing, as usual, remained in little companies, whis- 
pering together. It was observed that they were armed. 
All these appearances foretold evil doings. It was near- 
ly dark when a native came and told Mr. W. and his 
companion that during the evening the trade house was 
to be set on fire, and they were both to be killed. What 
was to be done! It was then near the time set for their 
destruction. It was true, there was another i( beech de 
mer 55 house on the other side of the island, in view of 
the vessels, but how were they to reach it unobserved? 
Numbers of armed natives were collected even then. 
Mr. W. took a pistol in his hand, and went into the 
" beech de mer " house. About fifty were assembled 
there with clubs and spears. On his return to the trade 
house, a native followed him with a heavy club in his 



120 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

hand; he turned, and showing the loaded pistol, threat- 
ened to blow the man's brains out, if he did not leave 
him. He looked around and observed natives stationed 
about in such a manner as rendered it impossible for 
them to escape. He returned in despair to the trade 
house, and told his companion that they must die; for 
there was no possible way of escaping the vigilance of 
their murderers. They sat a moment, when Mr. W. said 
"No; these cursed cannibals shall never feed upon this 
body. Here are two kegs of powder,— here is fire, — and 
here is a shovel. As soon as they set fire to the house, 
— which will be at the end opposite, — I will throw fire 
out of the door and powder after it; we must lie flat till 
the explosion; we may be saved, and we may be blown 
to atoms, — better the latter than to be eaten. They 
knocked the beads from the powder kegs, and placed 
them near the door. Mr. W. sat holding the shovel in 
his hand, feeling a desire, like Samson, that many should 
die with him, if such was to be his fate. They had not 
sat long after their few preparations were completed, be- 
fore they heard the sound of oars. " 'Tis the boat! 'tis 
the boat!" they both exclaimed. " Sa lako mai ni vals y 
m kai papalagi sagela m vere^ shouted the flying Fee- 
jeeans. "The boat is corning, and the white men un- 
derstand our plot." 

Mr. W. and his companion sprung from* the house, 
leaped over several wood-piles some five feet high, and 
reached the boat in safety. Here we see a grand exhi- 
bition of Feejeean bravery! There were on the island 
some two hundred natives, who had assembled to kill 
two men. When the boat came in sight, they knew that 
it could scarcely contain more than four or five, and 
nothing could have been easier than for a part of their 
number to have placed themselves in ambush, and, on 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 121 

the arrival of the boat, to have despatched its crew, 
while the others could have murdered those in the house. 
But thanks to an overruling Providence and the native 
cowardice for the preservation of my husband's life ! 

It seems that when Logi visited Tuimathuata, they 
formed the following plan: — On a given night the natives 
were to set the " beech de mer" house on fire that was 
situated in view of the vessels; and when the light of the 
fire was seen by the natives on the other side of the 
island, they were to set fire to the opposite end of the 
trade house from the door, and as Mr. W. and his com- 
panion rushed out, they were to be murdered, and the 
other " beech de mer" house set on fire. By this means 
they were, as they thought, to secure their ends; name- 
ly, have Retova and Ngenge killed. As soon as the blaze 
of the burning house was seen on board the vessels, a 
boat was sent to the island, which took the white man 
and some natives to the vessel where Retova was con- 
fined, and where the trio had assembled for a social 
smoke and chat. 

The natives were questioned as to their purpose in 
burning the house. They said it was to serve as a sig- 
nal for burning the other house and killing Mr. Wallis, 
which would probably have been done. As nothing was 
said by the trio about sending a boat to ascertain the 
fate of Mr. W., a man named Rogers, who was then a 
sailor, and is now a respectable resident at Feejee, in- 
quired whether a boat was not to be sent round the 
island to ascertain the truth, saying that it was possible 
Mr. W. and his companion might be saved. " Send a 
boat!" exclaimed the worthy trading master, " No; what 
is the use of sending for dead men? who would go?" 
"I," said the undaunted Rogers; "and I," said ano- 
ther,— " and I,"— "and I 3 "— " and I," said others, 



122 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

" Well, go and be d d," replied the trading master. 

The intrepid sailors sailed to the island in time to rescue 
two human beings from their perilous situation. The 
life of one is exceedingly precious to the writer of these 
pages, and she will ever be grateful to the sailors who 
were instrumental in saving it. 

The natives, from some unknown cause, did not per- 
ceive the light from the burning house, which was to 
have been their signal; hence their delay till the ar- 
rival of the boat. 

It appears to have been the design of the king at this 
time, only to compass the destruction of his nephews, 
but, failing in this, his canoes and men were withdrawn, 
and the fishing again stopped. At length the trio liber- 
ated Retova, who procured a chief, named Ndury, to 
take his place. Retova went to Mathuata, and soon re- 
turned with a few canoes, but it was mere play, and evi- 
dent that they did not mean to do much for the vessels. 
While they were thus hesitating, someBau canoes came 
to the coast. The chiefs of Bau had heard of the deten- 
tion of the young chiefs, and determined to liberate them. 
On their arrival they told the trio that they had better 
set the chiefs at liberty, that they would look out for the 
safety of the vessels, and would send for the Lasakau 
people, that all would join in fishing, and soon load both 
vessels. The chiefs were liberated, and they commenced 
building houses with a prospect of procuring a cargo or 
cargoes. Mr. W. went to a house on Vanualavu, at a 
place called Tamburua. Here the natives worked well 
for a little time, when Mr. W. and Mr. Brotherton, who 
was with him, received information that that house was 
to be burned. He informed his captain, and asked if the 
fish had not better be taken to the vessel. The gentle- 
man laughed at his fears, as he was pleased to term 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 123 

them, assured Mr. W. that there was no danger, and 
added, "We still have a hostage on board; if they kill 
you, we should kill him." There was in this assurance 
enough to nerve any man with courage, but Mr. W. was 
probably too " ignorant" to benefit by it, for he answer- 
ed, (i A Feejeean head will not suit my shoulders." The 
captain did not think of this I presume, nor the consola- 
tion that it would impart to mourning relatives at home 
on being told that a couple of cannibals had lost their 
heads, as a retaliation for the loss of their friends. But to 
return to my story. Mr. W. returned to the shore feel- 
ing provoked that so little regard was paid to their safety, 
and scarcely caring whether he lived or not, feeling sick 
and tired of the doings and mismanagement which had 
been so evident during the whole voyage. 

In the evening, Mr. W., Mr. Brotherton, and a native 
were seated in the trade house, when they perceived the 
"beech de mer " house on fire, and on turning their 
heads, they found the end of the trade house opposite the 
door also in flames. They were about to make their es- 
cape through the door, when a friendly native pulled 
them back, and rushed through the thatch at the other 
end. The two followed, and reached the boat, which 
was very near. The houses are usually built quite near 
the shore, and when on board the boat, they looked 
towards the burning house and saw several natives at 
the door with raised clubs, ready to strike when they 
should appear. This ended their business on the coast. 
The Bau and Vewa people having accomplished their 
purpose of liberating the chiefs, went home, having ad- 
vanced by this means one step more towards subjecting 
Mathuata to Bau. The two vessels went about seeking 
fish, and finding none. Wherever they went, the story 
of the chiefs in irons preceded them, and the natives 



124 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

feared to have any thing to do with them. After being 
among the group for fifteen months, they left; one with 
six hundred peculs of fish, and the other with four hun- 
dred. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Missionary Intelligence — Murder of Four White Men at Navu — An Amu- 
sing Occurrence — Retova's Barber — Manufacture of Cloth — Productions 
of the Islands. 

Sept. 8. The Star has arrived from Raverave, and 
brings word that Retova went to Muta, but did no fight- 
ing. The braves were frightened, and ran home. 

18. The natives have done fishing at Yanganga, and 
we remove to Nivaka to-morrow, where there is a house 
belonging to the bark. The schooner sailed to-day for 
Natawa. 

28. After remaining at Nivaka a short time, and 
making things straight, we left for Kandavu, and arrived 
here to-day. Received a letter from Mrs. Hunt, who 
writes that religion appears to be progressing at Vewa. 
Verani has been baptized, and received the name of 
Elijah. The Lasakau widow had renounced heathenism, 
and received by baptism the name of Mary Wallis. 

Oct. 1. The Nivaka people have burnt their "beech 
de mer " house, stolen several articles, and retired from 
business. 

4. Capt. Hartwell has arrived here, and brought our 
letters from home that Capt. King detained for us four 
months. At the close of a note received by Mr. W. from 
Capt. K., he remarks, " When I bring a wife to Feejee, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 125 

she shall be blind and dumb." He should have added, 
" and deaf too." 

6. Capt. Hartwell has sailed for Bau. Korovakatu- 
ranga honored us with a visit. As the chiefs usually eat 
at the table with us, he was invited to take a seat at the 
dinner table. A seat was placed for him, and he seated 
himself very properly on it at first, but not liking his po- 
sition, he first drew up one foot on the seat, and then the 
other, which placed him in a most ludicrous position. 

10. We have just received the news that Harry, who 
left our vessel at Tavea, has been murdered, and three 
men, also, who were with him. The accounts are as 
follows : — They proceeded to Vesonga, and put the young 
chief, Otima, in irons, telling him that they should not 
liberate him till the girl belonging to Runnells was re- 
stored to him. The natives at Vesonga, on hearing of 
the affair, manned three canoes and started for the boat, 
which was anchored off some distance from the town. 
Tomorau, the murderer of the Raverave woman, took 
the girl on board his canoe, and preceding the other two, 
arrived first to the boat, when several of the natives sud- 
denly jumped on board, and disarmed Harry and his 
men. "Now," said Tomorau, "here are men enough 
to kill you all, and if you attempt any resistance we will 
do it. There is the girl, but you shall not have her. 
We will take Otima and the girl, too, back to the town. 
Leave this place, and if ever you come here again, we 
will eat you. If you fire at us when we leave the boat, 
we will kill and eat you now." He then set the cap- 
tive at liberty, and they departed. 

Harry then sailed for Navu, about two miles distant, 
where he anchored for the night, quite near the shore. 
It was Harry's first watch, and he slept. The natives 
came, waded off, and dragged the boat still nearer the 



126 LIFE IN F E E J E E . 

shore; this awaked the men, who fought for their lives, 
but were overpowered by numbers, and all but Harry 
were killed immediately. He was wounded in the leg, 
and taken ashore with the bodies of his companions. 
The next day he was obliged to witness the horrible feast, 
and listen to the praises bestowed upon the flesh of his 
friends. The next day they took off his leg, and obliged 
him to sit and see that devoured also. On the third day 
they finished him. My heart sickens while I record these 
horrible truths. 

Many think that Retova seeing the boat pass, sent or- 
ders by land for the murder. He hated Harry, and the 
natives generally appeared to have a strong feeling of 
hatred towards him. Retova has received some of the 
property that was in the boat, and his late absence up 
the coast, from which he has just returned, bringing the 
accounts of Harry's murder with him, looks as though 
he was guilty. 

The names of the killed are as follows : — Harry Ga- 
vet, England; Wm. Russell, England; Lorenzo Hamil- 
ton, New York; George Runnells, New York. 

11. The Star has arrived from Fofo, a town on Vanua 
lavu, where it had been sent to procure provisions. 
Tommy and a native of Tavea composed her crew, the 
craft being commanded by Andrew, as usual. On their 
arrival at Fofo, which is situated some distance up a 
river, Tommy and the Feejeean went on shore, while 
Andrew remained to take care of the boat. Capt. An- 
drew is a great lover of yanggona, or native grog, but 
never wishing to have the trouble of preparing it with his 
own distillery, he always employs the natives whenever 
it is possible. On this occasion, Andrew sat smoking his 
pipe on the quarter deck, when a company of gay young 
Feejeeans, of the rougher sort, appeared on the beach 






LIFE IN FEEJEE, 127 

near the boat. Andrew invited them to come on board, 
and " chaw " some grog for him. The young men cheer- 
fully complied with his request, and were soon quietly 
seated in the boat, when each distillery was set in mo- 
tion. Andrew smoked on, anticipating the delights of 
soon quaffing the delicious beverage. Ah! these were 
happy moments in Andrew's chequered life, when he sat 
on the deck of that nice little craft, with his pipe in his 
mouth, watching the smoke that so " gracefully curled," 
— he had no troubles then! 

When the grog was " chawed " and prepared, the pipe 
was laid aside, the lips were wiped and smacked, and 
the head of the man was thrust into the flowing bowl (for 
such is the custom of these happy lands). He drank, 
and drank — determined never to raise his head again, 
while there was one drop in the bowl. There he lay, 
scarcely knowing whether he was in the body or out of 
it, when the young men raised him and threw him over- 
board. What an awakening! He was surprised out of 
all his happiness, for but a moment before, he was pros- 
trate before the " flowing bowl," and now where was he? 
why, prostrate in flowing mud, which need not have sur- 
prised him; it was a natural consequence. Not being 
satisfied, however, with his present position, he climbed 
on board, when he was immediately secured to the mast, 
while the young sparks rewarded themselves for "chaw- 
ing " the grog by robbing the boat. This being done, 
they departed, leaving Andrew "alone in his glory." 
When all was still, he found means to liberate himself; 
the tide had risen, and he departed from the frolic-loving 
land. He arrived alone at the bark, looking pale and 
frightened, and we trust that he will not soon forget the 
cc chawing of the grog." 

12. The boat has gone to Fofo to see about Tommy, 



128 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

and if he is a prisoner, to liberate him if possible. Re- 
tova has not visited us since his return from Vesonga. 
He says that he is ashamed to come, because his people 
have killed the white men. Navu belongs to Korovaka- 
turanga. 

P. M. Retova has been on board and dined. He 
brought a Somosomo chief and his priest with him. He 
tells the following story of the murdered Harry. He 
says that Harry went to Muta, and Mbata agreed to pay 
him three hundred pounds of tortoise shell if he would 
get Retova to Muta; this he promised to do by decoying 
the chief on board a w^haler, when it would be easy to 
deliver him into the hands of his enemy. This story is 
only another evidence to our minds of the guilt of Retova. 

13. The Star has arrived, bringing Tommy and the 
trade that had been stolen by the " grog chaivers." The 
following is Tommy's account of his adventures, as rela- 
ted by himself: — " Come, Tommy," I said, l( I wish to 
hear what happened to you at Fofo." " Yes ma'am, 
sir," he replied. Tommy was the servant at Vewa, who 
had been told to say iC Yes ma'am," to ladies, and " Yes 
sir," to gentlemen. He never forgot his instructions, 
but applied them in his own way. 

" Well, you see ma'am sir," said Tommy, Qi that when 
I go shore to buy yams, the chief, he no be at the town. 
I send boy tell a chief to come home; Capt. Wallis he 
send boat here to buy yams and pig. Tavea man and I 
go in house, where we wait long time for chief. By and 
by man come in house, he all scared, he say Andrew 
killed. Feejeean got a boat. I feel scared too. I 
think — well, Feejee man kill Andrew, they kill me too; 
but I no let Feejee man see me fraid. I say, I go see. 
iNTo, no, said all Feejee woman; spose you go, they kill 
you; spose you stay here, they no kill. Then woman 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 129 

go on hill, come back and say, Andrew no kill, he go 
away in boat. Then chief come — me hear great cry — 
we all go out — see chief cry ver much. He say, me go 
live to nother town. You all dead man (a Feejeean 
curse), me no live with you. Mr. Wallis be angry — all 
white man be angry — no send boat to bring us riches for 
our pigs and yams. He then cry more, then load mus- 
ket and walk away, saying, I go, I no live with you. 
Then all the men and womens all make great cry, and 
say, no, no, no, don't leave us; we will ' soro,' take our 
• soro.' Then chief he set down, man he get all whale's 
teeth in the town to ' soro.' The chief then he no cry, 
but tell 'em get all he take out the boat, put it in canoe. 
Tavea man and Tom go too, and tell captain he shamed. 
So they get all the things put in canoe, tell the Fofo man 
take us Tavea. When we get Tavea we see boat coming 
after us, so we put all the thing in the boat, and come 
here." 

15. The schooner arrived, bringing ten peculs offish. 
Mr. Smith states that they were doing well, when several 
canoes came from Somosomo, and commenced hostilities 
with the Natawans, and put a stop to all farther trade. 

20. Last night, about eleven o'clock, we witnessed 
the burning of the " beech de mer" house at this place. 
A boat was sent to receive all that could be saved. 
About two hundred dollars worth of " beech de mer " was 
destroyed. 

21. We have removed our station to the island of 
Mathuata. This island was the home of the king, but it 
is now uninhabited. Houses are to be built here, and it 
is pretended that Retova will do great things in the 
££ beech de mer" way. Canoes are coming from Geer 
and Raverave to fish for the vessel. The chief of Kan- 

9 



130 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

davu is building another house so near his town that if 
one burns, the other must. 

22. Received a visit from Retova's barber, the man 
who murdered the man from Raverave at the time of the 
late slaughter at that place. He is an ugly looking, 
petty chief, of the name of Tuvutuvu. He is a great 
thief, and we are obliged to watch when he honors the 
vessel with his presence. Although it is said that the 
natives are very thievish, we have suffered but little from 
their depredations. While I was at Vewa, Mrs. Jaggar 
informed me that when they lived at Lakemba, two large 
tubs of clothes were stolen from them. When they com- 
plained to the king, he said, " I will make that all right." 
The next day they were expecting the lost clothes to be 
restored, knowing that the king possessed the power. 
About noon, the king was seen to approach with several 
attendants. He came into the house, bearing — not the 
clothes, but as a Qt soro" six nice looking fingers which 
he had had taken from the hands of the thieves. As the 
missionaries needed their clothing, and could not wear 
the fingers, this was poor consolation; yet poor as it was, 
they received no other. 

23. A petty chief, named Ndury (the same who 
was for a little while held in " durance vile " by the trio), 
is on board, and lately from Vewa, where he has a niece 
of Elijah's for a wife. He says that Elijah has lately 
had a " Solavu" for Mr. Hunt. I inquired why he had 
one for him. He said that Elijah had formerly stolen 
many pigs and chickens from the mission; he was now 
sorry and ashamed, and wished to make all the restora- 
tion in his power. This was not required by the mission- 
aries, who told him that as they hoped God had forgiven 
the past, so would they. He would not be satisfied till 
he had done what he could. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 131 

24. As I have often alluded to the " masi," or native 
cloth used by the natives, I will describe its manufacture. 
The natives cultivate a tree, called in native, (C masi- 
kau " (a kind of papyrus), from which their cloth is made. 
The trees are set out about one foot apart. When they 
have reached maturity they are about five feet high, and 
six inches in circumference. The natives then peel off 
the outside bark, which is thrown away, and carefully 
stripping the inner bark from the tree, they put it in wa- 
ter and let it remain for twelve hours; it is then spread, 
and pounded with instruments made of iron wood till it is 
thin as muslin and looks very white. Some of the cloth 
is retained in this state, and worn for head-dresses. All 
that is required for other purposes, such as bed-screens, 
and men's wear, is made stouter by placing several thick- 
nesses of muslin one upon another, while in its damp 
state. A part of the cloth is retained in its native color, 
and some of it displays the native ingenuity in painting. 
Cloth is mostly manufactured at Somosomo. It is only 
worn by men, and in very small quantities. The women 
wear " lekas," made also from the bark of some tree, but 
not resembling cloth at all. 

25. The principal and most loved article of food in 
Feejee, is yams, which are to a Feejeean what bread is 
to us. The bread-fruit, tarro and carwais are next in 
value to the yams. Of the three latter, the natives pre- 
pare what they call " mandrai," which they live upon 
when other food fails. It often occurs that a (i Solavu " 
takes all the vegetables and fruits from a town, or an 
enemy destroys their plantations; and they are then 
obliged to live upon the mandrai till their next harvest. 

At the windward part of the group, only one crop of 
yams is gathered in a year; but on the Ba coast of Vete- 
lavu, it is said that two crops are gathered in one year. 



132 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

The bread-fruit tree yields its ripe fruits in great abun- 
dance semi-annually. I know of no tree in Feejee more 
beautiful than this. It is ever green, presenting to the 
eye no decay. Its aged leaves change so gradually that 
they are scarcely ever observed, being mostly hidden by 
the verdant branches, from which is ever springing the 
beautifully scalloped leaf. There are a great many of 
these trees in Vewa. I was one day remarking upon 
their form and beauty to Mr. Hunt, who joined in my 
praises, but, after a pause, said, (i Sometimes, however, 
I tire of this evergreen, and would like to see the chang- 
ing hues of autumn. Are not your American forests 
more beautiful with all their autumnal tints?" " Our 
forests," I replied, " have their admirers, but I am not 
one of them. I do not love all that is loveable, nor do I 
admire all that is admirable. I do not love winter with 
its cold sterility — I do not love autumn with its chilly 
nights; the rustling of its dried and shrivelled leaves is 
not music to my ears — I cannot look upon our forests 
with pleasure, for they tell me of snow, and wind, hail 
and storm. Oh no; I could as soon admire the elegant 
dress of one who came to tell me that my dearest friend 
was buried in the ocean." But to return to edibles. 
During the seasons of tarro and bread-fruit, they are 
gathered, and the rind of the one, and the skin of the 
other are taken from the outside, holes are dug in the 
ground, and lined with fresh leaves. Into these holes 
the tarro, bread-fruit or carwais — whichever may be in 
its season — is placed, and covered with leaves; several 
layers of stones are then piled over the whole, where it 
remains for years if not wanted for use. When it is 
needed, portions of it are taken from the hole, and 
kneaded in a tray; small portions are then carefully 






LIFE IN FEEJEE. 133 

wrapped in the bread-fruit leaf and boiled, when they 
consider it fit for eating. 

Among their luxuries, they consider vaka-lololes one of 
the greatest; hence, no feast or Solavu is held without 
them, if they can possibly be procured. They are made 
of tarro, or bread-fruit, and grated cocoa-nut. The 
vegetable, or fruit, is boiled or roasted, then thoroughly 
washed in a tray, and made into balls about the size of a 
small hen's egg, from twenty to thirty of which are laid 
lH a large green leaf. The milk of the grated cocoa-nut 
is then sweetened with the compressed juice from the ti 
root, and poured over them; they are then tied up in the 
leaf till wanted, when they make a delicious dessert. 

Among the fruits of Feejee, are to be found the orange, 
lemon, pine-apple, banana and shaddoc, all of which are 
well known at home. Besides these is a fruit called 
ndaiva, which is about the size of a peach, and resem- 
bles a plum inside, but lacks its delicious flavor. There 
is another fruit called " kaveka," which is very beautiful 
to the eye; the form is like that of the pear, and the color 
is a beautiful red and white. A basket of this elegant 
fruit was brought here yesterday, and was the first I had 
seen. " How beautiful!" I exclaimed. " Are they to 
eat?" " Yes," was the answer. I took of the fruit and 
ate, but not finding it sweet to the taste, did not hand it 
to my husband. It is neither sour, bitter, palatable nor 
unpalatable, but appears to be composed of wind and 
water. What a fine essay might the moralist write from 
the "kaveka!" 

I must give a description of it, for although its compo- 
nent parts resemble two of the elements, there is a good 
deal of character about the beautiful "kaveka." It pos- 
sesses great beauty, but has no sweetness, and is very 



134 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

cold; it is subject to an early decay, and is never fit to 
be eaten after it has been gathered twelve hours. 

There is another fruit in this favored land, called the 
"wi." This tree resembles the pear tree in size and 
foliage; the fruit is formed like the egg of a turkey, and 
is about as large. It is of a deep golden color when 
ripe, and emits an odor precisely like that of a quince. 
It is filled with fibrous substances, which make it neces- 
sary to grate them before they are cooked; when stewed, 
they make a nice sauce, not unlike a green apple-sauce. 
One could scarcely tell them from apples, when made 
into tarts and puddings. Ginger, arrow-root, tumeric 
and tobacco are found here in great abundance. Cotton 
is found in small quantities along the coasts, but is sup- 
posed to abound in the interior. On the mountains of 
Ovalau are a few wild nutmeg trees, or shrubs. It is 
said that they abound in the interior of Vete-lavu. It 
has been shown that the natives are not backward in the 
use of manimal food; but that of other species is seldom 
used, except at their Solavus, when pigs are cooked by 
hundreds. They are sometimes " tambued" for a year 
previous to the time of a feast. Chickens are raised, but 
seldom eaten by the natives, being mostly sold to white 
residents, vessels and missionaries. The sugar-cane, 
too, should be numbered among the sweet things of Fee- 
jee. Fruitful and beautiful are these lands! But oh! 
what a moral waste! reminding one of the language of 
the excellent Heber, 

" In vain, with lavish kindness, 

The gifts of God are strewn ; 
The heathen in his blindness, 

Bows down to wood and stone." 

29. The people have begun to fish to-day at 
the Mathuata house, and are coming for their pay. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 135 

When a vessel lays near a " beech de mer" house, the 
natives often receive orders to come to the bark, when 
muskets, or any large articles are due. The following 
is a pretty good illustration of the manner in which this 
try-patience people trouble those who answer their or- 
ders. This morning a man came, bringing an order for 
a musket. One was given him, with which he appeared 
satisfied. He remained about deck awhile, when he 
found the spring too tight; this was set right. After a 
little while something else was wrong, and he wished to 
have several more muskets brought, that he might select 
for himself; this was done. An hour or more was spent 
in handling and selecting. After he had suited himself, 
and the muskets were returned to the chest, he discover- 
ed some flaw, or was not satisfied with the color of the 
barrel, and wished to select from the chest. After hand- 
ling and examining them all as long as he wished, he de- 
parted with the one that was first offered. Thus he was 
from ten in the morning till four in the afternoon decid- 
ing about his musket, which was really a good one in the 
first place. This is not a solitary case. I always dread 
to see a canoe filled with natives coming to be paid from 
the bark. One will want cloth, and when it is measured 
off, he will alter his mind and take beads; the cloth is 
returned and beads are given, and after a while these are 
not wanted, but something else, and so on. If any one 
wishes to increase in patience, let them come to Feejee 
for " beech de mer." 

30. Mr. W. has sent an ambassador to Raverave with 
a whale's tooth, inviting His Majesty to come, according 
to promise, to Mathuata, to keep his subjects from idling 
away their time. The schooner is fishing at Tavea. 

Nov. 3. The Star has arrived from Tavea and Rave- 



136 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

rave. Retova has sent word that he will be here in 
two days. 

While the Star lav at Tavea, a canoe came from Nda- 
ma with two men, who offered shell to Mr. Smith, wishing 
him to buy it. As they asked too much for it, Mr. S. did 
not trade with them, and they left the schooner to return 
to Ndama. On their way, the men, canoe, and tortoise 
shell were taken by a Tavea canoe (containing superior 
numbers of men) and carried to Tavea. The shell was 
again offered to Mr. Smith for sale, by Tavear men. 
The fate of the captives is not known. "Might makes 
right," here. 

Ndury tells me that a man died of repletion at Rave- 
rave the day after the cannibal feast. 



CHAPTER Till. 

The Plot— The Unwelcome Guests— The Flight— False Statements. 

Nov. 5. A Solavu vessel has arrived, bringing a load 
of yams for the bark, and very important information 
from Capt. Hartwell, The Gambia went from Bau to a 
place called Nivatu, for the purpose of fishing cc beech de 
mer." Capt. H. received on board at Bau, a young na- 
tive named Tatave, a nephew of the murdered Lasakau 
chief, to go with him as a hostage, and a kind of messen- 
ger from Bau. It is always desirable to have some one 
on board the vessels belonging to Bau when fishing in 
the dominions of its chiefs. In this instance, however, 
the man had better have been left behind. On their ar- 
rival at Nivatu, Tatave went to several towns near, and 
told them that it was the wish of the Bau chiefs for them 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 137 

to join the Nivatu people, and fish for Capt. H. It was 
very well so far; but he did not stop there. He told 
them that after they had fished a little, it was the com- 
mand of the chief for them to take the vessel. One day 
several natives assembled on board with their faces 
painted black. Other indications of mischief being visi- 
ble, the suspicions of the captain were excited, when he 
resorted to such measures as insured his safety at that 
time. The captain did not learn then the plans of the 
natives, or what Tatave had been doing. He only knew 
that they had assembled for mischief of some kind, and 
as the Nivatu people did not appear to be concerned in 
the affair, he kept on fishing with redoubled vigilance. 

Nivatu is a small island about twelve miles distant 
from Solavu, which is the residence of the white people 
who formerly lived at Levuka. It so happened that on 
a certain night a woman of Solavu went out to draw 
water, and as she was returning from the pond, she heard 
voices in conversation; and some words reaching her 
ears that excited her suspicion, she listened. The voices 
proceeded from two native men who had just returned 
from Nivatu. They were in a little "buri," nor knew 
they that one hearkened to their speech. They were 
heard to say that on the following day a canoe was to 
go off to the Gambia to offer several articles for sale. 
There were to be just double the number of natives 
that there were on board the Gambia. Half were to 
go on board first, unarmed, and engage the people in 
barter; while thus engaged, the other half were to fol- 
low, one at a time, armed, and gradually mingle with the 
rest. On a given signal, each of the two natives were to 
attack and kill their man, and take possession of the 
brig. Their first step, however, was to kill the trading 
officer on shore. The woman, having listened to the 



138 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

whole plan, returned to her house and related the same 
to her husband. The next morning, as soon as there 
was light enough for them to see their way over the 
reefs, several of the white men took a vessel and started, 
greatly fearing that they would not reach Nivatu in time 
to save the vessel. The wind favored them, however, 
and on their arrival they found all safe. The captain 
was informed of his danger, and boats were immediately 
manned, armed, and sent to the relief of the trading mas- 
ter on shore. When the boats reached the shore, they 
observed many natives, with their clubs and painted 
faces, walking about as though they were in waiting for 
something. Tatave was found and secured ; but Mr. 
Goodrich, the trading officer, was no where to be found. 
Tatave said that he was not killed, but he supposed 
that he had fled and hid himself in the bush. After half 
a day's search, he was found half dead with terror. He 
said that he perceived danger from the natives, and 
knowing that his single arm would not avail him any 
thing with such a host, and seeing no other way of es- 
cape, he had fled and concealed himself. 

I think that this affair originated entirely with Navinde 
when they were at Ba, where, as it will be recollected, 
an expedition was sent on Capt. HartwelPs account. 
Navinde and several of his people, with Verani, were on 
board the Gambia. A fine opportunity occurred at the 
time for taking possession of the vessel. Navinde pro- 
posed that the opportunity should be improved, but Ve- 
rani prevented him. 

After Mr. Goodrich was found, the boats returned to 
the vessel, where Tatave confessed that they intended to 
do as had been stated at Solavu ; but he would not tell who 
employed him. Soon after the captivity of Tatave, Eli- 
jah came to the vessel. Capt. Hartwell informed him of 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 139 

the facts that have been made known, and asked him 
what he should do with the prisoner. " Kill, hang him, 
or any thing," said Elijah, who was \ery angry at what 
he had heard. Capt. H. then ordered him to be tied to 
the mainmast, and receive thirty-nine lashes; this was 
done, and his feet were confined in irons, that he may 
do no more harm for the present. 

We have heard that one of Capt. King's trading men, 
on the Ba coast, has just had a narrow escape of his life, 
as there was a plan laid to kill him. 

As at home, when thieves are about, every means are 
used to secure our property, so these things cause us to 
redouble our vigilance. Our big guns have been fired 
off and reloaded, and are now looking saucily out of the 
ports, seeming to say, " Come here if you dare." The 
arm chests, in the fore and main top, are all ready to 
fight. A loaded musket stands near our bed, several 
loaded pistols are quietly lying in our state-room, and 
orders have been issued that the bell should be struck 
every half hour, that the natives on shore may learn that 
there are some on board who are not napping. 

6. Retova still delays coming; it is said through 
fear, on account of Harry's murder. We learn that he 
reached Navu in time to devour the heart of the man he 
hated. The Navu people must have been expecting him, 
or the heart w r ould not have been saved for his cannibal 
Majesty. 

9. Retova has come at last. He remained on board 
but a few moments, and then departed for the shore. 
He has lost much flesh, and looks quite dejected and ill. 

10. The chief has passed the day on board. Seeing 
him look sad, I proceeded to comfort him in the fol- 
lowing manner. " When Thakombau killed his bro- 
ther," I said, "you thought it very bad, and said that 



140 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

you could not do such a thing, that Bau was bad, 
and its chiefs were always engaged in ' veres.' Now 
what do you think of the Mathuata chiefs? Are they 
learning f veres ' of Bau? Did the Bau chiefs c vere 5 to 
kill your uncle? 55 " No, 55 he replied, " that was Korova- 
katuranga 5 s ' vere, 9 in revenge for the murder of his own 
father, who was killed by the king. 55 "But, 55 I replied, 
" he could not have killed so great a chief without your 
consent, which shows that you are as bad as the Bau 
chiefs. The God of heaven is angry when we commit 
murder, and will punish you for it, perhaps in this life. 
Korovakaturanga is your friend now; but you see he is 
strong, and has taken the life of the king to please you. 
By and by he may take your life to please himself. 55 He 
looked very sober, and I added, cc You know now about 
the ' lotu,' and you are ashamed to have your bad deeds 
known, because you know that they are wrong. 5 ' 
" Ndena, Marama," he replied. " Truly Marama. 55 

11. This morning His Majesty asked me for a razor. 
I handed him one, and he requested me to shave him. 
I declined the honor with one of my best courtsies, 
while Mr. W. sat almost convulsed with laughter at the 
scene. 

12. We are obliged, while lying here, to send a 
long distance for water. To-day the boat was sent with 
four men, which left us rather short, as some of our 
people are with the schooner, and some at the houses on 
shore. Three men only, besides the captain, were on 
board after the boat had left. No sooner had it disap- 
peared behind the island, than we observed two canoes 
put off, and sail for the bark; they were well filled with 
men. When we saw this goodly company approaching, 
we felt in our very hearts that we would rather defer the 
reception of so many visitors in the absence of our crew. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 141 

The captain told the few that were on board to leave 
their work, and each have some weapon at hand, with- 
out seeming to be armed, and to let no one come on 
board but the chiefs. He then put a small pistol in his 
pocket, while I, not caring to wield a broom-stick, took 
a pair of large scissors in my hand. When the chief 
came on board, he presented an order for an axe; ano- 
ther presented one for a hatchet, and another for a mus- 
ket, and so on. This looked suspicious. It is sometimes 
the case that when it is intended to take a vessel, they 
go without arms, and provide themselves in this manner 
from the vessel, in order that no suspicion may be ex- 
cited on board. Retova came into the cabin, and the 
captain brought him an axe from the trade room. After 
examining it some time he called for another, which was 
brought, and soon after he requested a third; this was 
all that the box contained. The captain had contrived 
to keep one axe in his hand the most of the time, but the 
chief put one under his seat, laid another in his lap, and 
held a third in his hand. I was standing near, playing 
awkwardly with my scissors, when observing that he had 
possession of all the axes, I took one from his lap, and 
after remarking upon its goodness and beauty, handed it 
to my husband. He was a long time selecting one of the 
three instruments, but at last succeeded, and prepared 
to depart. As he rose to go, he held the gleaming axe 
over my head and said, " Now, Marama, I will kill you 
with this hatchet." " It is very good for you to do it, 
and I will kill you with these scissors," I answered, 
pointing them to his heart. cc Saga, sara; iko Marama 
venaJea." " No, indeed; you are a good Marama," he 
said, laughing, and left the cabin. When he returned to 
the deck, he appeared surprised that the natives were 
all in their canoes. I followed the chief and my husband 



142 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

to the deck, knowing that a Feejeean would seldom in- 
jure a man, if watched. Such is his cowardice. 

13. Yesterday Retova ordered some of his people to 
put in their fish for him to pay for some articles of his 
own that were on board the bark. The obedient subjects 
brought in their fish and received their pay. His Maj- 
esty heard of it, and repaired to the " beech de mer" 
house in a great rage. Here he found the chief of the 
offending party, and hurled his spear at him, which miss- 
ed its aim. The offender set off at full speed, followed 
by several of his people, who were followed by the tu- 
fundres ; these were followed by a white man, who was 

followed by an African, and the whole were followed by 
the king himself. The party were racing at the top of 
their speed, tumbling over each other, logs of wood, 
stones and various other obstructions, (for the party had 
been formed so suddenly that the race-ground had not 
been prepared,) while the angry chief was close upon 
them, his head-dress and masi standing out straight about 
a yard, giving him the appearance of an animal with two 
tails. At length he gave up the chase, and calling to 
the black and white men who belonged to the house, he 
told them that he was not angry with them, and desired 
them to return. The offending chief sent a whale's tooth 
as £f a 6*07-0," and his people approached His Majesty on 
their hands and knees, their bodies covered with ashes, 
and exclaiming, " Sa soro ko au." ic I ask pardon." 
The king received the "soro" and pardoned his diso- 
bedient subjects. 

14. Retova came on board to-day, and acted over 
the scene of yesterday with great glee. He said that 
Johnson, our black man, turned nearly white, and his 
face could scarcely be seen for lips. Some of the Fee- 
jeeans are grand mimics. I have seen them hand my 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 143 

husband an order, and walk behind him imitating his 
manner exactly when he is vexed. 

15. Two Geer canoes that are fishing here came 
alongside, while Thouthou, their chief, paid us a visit. 
Geer is about twelve miles from Mathuata, is owned 
by Retova, and its inhabitants are subject to his power. 
When vessels are here, he often sends for them to come 
and fish for them. As Mr. W. did not choose to give 
him all he wanted, he became quite impudent, saying, 
" Capt. said you were a ' kaise,' and it is true in- 
deed. You are a ' kaise.' " Mr. W. said, "Yes, it is 
true. I am a 'kaise,' and if you knew it, why did you 
come to beg of me? It is not your custom to beg of 
such." " Well," he returned, " I want you to have the 
sail mended for my canoe, or I will not fish." "Very 
well," said Mr. W., "do as you please. I shall not 
have your sail mended, as you had time enough to repair 
it before you came." " Then give my people some yams 
to eat; they are hungry," said he. " I can scarcely 
get yarns enough for my own people," replied Mr. W. 
"Then I will go home," was his reply. "Go home if 
you choose," said Mr. W., who had given presents, and 
tried every method but indifference. He now thought 
that he would try a little of that. Thouthou thought 
that he might play Retova, who, it is said, has received 
from some masters of vessels whatever he chose to ask 
for. If he was refused, he would return to his home, 
and there remain till a " soro " was sent in the shape of 
a musket, a whale's tooth, or some other article, when 
he would return and set his people to work again. 

When Thouthou left, Mr. W. told him that he had 
doubled his prices for fish, and paid well. If he chose 
to fish, well, and if he chose to go home it was just as 



144 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

well. It is very probable that the chief had taken a 
lesson from his superior before he visited the bark. 

16. The boat was again sent for water, and, as be- 
fore, two canoes came to the bark, with a large number 
of men in them. Retova has never brought so many 
people to the vessel since the boat went last for water. 
The captain gave the same orders that he did on a pre- 
vious visit. Retova came into the cabin while Ratanga 
remained on deck; no others were allowed to leave the 
canoes. While the chief remained below, he happened 
to observe a part of the little pistol which had been stow- 
ed snugly away in a certain pocket. " What is that in 
your pocket for? are you afraid?" said he. " No, I am 
not afraid," was the reply; " but it is best to keep some 
weapon about one. You know that there are many 
strangers here at present. The Geer people are bad. 
Do you not remember that they killed the white man's 
child, and would have murdered its parents if Capt. Os- 
borne had not sent and liberated them?" "Ah, it is 
true," he replied. After remaining below a while, here- 
paired to the deck, followed by Mr. W. and myself. He 
appeared quite surprised to see all his people in the ca- 
noes, and turning to Mr. W., said, " Why are not the 
people allowed to come on board? what are you afraid 
of?" "Do you not see," said the captain, " that seve- 
ral of my men are absent? Why should all these men 
come on board? — you could not see that they did not 
steal, and how could I recover articles thus stolen?" 
"Ah, you do not fear that," replied he; "you think, 
perhaps, that we are engaged in a c vere ' to take your 
vessel." "We are prepared for that; Feejeeans would 
gain nothing by a 'vere.' You know where our pow- 
der is, and you see that Mrs. W. is always watch- 
ing; if she sees any thing wrong, she knows how to send 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 145 

fire to the powder, and away we go all together.'' f< We 
are good men, and would do you no harm." "Yes," 
said Mr. W., "I know what a good man you are; but 
some of your people may not be as good as your Majes- 
ty; therefore it is best to look out for them." When the 
boat appeared in sight our visitors departed. 

17. The Star brings word from Kandavu that their 
canoes have been fired into by the Mathuata people, and 
they were afraid to go to the reefs again for fish. Re- 
tova, too, had sent for the Kandavuns to come here and 
fight. Mr. W. inquired the meaning of all this. Re- 
tova replied, by saying that a Mathuata canoe ran across 
the bows of a Kandavu canoe in play, but the Kanda- 
vuns took it in earnest, and were angry. He sent word 
to them, therefore, that they might come here in sight of 
the two Turaga-lavus and fight it out. He immediately 
sent a messenger to his frightened subjects to tell them 
to go on with their fishing, and no one should harm them. 

In the afternoon Retova went on shore, and soon after 
an order was sent off for a hatchet, — as it was not 
marked black fish, the hatchet was refused, not knowing 
who had sent for it. Retova had sent the man, and 
when he returned and said the hatchet had been re- 
fused, the testy chief flew into a rage, and sent word that 
Mr. W. might send for the fish as soon as he pleased, as 
he should burn the house to-night. The hatchet was 
sent with a suitable apology, and the affair was settled. 

18. The schooner arrived from Tavea. Mr. Smith 
left the natives delicately feeding upon the bodies of five 
men whom they had surprised and taken from an inland 
town. 

I find that I have been mistaken about Muta. It is 
not an inland town, but is situated about half a mile from 
the seashore, on Vanualavu, and is approached from 
10 



146 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

seaward by a river that leads from the shore to the 
town. 

Some of the friends of the late king are now saying 
that Capt. Osborne joined Retova in the <s vere " to kill 
the king. This we believe to be false, though, as the 
affair terminated, we are not surprised that the natives 
should think so. Capt. O. probably believed that Re- 
tova sincerely desired to make peace, which was truly 
desirable on many accounts. It would be advantageous 
to himself, and to others who were engaged in the same 
business, as the whole coast could engage in fishing 
without fear of each other. He, therefore, did all in his 
power to bring about a reconciliation, and establish a 
permanent peace along this coast. The failure was not 
owing to any thing wrong on his part, but to the decep- 
tion and treachery of Retova. 

While we were breakfasting this morning, Mr. W. 
sneezed when pouring out a cup of coffee for the Turaga- 
lavu. He refused the coffee, saying if he should drink 
it, he would be clubbed. They never drink yanggona if 
a person sneezes when preparing it. 

19. I overheard Cunningham tell the captain that he 
fully believed Retova was planning some mischief, and 
advised his being closely watched. Jack has been off 
from the house, and says that he is certain the na- 
tives intend to try to take the vessel, and that when 
the canoes came off with all those men, when the boat 
had gone for water, the natives armed themselves and 
assembled on the beach, watching intently the vessel and 
the canoes. We are not sorry that the people are some- 
what frightened, as they have been feeling so secure that . 
they have been found napping when they should have 
been watching. It is said that a Feejeean is too much 
of a coward ever to strike any one when facing him. I 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 147 

make it a part of my business, therefore, to watch, that 
Mr. W. may not get a blow on his back. Retova and 
Ratanga have been on board all day. Mr. W. does not 
think that mischief is intended us, but thinks that there 
may be trouble among themselves; however, he is watch- 
ing for the safety of all. 

20. The Turaga-lavu came on board, and said that 
the Tavea people, with others, were coming to kill him, 
and he wished Mr. W. to look out for the appearance of 
the war canoes, that he might have time to come on 
board the bark for safety. Our men on shore hear the 
natives talking about the affair, and understanding the 
language but imperfectly, think that they are about to 
be eaten. 

21. Ratanga came off to the bark in high glee, sta- 
ting that a dead man had been brought to them, and 
they sh'ould feast upon his body. I tried to talk with 
him about it, but he was too much elated to hearken to 
my speech. The dead man, about ten years ago, had 
stolen a woman from a town called Nagumu, and fled to 
the interior with her, where they had lived since that 
time. The man, supposing that his offence had been 
forgotten, ventured to revisit his native place. He had 
no sooner arrived than he was killed, and as the Turaga- 
lavu was at Mathuata, the body was sent to him without 
delay. When natives are killed at any of the " kaise " 
towns, the bodies are sent to the Turaga-lavu, who de- 
vours the choice bits, such as the heart and tongue, and 
has the rest divided among his people. If he has seve- 
ral bodies, he sends them to different towns, as little 
tokens of his love for, and remembrance of them. How 
delightful such affectionate remembrances from their 
chief! What a pity that any one should interfere with 
such innocent and simple customs! 



148 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

22. We learn that the body of the murdered man 
was yesterday carried to the "beech de mer " house, 
where it was prepared for the oven. It was then taken 
away to some place out of sight of the vessel, where it 
was cooked and eaten. A piece of the disgusting food 
was offered to our men at the house, who set to and 
chased the man with a large stick. Another man came 
with a piece of the flesh and sat down by the trade 
house and enjoyed his treat, after which he threw the 
bones behind some bushes. 

23. We are exceedingly amused at the little tales 
often told us by Retova and Ndury. They will beg 
something of Mr. W. which he thinks proper to refuse, 
making them feel a little irritated; when His Majesty 
will relate some interesting tale which has been told him 
by Capt. . The following is a record of the con- 
versation which took place to-day. The chief, address- 
ing Mr. W., said, " Capt. says that yrr are a 

'kaise' in America, that no Turagas talk with you, 
that you do not own any part of the vessel that you come 
in, nor any of the riches it contains; but he owns the 
vessel that was here with all that it contained, besides 
another vessel in America that is coming out the next 
time he comes ; and he owns two houses filled with 
riches in America." "Indeed!" said Mr. W., "what 
a great man he is. He can well afford to give you all 
you ask of him, if he owns so much property. How is it 
that you ask me for riches, when you know that I have 
none? Suppose that you should send a canoe to Bau in 
charge of one of your l kaises \ — you load the canoe with 
riches, such as cloth, sail mats, &c, for which you are 
to receive an equivalent. What would you say if your 
' kaise ' gave your riches away, and brought you nothing 
back?" The chief was not prepared for this kind of rea- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 149 

soning. It is a great insult to call a chief a " kaise," 
and he supposed that Mr. W. would argue in favor of 
his own respectability. It has been the custom for many 
of the trading masters who come to Feejee, to tell the 
chiefs and natives what great men they are at home. 

The chief paused a moment, and then said, "Capt. 

says that you belong to a poor little town, where they 
have nothing but beans to eat." At this we laughed 
loud, long and merrily. At length I said, "Do you not 
think that the food is good? Look at Mr. W. and see 
how large he is (weighing about two hundred and thirty). 

If you should ever see Capt. again, do advise him 

to feed awhile upon the same." The chief paused again, 

but soon rallied, and resumed, " Capt. has a great 

many colors on board his vessel; and he says that none 
but sons of the king of America are allowed so many 
colors, — that if you were to bring so many you would be 
killed. He says, too, that you are a foolish man to 
bring your wife here, and that she is old and ugly." At 
this another merry peal rang through the cabin, which 
interrupted the chief for a moment, when he went on to 
say, " Capt. says that his wife is young and hand- 
some, and rides on a beautiful horse." How should a 
report be circulated in Feejee so near the truth! I am 
not young, — I am not handsome, — I never rode a beau- 
tiful horse in my life ; and I am not wedded to a 
donkey for a husband. The chief, however, felt better 
after awhile, and remained on board all night. When it 
was time to retire, I told the steward to , bring the tele- 
graphic signals, the national flag, the signal of the bark, 
and every other that could be found, into the cabin. 
This being done, he was farther ordered to unfold and 
place them, one by one, on the floor of the cabin for the 
chief's bed. Retova watched the doings with surprise; 



150 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

for his bed was becoming soft and yielding. At length 

he exclaimed, " A lavu ni lasu." Capt. , a great 

liar is Capt. . When the colors were all placed, I 

inquired, quietly, if he would like any more. " Sagai 
sara; a lavu," he replied. No, indeed; enough. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Destruction of Rewa — The Prisoner — Return to Bau — A Mistake — Arri- 
val of the American Consul — The Lazy Boy — The Escape — Return to 
Bau — Vatai — The Tonga Chief— Queen of Rewa — Captives at Bau — 
Origin of the War with Rewa. 

Dec. 8. Capt. Hartwell has arrived, and brings in- 
telligence of the destruction of Rewa. The town was 
burnt, and about four hundred inhabitants massacred. 
The following are the particulars of the affair: — It ap- 
pears that a party in Rewa favored Bau. A petty chief 
of this party went to Bau, and had an interview with Tha- 
kombau, its master spirit, when he promised to betray 
Rewa into his hands. The messenger was instructed to 
return to Rewa, and tell its king that Thakombau would 
come and fight Rewa on a given day, and after the battle 
he would receive their " soro," and they would be at 
peace. When the day arrived, Thakombau, accompa- 
nied by his warriors and butchers (Lasakaus), sailed for 
Rewa, and appeared before the town about daylight. A 
message was sent to the principal wife of the king, who 
is a near relative of the king of Bau, commanding her, 
with her children and all the Bau women, to come on 
board his canoe for safety, as they were about to engage 
in battle, and the town was to be burned. As the wo- 
men were preparing to obey the message, the king 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, lol 

awoke, and surprised at what he saw, he inquired where 
the women were going. When his wife told him, he 
said, " I shall go with you. 5 ' When they had assembled 
at the river side, two canoes were in waiting. Thakom- 
bau, with some of his followers, were in one, and the 
other was empty. Thakombau ordered the king to come 
to the one that he occupied, and the women and children 
to embark on board the other. li No," said the king, 
" I will not leave my women and children, — where they 
go, I will go." He thought, probably, that while he re- 
mained with his queen his life was safe, as she was a 
Bau woman of high rank. Such has heretofore been 
their custom, and its violation has never been known 
previous to the present instance. Thakombau ordered a 
man to fire at the king. This being done, he fell, ex- 
claiming, " Has it come to this?" The king was wound- 
ed, not killed; and Thakombau perceiving this, ordered 
several warriors to step to the other canoe, and despatch 
him with their clubs. 

The Maranra had appeared as one stunned from the 
moment she had embarked in the canoe. She did not 
suspect that her husband's life was in danger from his 
enemies while she was with him. Such a thing had 
never been known in the annals of her country. The 
order to club her husband, however, roused her from 
her stupor, and she hastily stepped on to the other ca- 
noe, and knelt at the feet of her cousin, and in a voice 
of agony said, "Oh! my brother, my brother, (cousins 
are called brothers and sisters, as they have no word in 
their language which expresses uncle, aunt, or cousin,) 
save the life of my husband. Do not kill him, but let 
him be e bulu ' (well), and he will bring wood to cook 
your food, or do any thing for you. Oh! brother, hear 



15°2 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

my speech!" " He has greatly injured me and shall 
die," was the reply. 

While the half distracted wife was vainly pleading 
with her inhuman cousin for the life of her husband, two 
warriors were pounding him with their clubs, but it 
seemed as though the victim bore a charmed life. They 
did not kill him, and he was at last strangled. The wife 
and children witnessed the whole scene. 

While the above was being enacted on board the 
canoes, the town had been fired by its betrayer, and 
the butchers had commenced their slaughter. The bro- 
ther of the king fled to the mountains, and the strong 
men of Rewa mostly fled, leaving their aged, and wo- 
men and children, to meet the murderous club, and sup- 
ply the cannibal feasts. Thakombau returned immedi- 
ately to the capitol, bearing his captives, among whom 
was the mother of Revelete, who was an own sister of 
the king of Rewa. 

Thus another victory has been gained by treachery; 
and it is said that Thakombau has stepped upon the top 
round of the ladder, from which some prophecy that he 
will soon begin to descend. He may be hurled from its 
top, but I do not think he will ever descend by its rounds. 

The natives say that the prophecy is still fulfilling 
respecting the five brothers of Rewa. Two are left; 
and to accomplish the whole, it is only necessary to kill 
Garenggeo, make " Ko-mai-ni-mana," or Phillips, as he 
is generally called, king, and shoot Thakombau. 

Capt. H. has his prisoner on board the Gambia, being 
undetermined, as yet, what to do with him. He found 
means to loose his irons last night, intending to swim to 
the shore. His intentions, however, were frustrated, 
and he was obliged to sleep without the benefit of a salt 
water bath. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 153 

11. The king came on board with an old musket, 
and desired a new one for it. Mr. W. was busy at the 
time attending to the weight of some fish, and sent him 
word that the old musket was not worth a fish-hook. 
The message greatly offended His Majesty, and he took 
the hostage in his canoe and departed for the island. 
As soon as Mr. W. heard how he had offended the chief, 
he sent a whale's tooth as a M soro," which was received, 
and the hostage returned. 

12. The Nagumu people leave Mathuata and fishing 
to-day, to return home, declaring that they are afraid on 
account of the man in irons on board the Gambia. Our 
hostage is also afflicted in the same way. He says that 
he has not slept for two nights. He has been allowed to 
leave, and we shall have one of higher rank in his room. 

13. The Gambia sailed away in fine style. A part- 
ing salute was fired by both vessels. 

15. Retova says that Tatave told him that it was by 
the direction of the Bau chiefs that they were about to 
take the Gambia. He said Bau was angry because 
Capt. H. went to Rewa, and supplied their enemies with 
ammunition. I presume that Capt. H. did not do this, 
but their jealousy was such that they accused him of it. 
Tatave said that many angry messages had been sent to 
Vewa, and Thakombau was intending soon to attack the 
place, as he was very angry with the missionary for con- 
verting Verani. 

Mr. Hunt writes us that the gospel progresses, and 
the heathen rage. But their trust is in God, who has 
hitherto kept them from harm. 

16. The Star brings word from Kandavu that Retova 
is angry with that people, because they attended a 
" Solavu" in a neighboring town without his permission. 
He has sent them word that four men must be brought 



154 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

him to eat, as payment for their offence. Since the mes- 
sage, the people are afraid to go to the reefs. Thus he 
has sent the Geer and Nagumu people home, and pre- 
vented the Kandavu people from fishing. He promised 
Mr. W. that if he would take him to Bau, on his re- 
turn the vessel should be loaded in four months. His 
object, however, is evidently to enrich himself without 
working, which is very well for him, but does not load 
the bark. Ndury came off to-day in a very ill-humor, 
and talked in the most impudent manner. He inquired 
what would be done with Tatave. Mr. W. told him that 
he did not know. "I know," he answered. "He will 
be carried to America and brought back again ; for 
there is no one to punish him there. It is a poor place, 
and the sons of its king have to come here for " beech de 
mer". "What son of its king has ever been here?" 

was asked. " Capt. , who wore a red sash," was 

the reply. "He said that none but the sons of kings 
were allowed to wear a red sash." " His Man-Friday 
wears a red sash, too. Is he also the king's son?" 

"Yes," was the reply. "He married Capt. 's 

sister." "The Malolo people," said I, " do not think 
that America is a little place." "The vessels that come 
here," he replied, " are now all rotten, and the king is 
too poor to have any more made. The Turaga-lavu said 
that vessels of war would be sent here in four years; 
they do not come, though many white men have been 
killed. If Capt. Hartwell's vessel had been taken, no 
one would come to see about it." What could be said 
to this? During the four years succeeding the squadron's 
visit, no murders were committed upon white men; but 
since the expiration of that term some fifteen persons 
have been killed. It is a pity that a promise of that kind 
should have been made, as since its non-fulfilment, the 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 155 

natives have become more daring. When Ndury had 
" freed his mind," he departed. 

17. Johnson, from the house on shore, relates 
that after the cannibal dinner, which took place the 
other day, all who shared in these delights were very 
particular in their ablutions afterwards. Not one of them 
are willing to visit the spot after dark where their meal 
was taken. The young man who threw a bone behind 
the house, will not go out after dark, declaring that the 
bone had whistled to him as he left the house one eve- 
ning. This shows that there must be a little monitor 
within which tells them that it is wrong to eat each other. 
Ratanga once said to me, " Do the Americans never eat 
each other?" " No," I replied, £C we know better. Our 
pigs and cats sometimes devour their young, but we are 
not like pigs and cats. Do you not see how superior 
men and women are to these animals? You would think 
it very strange, if, instead of talking, we were to grunt 
and mew like them, and it would be equally strange did 
we learn of them lo eat each other. We do not wish to 
learn the habits of these animals." He looked exceed- 
ingly ashamed, and after a pause said, " The Feejeeans 
are then like pigs!" "No," I replied; "they are 
worse than pigs, for they do not eat great pigs that live 
with them ; only their little ones, and seldom these. 
They know no better. It is many years since Feejeeans 
have been told that it is horrible to eat each other, and 
they are now becoming ashamed of the practice. You 
told me that you did not eat any of that man the other 
day. Why did you tell me so? It was because you 
were ashamed; and why were you ashamed? It was be- 
cause you knew it to be wrong." " Ko eko sa ngase" — 
" You are wise." And thus the conversation ended with 
a compliment to myself. I have never found a native, 



156 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

chief, priest, or poor man, who would say any thing in 
favor of their customs, but will usually say, " Yes, we 
are a foolish people, and our customs are foolish." This 
is not said because they believe it to be the case, but out 
of courtesy. 

18. Broke up the fishing establishment at this place, 
and set sail for Raverave in more than half a gale of 
wind, which carried away the maintop gallant yard, and 
split the mainsail. As the sails and yards were wanted 
for farther use, the captain thought best to anchor at 
Kandavu till the gale subsided. 

20. The boat was sent into the town for water, and 
the natives on seeing it approach, armed themselves, and 
waited on the beach for its arrival. The men, however, 
went and filled their casks without any trouble. 

About ten o'clock we sailed for Raverave, where we 
soon arrived and anchored. 

21. Mr. W. made his final settlement with Retova, 
who brought me a present of two pigs and a valuable 
war-club. 

22. We anchored last night at Nivaka. The boat 
was sent ashore to buy bananas and cocoa-nuts, but 
stopped about twenty yards from the shore. There were 
four natives to be seen on the beach, who stood and 
looked at the men in the boat, and the men in the boat 
looked at the men on the shore. As there were no ba- 
nanas or cocoa-nuts in the water, and the men showed 
no inclination to go any nearer the shore for them, the 
captain ordered a musket to be fired for their return. 

23. The morning being bright and fair, our sails 
w r ere spread to the breeze, and we started forBua. We 
had not advanced far, however, when the sun became 
obscured by heavy masses of clouds, and the rain poured 
in torrents. Our situation was rather dangerous for sev- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 157 

eral hours, from the many sunken rocks, besides shoals 
and reefs which abound in our course. We arrived at 
Bua in safety, and the anchor was cast in its bay. In 
the afternoon the weather became clear, and we received 
several native visitors, who brought some very accepta- 
ble eatables for sale. We have seldom had any thing 
offered for sale during our late sojourn on the Mathuata 
coast, which may be truly termed a land of dearth. The 
towns which belonged to Tuimathuata, and those of its 
present chief, were so intermixed that they are contin- 
ually destroying each other's food, and are often nearly 
starving themselves. 

While we were bartering with the natives, I asked if 
there were any kalavus on the land (meaning balawas, or 
pine-apples). " Yes," they replied, " there are a great 
many there." "Ah, it is very good. I wish you would 
bring me some," I said. "Bring you kalavus, marama! 
What for?" "To eat," I replied. "To eat! How 
many?" " Oh, a hundred," I said. "A hundred! well, 
we did not know that white people ate kalavus." " Yes 
we do, and we love them very much. I love them, Mr. 
W. loves them, and the sailors, and all love them." 
" JYa kalavu marama, vaka og-o?" "A rat, marama?" 
and he set his fingers crawling along on the table. " Oh, 
no, no, no!" I exclaimed, for I found that I had been 
engaging them to bring me a hundred rats. 

The old Turaga does not come off, as he is getting to 
feel a grasshopper to be a burden. His son, Batenamu 
(Putnam), took tea with us. 

26. We are now anchored at Bua point. Four sail- 
boats of various sizes, and double that number of canoes 
are about us. The visit is principally from the white 
residents at Solavu. Among them, however, is a boat 
measuring three fathoms in length and nine in breadth. 



158 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

This little craft has just arrived from New Zealand, com- 
manded by Capt. Walker, late of Salem, Mass. We 
learn by him that the United States Consul for the South 
Pacific will be here soon. A young man accompanies 
the Consul, and brings letters for us from home, which I 
presume will not be detained as our last were. 

We are here favored with an abundance of fruits, veg- 
etables and pure water, which I have learned to appre- 
ciate. I think it is almost a miracle that we are not all 
sick from the effects of the vile liquid misnamed water, 
that we have sometimes used. While our vessel was at 
Mathuata, we learned that the natives bathed in the place 
where our water casks were filled. The casks were then 
sent to Kandavu, where one of our crew and a Salem 
boy were stationed. Orders were sent for the boy al- 
ways to go with the natives, and see that clean water 
was sent to the vessel. For two weeks, however, the 
stuff that came instead of water was exceedingly filthy. 
At length the Star put in at the place one day for water, 
and Tommy repaired to the pond to dip and fill his 
" saka." As he approached a certain mud-puddle whose 
dimensions were somewhat extensive, he observed some 
ten or twelve little urchins in it, tossing about two water 
casks, and engaging in all sorts of preity antics, while a 
woman was washing a child, whose flesh was not per- 
fectly pure ; and another was cleaning yams. How 
useful such ponds are in Feejee! 

- " How is this?" inquired Tom. " Do you fill the casks 
for the vessel from this place?" " Yes," was the reply. 
" Why, do you not go to a clean place?" said Tom. 
"Because it is farther," he answered. Tommy (bless 
him for it!) made the boys take the casks to a pure run- 
ning rivulet, where he washed and filled them with water. 
When he returned to the "beech de mer " house, he 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 159 

asked the boy, who was about seventeen years of age, 
why he did not go and see to the water. " Oh, it is some 
distance to go," said the boy. In justice to the lad, 
however, it should be stated that he was somewhat in- 
clined to corpulency, and had never been remarkable for 
his activity; besides, he was there merely for company 
for the man at the house, and the exertion of going to 
the spring once in two days was too much for him. 
When Tommy told Mr. W. about the water, he wrote to 
the lad, and sent him a bottle of the filth that we had on 
hand. The answer received in reply, was, "I did not 
know, sir, that the natives washed in the place where the 
casks were filled, but I knew that they washed above 
and below it." 

27. The Star anchored last night at a place called 
Bau-lailai. About midnight Tommy observed several 
natives swimming off to visit them. Not being prepared 
to receive and entertain so large a company, he awoke 
Andrew, and as there was no wind, they used their oars 
to some effect till they had well distanced their unwel- 
come visitors, who no doubt would have bitten them the 
next day, had they have reached the boat and found the 
men asleep, It is very important that all should watch 
in these cannibal lands. 

Jan. 2. We anchored at Bau after an absence of nine 
months. As soon as the tide suited, I paid a visit to my 
friends at Vewa, and found them all well. Several con- 
versions have taken place since I left, and they have also 
had many anxious hours on account of the anger of the 
Bau chief, but for the last few weeks, affairs have been 
more quiet. It was forbidden that food should be sold to 
the Vewa people. 

A few days since, Thakombau visited Vewa and passed 
nearly a day with the missionaries, but did not go near 



160 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

either of the chiefs, and made many suspicious inquiries, 
such as, where do the lotu people live? where do you 
and your families sleep? where do your servants sleep? 
&c. Mr. Hunt told him the various reports in circula- 
tion. He neither affirmed nor denied them. 

Vatai came to him, and addressed him in the following 
manner: — " I know, 'saka,'* that it is a very great ' tam- 
bu ' for a woman to approach so great a chief and talk 
with him, but my love to you is so great that I am con- 
strained to do it. I must tell you that you must give 
up your sins and love the true God, or you will go to the 
6 buku waqa.' God is now very angry with you, but He 
will forgive you if you will repent and forsake your sins. 
Believe me, the Feejeean gods are false, lying gods, and 
they cannot assist or help you." The chief heard her 
patiently, but vouchsafed no reply. On his return to 
Bau, the conversation was repeated at court. Much was 
said about it and the Maramas showed their contempt for 
the doctrine which usually finds but little favor in courts. 

5. Returned to the bark, and found His Majesty and 
a Tonga chief on board. The chief observed to Mr. W. 
that I looked very thin. "Yes," was the reply. "I 
could procure no pigs or chickens for her food while we 
were absent, and now she lives at Vewa, where you have 
forbidden your people to sell food, so she must continue 
to look poor and thin." He asked me to give him some 
small beads, which I did, but he returned them, saying, 
"Take them to Vewa, and the Marama will go there 
and see you; she will bring you a pig and some chick- 
ens, and you may then give her the beads." The Tonga 
chief, whose name is Tubou Toutai, is a fine looking 
man, and very dignified. He informed me that he had 



1 Sir. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 161 

spent some time in Sydney, where he had picked up some 
knowledge of the English language. The following is a 
specimen: — " Mrs. Wallis, I got one nice mat in Bau for 
you; spose you come Bau, I give him to you; spose you 
no come Bau, I come Vewa, I fetch him you." 

After their departure, a canoe came from Bau loaded 
with damsels. Among them were two of the daughters 
of the late King of Rewa. We were truly glad when 
night came, and they departed. 

6. Returned to Vewa, and again took possession of 
my little domicil. There is one custom of the papalagis 
which Feejeeans really love; namely, the shaking of 
hands. I think there is not a man, woman or child over 
seven years of age, that I have not been obliged to shake 
hands with. On the Sabbath, the congregation formed a 
line after the morning service to shake hands with me. 
I thought the ceremony had been duly passed on the 
shore, when I first landed. My namesake, whom I left 
mourning the death of her husband, is full of love for me. 
Elijah has thus far lived an honor to religion since his 
profession. 

7. Yesterday the Queen of Rewa and several other 
captives came to visit Mr. and Mrs. Jaggar, who were 
stationed at that place till the commencement of the war. 
Vatai came in to see them, accompanied by an old man, 
who has professed Christianity for some time past. 
"You have," said the man (addressing the Marama), 
"had the gospel preached to you, but your hearts were 
proud. You believed it to be true, yet you rejected it., 
God is very angry with you about it, and He has allowed 
your town to be destroyed. There is now no King of 
Rewa. There is now no Rewa." " I love you," said 
Vatai, " and what but the love that 1 bear to my relatives 
would have caused me to brave the anger of Thakombau, 

11 



162 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

and beg of him to c lotuV Your husband was killed, and 
my heart was full of pity and love for you, and I begged 
that he might f loin,' that you might ' lotu, 9 and that all 
might be happy. Once I did not know how to love, but 
the gospel teaches us to love. But now your hearts are 
proud. You laughed at my speech to the chief, which 
was made from love for you, and all my relatives in Bau 
ridiculed me, and would not speak to me; but I do not 
mind it, and I will still pray to God for you all c with a 
very good mind.' " The visitors looked sober, but made 
no reply. 

Samonunu came with the pig and fowls, as was prom- 
ised. Several attendants came with her, both men and 
women The men brought the presents, or they would 
not have been in attendance. 

8. Received a visit from the widowed queen. She is 
a good looking woman (for Feejee,) of about thirty-five 
years of age. She appeared rather sad. I presented 
her with a basket and a few little notions, which pleased 
her much. On her departure, she took a tortoise shell 
ring from her finger, and presenting it to me, said, " This 
was my husband's love to me. He is dead; but I have 
others which he gave me, and this is my love to you." 

We learn that the principal wife of Garenggeo, with 
her children, are among the captives at Bau. The mo- 
ther of Revelete declares, that, although she is compelled 
to live in Bau, she will not be strangled when the king 
(her husband) dies, for she hates him, and wishes she 
could stick sharp pointed sticks through his flesh. 

9. Being curious to learn the origin of the late war 
which terminated in the destruction of Rewa, on inquiry 
I received the following account. 

In 1841, Garenggeo, the younger brother of the king, 
was detected in a love affair with the queen. The con- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 163 

sequence was, that he fled to Bau and attempted to en- 
gage the Bau chiefs in a war with Rewa in his favor. 
This they refused to do, but tried every means in their 
power to pacify the offended king and reconcile the bro- 
thers. The king, however, would accept of no " soro " 
from the capitol. At length Garenggeo, seeing that all 
his influence failed to excite the chiefs against Rewa, 
determined to return and risk the anger of his offended 
brother. Contrary, however, to his expectations, the 
king received him with favor, and Bau soon heard of the 
reconciliation instead of the civil war, which they expect- 
ed in consequence of the return of the offender to Rewa. 
This led the ruling powers of Bau to suppose that the 
" soro " which had been offered by them for the offence 
of Garenggeo, had been refused out of ill-will to them. 

Soon after the reconciliation of the brothers, a story 
was circulated that a town belonging to Bau was men- 
aced by Garenggeo. Thakombau informed the inhabit- 
ants of their danger, and advised them to build a fence 
round their town, and to keep quiet. Soon after this, the 
Rewa chiefs were somewhat insulted by the chief of a 
town called Suva, belonging to Bau. This town had long 
been a favorite place with the king of Bau and his son; its 
chief, too, enjoyed their confidence. This town was at- 
tacked by Garenggeo and his warriors, but they gained 
no advantage. The chief retired from the place to col- 
lect a larger force, being determined to destroy Suva. 
Thakombau now thought it time to notice the affair. He 
sent a messenger, therefore, to inquire why these things 
were so, and to tell the chiefs of Rewa, what they already 
knew, — that it had always been the custom of Bau 
and Rewa, when a town belonging to one party had 
offended the other, to ask leave before engaging in hos- 
tilities with the offenders. The messenger was received 



164 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

by the king and his brother with but little ceremony, and 
told that their preparations for war were to attack Kan- 
davu, a place belonging to themselves, and it was not 
their purpose to trouble Suva. This was a mere pre- 
tence. The chiefs did not wish their intentions to be 
known lest Suva should receive aid fromBau. The mes- 
senger remained at Rewa till they were ready to sail, 
when he was informed that Suva was to be destroyed. 
He then returned to Bau, stating what he had seen and 
heard, and ended by advising the rulers at Bau to do as 
Christians did, — forgive. 

Bau and Rewa were nearly related. The queen of 
the latter was the child of the king of Bau's sister. 
Many Bau women of high rank were wives of the chiefs 
of Rewa, and many Rewa women were wives of some 
of the principal chiefs of Bau, and the two places had, 
for many years, lived on the most friendly terms. Offen- 
ces would sometimes occur, but they were speedily set- 
tled, and Bau appeared determined at this time to en- 
dure, rather than be at enmity, or engage in hostilities 
with those so nearly related. Suva was burned, many 
of its inhabitants were killed at the time, and those who 
escaped were pursued on the next day with a barbarity 
not always evinced even by cannibal savages. This 
made a deep impression on the minds of the chiefs of 
Bau; but they kept still. " Let them destroy another 
town before we notice this, or insult us in some other 
way," said the king of Bau. Thakombau went on a 
visit to the windward about this time, declaring that he 
did not wish to fight with Rewa. Bau was never known 
to show so much forbearance in any other affair. None 
could ever insult its haughty chiefs with impunity. But 
Rewa seemed determined to go on with the same insult- 
ing conduct, which has resulted in its destruction. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 165 

About this time a serious misunderstanding took place 
between the king of Bau and one of his principal wives, 
the king of Rewa*s sister. She left him and repaired to 
Rewa, with all her household, consisting of many of the 
concubines of the king, who were Rewa women. This 
was a serious loss to the king, who possessed only one 
hundred wives. The loss, however, might have been 
endured, had it not been followed by insult of the most 
aggravating kind to a Feejeean. The king gave his sis- 
ter to a Rewa chief for a wife, and disposed of the other 
women as he pleased. The most bitter hatred now took 
entire possession of the heart of the old king, and he de- 
clared that Rewa should be destroyed. 

On the return of Thakombau, Tanoa called his sons 
together, and thus addressed them: — " My sons, I have 
been deeply insulted by my relatives. I am old, and 
am not able to avenge my wrongs. Oh, that I had 
some one to love me, and avenge them for me! Alas! 
I have no son to punish my enemies !" Thakombau 
deeply sympathized with his father, and determined to 
accomplish his wishes. The sympathies of Revelete, 
no doubt, were enlisted on the side of his mother and 
her relatives, but he dared not show them. Besides, he 
would be but little, if any, affected by the war; being 
" vasu " to Rewa, he could go and come when he chose; 
no one would dare harm him at Rewa, although he 
should engage on the side of Bau. 

War was now declared in its worst form. A war of 
the chiefs, which was not to end till the kings of one 
party or the other were destroyed. Messengers were 
sent to Rewa to take leave of its chiefs, and terminate 
all friendly intercourse, as is their custom on such occa- 
sions. The Rewa chiefs now desired to " soro " to Bau, 
but it was too late; the Rubicon was passed, and noth- 



166 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ing would answer but the blotting out of Rewa as an in- 
dependent state. When wars are declared in Feejee, 
even among those who may have lived on the most 
friendly terms, kind feelings are laid aside, and the 
worst degree of enmity is exhibited. Every means is 
considered lawful to effect the destruction of each other. 
The Rewa chiefs did not suppose that Bau ever intended 
its destruction. They were not aware of the enmity 
which they had excited, and supposed that after a little 
skirmishing they could "soro* to Bau, receive their 
pardon, and live on the same friendly terms as before. 
In this they were mistaken, as has been shown. Prepa- 
rations were now commenced for the war in Bau with 
great spirit. Men and arms were collected, the gods 
were supplicated, and the war commenced by the burn- 
ing of several towns belonging to Rewa. The latter 
made but a faint resistance, and such was the success of 
Thakombau, that, had he known how to have followed it 
up, the war might have been ended in six months. 

At one time he, with his warriors, approached quite 
near the town of Rewa, which threw the inhabitants into 
such a fright, that had an attack then been made, he 
would have conquered. But having been st> near the 
place was glory enough for that time, and they returned 
to Bau to thank their gods and honor those who had 
been so successful as to kill any of the enemy during the 
expedition. The consequences of these delays were mur- 
ders, treachery and cannibalism on both sides. For the 
space of two years, scarcely a week passed without a 
cannibal feast at Bau. A large party of Bau warriors 
located themselves near Rewa, and were continually har- 
assing the town and its dependencies. If women went 
to fish, or men went to their plantations, they were sure 
to become food for their relentless foes. Rewa could do 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 167 

but little except to act upon the defensive; neither was 
it in its full strength, having been weakened by civil dis- 
sensions. This state had been governed by three bro- 
thers, the eldest of whom bore the title of king; the se- 
cond was Garenggeo, and the third has, of late, been 
called Phillips. The mother of the latter was a Bau 
woman of high rank, and his favorite wife was a niece of 
Tanoa, and sister of Vatai of Vewa. 

At the commencement of the war, Phillips took part 
with neither party; but, subsequently, having discover- 
ed that his eldest brother, the king, had been holding 
criminal intercourse with his favorite wife, he nearly 
killed her and joined Bau. He resided at a town called 
Nuque, quite near Rewa, where he had a fine opportu- 
nity to assist Bau. Thakombau promised Phillips that 
when Rewa was destroyed, he would rebuild it and make 
him its king. Thus the war was prosecuted with vigor 
on the part of Bau, and with marked success, too, though 
with the loss of some men, a great expense for food, 
presents to warriors and offerings to their deities. Some 
of the towns connected with Rewa displayed some cou- 
rage. There was one called Toketoke that resisted and 
defended itself nobly, till wearied by watching, and ex- 
hausted by hunger, the people turned to Bau. Seve- 
ral other towns joined Bau in the same manner, while 
others remained faithful to Rewa till the last. There is 
a district called Nakalu, that belonged to Rewa. Its 
chief is of high rank, and governed about ten towns. 
Thakombau sent to this chief, promising that if he would 
join Bau, when Rewa was destroyed he would give his 
sister to his son for a wife. This brilliant offer was not 
to be rejected. The chief joined his forces with Bau, and 
such was now its strength, that it could at any time have 
conquered its enemies, had it not lacked one important 



168 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

quality, namely, courage. The war has now terminated, 
as has been shown, by treachery. As it is the practice 
of warriors to disguise their faces with paint, it is diffi- 
cult to recognize one from another. Of the four hun- 
dred inhabitants that were massacred when Rewa was 
destroyed, two hundred were supposed to have been 
murdered by Rewa men. 

After Bau had accomplished its designs, Phillips re- 
minded its chiefs of their promise to rebuild Rewa and 
make him king. "By and by," they replied. " Wait 
a little." Phillips sent to several towns, saying, " Come 
to me and ' soro. 9 Your - soro 9 shall be received and 
your pardon granted." Many came, and their "soro 99 
was accepted; after which they were murdered and their 
bodies sent to Bau. So great was their supply of man- 
imal food, they were obliged to send to Somosomo for a 
reinforcement of cannibals to partake with them. 

Thus the famous war between these two powerful dis- 
tricts, which has been prosecuted for three years, is now, 
to all appearance, ended, and Thakombau has shown to 
his father that he loved him, and has avenged his insults. 
It is said that the old king cannot consume the quantity 
of his favorite food that he would like, on account of 
poor teeth. This must be a great annoyance to him. 

10. Mrs. Jaggar has related to me the following 
speech of my namesake, which shows that she has im- 
proved some during my absence. "I once hated the 
'him, 9 and I said in my heart, I never will join the ' lotu. 9 
When the missionaries passed my house, I would tell 
the big dog to bark at them. The chief killed Nalela at 
Bau, and then I wished to be killed too. J knew that his 
spirit had gone to the ' buka-ivaqa, 9 and I wished to go 
there with him. I was very angry that no one would 
kill me, and I said in my heart, I will kill myself. I will 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 169 

not ' lotu ' and go to heaven, where I cannot see Nalela. 
I thought about my husband all the time, and for many 
days I would not take food. At length I ate some food, 
and promised that 1 would c lotu ' when my days of 
mourning had ended, but still I hated it. After they had 
ended, however, I ' lotued ' because I had promised, and 
then I prayed to Jesus, not because I loved to pray to 
Him, but I knew it was the fashion for ' lotus ' to 
pray. After a little while, I began to love prayer. 
When I prayed I felt less unhappy, and I began to think 
more about Jesus Christ than of Nalela, and then I 
prayed very often that Jesus would make me good, that 
I might go to heaven and be forever happy. Jesus has 
made me see how foolish my former doings were, and 
I now hate my wicked conduct. I pray now with c a 
good mind,' that I may always love Jesus Christ and be 
good." This Marama has been a very wicked woman. 
Having rank and influence, she was always ready to as- 
sist in the wicked customs of her people. She has as- 
sisted in strangling many women, and it has been shown 
with what savage delight she exulted in the vengeance 
which had been taken of those who had murdered her 
relative. The tigress has now changed to a lamb. 
What has effected this change? — the gospel. Oh! ye 
enemies of missions, look at this woman as she was, and 
as she now is, in the full exhibition of the peaceful and 
lovely graces of the Christian, and shut your mouths! 
Put your hands in your purses, and contribute of your 
abundance. Dismiss all your fears about disturbing the 
minds of the heathen with the gospel. Believe me; the 
Saviour never would have employed missionaries if 
there had been no necessity for them. Send them the 
gospel, and civilization follows in its train. As soon as 
the natives of these isles renounce heathenism, they are 



170 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

anxious to obtain cloth to cover their persons, — their 
horrible feasts are looked upon with disgust, — they for- 
give their enemies, — become industrious, 8tc. 

It is very well to sit at home in our parlors and talk 
about the heathen; their very few wants; their happi- 
ness in the enjoyment of their rites; their freedom from 
the cares and perplexities of civilized life; the waste of 
property expended in sending the gospel to them; the 
beautiful country they enjoy (many of them). There is 
poetry in this; but go and see them in their degrada- 
tion, and your language, if you love the truth, will be 
changed, — I say if you are lovers of the truth. We 
know its enemies have always written in praise of hea- 
thenism, and endeavored (those that have been eye-wit- 
nesses,) to lay upon the shoulders of the missionaries 
the vices which they themselves have so abundantly 
dispensed among the heathen that have been cursed by 
their visits. I do not mean to say that there are none 
among the ministers of the gospel who are bad men. I 
believe there are such ; but their sins are not long 
concealed, and, on discovery, the good cast out from 
among them those who are unworthy. It should always 
be remembered, that among the twelve disciples of our 
Lord, there was one deceiver. There always were de- 
ceivers walking to and fro throughout the whole habi- 
table globe; — those in religion, politics, love, friend- 
ship, &c. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 171 



CHAPTER X. 



Visit to Bau — A Feejeean House — A Temple — Visit to a " Buri," — De- 
parture from Bau — Mock Piety of JNamosimalua — Departure from the 
Islands — Arrival at Manicola — Loss of Two French Ships — A Danger- 
ous Situation — The Island Flower-vase — Young Williams's Group — 
Straits of Bernardino. 



Jan. 11. Mr. and Mrs. Watsford, Mr. Hunt and my- 
self, made a visit to the capitol. On our arrival at the 
house of Thakombau, Samonunu called to us to come in. 
Her Highness was seated on several fine mats, and she 
invited us to be seated beside her. Thakombau soon 
joined the party, seating himself familiarly on the same. 
I was surprised at this, knowing that the Turaga-lavu 
usually occupies a place at some distance from the fe- 
males of the household. Mr. H. observed that he was 
very fond of Samonunu, and was often seen occupying 
a seat near her, and sometimes they have been known to 
eat together. Thakombau appears to possess sufficient 
independence to please himself, whether it is in ac- 
cordance with their customs or not. His house is the 
largest in Bau, measuring seventy-eight feet in length, 
thirty-six in width, and forty in height. Its posts, of 
which there are twelve inside, measure six feet in cir- 
cumference; the rafters are of bamboo; the sides are 
thatched with leaves, and the roof with a kind of long, 
tough grass. The house is all tied together; no ham- 
mer or nails are used in the building of a Feejeean 
dwelling. In the interior are two i( vatas," extending 
along the two ends and one side of the house, which are 
used as store houses. Several tutuves of native cloth 
were thrown over bamboos which are placed crosswise 



172 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

from the posts. These are let down at night, and form 
sleeping apartments. Each bed was composed of soft, 
dried grass, and formed with mathematical precision. 
They were elevated about one foot from the level of the 
floor, and covered with mats. I should never wish to 
occupy a better bed in a climate like this. Near the 
centre of the house, on one side, a trench about two feet 
in depth, contained their cooking utensils, which con- 
sisted of a whaler's try-pot, and several native " kurus " 
of different sizes. Every house has a similar trench, 
where the cooking is done; nor is the inconvenience 
from the smoke so great as one would think, for there 
are so many doors to their houses that the smoke es- 
capes without inconvenience to the inmates. The house 
of the chief contained several Canton trunks, some doz- 
ens of muskets and kegs of powder, large rolls of cinnet 
and native cloth, a large looking-glass, with many other 
articles valuable to a Feejeean. The dwelling was per- 
fectly neat, every thing appeared to be in its place, and 
the floor was entirely covered with new mats. When 
we departed, His Majesty presented me with a valuable 
and curious war club to show the Americans. 

Bau is a small place, but well filled with people. The 
Bau tribe occupy one portion of the place, — the Lasakau 
another, — and the Soso tribe a third. There is a small 
elevation on the island where they bury their dead. In 
or near the central part of the isle is an open, level 
space, called the " rara." Here they meet to transact 
public business, to hold solavus, to prepare the slaugh- 
tered for the ovens, to carve the bodies after they have 
been cooked, to hold their festive pastimes, &c. Near 
the " vara " is the public hotel. This is a large build- 
ing where strangers are entertained, of whom there are 
large numbers usually in Bau. At present it is occu- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 173 

pied by the Tonguese visitors from Lakemba. The 
Tonga chief, however, with his wives and their personal 
attendants, occupy a new house near the hotel. We 
called on him, and I received the promised mat, which 
is really a fine one, measuring four fathoms in length 
and one in breadth. 

Having gained permission of Thakombau to enter the 
great " buri" of the city, we repaired thither. When 
we reached it, several of the aristocracy were about the 
place, and seeing that we were going to enter, looked 
quite displeased, and said that no woman had ever been 
inside of a " 6wri," and it was a very great "tambu." 
Mr. Hunt stopped to talk with them, and try to gain per- 
mission for us to go in, as was proper for him to do, 
knowing as he did the rank of the parties. While this 
was going on, I quietly slipped my arm from that of Mr. 
H., and thinking my ofFenee might be attributed to my 
ignorance, I hastened into the sacred building. On 
seeing this, the natives left talking, and looked astonished 
at so unheard of a thing in Feejee. Mr. and Mrs. Wats- 
ford and Mr. Hunt followed. We met, however, with 
but little to reward our perseverance. If we may judge 
of the devotion of the people by their offerings, their re- 
ligion is certainly at a very low ebb. The temple con- 
tained nothing save one solitary roll of cinnet, and a 
small quantity of native cloth. One breadth of white 
cs masi " was suspended from the ridge-pole of the tem- 
ple to the floor. The spirit remains between that and 
the thatching of the house, and when the priest wishes to 
consult it, he seats himself in front of the "masi," where 
he commences a regular set of convulsions, which he 
declares is occasioned by the spirit entering into his wor- 
thy self. The spirit is consulted chiefly about their wars 
and in cases of sickness. A short time since, Samonunu 



174 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

was sick. Thakombau attended at the " buri," and de- 
sired the priest to inquire of his god-ship whether she 
would recover. The answer was, that she would if her 
husband would give him a horse (there are two in Bau). 
Thakombau said, u We are quite near Vewa. It is very 
easy to send the Marama there to be cured by the mis- 
sionaries. Why did not the god ask something less dif- 
ficult? I shall not give him a horse." The abashed 
god, frightened at the bold speech of the chief, withdrew 
his demand, and cured the Marama with some inferior 
gift. I don't think that Thakombau is very pious. It is 
said that the gods were never denied their requests be- 
fore. 

10. As we came out of the temple, we met Rokotuim- 
bau, a great chief of this town of great chiefs. He had 
been informed of the important fact that two females had 
entered the sacred edifice, and was very angry about it. 
He is a heathen "of the first water," ardently devoted 
to his gods, and I presume would not have denied them 
two horses, had he possessed them, and they had been 
required. The angry chief looked as though he would 
like to bite us, and remarked that no women were al- 
lowed to go inside the c '6«ri." We happened to know 
that, but we had violated the tambu in spite of him, and 
there was no help for him. I tried to look very sweetly 
at him, and Mrs. Watsford did look so, for she possesses 
a lovely countenance; but he still appeared displeased. 
Mr. Hunt toid him that we had received free permission 
from Thakombau, but his looks seemed to say, tc Who is 
he to give leave that our temple should be desecrated 
in such a manner?" We left him to his own cogitations 
on the steps of the " buri," and repaired to the dwelling 
of Vakambua, one of the lords of the court, who has the 
charge of the princess — my little namesake. We found 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 175 

her pined almost to a skeleton, and evidently near the 
grave. Before leaving, we called at the house of Tanoa; 
he had gone to attend a ceremony on the spot where 
Rewa stood, called quenching the fires of Rewa. There 
we saw the mother of the murdered king; she is very 
aged, Iquite deaf, and nearly blind. On being informed 
who I was, she showed the most extravagant fondness, 
saying that she had never thought to see the wife of Mr. 
Wallis, whom she had known so long. We saw, too, 
the mother of Revelete, the wife of Garenggeo, and two 
of his children. Several of his children had been mur- 
dered. We saw, also, several daughters and one son of 
the late king. The husband of one of the daughters had 
been killed during the war. These all occupied the 
largest of the king's houses. His queen, with her chil- 
dren and their attendants, dwelt in the same building, but 
the captives kept by themselves. Some were reclining 
on mats, some were cooking and others were making 
" lekus." None looked very happy. The women of 
rank, however, are not degraded. They are treated 
with all the ceremony of their station, and still served by 
numerous attendants. After seeing every thing to be 
seen, we left the cannibal city, and visited the bark. 
The commander invited us to remain and dine; after this 
we returned to Vewa. 

12. Mary Wallis presented me with a fine, large pig, 
saying, "that was her love to me;" also a handsome 
cs kale " (pillow), which had been her husband's. I have 
been honored with visitors all day, who came to express 
their love to me, and last, not least, to indulge their beg- 
ging propensities. 

13. Messrs. Hunt and Watsford have left this place 
to visit some of the out-stations, expecting to be absent 
one month. The Tonga chief came to see me, expecting 



176 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

a present in return for the one he made me. I gave him 
a full equivalent. He did not appear satisfied, and went 
on begging. I told him that I was greatly ashamed 
that I was not better acquainted with their customs, — 
that when he gave me a mat, I should have begged 
a pig too. Samonunu came, and presented me witlf some 
mats, saying she had ordered, others to be made, but we 
should sail too soon to receive them. I told her they 
would be just as acceptable when we returned. 

In the afternoon we visited at Elijah's, and also called 
on Mary Wallis. While at Elijah's, I said, taking hold 
of a Feejeean umbrella, " This is a very nice umbrella." 
"If you think so, will you take it?" said the Marama. 
"No," I replied. "You have already presented me 
with one quite as good, and that is enough." " I know 
that we are poor, and have nothing worthy to offer you; 
but why should the umbrella hang in my house, when 
you have said that it is good." I accepted it, feeling 
that I gratified the donor. As I expected tG sail in the 
morning for Manilla, I took leave of them. We were 
followed home by servants, bearing large bunches of ba- 
nanas, which were left on my door-steps. 

In the evening my husband came for me, and we were 
accompanied to the boat by the mission families, Vatai, 
Mary Wallis, and many others. I had received some 
little token of remembrance from them all, and we parted 
with mutual assurances of friendship. I can scarcely 
express my feelings towards those dear families of the 
mission who took me into their dwellings, and allowed 
me so good a share of their affections. My intercourse 
with them has been truly delightful. The religion which 
they profess, and teach, and practise, renders them lovely 
in their whole deportment. During a residence of ten 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 177 

years in this group, they have ever maintained love and 
harmony among themselves. 

16. We anchored at Ovalau; Elijah took leave of us 
here, and on the seventeenth we sailed for Raverave. 

20. Anchored at Raverave, in sight of the brig Eliz- 
abeth, of Salem. In the evening, we were surprised and 
pleased to receive a visit from Messrs. Hunt and Wats- 
ford, accompanied by Capt. King. The former had ar- 
rived here the day previous. 

Namosimalua has been on board the Elizabeth for 
some time past. 

21. Mr. W. dined on board the Elizabeth, and on his 
return to the bark was accompanied by Capt. King, and 
Messrs. Hunt and Watsford, who took tea, and passed 
the evening with us. It is a very rare thing in Feejee 
to have company to tea. 

21. We are informed that a large canoe belonging to 
Elijah is here from Vewa, with several of the Vewa 
Christians on board, and a special message came in it to 
the chief of Bunda, from Thakombau, requesting him to 
kill Namosimalua and all the Vewa Christians he could 
come at; then take possession of the canoe, and load it 
with riches that had belonged to Revelete, and come to 
Bau, where they should be suitably rewarded. The 
Bunda chief replied, " that Thakombau might do his own 
work." The messenger then requested Narnosi to visit 
Ba, and receive some pigs for Bau. Namosi declined; 
going, feeling, probably, that the invitation was like that 
of the spider, when he said to the fly, " Will you walk 
into my parlor?" He has heard of the whole affair, and 
is exceedingly alarmed. He says that Bau will never be 
satisfied till he is killed. 

As usual, when danger threatens, he is very pious, prays 
a great deal, and leads a most devotional life. He con- 
12 



178 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ducts precisely as the Jews did in the wilderness. I was 
much amused once, on witnessing one of his devotional 
acts at Vewa. He has always been desirous of joining 
the church, as he has a particular fondness for one of the 
elements of the communion; namely, the wine. One 
sacramental day I was walking in front of Mr. Hunt's 
dwelling, and observed Namosi pacing to and fro, and 
often casting a glance towards the chapel. At length 
one appeared, bringing the bread and wine which had 
been left from the communion. Namosi darted forward, 
snatched the goblet, and swallowing its contents, re- 
turned the empty vessel, smacked his lips, and walked 
off. 

22. We took leave of our friends, and sailed for Ba, 
where we arrived about noon, and anchored, hoping to 
procure yams, but no canoes came off. 

There is a little tale connected with this place, which 
shows why the natives would not visit us. It appears 
that the vessel to which Mr. W. belonged in the year 
1835, visited this coast. On their arrival at Ba, a chief, 
accompanied by several natives, came to the vessel to 
dispose of shell. His price was more than the captain 
thought it worth, who told him that he must send to the 
shore, and have more of the article brought, when he 
would trade for the whole. The captain no doubt thought 
that there was a large quantity of shell on shore, and he 
was desirous to obtain it. The chief declared that he 
had no more, and the captain said that he should be de- 
tained till more was brought. Some of the natives were 
now frightened, and jumped into their canoes. The chief 
was about to follow, but was prevented by the captain, 
who placed one of his men with a loaded musket over 
him, with orders to shoot him if he attempted to escape. 
Mr. W. thinking there would be trouble, went below for 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 179 

his pistols; while there, he heard the report of a musket, 
which was followed by others. He hastened on deck, 
and saw the bleeding chief in the water; he had been 
shot. The captain now ordered his men to fire upon the 
natives. They had, however, left their canoes, and by 
diving escaped the fire, and only one beside the chief 
was killed. The captain next ordered the boat to be 
lowered, and his crew to go and kill as many of the na- 
tives as possible. Mr. W. remarked that there were 
natives enough to upset the boat and kill all hands. The 
next order issued by the captain, was, to get the brig 
under way, which was obeyed with alacrity. As they 
were going out among the reefs, a canoe passed, and the 
captain ordered his people to fire into it. Mr. W. was 
at mast head, looking out for the reefs. He heard the 
order, and sung out, "Hard down your helm!" The 
order was obeyed, and the canoe escaped. 

The captain has not, hitherto, been blamed for this af- 
fair among the natives of this coast, who, it is said, all 
believe that Mr. W. was the captain of the aforesaid ves- 
sel, and that it was by his order the chief was shot, al- 
though the several commanders who have since visited 
the coast, have endeavored to inform them correctly how 
the affair occurred. This people have been called the 
most barbarous of Feejee. It is difficult to determine 
how they have acquired the name, as it is almost the only 
place where no white people have been murdered. Fee- 
jeeans usually avenge their wrongs upon the first who 
come in their way, who belong to the class that has 
wronged them, as has been shown in the account of the 
murder of Wilson. In this case, however, it is said that, 
contrary to their usual custom, they are waiting to get 
possession of Mr. W., or some of his people if they can- 
not get him, which they would much prefer, to wreak 



180 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

their long pent-up vengeance upon. We have been told 
that soon after the murder of the chief, a " buri " was 
built, which has not been opened on account of their in- 
ability to procure the proper subject for its dedication, 
which is no less a personage than my husband. Don't 
think they'll get him — can't conveniently let him be used 
for such a purpose. 

23. Sailed for, and anchored at Bunda. Collected 
yams along the coast. 

27. An order was given to man the windlass, which 
was received by the crew with three cheers; and cheerily 
the order was obeyed, our sails were spread, the wind 
favored our departure, and the lands of Feejee, with all 
their man-ealing savages, were soon lost in the distance*. 
Our number was whole; none had suffered from contact 
with cannibal ivory. 

Feb. 1. The ocean is cross — I feel cross — the vessel 
rolls — I roll, and every thing rolls that is not tied. That 
tormenting, vexing, fretting sea-monster — sea-sickness, 
is prowling about, preventing me from working, reading, 
writing, sitting, sleeping, and every other known "ing," 
except hanging, which I have not yet tried. Besides all 
this, it makes horrible faces at me when there is food in 
sight. However, although I can have no comfort, I 
am not prostrated, as on the passage out. 

2. Arrived off the island of Manicola. This island is 
the largest in the group in Charlotte's Archipelago. In 
or about the year 1804, two French surveying ships were 
lost on a reef which surrounds Manicola. The name of 
one ship was Astrolabe, and nothing was for many years 
heard from the missing vessels. At length a man named 
Dillon (the same who visited Feejee and had a battle 
with the natives when Charles Savage was killed) was 
sailing about these seas, and picked up a native from 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 181 

some island near Manicola. From him he received some 
hints, which led him to think that the vessels were lost at 
that island. A large reward had been offered to any who 
would bring intelligence of the lost ships. Dillon went 
to Bombay in the year 1826 and succeeded in obtaining 
command of a suitable vessel from some merchants, then 
sailed for Manicola. He stopped at the island, and took 
the native before mentioned on board, and arrived at 
Manicola. The man on board appeared well known at 
the island, and through him Capt. D. held communication 
with the natives. The inhabitants of Manicola treated 
Capt. D. and his people in the most civil manner. They 
showed him some iron spikes, which they said had be- 
longed to the lost vessels, and a part of a ship's bell, and 
several other articles, which evinced the fact that the 
ships had been lost somewhere in this region. The na- 
tives stated that the vessels struck on the reef and went 
to pieces; that a small craft was built from the wreck, 
and the people sailed away in it. The latter may be 
true, and it may not; no one has lived to tell the tale. 
Capt. Dillon sailed for France, where he made known 
the fate of the vessels, of which nothing had been heard 
for twenty-two years. He received the promised reward, 
and the title of Chevalier, besides many costly presents, 
and was made a rich man at once. 

Within the barrier reef are to be seen numerous small- 
er ones, and shoals. As we were running for the isle 
with a fair wind, Mr. W. came below for a few moments, 
telling the mate to look out sharp till he returned. On 
his return to the deck, I heard him exclaim, " By 
heavens! Mr. Jones, we are inside this dangerous reef." 
There we were, sure enough; and how should we get 
out again? There was but one opening to be seen, and 
we had entered by that which was very narrow; the wind 



18 c 2 LIFEINFEEJEE. 

was fair for our entrance, and of course it was directly 
against our returning by the same passage, and there 
was no room to beat. Is the fate of the missing vessels 
to be ours? I thought, as I looked over the side into the 
clear waters beneath, and observed several sunken rocks, 
which threatened every moment to make some large holes 
in the bottom of the vessel. For a moment all appeared 
paralyzed; the stillness of death reigned; but it was for 
a moment only, and was soon broken by the voice of the 
captain, saying, " There is one little spot where the 
water appears somewhat deeper on the reef than any 
where else. Down with the boat and sound it!" The 
boat was lowered, the mate and four hands sprung into 
it, and rowed for the place. Two' fathoms of water were 
found upon it, and we passed over in safety. The wind 
had died away nearly calm, and the waters were so still 
and smooth that all their hidden dangers were plainly re- 
vealed to the eye, as we passed on our dangerous way. 
Each one appeared to hold his breath, that he might 
catch the first sound of the grating keel. But that kind 
Providence that has preserved us from harm during our 
voyage, saved us from this danger also. 

After the vessel had cleared the reef, we sailed in 
what is marked on the chart as "Dillon's track," and 
went into a small bay, where, it is said, Dillon anchored. 
We sailed within ten rods of the shore, but could find no 
anchorage. Mr. W. remarked that the bottom must have 
dropped out since Capt. D.'s visit. Our bark was too 
unwieldy, and our cargo was deemed too valuable to risk 
its safety among these unknown waters, and we left them 
without making any discovery in the "beech de mer" 
line. The island of Manicola is of volcanic formation, 
and its inhabitants are of a dark brown color, and have 
coarse woolly hair, like the Feejeeans. We approached 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 183 

on the south side, which,, evidently, was not inhabited. 
Hill, mountain and glen presented to the eye a dense 
forest of trees. 

3. We came in sight of a small cluster of islands 
called Duff's group, in the same archipelago as the 
group that we passed yesterday. There are seven, 
which are also of volcanic origin. They present to the 
eye solid masses of verdure. On one of the isles, a col- 
umn is seen, of perhaps fifty or sixty feet in height, but 
appears from the vessel of small circumference. This 
column is covered with verdure, probably creeping plants, 
and on its top are some half dozen trees, which seem to 
say, " Come and repose under my shade if you can." 

I have seen nothing so pretty as that island flower-vase, 
since I became a sailor. It was too beautiful ever to be 
forgotten. On one island several houses were to be seen 
that appeared like Feejeean architecture. No inhabi- 
tants or canoes were visible. My curiosity was greater 
than my prudence, and I begged Mr. W. to send a boat 
ashore, and let me go and " sara sara." He made me 
no answer, but smiled, and raised his hand to the wind. 
" Oh, there is just wind enough," I said. iC Get out the 
fore-topmast studding-sail!" shouted the captain. "Get 
out the fore-topmast studding-sail!" echoed the mate. 
" Aye, aye, sir," responded the crew, and away we went, 
leaving Duff's group, its unknown inhabitants, its elegant 
flower-vase — all to disappear in the distance. 

27. We arrived at a group of islands called the 
Young Williams's group. We counted eighteen in num- 
ber, all of coral formation, and appearing scarcely above 
the level of the sea. Those that were near us were 
covered with cocoa-nut trees. We sailed by one of the 
largest isles, and soon observed some of its tawnies, men, 
women and children, all racing along the sand beach, 



184 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

shouting to us at the top of their voices, while some were 
showing a white flag to induce us, as we supposed, to 
anchor and honor them with a visit. We soon saw sev- 
eral canoes approaching, filled with natives. The bark 
was hove to, and two of the natives came on board. 
They were shown some " beech de mer " and they signi- 
fied by signs that there was a plenty of the article on the 
reefs. Weapons were shown to them, both savage and 
civilized (if there are such things as civilized weapons; 
I believe there is but one — a broomstick), but they did 
not seem to understand their uses. They exhibited much 
astonishment at sight of the pigs, and appeared to have 
had but little, if any, intercourse with vessels. They 
brought cocoa-nuts, and received in return fish-hooks. 

These islanders are a very handsome race, light col- 
ored, no beards, and fine black hair, which they wore 
long; a few wore it hanging loosely down behind, but 
the most of them had it twisted and brought to the top of 
the head, where it was confined, and a small wreath of 
flowers was worn over it. The young men resembled, 
at a little distance, very pretty girls, and such we at 
first thought them. Several wore flowers in their ears, 
and all had pieces of native cloth, but were not particu- 
lar in its arrangement till I appeared on deck, when all 
who were in the canoes proceeded to cover their per- 
sons in a proper manner. Those who had come on 
board had previously done so. Their cloth resembled 
coarse canvass, and was about half a yard in width. 
Two breadths were fastened together, and an opening 
left in the centre ; the head was passed through the 
opening, and the cloth falling loosely before and behind, 
gave the wearers a very decent appearance. Their fea- 
tures were regular, — their teeth beautiful, — their eyes 
\ery bright, but mild in their expression. The arms of 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 185 

some were tattooed in delicate parallel lines, from the 
shoulders to the elbows. They were decidedly the 
handsomest race of men that I have seen in the South 
Seas. No women came off, — a sure evidence that they 
have not yet been cursed by intercourse with whaling 
vessels. 

March 8. We are in sight of the Philippine Islands. 
Farewell to sea-sickness for one month. This disagree- 
able sensation has accompanied me in some degree ever 
since I left Feejee. At no time have I been free from it 
for one day. 

Hail! ye green isles of the ocean! How many verses 
would I write in your praise, if I could! 

9. Last evening, at seven o'clock, we entered the 
straits of St. Bernardino. How delightful the prospect! 
How glorious appeared the rising sun! Ah! I thought, 
I must sing, but I suddenly recollected that the sound of 
my voice would destroy all the harmony of the scene. 

Soon after sunrise we passed a volcanic mountain. 
Smoke was issuing from its top, and as there was no 
wind, it descended to its base, and the mount appeared 
to be resting on a heavy mass of clouds. It is about six 
years since its fires have been seen. 



CHAPTER II. 

Arrival at Manilla — Its Inhabitants — Its Buildings — Bazars — Visit to the 
Pina Factory — The Kscolta — Departure from Manilla — Return to the 
Young Williams's Group — Its Inhabitants — Our Departure — The Green- 
wich Islands — The Dangerous Reef— Pleasant Island. 

March 10. Arrived at Manilla. 

11. Having received an invitation from the gentlemen 
of the well-known firm of Peel, Hubbell & Co., we have 



136 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

to-day removed to their spacious dwelling. The house 
is one of the largest, if not the largest in Manilla, and 
built, I presume, like all Spanish houses in warm cli- 
mates. Not understanding the art, or even the techni- 
cal terms of architecture, I will not attempt a descrip- 
tion. I perceive, however, that the building is situated 
on the margin of a river, opposite the city, and the river 
is well filled with vessels of different kinds, from whence 
issue sounds of all sorts. I have learned that it is not 
the fashion for foreign ladies to make much use of their 
feet. Carriages and servants are provided. 

12. Yesterday Mr. W. having engaged a carriage 
and coachman for the time that we remain here, we 
started, after dinner, for a drive into the country. We 
first passed through several crowded streets in the sub- 
urbs, and then came into the open country. The land 
is perfectly level, the roads smooth, our carriage easy, 
and we enjoyed a most delightful ride. It was far more 
agreeable than riding o'er the mountain wave. 

13. During our afternoon drive, we took a view of 
the city of Manilla. It is enclosed by a massive wall, 
outside of which are several draw-bridges, which afford 
entrance to the city. I believe that no foreigners reside 
within the walls, — the place being mostly occupied by 
the Governor and those connected with Government. 
In the evening we received a call from Capt. Doane and 
his wife, of ship Congaree, of Boston. 

14. Last evening we rode into the city, to listen to 
music played by four different bands belonging to the 
army. These bands are composed of native musicians, 
who play each a quarter of an hour in the square oppo- 
site the Governor's palace, and then repair to the Cal- 
sada and play another hour. Marches and martial tunes 
are played during half the time, and the other half, waltz- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 187 

es, songs, &c. As near as I could judge, they played 
with taste and skill. These musical banquets are given 
semi-weekly. 

15. The inhabitants of the suburbs are exceedingly 
numerous, and I am always glad when we have passed 
their crowded thoroughfares. The bazars are extensive 
and numerous, and are held by the natives. Besides 
these, nearly every native house that is situated on the 
roads leading into the open country, has its booth in 
front containing provisions. Spirituous liquors are ob- 
served for sale in great abundance; yet among all the 
crowds of Manilla, I have not seen one intoxicated per- 
son. The suburbs are divided into towns, or rather dis- 
tricts, each one having its church, its padres and spies, 
and all other things appertaining to Popery. Of the 
Spanish government I know nothing, therefore can 
write nothing; but will leave the subject to others. 

16. During our afternoon drives I have observed that 
the dwelling-houses of Manilla appear to consist of three 
classes. First, the heavy stone edifices, with their red 
tiled roofs, which are occupied by Spanish and Euro- 
pean residents of distinction; second, those of wood and 
bamboo, or such appear to be the materials, with a roof 
of thatch; a little veranda runs along the front, which is 
often prettily ornamented. Owing to the occurrence of 
earthquakes, no glass is used for windows, but small 
panes of pearl shell instead. This class of buildings ap- 
pears to be inhabited by the better or richer sort of In- 
dians. Then comes the third and lowest class; these 
are built of bamboo and grass, and the most of them are 
in the most dilapidated condition. Their inhabitants ap- 
pear to care far less about their personal comfort than 
the savages we so lately left on the islands of the South 
Pacific. These dwellings, however, are not uncom- 



188 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

fortable at this season of the year, when their occupants 
live mostly in the open air; but how they contrive to 
keep dry during the rainy season, is more than I can de- 
termine. Owing to the miasma arising from the humid- 
ity of the country, the churches and stone buildings 
present an ancient appearance ; indeed, some of the 
churches are of ancient date, having been built some 
two hundred and fifty years. Opposite the front of the 
house of which I am now an inmate, stands an ancient 
building that was used as an Inquisition about sixty 
years ago, when Inquisitors and Inquisitions were tole- 
rated. I often gaze on the small apertures which once 
afforded their little quantum of light to the dungeons of the 
prisoners, and fancy what must have been their emotions. 
The young and the lovely have no doubt been immured 
within its walls for the vilest of purposes, and their end 
was death. Who shall describe the manner of it? 

In the evening we called at the mansion of Mr. Stur- 
gis, United States' Consul, to see Capt. Doane and his 
wife, but they had left for their vessel, expecting to sail 
in the morning. Mrs. D. has accompanied her husband 
in his sea voyages for eleven years past. 

17. Mr. W. called on board the Congaree. Mrs. D. 
sent me a dear little lap-dog, with a black nose and two 
bright black eyes. As I have no pet, I expect to love it 
very much. At noon Mr. Edwards sent to my room a 
ripe pomegranate, which was quite a curiosity to me. 
The fruit was full of seeds, which reminded me of one of 
the Arabian tales. 

20. It is the custom of the Spanish, as well as In- 
dian ladies, to smoke cigars, and sometimes, though not 
frequently, I have seen well-dressed ladies in their car- 
riages indulging in this highly delicate and refined lux- 
ury. The native Indians all use the odorous herb, and 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 189 

to-day, as we spoke of visiting the Pina establishment, 
one of the gentlemen of the house remarked that if a 
cigar was offered me, I must not decline the civility. 

At the manufactory we were shown some most beauti- 
fully embroidered articles, consisting of mantles, shawls, 
handkerchiefs, collars, capes and Coifs, — all of which 
are done with the sewing needle by native women. It is 
not known from whence they acquired this beautiful art; 
some suppose from the Japanese. Before our departure, 
we were offered chocolate and cigars from a silver tray. 
I remembered the advice heretofore given; consequent- 
ly, I took a cup of chocolate, while Mr. W. helped him- 
self to a cigar. 

21. During our pleasant rides, I have often observed 
negroes mingling, here and there, amidst this dense 
population. I am told that they are from the interior 
of the island, and that the original inhabitants of these 
isles are of that race. They have been driven from the 
coasts, no one knows where, but have not become ex- 
tinct. Manilla is situated on the largest of the Philip- 
pines. The Spanish took possession of the place some 
three hundred years ago. Since then, for a time, it was 
in the hands of the English, from whom it was ransomed 
in 1809. The native population is estimated at two hun- 
dred thousand, and the white residents are about four 
thousand. An army of fifteen thousand natives, com- 
manded mostly by Spanish officers, is maintained by the 
Government for the safety of the whole. To prevent 
conspiracies and revolt in the army, it is composed of 
natives from the different provinces, who, speaking a 
different dialect, can hold but little communication with 
each other. Frequent changes are also made from one 
division to another. 

About nine o'clock in the evening, which is the fash- 



190 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ionable hour for making calls, Mr. Sturgis and lady 
called to see us. We regretted much that we were away. 
I presume that this journal would scarcely be recog- 
nized as having been penned by a female, unless there 
should be a word, now and then, about dress. The 
Spanish and European ladies wear dresses of white mus- 
lin, made after the Parisian and London fashions, with 
the exception of the sleeves, which are worn short. The 
Spanish ladies wear no bonnets or caps, but the English 
wear both. There are not more than half a dozen of the 
latter in the place. The elderly Spanish ladies wear 
their hair combed straight back from the forehead, over 
the top of the head, — a most unbecoming fashion. The 
younger ones dress their hair plainly, as many do with 
us at home. No curls are worn, nor is a stray hair al- 
lowed to wander from the fold. It is said that the Span- 
ish ladies wear no stockings. This may be slander. I 
had no opportunity for personal observation. 

The costume of the Mestizoes consists of a full skirt 
of a bright plaid gingham or silk, and a short jacket of 
some thin material; a handkerchief is often worn over 
the shoulders. These are of various descriptions; some 
are pina, and others are of muslin or lace, which are 
embroidered; their raven tresses shining and beautiful, 
are confined by golden ornaments. The Indian women 
wear a plain piece of cloth, without plait or fold, fasten- 
ed to the waist and falling to the feet; a jacket and 
handkerchief, as above described, cover the upper parts 
of their persons. Many wear their beautiful hair hang- 
ing loosely behind. Four of their toes are thrust into a 
beautifully embroidered slipper without heels. 

23. On our arrival at this place, I was informed that 
ladies did not go a shopping, but purchased all that was 
wanted at their own dwellings, where the articles were 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 191 

brought by the shopmen. After my informant had left 
the room, I exclaimed, " Not go a shopping! A lady 
not go a shopping! Who originated so barbarous a cus- 
tom? Some bachelors I ; oh, no, not any of that 

class; but some cross, miserly, money-loving Benedict 
must have instituted a custom so savage. Not go a 
shopping!" 1 muttered in a loud tone. I then remained 
silent for a time, deeply cogitating; the result of my cog- 
itations I will record for the benefit of those who may be 
similarly situated. I am a stranger, I thought, a so- 
journer for a short time. I expect to become acquainted 
with no one out of this house. I would do nothing to 
disgrace its honorable occupants, but I must be con- 
vinced that going a shopping will do so before I can de- 
prive myself of the indulgence. I have no particular 
caste to lose, and I will go a shopping. 

There is a certain street in Manilla called the Es- 
colta. On each side of the street are rows of low, 
mean-looking buildings; but one scarcely notices these, 
for inside are all sorts of fine things kept for sale by Chi- 
nese shopmen. Accordingly, in pursuance of my deter- 
mination, we sometimes visited these Chinese reposito- 
ries. On entering one of these shops, we admired the 
neatness with which their goods were arranged. Each 
building is precisely of the same form and dimensions, 
consequently, there is no variety. A small apartment 
fronts the street, and one supposes, on entering the shop, 
they see all it contains; but this is not the case. Oppo- 
site the entrance, a very narrow door is perceived. One 
day we asked to look at some crape shawls. We saw 
the man squeeze through a narrow door; we did the 
same, and I found that we had entered an apartment of 
equal dimensions with the front. As Mr. W. was en- 
gaged in conversation with the shopman, I slipped 



192 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

through another door, and continued my way till I had 
passed through five or six similar apartments, filled with 
rich goods. We found English piece goods a little 
cheaper than they can be obtained at our stores. There 
is an abundance of Chinese curiosities and toys, no 
doubt, for sale in Manilla, but I can never learn where; 
therefore, the numerous nephews and nieces will be none 
the richer for aunt Mary's visit to the Eastern city. 

24. Called at the mansion of Mr. Sturgis; but we 
were too early, for they had not returned from their ride. 
We left our cards with the porter at the gate. 

Whatever streets we pass, and wherever we go, we 
meet an abundance of " Holy Fathers." Some are clad 
in white gowns, others in black, blue and gray. They 
wear enormous black hats, with less than a yard of brim 
rolled up at the sides. These gowned persons, I pre- 
sume, keep the natives more in awe than the army; they 
are like flies, — in every body's mess. Some of them are 
very corpulent, and rather roguish looking. They gen- 
erally reside in monasteries connected with the churches. 

There were, in times past, numerous holidays during 
the year, in which ceremonies were performed relating 
to Popery, but they are now reduced to about twenty- 
five; six being held at Christmas. 

The amusements of the lower orders are cock-fighting 
and kite-flying, which usually occur on Sundays and 
holidays. The fowls are trained with the greatest ten- 
derness and care. A short time since, the dwelling of a 
poor man was discovered in flames. One of his children 
(a babe) and his chanticleer were its only occupants; 
and as the man could save but one, the fowl was saved 
and the babe perished. A neighbor asked why he did 
not save his child, instead of the fowl. "The fowl," re- 
plied the affectionate parent, "earns me bread, and my 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 193 

child only consumes it." The doors of the churches are 
surrounded by natives, each with a noble looking crower 
in his arms, waiting the appearance of its owner from 
their confessions and prayers. It is too bad that the 
fowls are not allowed to enter the churches and receive 
absolution with their masters. 

25. An account of one day in Manilla is a history 
of the whole. We rise at any hour we choose, and ring 
for a cup of coffee, tea, or chocolate; breakfast at ten, 
partake of a lunch at one, dine at four, and ride till 
dark, if we choose. On our return repair to the piazza, 
sip a cup of tea, after which, if there is music, go and 
listen to it; if not, go and ride on the Calsada, or re- 
main at home, just as we choose. The gentlemen of the 
firm of Peel, Hubbell &, Co., have shown every attention, 
to our convenience and personal comfort, for which we 
owe them many thanks. 

April 1. Mr. W. having completed the sale of his 
cargo to some profit, and brought his affairs to a close, 
we took leave of our hospitable entertainers and em- 
barked on board the Zotoff. Here I found that some 
changes had been made. The chief mate had been dis- 
charged, and the second mate had been promoted to fill 
the vacancy. A foreigner had been chosen from the 
forecastle to act as second mate. Mr. Smith, the mate, 
and one or two of the crew objected to going on the next 
voyage, unless one of the sailors (an American) who 
was shipped in Salem, and who had been the cause of 
exciting a great deal of ill-feeling during the voyage, 
should be discharged. Many complaints of the man had 
been entered to the captain, but he was so fair to the 
face, and so smart and active, that a deaf ear had been 
turned to them all. On our arrival at Manilla, how- 
13 



194 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ever, he was fully convinced of the fellow's mischief- 
making propensities, and he was discharged forthwith. 
On going ashore, he asserted that he was the son-in-law 
of one of our most respectable Salem merchants, having 
married his daughter. The truth was, he had married 
a servant of the same. On our passage to the bark, we 
had been told by the Government officer who accom- 
panied us, that two sailors, deserters from the United 
States ship Columbus, who had left Manilla a few days 
previous, were secreted on board the bark. On our ar- 
rival, inquiry was made, but no one had seen them. 
The Columhus remained in Manilla but a few days, as 
the cholera appeared on board in its most malignant 
form. Several died and many new cases occurred. 

Our land comforts are ended for the present, — our 
carriage is dismissed, — white dresses and all finery are 
laid aside, — our anchor is again raised, and we depart 
to visit unknown lands and sail o'er lonely seas. Should 
I not shed a tear at this place? 

M Life's an ever changing scene, 
Ever onward, ne'er at rest." 

8. We are now clear of shoals, rocks and islands, 
and are once more upon the open sea, with the 
pleasing variety of ocean and sky one day, and sky 
and ocean the next. We left Manilla by the Bashee 
passage. As we entered the bay of Manilla by the 
Straits of St. Bernardino, we have now made the entire 
circuit of Luzon. The island is about one thousand and 
fifty miles in circumference. The second day out, the 
two deserters from the United States ship Columbus ap- 
peared on the deck of our vessel. I presume that they 
had become hungry. They stated that they succeeded 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 195 

in secreting themselves on board the day before the ves- 
sel sailed from M. One of the men is an Italian, and 
had been on board the Columbus nearly three years, 
which was the time he enlisted for. In a few months he 
would have been entitled to his discharge, and received 
his pay. Now he has forfeited the whole, and owns only 
the clothes that he is wearing. He does not complain 
of ill-treatment, but gives as a reason for his desertion 
his desire of change. Truly, a sailor is like the sea, 
{i ever restless, ever changing." The other deserter is 
a stupid looking fellow, of no particular nation, I believe. 
June 7. We passed a group of islands of coral form- 
ation, called Hasrny's Group. We have been chased 
by two enormous sharks. They were hungry, and we 
gave them no food. During our passage thus far, we 
have had continual head winds with very light breezes. 
We have lost by death several turkeys, and a number of 
the long-faced gentry. Their change of life, probably, 
did not agree with their constitutions. A monkey lies 
very ill with ill usage from his master, (one of the 
sailors,) who beats him every day to make him love him. 
I think the man must have taken lessons of some Irish 
husbands of the lower order; but the poor little mon- 
key's affections are not to be gained by " the bating." 

10. We anchored in a fine little lagoon at the Young 
Williams's group, after a passage of sixty-seven days 
from Manilla. We run the distance from here to Ma- 
nilla in fourteen days. We have on board numerous 
visitors, who signified by signs that they had recognized 
our vessel. A boat has gone to " sara sara," — the reefs. 

11. The boat returned last evening, and reported 
that but little " beech de mer" was to be seen on the 
reefs. The men visited a small uninhabited island, but 
report nothing worthy of note. Several natives slept on 



196 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

board last night, and there are now from twenty-five 
to thirty canoes alongside. Some have a quantity of 
cooked fish and bread-fruit on board. I can discover no 
weapons, and the persons of the natives are so free from 
scars, I am inclined to think they have never learned the 
art of war. Mr. W.'s talk to them is like Mosaic work. 
His sentences are a mingling of English, Feejeean and 
Spanish ; but they understand gesticulation the best. 
We learn that a chief is called Samola. As a party 
came on board this morning, we observed that one of 
the number appeared of superior rank to the rest. They 
approached Mr. W. with an offering of cocoa-nuts, and 
two boxes resembling in form infants' coffins. An offi- 
cer of royalty, no doubt, then pointed to Mr. W. and to 
the vessel, seeming to say, "You are the chief of this 
vessel." He then pointed to his superior and to the 
land, signifying that he was the chief of the land. He 
then called Mr. W. " Samola," and his own chief by the 
same name, which made the whol,e plain to us. His 
presents were accepted, and others returned. They ap- 
peared highly delighted with knives, scissors and razors. 

Fish-hooks were prized next. They call a fish " eek," 
very like eka, which word is used for fish in nearly 
every known isle of the South Seas. They have brought 
some fowls for sale, which they call " malek." In the 
morning I showed them a hen's egg, and signified to 
them that I would like to have some brought. In the 
afternoon two little trembling chicks were brought, look- 
ing as though they had burst their shell on their passage 
to the bark, and half a dozen eggs; on breaking which, I 
found them inhabited. 

Several canoes that were here in the morning, sailed 
to a distant part of the group ; — another evidence that 
the inhabitants are at peace. One native presented me 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 197 

with a dozen of delicious fruit, unlike any that I have 
seen. It was about the size of an orange, but of an ir- 
regular form. The rind is like that of the bread-fruit, 
and there is a core inside like it; the core is surrounded 
by kernels of the size and form of the hazel nut; the 
pulp is of bright yellow, emitting a delightful odor, 
and of a delicious taste; the kernels are strung upon a 
stick, roasted and then eaten. 

12. Some of the natives yesterday brought a small 
quantity of " beech de rner," and the mate, with four men 
accompanying him, explored the reefs again, but re- 
ported the fish as not being sufficiently plentiful to induce 
our stay at the place. Our exploring expedition also 
visited an island that they supposed inhabited. Several 
natives accompanied them. They only saw a few na- 
tives, however, and one house (the Astor of the island, 
probably). The building was of rather extensive dimen- 
sions, and kept by a blind man. This did not appear to 
be the season for company, as the house was not full. 
Two females were seen peeping at the strangers, but 
on being observed by their lords, boys were sent to 
stone the ladies from the premises. 

As the order was given this morning to man the 
windlass, an application was made to the captain by 
one of the crew to be discharged. This man had been 
shipped in Manilla from a whaling vessel, and now the 
sight of land induced him to wish for another change. 
Mr. W. inquired why he wished for a discharge so soon. 
He replied, that he did not like the ' ' beech de mer " 
trade. The reason not being deemed sufficient, his re- 
quest was not granted. 

21. We sighted a group of islands called the Green- 
wich Islands. We counted about twenty in number, 
and from one of them an extensive reef stretched out 



198 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

several miles directly in our track. This was not looked 
for, as the group was merely designated on the chart by 
one little dot. The reef runs west north-west from the 
isle, and is some eight miles in extent. Daylight appear- 
ed in the morning just in time to show us our dangerous 
proximity to this dangerous place. In one half hour 
more our destruction would have been sure. 

The bark was hove to, and a boat manned and sent 
to examine the reefs around the isles that lay the near- 
est to the vessel. The article that is so highly prized 
by the Chinese epicure was not found to inhabit this por- 
tion of the seas, and our exploring expedition seemed 
likely to turn out a deploring one. A canoe was seen at 
one time, which seemed in a hurry to escape from our 
observation, and was soon hidden from view. With 
a glass we observed several houses on one island, but no 
inhabitant appeared in sight. Being curious to see the 
natives, I regretted their timidity. The group, like the 
Young Williams's, was of coral formation, appearing 
scarcely above the level of the ocean, and apparently 
covered with the cocoa-nut trees. 

29. While engaged at my morning toilet, I heard 
a sudden rush to the quarter deck, followed by the rat- 
tling of ropes and other confused sounds. I felt alarm- 
ed, thinking that some one had fallen into the briny ele- 
ment; but I was soon undeceived, and from the tremen- 
dous flapping was led to suppose that we had received a 
visitor of distinction from the same element. I hastened 
to " sara sara," and perceived Mr. Shark, from " blue 
ocean." He was a dancing master, I presume, as he 
continued for a long time exhibiting his knowledge of 
that beautiful accomplishment for our amusement. When 
the people had become satiated with the exhibition, they 
dragged the visitor very unceremoniously to the main 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 199 

deck, and, horrible to relate, cut him in two parts. This 
cruel act, however, did not prevent him from continuing 
his favorite pastime for the space of an hour. 

This reminds me of a well authenticated shark story, 
which I will record. While we were at Mathuata, I 
observed that the man, Harry, of whose horrid death at 
Navu I have previously given an account, had lost two 
of his lingers. I inquired where he had deposited them. 
l( In the jaws of a shark," he replied. He then re- 
Sated the following story, to which I scarcely gave 
credence at the time. Afterwards, however, I heard the 
fact affirmed by two eye-witnesses of respectable char- 
acter. He stated that while a sailor on board a brig 
lying at one of the islands, they caught a shark one day 
just before the dinner hour. Immediately after he was 
taken, the head was severed from the body, and both 
parts were left on the deck till the men had dined, smoked 
and talked their hour of noon; after which, their atten- 
tion was again turned to the shark, not supposing that 
any life remained in the dissevered parts, after so long a 
time had elapsed since it was taken and separated. 
Harry, with another, first took the head and raised it 
to the rail of the vessel to throw it overboard. As 
they were about to plunge it into the deep, Harry cried 
out, " Stop! let us have prayers over the head, and bury 
it Christian fashion. " At that moment the jaws opened 
and snapped off two of his fingers. The head was drop- 
ped, and notwithstanding the lesson, the lips of the pro- 
fane Harry did not cease to utter impious oaths. 

30. The two past nights the centipedes have been 
exercising their vocal powers to please us; but strange 
beings that we are, we are not amused by Mr. Shark's 
dancing, nor by the music of the vocalists from Feejee. 
The latter were discovered to-day, and immediately ex- 



200 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ecuted. We have now been trying to sail towards Fee- 
jee for three months; but calms, light airs and head 
winds appear to have formed a combination against us. 
" An surely," in Irish phrase, li we are advancing in re- 
trograde motion." About once in six or seven days we 
are favored with copious showers, which we deem a 
great blessing, as they supply us with an abundance of 
pure water, which the sailor and the traveller of the 
sandy desert alone know how to appreciate. The time 
would be somewhat tedious to me, were it not beguiled 
by the perusal of books. 

July 12. At eight o'clock, A. M., we discovered a 
group of low islands, not mentioned on our charts. 
Twenty-two were counted. Owing to a contrary cur^ 
rent we could not conveniently visit them. 

Aug. 9. We arrived at Pleasant Island, or the wha- 
ler's depot, I think it should be called. No anchorage 
being found, the bark lay to, and we were visited by 
the inhabitants in great numbers. An African negro, 
as black as Africans ever are, came off in one of the 
first canoes. He was asked if there were any white 
men on the island. " Oh, yes, sir, there be three be- 
sides myself," was his reply. The white men soon came 
off, bringing a sick pig and a well one for sale. One of 
the men, called Bob, was the captain, I presume, as he 
appeared a very confident, bold, business sort of a fel- 
low. They are all deserters from whalers. He inform- 
ed me that there were about fifteen hundred inhabi- 
tants on the island, — that they were divided into tribes, 
each tribe having a petty chief, and the whole being 
governed by a queen. They perform no religious cere- 
monies, but believe in the immortality of the soul. 
When a chief dies, they believe he becomes a star, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 201 

(a poor material, I should judge, to make such brilliants 
of,) and when a poor man dies, his spirit has to wan- 
der about on the island in dark and unfrequented places. 
There are often wars among them, but they seldom kill 
their enemies, — they only kind o' play fight. With re- 
gard to the white men, Capt. Bob coolly stated that not 
more than three or four could agree to remain on the 
island at a time, as they usually got to fighting and kill- 
ed each other; but three years had now elapsed since 
the last white man was killed. 

None of the vegetables or fruits usually found in 
tropical climates are found here, except the cocoa-nut. 
These, with fish, are the food of the natives. They 
raise pigs and fowls for the supply of their whaling visit- 
ors. Capt. Bob, however, does not allow the natives to 
sell the pigs themselves. He kindly takes possession of 
any long face that happens to be brought for sale by 
other than his own clan, sells it at sixpence a pound, 
and indemnifies the owner with such a quantity of to- 
bacco as he thinks best. He allowed the natives to sell 
their fowls, which they did for one negro head of tobacco 
apiece. The black man did not belong to Bob's clan, 
and lived at another part of the island. He appeared 
much better than the trio composing Bob's company. 
He asked me if I could give him a Bible or a Testa- 
ment, or even a few leaves of a Bible. I felt happy that 
it was in my power to comply with his request. Capt. 
Bob regretted our short stay at the isle, as I was the 
first white lady that he had ever seen at the place, al- 
though he had been here seven years. He would have 
been happy to have had Mr. W. and myself visit the 
queen, and to have shown us the island. The sick pig 
he brought was of very large dimensions. It ap- 
peared feeble, but Mr. W. was assured that it was only 



202 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

exhaustion occasioned by his journey from the land to 
the vessel, not being accustomed to travel by water. 
As we had long been without fresh provisions, Mr. W. 
paid eleven dollars in cash for long face. 

Our decks were completely filled with native men and 
young girls, who stole every thing they could lay their 
hands upon. I saw them handing shirts, trowsers, sai- 
lors' knives and various other articles over the sides of 
the vessel; but supposing that palm-leaf hats, of which 
great numbers were brought for sale, had been bought 
by the seamen with them, I said nothing about it. They 
brought a quantity of lines to sell. Mr. W. stood on 
the quarter deck, buying them, and had them passed 
into the house, which was filled with natives; and as the 
lines and cocoa-nuts were passed in on one side, the 
honest natives dexterously passed them out on the other, 
selling them again. This was continued for some time 
before they were discovered. All that they brought was 
sold for tobacco, and I was almost stunned by the vocife- 
rous cry of the girls, of " Captain's woman, give me 
chaw tobacco." They placed no value upon cloth, 
which was offered them, although they wore nothing but 
a " leku," made of grass. The whole conduct of this 
people was boisterous, rude, and immodest in the ex- 
treme. The girls came on board for the vilest of pur- 
poses, but stated that their purposes were not accom- 
plished, as the sailors were afraid of " Captain's 
woman." 

This little island, which is only six miles in circumfer- 
ence, was discovered by Capt. Fearn in 1798. Its in- 
habitants then resembled in character those that I have 
before described as belonging to the Young Williams's 
group. Whaling vessels have been in the habit of visit- 
ing this place for many years, and here are shown the 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 203 

effects of a heathen intercourse with white (I can scarcely 
say civilized) men from civilized lands. It is true that 
at home this class appear like civilized beings, but it is 
too often the case that when men visit foreign climes, 
their conduct shows that they have left their souls at 
home. 

Here is a practical illustration that civilization does 
not follow intercourse with civilized people, unless ac- 
companied with the gospel. I believe that the state of 
society at Tahiti and the Sandwich Islands would have 
been no better than this, had not the gospel been close 
upon the white man's track. Such in a few years would 
Feejee become, were not the gospel there to counteract 
in some measure the baneful consequences of intercourse 
with trading vessels. The reason why it has not already 
become so, is, that the dangerous character of the na- 
tives has hitherto prevented a free intercourse with them. 
I presume that there is no class of beings to be found 
upon this mundane world (Chinese excepted), whose 
minds would be found more impervious to gospel influen- 
ces than the inhabitants of Pleasant Island. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Return to Manicola — Supposed Treachery of the Natives — Arrival at Fee- 
jee — A Delicious Feast — Arrival at Bau — Visit of Tanoa — Destruction 
of Two Whaling Vessels — Natawa War — Ceremony of Anointing a 
Warrior. 

Aug. 15. It is said that we must live slowly to be 
good. How very good we should be, for we have lived 
slowly enough since the first of last April! It is now the 



204 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

middle of the fifth month since we have been traversing 
the ocean. Really, it would seem sometimes that sky, 
ocean, and every visible object had come to an anchor, 
so slowly do we advance. Were it not that I have en- 
joyments called employments, I might long since have 
died of ennui, and been buried in the deep blue ocean; 
and although poets may write about its coral beds, 1 have 
no wish to try one, believing them to be hard and cold. 
If all the poets were condemned to live on oceans for the 
space of five months in succession, we should not read as 
much from their pens in their praise. We should not 
hear of a beautiful sunset at sea, for it is not what the 
poet so often describes it, but is more like the character 
of an old bachelor — there is an incompleteness about it. 
The clouds appear to lack variety and beauty, and there 
is a frigid, stony sameness of scenery, that often tires 
the eye. I cannot subscribe to the sentiment expressed 
in the following lines of the poet: — 

" Though beauty every where is strewn 

To glad the weary soul — 
Upon the burning, torrid zone, 

Around the frozen pole — 
Though dark the forest shadows fall, 

Though fair the valley be, 
The noblest sight among them all 

Is sunset on the sea." 

I think the poet who traced these lines must have been 
seated on some verdant mound, on a bright summer eve, 
with hat and cane thrown carelessly by his side, and the 
gentle zephyrs fanning his cheeks. It seems to me he 
could not have been floating about on the ocean, amid 
opposing currents, baffling winds, and try-patience calms, 
with rice and molasses for breakfast, dinner and supper — 
if so, the pretty sonnet entitled "Sunset at Sea," would 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 205 

never have graced the pages of a periodical. Believe 
me, when I say that a completely finished, beautifully 
glorious sunset can never be witnessed without the diver- 
sified scenery of land and water. 

23. We made the island of Manicola, and approaching 
it in a different direction from our last visit, we observed 
several huts and inhabitants. The boat was lowered, 
manned, and a superficial examination was made on a 
part of the reef for "beech de mer." A strong breeze 
prevented a more thorough search. We suspect that 
Capt. Osborne had some trouble with the same natives 
on his way to Manilla, as Mr. O., of Manilla, spoke of an 
occurrence of the kind, but gave no hint of the name or 
place. We were so near the isle that we could distinctly 
see the natives. They seemed exceedingly shy, appear- 
ing only at intervals from among the trees, and at the 
doors of their dwellings. They were dark colored, like 
the Feejeeans. No canoes were observed. We were 
only five days from Feejee to this place. 

Sept. 16. Since we left Manicola, we have been 
tumbling about in cross seas, with strong, contrary 
winds. I am exceedingly wearied in body, but not dis- 
couraged in mind. {C Hope on, hope ever," is my motto. 
We are not doomed like the flying Dutchman to wander 
o'er these seas forever. 

Last evening, about eight o'clock, I said to Mr. W., 
" Ave we not about on the centre of Charlotte's Bank?" 
He had scarcely replied in the affirmative, when the 
shout of " breakers! breakers!" saluted our ears. We 
hastened on deck, and the captain cried out, " Hard 
down your helm!" The order was instantly obeyed, and 
the bark came round. This bank is marked on the chart 
as doubtful. Mr. W. had passed the spot, or very near 
to it, several times without discovering any bank or 



206 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

shoal; but he had given orders for the watch to be vigi- 
lant. None were satisfied that the alarm was not occa- 
sioned by a shoal of whales. 

17. Feejee is in sight! Feejee is in sight! The land 
of pigs and yams. Shall I sing and dance, and clap my 
hands for joy? Oh no, that would never do for one of 
my years. I must remember that I have passed the glee- 
ful age of fifteen, and should have nothing to do with the 
exercise of such feelings, but should manifest a sober 
and grave deportment. Such are the suggestions of 
Dame Propriety. My heart, however, is actually dan- 
cing for joy, and the green isles of Feejee were never 
hailed with greater delight by a weary daughter of the 
ocean. 

18. A mantle of dark gray is thrown over the face of 
the ^in, and veils the sky. We all passed an anxious 
and sleepless night, fearing our dangerous proximity to 
shoals and reefs. The past night has been exceedingly 
dark, but the bark must be kept on her way, as there was 
no anchorage. The wind blew half a gale, and they 
" wore ship " every two hours. We were running be- 
tween the islands of Kandavu and Ngau. May we feel 
grateful to Him who has saved us from the dangers of 
the night, and the many perils of a protracted voyage! 

19. We arrived at Motureke about noon, and anchor- 
ed in a snug little bay. Our vessel is still, and we are 
at rest, after being tossed hither and thither for six 
months. I never knew the delight of rest before. I was 
never before truly w T eary, and such only as are, can enjoy 
perfect rest. The natives brought us pigs, fowls, yams, 
sweet potatoes, bananas and pine-apples. Our people 
eagerly devoured raw yams, not being willing to wait for 
them to be cooked. The scurvy had begun to appear 
among them, and had our passage been prolonged a week 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 207 

or two longer, I fear that none would have had sufficient 
strength to have managed the vessel. Our voyage from 
Feejee to Manilla was performed in forty-four days. Mr. 
W. knew that the prevailing winds would not favor our 
return here, but he never supposed that our passage 
would exceed three months, and he supplied the vessel 
with suitable provisions for that time. Several of the 
pigs and fowls died. The flour soon grew wormy 
and musty. Our bread was occupied by living tenants 
when we left home (this was not the fault of the 
gentlemanly owners of the bark, who supposed the 
bread was good). I could not feel an appetite for 
the salt beef and sandwiches, and my sustenance for 
the last three months had been rice and molasses. 
During the last month, while our vessel was being 
continually tossed about, the winds blowing almost a 
gale, I could take but little of that. I never felt any dis- 
position, however, to complain of our bill of fare. We 
had a good supply of coffee and tea, the clouds of heaven 
supplied us with pure water, and our rice was of the very 
best kind. We were never threatened with starvation, 
and we never knew thirst. How many a poor mariner 
would gladly have exchanged situations with us! How 
grateful, too, should we be, that we did not suffer! 

But did'nt we enjoy the bountiful, delicious feast, that 
was spread upon our table on the afternoon of the 19th 
of September! It was at the hour of five. I could not 
have eaten before, had the food been prepared. I did 
not feel hungry for some hours, but at length the emo- 
tions of my joyful heart became more quiet, and the table, 
unaccustomed to the load of luxuries, seemed to say, 
4< Come, and lighten my burden! 55 What a good supper 
we did have! Roast fowls, boiled yams, tarro, baked 
sweet potatoes, bananas, &c. 



203 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

20. Received a visit from a chief of Bau. We learn 
from him that the bark Samos, Capt. Archer, is here from 
Salem, Mass.; the bark Catherine, Capt. Pratt, of Bos- 
ton, Mass., and the schooner Sir John Franklin, of New 
Zealand; the latter has brought Mr. J. B. Williams, the 
United States Consul and general agent for the Pacific. 

Namosimalua is still numbered among the living; Bau 
has allowed him to continue here a little longer. Per- 
haps, as they deem him neither Christian nor heathen, 
they think that his spirit would not gain admittance to 
any habitation in the spirit land, and thus be left to wan- 
der about here to their annoyance. It is certain that his 
life has not been spared through love to him. 

21. Our anchor was raised, and with a fair wind we 
sailed for Bau, where we arrived at two P. M. A canoe 
soon came off from Vewa. The mission families sent 
their compliments, and an invitation to visit them as soon 
as the tide would allow us. The reefs are so extensive, 
that Vewa can only be visited at the very top of the tide; 
consequently, only four hours out of the twenty-four will 
suit. This may sound strange to those who have read 
what Ellis, in his Polynesian Researches, says about the 
tides in the South Pacific Ocean. His remarks appear 
to apply only to Tahiti. Here the tide is full at six 
o'clock only, at the full and change of the moon, after 
which it varies forty minutes daily. At Tonga, Rotumah, 
and many other islands, the tides are the same as they 
are here. 

At five, P. M., we started for Vewa. The mission 
families with their servants, the queen with her house- 
hold, Mary Wallis and many others, awaited our arrival 
at the landing. Our meeting was any thing but cold or 
ceremonious. It was most delightfully heart-cheering. 
"How dreadfully you look!" said one. "Are you 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 209 

sick?" inquired another. " Have you been sick?" said 
a third. " Let me have a seat at your tables, and you'll 
see how sick I am," was my answer. We then informed 
our friends that we had been on a deploi^ing expedition 
for the last six months, and it had been found to disagree 
with my constitution. We found that some alterations 
had taken place during our absence. Mr. Watsford and 
family had removed to Ono. A stone house had been 
completed, and Mr. Jaggar and family had removed into 
it, using a part of it as a printing office. Mrs. Wilson, 
the widow of the late Francis Wilson, who died in Tonga 
about three months since, is here, waiting the return of 
the mission schooner from Lakemba, when she will de- 
part for New Zealand. As Mrs. Wilson occupies my 
little domicil, I shall pass the nights on board the bark 
for the present. 

22. Passed the day at Vewa. I was deeply interested 
in listening to Mrs. Wilson's account of a revival of re- 
ligion at Vavau, a Tonga island where she had resided. 
She told me of the sickness and happy death of her be- 
loved husband. She is a most interesting woman. 

23. Just as the boat was ready to take me to Vewa, 
I was hindered by the arrival of the old king and suite. 
He had come dressed for the occasion, I presume. A 
glazed cap, somewhat the worse for wear, and decorated 
with a faded garland of flowers, had formed a resting: 
place somewhere on the top of his head, where it ap- 
peared ready to fall at the feet of royalty upon the slight- 
est hint. His arms were decorated with several circlets 
of beads. His beard, which was about ten inches in 
length, has been recently dyed black. Several yards of 
clean, white masi were worn around his person in neat 
folds. He was accompanied, as usual, by old men and 
children. Thakombau, with a large company of war- 

14 



210 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

riors, has gone to assist Somosomo in the war with Na- 
tawa. After the departure of the king and suite, Na- 
vinde came to visit us. He wished to beg five axes of 
Mr. W., which being refused, he departed, very much 
displeased. Since this chief has been betrothed to the 
daughter of the king, he appears to be looking up, and 
begs in a wholesale manner. 

24. Again I have lost the tide, and cannot visit Vewa, 
being prevented by a call from the Queen of Bau, with 
her ladies and maidens. My royal visitors are a poor 
substitute for the loss of the society of my Vewa friends. 

Before we left this place for Manilla, Mr. W. gave the 
schooner Perseverance in charge of two men with trade, 
and instructions to fish " beech de mer" during our ab- 
sence. One of the men died, and the other, not being 
capable of taking the lead of business of any description, 
the schooner was laid by to rest, and was condemned as 
unseaworthy by all who had vessels out of employ. Mr. 
W., however, not being converted to their opinion, has 
sent for the vessel to prepare it for farther service; con- 
sequently, as we shall probably remain here some little 
time, several "beech de mer " houses have been com- 
menced in this vicinity. 

Verani, the chief, who is now called Elijah, still lives, 
an honor to his calling. He has built a fine new chapel, 
and is becoming very useful to the missionaries. The 
chiefs of Bau have become reconciled to him, and all has 
been peaceful between the two little i slands. Namo- 
simalua is with Thakornbau. During our absence, two 
whaling vessels have been destroyed at Ovalau. They 
were set on fire by their crews. Both were American 
vessels; one was named the Elizabeth, and the other the 
Canton Packet. We learn that a few weeks since, a 
mountain tribe of Ovalau made a sudden descent upon 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 211 

the coast of that island, murdering many of the natives, and 
robbing all the white inhabitants, besides killing the native 
women. 

29. Samonunu came on board with a dozen others. 
They had not been here long when some one told them 
that the Turaga-lavu was coming on board. The ladies 
appeared frightened, drew themselves into the smallest 
possible compass, and occupied every nook and cranny 
that they could find below. As soon as the king was 
seated on the sofa, they crawled from their hiding places 
on their hands and knees, and ascended to the deck. 
Many of these women were of high rank, yet none would 
dare to assume an upright position in the presence of 
any chief of rank. The women of Feejee are always 
seen in parties by themselves, and the men the same. 
Parties of chiefs, however, do not associate. We should 
never see Thakombau visit at any place with his father, 
or any chiefs of high rank in the company of either. If 
one chief came on board the vessel, he would retire to 
some remote part, and remain till the first had left. The 
women never eat with the men, and there is but little 
social intercourse among them. When a woman meets 
a chief in a common pathway, she steps from the path, 
and kneels till he has passed, whatever her rank may be. 

We are informed that the chief of Nakalo, finding that 
Thakombau has violated his promise respecting his sis- 
ter, who has been given to Navinde, sent word to Ga- 
renggeo that if he would return to Rewa, he would assist 
him to rebuild the town, and defend it. The exiled chief 
embraced the proposal, returned, and they have rebuilt the 
place; consequently, hostilities have again commenced 
between the powers that be. Phillips is still at Nuque. 

Oct. 2. Thakombau has returned from the war with 
Natawa. As the Rev. Mr. Williams has forwarded a 



212 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

full account of this celebrated affair to the mission station 
at Vewa, I shall transcribe it, that the heroism of the 
Feejeeans may be truly appreciated. He commences 
his narrative in June, 1846, with the following observa- 
tions: — " Our soldiers have done no fighting for the last 
five months. Besides being otherwise employed, it is 
possible that they think the splendid feats of the former 
part of the year should suffice for the latter; namely, the 
capture and entire demolition of two defenceless women, 
the slaughter of a young lad, and their complete victory 
over a poor, stray idiot boy. This was the crowning 
triumph of the year. With reason then, they may now 
rest upon their illustrious deeds. The Somosomo people 
have long been waiting for the promised assistance from 
Bau against their enemies. About the 12th of June, 
Tuilili, the chief, received certain intelligence of the near 
approach of his friends and allies, and the following pre- 
parations were made for them. Five of the best " buris " 
were first built, and then five "bolo buris " were added 
to them, and several other large houses are to be vacated 
for their use. Thirty-eight thousand yams, besides large 
quantities of arrow-root, are interspersed among the 
buildings, and many thousands more of yams are in store 
for their use. Sixty large turtles are secured, and fish- 
ers are continually adding to them. On the opposite 
land, many pigs are in reserve. 

About forty huge bales of native cloth, and hundreds 
of head-dresses are ready to excite the strangers to deeds 
of valor, also a completely equipped new canoe, a lot of 
yanggona brought from Ramba in five canoes, which, 
when piled, formed a wall thirty-five feet long and seven 
high. 

June 18. It was reported that all the warriors 
had assembled at Vuna. On the 13th, Tuilili with 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 2i3 

forty of his chief men, joined the Bau party at Vuna 
to perform the ceremony, when the chiefs were pre- 
sented with one large bale of masi, forty dresses, and 
fifty large whales' teeth. The Vuna people prepared 
food, danced, and presented a quantity of native cloth 
that excited the surprise of the receivers. Thakombau 
told Tuilili that he should remain at Vuna during the Sab- 
bath, and on Monday proceed to Somosomo. Tuilili re^ 
turned to Somosomo with his people on Saturday, and on 
Monday Thakombau arrived with a fleet of sixty-six large 
double canoes, and sixteen single ones. 

The canoes had scarcely reached the shore, when a 
succession of shouts from behind the settlement an- 
nounced the arrival of hundreds who came inland from 
Vuna. We are informed that the Lasakau people 
burned several towns on their way to this place, and 
some natives were killed at the lowering of the masts of 
some of the Bau canoes. When the Bau chiefs had 
landed, the ceremony of Qalova was performed, when 
they received about one hundred dresses, twenty whales' 
teeth, and a quantity of baked yams, tarro and pigs. On 
Monday night, the inhabitants of Somosomo, with those 
of many other towns, were employed in preparing food. 
On Tuesday, two hundred people were employed till 
noon in piling food. The warriors passed their time in 
shouting and in blacking themselves. 

The accumulated labors of the cooks were seen in the 
shape of one large heap of ground tarro puddings, four 
heaps of baked tarro, and yams covered with arrow-root 
puddings, and turtles. Seventy turtles were placed by 
themselves in another heap. These hills of food were 
flanked on the left with a wall of yanggona, thirty-five 
feet long and seven high. On the right was a fence of 
uncooked yams, numbering thirty-eight thousand. 



214 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

After the food was set in order, a large bale of cloth 
was brought and placed opposite, leaving a space of two 
hundred yards between. This was followed by twenty 
others laid side by side, which elicited from the warriors 
a shout truly deafening. After a space, a Somosomo 
chief came to the fence with a train of il masi" sixty 
yards in length. A stout man had brought a marked 
dress thus far for him, and then assisted in placing it 
upon his shoulders. After being thus equipped, the lad 
marched manfully across the open space to the place 
where the Bau chiefs sat, when he tossed off his dress, 
and marched back again amid the shouts of the multitude. 
He repeated this ceremony five times, leaving a dress 
each time. 

After this, the warriors retired to form themselves into 
a procession, which entered [the western avenue to 
the arena. Two young chiefs, sons of Tuilili, came 
running from the town by different ways, raising their 
fans on high, and kicking up a great dust with their trains 
of sixty yards in length. They were followed by their 
father, whose train measured one hundred fathoms. His 
squire came behind him, bearing an immense dress, and 
was followed by two hundred men, each bearing a dress 
hanging in immense folds. Two men came next, with 
bamboos on their shoulders, from which were suspended 
four large dresses hanging in bunches. These were fol- 
lowed by one hundred men bearing bales of cloth, who 
took their seats on and about the cloth, and were joined 
by one hundred and fifty men, all bearing cloth. The 
sons of Tuilili, commenced running again, shortening 
their distance, however, each time as the procession of 
warriors approached the arena by the easterly entrance. 
They came in the following order: — 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 215 

Thakombau and Tuilili, bearing beautiful spears and clubs. 
One hundred men bearing spears and clubs. 
Five with two muskets each. 
Ten with one musket each. 
Five with one musket each. 
Ten with two muskets each. 
Sixty-eight with one musket each. 

Six with two muskets each. 
Fifty-one with one musket each. 

Two with two muskets each. 

Thirteen with one musket each. 

Two with two muskets each. 

Sixty with one musket each. 

Twenty carpenters with American axes. 

Sixty men with clubs and spears. 

One man with bow and arrow. 

Twenty-eight with muskets. 

Sixty with spears and arrows. 

One bearing bows, and a large bundle of arrows. 

Thirty with clubs, spears and hatchets. 

Sixty-one with muskets. 

Forty with clubs, spears and hatchets. 

Twenty with muskets. 

One hundred with clubs, spears and battle-axes. 

Eighty-five with muskets. 

Twenty with spears and clubs. 

Six with two muskets each. 

Twenty-one with muskets. 

One old man with a large bundle of spears closed the procession. 

The warriors of Bau formed a line four deep in front 
of the provisions, the musket hearers forming the right, 
and the club and spear men the left wings. These had 
scarcely formed in order, when our ears were saluted 
with the most frightful yells, with clanking of arms and 
axes. On looking in the direction from w 7 hence the 
sounds proceeded, we observed a large company of the 



216 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

common fighting men, who, after shaking their spears 
awhile, rushed " en masse" into the open space, some 
through it, and others over the fence. After these had 
run, capered and shouted till they were tired, they re- 
tired to the seaside, behind the Bau chiefs, waving a 
white banner whereon were painted several marvellous 
figures. The enormous bales of cloth were then remov- 
ed and the shouting again commenced. Tuilili took a 
hundred whales' teeth upon his shoulders, (he is almost 
a giant in size, and quite one in strength,) and approach- 
ing Thakombau, stooped and made a speech. When he 
had finished, he arose and returned to his place, bearing 
the teeth with him. Thakombau then commenced the 
"mbole, mboling," (thanking) and was followed by many 
of the chiefs singly, — then by companies of eight and 
ten each. As the respectability of the company decreas- 
ed, the numbers increased, all endeavoring by their ges- 
tures and words to evince their valor. A Bau chief 
now took the whales' teeth from Tuilili, and other Bau 
men took about twenty bunches of spears, and laid them 
at the feet of Thakombau. Several ceremonies connec- 
ted with welcoming the Bau warriors to Somosomo were 
then performed, after which the multitude dispersed with 
yells, and shouts, and firing of muskets. Thakombau is 
accompanied by Tubo, the Tonga chief, and his tribe. 
It is said that the army of Thakombau numbers about 
three thousand, including the Tonguese. 

July 1. The warriors depart to-morrow for their 
scene of action. Thakombau has observed the Sab- 
baths, and tried to have his people do the same; but he 
complains that the Tonguese make it difficult for his 
commands to be obeyed, by their habitual negligence 
and disregard of them. The very lowest of the heathen 
complain of the vicious conduct and indecent dances of 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 217 

Tubo's party. When any thing is said to him, he has 
an excuse ready, and makes himself appear very good. 
A new temple has been built to propitiate the god who 
has been invoked, and he is so pleased with his new 
" buri" that his godship has promised them entire suc- 
cess in the coming conflict. Tanoa's little boy, who is 
" vasu " to Somosomo, has taken one double canoe and 
twenty-one single ones; this " vasuing " is a great affair. 
It is said that it is mostly done while they are children, 
as when the "vasu" becomes older, they are ashamed 
to help themselves in this way. 

24. The warriors having returned, we are able to pro- 
ceed in our narrative. It appears that the Natawa peo- 
ple were determined to give their enemies battle; and 
some of their bravest men singled out Thakombau as 
their victim. The warriors approached so near the 
fighting fence as to converse with each other. " Where 
is Thakombau?" asked some. "Here I am," he re- 
plied, " I have brought these warriors here." The 
Natawa people had sheltered themselves in a place diffi- 
cult of access. The roads are represented as being less 
than three feet in width, with frightful precipices on 
either side. When our warriors had gained the small flat 
on which the town was built, they erected a fence to 
serve as a guard against the shot of the besieged. Then 
a brisk, but slightly effective fire, was kept up for some 
time. 

The Somosomo people were desirous to assist in the 
skirmish, but Thakombau told them not to interfere, for 
the war was his, and he should manage it. After some 
firing, the besieged made a sally, and a fine young man, 
named Mai Vatarovo, was killed. Thakombau shot a 
man that was in the act of darting a spear at him. This 
appears to have been the heat of the battle. The be- 



218 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

seiged retired into their town, which the warriors assail- 
ed, and succeeded in making a small breach in the fence, 
when Thakombua stopped all farther proceedings for the 
day, saying, " We will take the town tomorrow." Wheth- 
er he intended to give the inhabitants an opportunity to 
escape, or whether he felt that they had achieved glory 
enough for one day, is not known ; probably the first, 
as there is reason to suppose that the Bau chiefs had de- 
termined that Natawa should not be destroyed, and they 
engaged in the affair that they might gratify the old king 
of Somosomo and increase their own powers, by bringing 
the Somosomo people under an obligation to them, and 
by bringing the Natawa people to submit to the dominion 
of Bau. Thus Somosomo has to bear all the expense of 
the war, while Bau gains all the glory and advantage. 

To-morrow came, and the warriors entered the town, 
where they found the houses standing, and ready to be 
destroyed, the inmates having fled. The body of a Bau 
man, who had been killed the day before, was baking in 
an oven, and the body of another was cut up, ready for 
cooking. Several towns, which had been vacated during 
the night, were burned. The spoil collected consisted 
of four bars of soap, some fishing nets, and a small quan- 
tity of cinnet. 

The forces next moved to Oro ni Yasatha; against 
which place Tuilili was very bitter. A fence was built, 
as before, and a ceaseless fire was kept up for several 
hours, to the alarm of the women and children. During 
the night a man stole from the town, and early in the 
morning was conducted to Thakombau. His business 
was to inform the chief that the inhabitants wished to 
" soro " to Bau. He was told that it was good for them 
to do so. Soon persons appointed were seen approach- 
ing, bearing whales' teeth and baskets of earth. The 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 219 

men approached Thakombau, as is their custom, on their 
knees; first presenting the teeth as their " soro," and then 
the baskets of earth, to signify their full surrender of their 
lands to Bau. The "soro" was accepted, and notice sent 
to Tuilili, who replied, " If it is good to you, it is well." 
After the " soro" was accepted, the Somosomo people 
amused themselves by throwing stones, and even firing 
at the Oro ni Yasatha fence, which, coming to the ears 
of Thakombau, caused him to send to know who it was 
that continued hostilities after he had said " Let there 
be peace. The people have submitted to Bau ; and 
had they not have done so, I should have finished them. 
I have said that they shall live; — they shall live." 

The Natawa people did not " soro" so readily, but 
fled from one fastness to another, till at length a Bau 
chief, well known to them, was sent to inquire why they 
conducted in this manner. They replied, " We mean to 
c soro.' Will you be of a good mind, and present our 
d soro ' to Bau? not to Somosomo, for they will be sure 
to kill us." The Bau chiefs could not agree to their 
proposal, and the Natawa chiefs were afraid to go them- 
selves to offer their "soro." At length they concluded 
to send six youths, with the teeth and earth, as repre- 
sentatives. The "soro" was accepted, peace was de- 
clared, and the war ended. 

Tuilili, with his company, returned very quietly. A 
few days after, about fifty canoes returned with shout- 
ing, beating of drums, firing of muskets, blowing of 
conch shells, &.c. Several of the warriors left for Bau 
on the Thakandrove side, where they amused themselves 
by destroying plantations, placing traps for the destruc- 
tion of the unwary, &c. 

In the course of a few days, the Somosomo people 
danced before the Bau people, and left large quantities 



<H°20 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

of native cloth for Bau. Hundreds of musquito cur- 
tains and marked cloths have been presented since the 
return of the warriors. The people complain that there 
is nothing left. The Bau people are complaining of their 
bill of fare since their return, having nothing to subsist 
upon but tarro and land crabs. They indulge in obser- 
vations like the following: — "How many men are there 
in Somosomo,' — a hundred, or not? 55 — " Natawa has 
nothing to fear. 55 — "This is a land for pork, but where 
are the pigs? 55 — " This is a land of plenty, 55 said Tha- 
kombau, " aplenty of water, and aplenty of impudence. 5 ' 
The Somosomo people make the following remarks: — 
" This has been a bad war, a useless war. Bau hates 
us, and we will be revenged. 55 The Natawa people say: 
— " We shall know Bau only. We have long been 
tired of ' soroing 5 to a people that are never satisfied. 
We do not always wish to be hearing of clubs and ovens. 
Why should they ever be baking our people? 55 

Somosomo is just as much at enmity with Natawa as 
ever, but their hands are tied ; they can do nothing 
now unless they brave the displeasure of Bau, which 
they are not in a condition to do. The bodies of the 
slain were all presented to Tuilili, who, with his people, 
devoured them. A part of one was sent to Thakombau 
after it was cooked, but he sent it away untouched. 

Aug. 6. The warriors have departed, and quiet is 
again restored. Their time has been mostly spent, since 
their return, in teaching and learning dances. 55 

Oct. 3. I have now given a fair specimen of Feejeean 
wars, how their battles are fought and their victories 
won. It is well for the population of Feejee, that its 
warriors do not possess the skill and tact of the warriors 
of civilized lands. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 22 1 

The following ceremony of anointing a successful war- 
rior, was furnished me by Mr. Hunt, who was an eye- 
witness of the same. 

S* The ceremony commenced by several old men 
chanting a piece to the following effect. c Let us attend 
to the ceremony of the chiefs who have killed our ene- 
mies.' After this had been repeated several times, the 
king called out for the warriors in a most unnatural tone, 
using words that appear to be kept for such occasions 
only. He asks who they are, and gives them a new 
name. This being done, some \ery curious chanting 
followed, accompanied by the blowing of conch shells, 
the effect of which is utterly indescribable ; the tones 
were most unnatural, and the words ridiculous. The 
art of blowing the conch appeared to be to make as short 
a sound as possible, resembling the short base notes in a 
quick march, and was about as harmonious as such 
sounds usually are, without the combination of other 
sounds necessary to constitute music. Those who re- 
sponded, made a noise resembling the creaking of a 
door that needed oiling. This performance was con- 
tinued for a very long time, the actors appearing to at- 
tach great importance to it. At its conclusion, five men 
took a large banana leaf each, and a person poured water 
in them. They held these in their hands a short time, 
and then stood so as to form a diameter of the circle of 
actors. After exchanging places several times, they 
poured the water on the ground. This appeared to rep- 
resent the pouring out of the blood of the rest of their 
enemies, as the actors chanted, ' Pour it out, — pour it 
out, — amen, — amen.' This finished the introductory 
part of the ceremony. 

The heroes were now introduced. One of them had 



222 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

never killed a person in war before, and was, conse- 
quently, introduced first. He was accompanied by a 
person bearing a large new dress, and others with mats. 
The latter were placed on the ground for the honored 
one to stand upon. An old man disrobed the hero, and 
arrayed him in his new dress. The dress was of native 
cloth, folded lengthwise. A part of it was folded around 
the person of the warrior, and the remainder placed so 
as to form a large bunch on the back, and the hero now 
appeared like a soldier with a knapsack on. While this 
was taking place, three parties of females appeared in 
different parts of the 'vara,' each holding a wooden 
bowl containing an ointment composed of the stock of the 
banana, oil and tumeric. These ointment bearers ap- 
proached slowly, repeating words that I did not under- 
stand, and after placing the bowls on the mats, retired. 
The other heroes now advanced, but as they had killed 
men in war before, they came dressed. Each hero bore 
a club on his shoulders, which was removed by the at- 
tendants, and others placed in their stead. These again 
were replaced by others, and so on, till about twenty 
were handled in this manner. It seemed to be con- 
sidered a great privilege to possess a club that had been 
handled by the heroes. 

After this came the anointing. The king's house 
steward divided the ointment, and persons appointed for 
the occasion, daubed the heroes from head to feet, 
which being concluded, the whole party repaired to the 
seaside, and the ceremonies ended. The heroes are re- 
quired to remain in the c vara ' four days. A shed is 
erected for their shelter at night, and to screen them 
from the noon-day sun; but they are not allowed to lie 
down, or take their clubs from their shoulders. During 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 223 

these four days no drum is allowed to be beaten, or any 
noise to be made, and the heroes are treated, in every 
respect, like great chiefs. At the expiration of this time, 
the warriors doff all their honors but their new name, 
(which is usually the one that was borne by the person 
whom they had killed,) and become ordinary men again." 
Thakombau visited the bark to-day, and was received 
with a salute of three large guns. Of course we felt ex- 
ceedingly honored by the visit of this Napoleon of Fee- 
jee, — this illustrious conqueror. He has not returned 
ladened with the spoils of the conquered, — the soap and 
cinnet having been sold to the mission for a trifle ; but 
what of that ? — he killed a man himself, and his braves, 
consisting of an army of three thousand, besides killing 
ten or twelve men, set fire to as many as three hundred 
straw houses with nothing in them. To be serious, how- 
ever, he has been a conqueror in the late war, and in 
the very best way he obtained the victory with compara- 
tively little bloodshed. He had no enmity towards Nata- 
wa, but was actuated only by the desire of conquest. 
In this he is unlike the former chiefs of Feejee, who only 
fought to revenge some real or fancied injury, and have 
ever delighted more in butchering and devouring their 
kind than any thing else. 



CHAPTER XIII, 

Visit at Bau— The Fancy Ball— The Ride— Arrival of the Mission 
Schooner, Triton — A Perilous Adventure — A Novel Mode of Punish- 
ment — Execution at Bau — The Bachelor. 

Oct. 4. Mr. Hunt preached on board the baik. All 
but the cook attended the services. This is the first 



2*24 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

time that preaching has ever been held on board a tra- 
ding vessel at Feejee. 

10. Mr. Hunt, Mrs. Wilson and myself visited at Bau. 
We found all the ladies busily employed in preparing for 
a fancy ball, which was to be held in the evening. Two 
barbers were dressing the head of Samonunu. Thakom- 
bau was amusing himself with a little pop-gun, by slyly 
hitting the several ladies of the court. There was as 
much finery about as would be found in any lady's dress- 
ing room who was preparing for a fancy ball at home. 
A profusion of wild flowers and aromatic shrubs were 
being arranged into very pretty wreaths. I was truly 
surprised at the taste displayed by these untutored sav- 
ages. Some were cutting little ornaments from bright- 
colored cloth or paper, for the head; others were pre- 
paring cocoa-nut oil, scented with sandalwood, to anoint 
their persons ; and several were giving the finishing 
touch to their best c< lekus." While this was going on, 
some one would receive the contents of Thakombau's 
pop-gun (which was usually a piece of uncooked yam,) 
upon the top of her nose, lip, or cheek; she would spring 
and look towards His Majesty, but his attention would 
be fixed upon some distant object with the most innocent 
look imaginable. 

We called at several other houses, and found all the 
females similarly employed. At last we called at the house 
of Tanoa. Here we found the royal captives of Rewa, 
except the wife of Garenggeo, who had made her escape 
and joined her husband. The widow of the murdered 
king was mourning the death of her only son, whom 
she declares has been poisoned. They were not prepar- 
ing to engage in the festivities of the coming evening; 
but the queen and her court were making preparations 
like the rest. We here partook of some refreshments, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 225 

consisting of baked tarro and little boiled fish. The na- 
tives manufacture a kind of pottery which they call 
il kurus," in which they cook their food. Their fish is 
carefully wrapped in fresh green leaves, and boiled in 
the " kuru." When sufficiently cooked, they are taken 
from the leaf and placed in order on a large banana leaf, 
and the water in which they are boiled is served hot in a 
cocoa-nut shell. After our banana leaf was spread, Mr. 
H. asked a blessing, and we proceeded to satisfy our 
hunger with no other knife or fork except what nature had 
provided. Our meal was really very nice. At its con- 
clusion, water was brought to wash our hands, and we 
used our handkerchiefs for napkins. We then visited 
the king in his little " fewri " and departed. The tide 
being considerably on the ebb, we rode the distance of a 
quarter of a mile on chairs made of human arms, — our 
own arms encircling the necks of our carriers. I laugh- 
ed at Mrs. Wilson, she laughed at me, and Mr. Hunt, 
who was travelling on the back of a native, laughed at 
both of us. 

11. Rev. Mr. Jaggar held divine service on board 
the bark. I spent the Sabbath at Vewa. The natives 
of this region do not visit the vessel on the Sabbath, 
as formerly. The gospel appears to be exerting its in- 
fluence, and a very perceptible change is visible since 
our first arrival at this place. 

14. Some of Phillips's warriors have killed two of 
Garenggeo's people, who were brought to Bau yester- 
day and devoured. In the afternoon Thakombau came 
on board. He appeared highly displeased that the Con- 
sul had located himself at Nuque, under the protection of 
Phillips. " Well, Mr. Wallis," he said, " they say that 
the king of America has come here. 5 ' " Surely he must 
be much poorer than myself, to come so far for oil for 
15 



226 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

his lamps." (( How is it," said Thakombau, "that 
you do not call yourself a king, or the son of a 
king? such is the fashion of the captains." "I am 
the master of this vessel, and hold no other rank. 
Why should I tell you lies? The great and rich men of 
America are never to be seen in Feejee after oil and 
' beech de rner,' " said Mr. W. "Ah! these men take 
us for fools, but we laugh at them when they tell us such 
stories. Mr. Williams has sent for me to collect a cargo 
of oil, but I sent word that he must come himself, if he 
wished me to do any thing for him, as I do not trade 
with ' kaises.' " He appears to understand human na- 
ture, and to appreciate character as well as any one I 
have seen. One day when we had first arrived at the 
group, the man Harry was in the cabin with Thakom- 
bau and Mr. W. As they were conversing, he made 
some remarks. The chief turned to him, exhibiting in 
his whole bearing the utmost "hauteur," and said, ' ' Who 
are you? — nothing but a runaway sailor, who has no 
riches but what he earns. You are not to say your own 
words. When Mr. Wallis tells you to speak, then you 
may speak." "You black rascal!" muttered Harry in 
English, "I wish I had you in Virginia, I think the 
tables would be turned." The man was hushed; he 
dared not open his mouth again to speak his own words. 

A canoe from Ovalau has just passed with the body of 
a mountaineer lashed to it, which they are taking to Bau 
to be eaten, — the natives of the coast having killed five 
of their enemies, — the mountaineers. 

23. The mission schooner, Triton, has arrived from 
Lakemba. As this vessel was absent four weeks longer 
than was expected, some anxiety had been felt on her 
account. Rev. Dr. Lyth and family have arrived to 
take the place of Mr. Watsford. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 227 

24. The day being unpleasant, I remained on board 
the bark. In the afternoon Mr. W. went to Bau in the 
Star. As the day closed, the wind increased to half a 
gale. When the steward was preparing the tea-table, I 
asked if he had not better show a light on deck. He 
said, " Capt. W. is just here, — only a few rods from the 
vessel." Relieved from my anxiety, and supposing that 
all was right, I continued reading till the expiration of 
some fifteen or twenty minutes, when I called to inquire 
if Mr. W. was on deck. I was told that he was not 
there, and the boat was not to be seen. I hastened to 
the deck, but could discern only the dim outlines of the 
surrounding isles. There was one hope that sustained 
me, — the wind, though strong, was fair for the boat to 
go to Vewa; and as our schooner lay there, I thought 
perhaps Mr. W. had suddenly altered his mind and gone 
there. I remained standing on the quarter deck from 
seven o'clock till nine. I then felt that there had been 
time for them to have returned, or some messenger to 
have been sent, as Mr. W. would know that I should be 
alarmed. I told the second mate that the boat must be 
sent to Vewa without another moment's delay. " De 
men is all turned in, ma'am," was the quiet reply. 
"Turned in!" I exclaimed. £C Is it possible that there 
is no more interest or feeling in this case? Well, turn 
them out, and send the boat at once." " But de men 
could not fetch de boat back against de wind an tide, — she 
be too heavy." " There is a surf boat at Vewa," I re- 
plied, " ours can be left and that taken." " But ma'am, 
suppose de wind should come a gale, who will take care 
of de bark?" "Both anchors are out, and a hundred 
men could not save her from the reefs, if the wind should 
be strong enough to drive her there," I answered. " Call 
all hands, — send four in the boat, and let the rest watch 



228 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

till we hear from Vewa; and if no intelligence is gained 
from the Star, let them bring Mr. Smith from our schoon- 
er! Let all Vewa be alarmed, and canoes sent out in 
every direction!" The men were called, the boat lower- 
ed, and they started. Ten o'clock came and no intelli- 
gence, — eleven, and I hear between the fitful gusts of 
wind, the sound of oars. The sounds come nearer. I 
hear voices, too, hark! I hear the voice of my husband, 
— yes, I am certain 'tis he. Then I wept. I could not 
weep before; my head seemed to be on fire, and my 
throat filled to suffocation. It seems that when the 
Star neared the bark, a squall very nearly capsized her, 
and finding that they could not reach the bark with the 
wind so strong ahead, they made for Vewa as their only- 
mode of safety. They had, however, various difficul- 
ties to encounter, owing to the darkness of the night and 
the violence of the wind; but about nine o'clock they 
gained the shore in safety, and Mr. W. had just procur- 
ed a boat and men to bring him on board as our boat 
arrived at Vewa. Our people left their boat, and they 
all came off in a surf boat. 

Nov. 4. Passed the last week at Vewa. On the Sab- 
bath Mr. Hunt preached on board the Triton in the 
morning, and then came, accompanied by Capt. Lilli- 
wall, and preached on board the bark. Mrs. Wilson 
passed the day with me on board the vessel. 

8. Mr. Williams has arrived from Rewa, and at pres- 
ent is our visitor. He has just returned from a tour to 
the interior of Vetelavu. He was accompanied by the 
Vice Consul, Mr. Whippy, and several others. They 
penetrated into the wilds to a distance of thirty miles. 
They report the inhabitants as being civil and honest. 
The distance across that part of Vetelavu where they 
travelled, is about sixty miles; consequently, they visit- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 229 

ed the central part of the island. Mr. Whippy is the 
only white man who has ever been honored with a Fee- 
jeean office. He sustains that of Matta ge Mbau. Mr. 
W. has resided in Feejee for many years, and is truly 
respected by all who are acquainted with him. There 
are several white men now residing at Solavu, who have 
been lately married, and are becoming industrious and 
respectable. The missionaries have ever labored for 
their benefit, have treated them like men, and they now 
begin to conduct like men. 

12. The Consul, Mr. Wallis and myself, were in- 
vited to breakfast on board the Triton, where we met 
Mrs. Wilson, Messrs. Hunt, Lyth and Jaggar. We 
found the Triton a nice little vessel, well fitted for pas- 
sengers. In the cabin, directly opposite the entrance, 
hung a likeness of the founder of the Wesleyan order, 
and underneath was a brass plate, on which were the 
words, "God is with us." After breakfast and prayers, 
we took leave of Mrs. Wilson and Capt. Lilliwall, and 
departed for Vewa. The anchor of the Triton was rais- 
ed, the sails unfurled, and the vessel was soon lost to 
our view. 

16. Mr. W. hearing that the Bau and Lasakau peo- 
ple had stopped fishing for the bark, went to inquire 
about it. The chiefs said that they had been informed 
that " beech de mer" was sold in Manilla for large quan- 
tities of gold, and that the Feejeeans were not paid 
enough for it, — that Capt. Wallis would pay any price 
rather than not obtain it, — that they had been advised 
to stop fishing, demand higher prices for their fish, 
and they would obtain them. Mr. W. replied, " I came 
here a lad; now my hair is becoming gray. Why am I 
here now? Rich men do not come here. Should I not 
remain at home if "beech de mer" brought so great 



230 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

riches? Do you not see that lies have been told you?" 
"Yes; you talk wisely," they replied. "We see it 
now, and we were fools to listen to the lying c kaise.' " 

Mr. W. learned that this had been the work of John 
Johnson, the survivor of the two with whom the schooner 
had been left in charge on our departure for Manilla. 
A written agreement had been signed by those men, that 
the vessel should be delivered to Mr. W. on his return 
from M. in good repair, and he was to buy what fish 
they procured at a handsome profit to themselves. They 
were to have no other reward. As has been shown, the 
vessel had been laid up during our eight months' ab- 
sence, not a fish had been procured, and the schooner 
had not only been found in the worst possible order, but 
several things missing; and the crowning of the whole 
affair was, that Johnson was very angry that Mr. W. 
would not pay him for doing nothing the past eight 
months, saying that he could not afford to lose so much 
time, and threatened vengeance. The above is his first 
attempt. He seems to forget that Mr. W.'s hair is gray, 
and that he has visited Feejee previous to the present time. 
Mr. Williams has written to him, warning him as to his 
future conduct. Johnson left Salem with us as a sailor, 
and continued as such till the bark left for Manilla. On 
our return Mr. W. offered Johnson employment, but he 
refused it. 

24. The Consul has to-day taken his departure for 
his residence at Nukulau. This is a small island near 
Rewa. Mr. Williams told Phillips when he left the isle, 
(which he has purchased,) that he would rather not have 
any Feejeeans visit at the place during his absence. 
The Consul had not been absent long, when Phillips saw 
a canoe sailing towards Nukulau. He immediately des- 
patched two canoes, with orders to kill all on board. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 23 1 

Two were killed, and the rest escaped by jumping over- 
board and swimming away. Mr. Williams had not a 
thought that his wishes would have been so strictly obey- 
ed, and regretted that he had said any thing about it. 
The canoe belonged to Phillips, and was manned by his 
own people, who would have obeyed him at once, had he 
sent word for them not to go to the isle. Phillips is a 
great coward, but delights in bloodshed and murder. 
Mr. Wallis once presented him with a large demijohn, 
which he passed into his canoe, and gave it in charge to 
two of his people; while they were putting it in a place 
of safety, they broke it. Phillips immediately made the 
men chew a quantity of broken glass, which killed them. 
He then begged for another demijohn. Mr. W. told 
him that he should give him no more glass to use for 
such a purpose. He thought, probably, that Mr. W. 
ought to reward him for the loss he had sustained. 

The Feejeeans, in all their transactions with white 
people, expect payment. The following instances will 
illustrate my meaning: — A Feejeean at one time had a 
very troublesome eruption on his arm. He went on 
board a trading vessel that was here at the time, and re- 
quested medical aid. The captain told him that he 
might remain on board, and he would see what he could 
do for him. Accordingly the man remained till his arm 
was cured, and then requested the captain to pay him, 
that he might return to his home. " For what?" asked 
the captain. " For staying on board your vessel," was 
the reply. " What work have you done?" " Nothing." 
" Who has given you food and cured your arm?" " You 
have." "Then who should receive pay?" "Myself," 
was the reply of the grateful native. The man went 
ashore and set fire to the " beech de mer" house, and 
destroyed some four or five hundred dollars worth offish. 



232 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

The second instance came under my own observation. 
A canoe broke adrift that had been slightly fastened to 
our bark. Mr. W. let the natives have the jolly boat 
to go and pick up their own craft. They soon secured 
the canoe, and returned to the vessel, leaving two na- 
tives to bring the boat back. The wind was strong, 
and the rain poured in torrents. The boat drifted about 
for some time, when the canoe went to its assistance^ 
and brought it safely to the vessel. The whole party 3 
numbering about twelve, then asked to be paid for bring- 
ing the boat back, stating that it would have been lost 
had they not saved it. 

30. Mr. Williams writes us that on his arrival at 
Nukulau, a canoe with five dead bodies on board ar- 
rived at the isle at the same time. They were Gareng- 
geo's men, who had been killed, and were being taken 
to Phillips. The war between Rewa and Bau appears to 
be renewed with all its former vigor. 

Dec. 7. Three women belonging to Navinde attempt- 
ed last week to escape to Rewa, but, losing their way, 
they were returned to Bau. They had, for sometime 
past, caused him trouble by their bad conduct. They 
told him that they intended to run away the first opportu- 
nity, and he said that if they attempted it, and did not 
succeed, he should have them shot. Accordingly their 
dresses were taken off, and they were fastened to stakes 
on a shoal near Bau, where they remained for marks, to 
receive the shots of any who chose to fire at them, — the 
marksmen being stationed on the island. It is said that 
one of the victims received twelve musket shot in her 
body before a fatal one. 

Females of Bau, who are condemned to death, are 
usually obliged to suffer a punishment before they are 
killed that is too horrible to be recorded. The above ex- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 233 

ecution took place on the Sabbath. Mr. Jaggar started 
that morning to preach at Bau before he went to the 
bark, but the wind was strong ahead, their canoe was 
upset, and they were obliged to relinquish the attempt to 
reach Bau. He states that he heard the firing of mus- 
kets, and had he known of the affair, he should have made 
another attempt to have reached Bau, when he thinks that 
he could have saved the lives of the women. It is said 
that Navinde shut himself up in a little " 6«W," and no 
one dared to approach him; and when he appeared, after 
the women were shot, his face was very pale, and he 
was exceedingly agitated. Does this not show that 
there is a monitor within the breast of even a cannibal 
savage? 

8. Mr. Hunt went to Bau, and talked to the Lasa- 
kau chief about the murdered women. He said that if 
he had pardoned them, it would have excited the jea- 
lousy of Bau at once, and they would have accused him 
of getting up a " vari" with Rewa against Bau. There 
is a good deal of truth in this. It often happens that 
when a chief is conspiring against an enemy, he will 
send some of his female servants to carry messages to 
those with whom he wishes to hold correspondence, and 
if they are missed, to say that they have run away. No 
one in this land of treachery knows who is his friend; 
consequently all are suspicious and vigilant. 

14. An Englishman, named Birch, arrived from Nu- 
kulau. He came from New Zealand a few months 
since, and has been residing at Nukulau with the Consul 
till the present time. He has come for medical aid, 
having been afflicted for several weeks with the dys- 
entery. 

17. The weather has been too unpleasant for me to 
venture to Vewa the three past days. Mr. Birch has 



234 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

remained on board, and is rather better than when he 
first arrived. He is a bachelor, but, strange as it may 
appear, is social and agreeable; therefore I have set him 
down in my book as belonging to the class accidental, or 
those who remain single from necessity. The bachelor 
who is one from choice, is never at ease in the company 
of respectable women; indeed, he affects to believe there 
are none such. He avoids the company of those who are 
not betrothed, lest they should have some designs upon 
his affections, or fortune, or both. He avoids the com- 
pany of the betrothed and the married, lest they should 
lead him into sin. Such is his vanity that he believes 
every lady looks upon him with interest, and would never 
be convinced to the contrary. If he should happen to 
attend a party (which he seldom does), one would ob- 
serve, as he enters the room, that he casts a glance 
around to see if any lady is present who has no beau to 
attend her home. If he sees this to be the case, he 
pleads an excuse to the company, and departs an hour 
before the party breaks up, exulting that he " slipped out 
of that." On the contrary, the bachelor who is one from 
necessity, does not appear to believe that every lady he 
meets is in love with his person, or his fortune, and he 
fears not to converse with her, neither does he avoid and 
affect to despise her because she is a woman, but treats 
her as a woman should be treated — with respect. 

18. The fat brother of the King of Bau died last 
night; the one whom Tanoa called the pig at the time of 
his restoration. Mr. W. has just returned from the cap- 
ital, and says that most of the children were minus a fin- 
ger joint. The men were throwing mud at the ladies, 
who, in return for the loving messages, were whipping 
the men in high glee. 

Mr. Umbers, of Solavu, gives me the following account 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 235 

of the late massacre at Ovalau: — " I was in a small 
schooner lying at anchor about two miles from the island 
of Ovalau, when we observed fires issuing from eight 
towns on the coast, and we saw the women and children 
running in every direction, pursued and killed by their 
enemies, the mountaineers. Many plunged into the sea, 
and, by diving, attempted to elude the spears of their ad- 
versaries; some reached the vessel, and were saved. 
The chief of Lavuka, called Tui Lavuka, was one of the 
victims. His daughter called to him to swim for the reef, 
which attracted the attention of the savages towards him, 
and they despatched him immediately. Five white men 
who were living at Lavuka had their houses burned; one 
of their wives was killed at the same time. The males 
belonging to the towns were most of them away, which 
fact was probably known to the enemy, who chose the 
favorable opportunity to make their descent and accom- 
plish their designs. About four hundred were killed. 
One woman swam to our vessel with two children on her 
back; another came with a basket containing her riches, 
and had left her children to be destroyed. So sudden 
and expeditious were the enemy, that, in one hour from 
the time of the attack, all was quiet." 

20. Mr. Birch died, and was buried yesterday. 
Strangers were brothers and sisters to him during his 
sickness, and strangers wept over his grave. He re- 
ceived able medical treatment from Rev. Dr. Lyth, while 
Rev. Mr. Hunt and family attended to his personal com- 
fort, and all were faithful to that immortal part which can 
never die. Mr. Birch was a gentleman of education and 
talents, having been bred to the law. 



236 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

I 

CHAPTER XIT. 

The National Dance — The Wedding — Death of the Princess— War with 
.Nakelo — The Lunatic — Evil Spirits — The Alarm— Strangling of a Wo- 
man at Bau. 

Dec. 24. Hearing that a national dance was to be 
performed this evening by Retova and a part of the Geer 
tribe, who have lately arrived at Bau from Mathuata, 
and being desirous of witnessing it, I repaired to Bau 
about noon, in company with Mr. J. Reese, an assistant 
printer in the employ of the mission at Vewa. We first 
called at the house of the king, and found all the house- 
hold engaged in preparing for the nuptials of the king's 
daughter with Navinde, which was to take place on the 
following day. The bride elect was receiving presents 
from the people of her tribe, consisting of mats, native 
cloth, sweet scented oils, baskets, beads, paint, scissors, 
knives, and many other things which Feejeeans value. 
Several hundreds of mats and bales of cloth, testified to 
the lady's rank, and the liberality of her people. 

We then called at the house of Tunitonga to see the 
princess, my little namesake, who, I had been informed, 
was sick. We found her very ill; indeed, she was prob- 
ably dying. Her nurse desired me to present some Ver- 
million to paint the little body after death. Two whales' 
teeth were placed at the feet of the child. When a child 
of rank dies, it is the custom to strangle one or more of 
its nurses to accompany it to the spirit land, as all Fee- 
jeeans have a great horror of dying alone. The spirits 
of the whales' teeth go with their spirits, while the teeth 
themselves are buried with the bodies in the grave. 
When the souls arrive at the spirit land, the nurse throws 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 237 

the teeth at a big dog, or some huge animal that may be 
standing in their way, because, if they had nothing to 
frighten him with, they could not pursue their journey. 

From the house of the Tunitonga we went to that of 
Thakombau. We found him seated near his favorite, 
Samonunu. A Tonga chief was present, and several 
other visitors. We had an opportunity, during our stay, 
of observing the manner in which food is served in the 
houses of the chiefs. There appear to be cooks em- 
ployed nearly all the time, as the Feejeeans have no set 
time for their meals. The chiefs do not eat together, 
and are always served separately. Two females placed 
before the party to be served, a wooden tray and 
some fresh green leaves. A small native pot was then 
brought, containing boiled fish, which were placed in the 
tray, and the water in which they were boiled was poured 
into a cocoa-nut shell, and handed to the chief, who drank 
it. Cooked tarro was placed on the leaves, and the dam- 
sels fanned the chief while he partook of his repast, at 
the close of which, the servants clapped their hands. 
The same ceremony was observed when he drank. Sa- 
monunu's meal was served in the same manner, and with 
the same ceremonies as that of the chief. All were 
served by different cooks, who invariably approached 
and retired on their knees. The food that was left by 
the superiors, was devoured by the servants and "kaises." 
Some messengers arrived while we were there; these 
entered on their hands and knees, and pronounced the 
word of respect, (< Ndua whoa." After delivering their 
message, all clapped their hands. The chief answered 
them, and then all hands were clapped again. 

Vatai sent for us to come to the house of Navinde, and 
we took leave of the royal couple. Samonunu expressed 
her regret that I did not reside at Bau instead of Vewa, 



238 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

and Thakombau asked if I wore gloves because I was 
afraid of getting cold in my hands. 

On our arrival at the house of the Lasakau chief, we 
were offered some native puddings, of which I am very 
fond, and having observed the cleanliness of the natives 
in preparing their food, I did not hesitate to eat some. 
We then repaired to a little distance to see a native oven, 
where food was being prepared for the grand wedding 
which was to take place on Christmas day. The oven 
was about ten feet deep, and forty in circumference. 
Stones were placed in the bottom, on which fire was put, 
then wood and stones. After the wood was consumed, 
the stones were sufficiently heated, and pigs were then 
wrapped in green leaves and laid in the oven, then hot 
stones, then pigs again, then another layer of stones, and 
after a sufficient number of pigs, the oven is filled with 
tarro, yams, or whatever vegetables they may wish to 
cook, then leaves, hot stones and earth are placed on the 
top, where they remain until the food is cooked. 

Navinde appeared very active and happy, said that he 
could not go to his house to see me, being so busy in su- 
perintending the preparations for the feast; but he had 
sent some puddings, and asked if I ate any of them. I 
told him that I did, and thought them very nice. 

As it was now time for the dancing to commence, we 
repaired to the tc vara" The square was surrounded with 
spectators, among whom, room was made for us. Soon 
we observed one of the dancers come from the inn, and 
squat like a monkey in the centre of the "vara." He 
was followed by one or two others, and they continued to 
assemble in this manner till they numbered about thirty; 
when they arose, the chanting commenced, and the dan- 
cers performed their evolutions for about fifteen minutes, 
when they all raced back to the hotel as though an army 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 239 

was pursuing them, and we saw them no more. All ap- 
peared disappointed. Mr. Reese said that he supposed 
a club dance was to be performed, which would be worth 
witnessing. 

Retova appears rather afraid, as he does not exactly 
understand how he stands with the old king on account 
of the murder of Tui Mathuata. He has brought the 
Geer people with him instead of the Mathuata natives. 
The dancers had painted their faces in a variety of pat- 
terns, and wore white turbans on their heads, and white 
bands around their arms and just below the knees. The 
other part of their dress was worn as usual. 

25. Mr. W. and myself started about nine o'clock, 
A. M., for Bau, being desirous of witnessing the ceremo- 
nies of a Feejeean wedding in high life. We went first 
to the house of the bride's father, where we saw the mar- 
riage portion and the bride. The latter looked quite 
modest and rather bashful. We remained here but a 
few moments, and then passed on to the new house that 
had been prepared for the bride. We found the happy 
bridegroom seated on the door sill, his face well be- 
smeared with dirt, and his dress not remarkable for its 
cleanliness. He desired us to walk into the house, and 
be seated near his mother. We observed in front of the 
building a wall of roasted fish about ten fathoms in 
length and five feet in height. We did not see the veg- 
etables, as they were in some other place with pigs and 
turtles. The floor of the house was spread with four or 
five layers of the best of Feejeean mats; these had been 
provided by the Lasakau tribe. In one corner of the 
house, a basket ten feet long, four wide and three deep, 
was suspended from the rafters, filled with green leaves, 
and on these were placed pigs and turtles. 

The Lasakau matrons (no maidens are allowed to take 



240 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

any part in the marriages) were seated in the centre of 
the house, leaving a broad space unoccupied near the 
door. On the right hand of the principal entrance, the 
mother of Navinde was seated with her " popalagi" 
guests. The Lasakau ladies all wore old "lekus," and 
their persons were oiled with cocoa-nut oil, scented with 
sandal-wood. Each one, the mother excepted, wore a 
garland of flowers thrown over one shoulder. The gar- 
lands were made of sweet-scented flowers. One was of- 
fered me, and I threw it over my neck, which seemed to 
please the company exceedingly. Navinde was ordering 
the arrangement of the food, and when all was completed, 
one old man said to the chief, " The food is now ready. 
We hope that the god will be pleased with your marriage, 
and that you will live long and happily with your young 
wife." The speech ended with clapping of hands. The 
bridegroom then took seven whales' teeth and sent them 
by four old men to Tanoa, with a complimentary message, 
and a request that the king would send his daughter to 
the house where his people were waiting to receive her. 
Navinde then departed, and was seen no more for the 
day in that vicinity. 

After this, two old Lasakau men and one old Bau man 
came in and seated themselves near the central door on 
the left. In a few moments the grand procession ap- 
peared, consisting of the bride and the married ladies of 
her tribe. Her mother was not present. The procession 
came singly, and moved very slowly. About one hun- 
dred preceded the bride, and then the lady herself ap- 
peared. She wore a band of " bula-leka " shells around 
her head, and bracelets of the same on her arms; a neck- 
lace of small whales' teeth on her neck, and in her hands 
she carried two large whales' teeth. She was arrayed 
in a new, handsome "leku," with a bale of marked na- 



LIFE IN F E E JE E . 241 

tive cloth attached to it, and a train of some forty yards 
in length; the latter trailed on the ground, and the for- 
mer was borne by two women. Oil was dripping from 
her person. As she entered the house, she laid the two 
large teeth at the feet of the old men, then turned and 
seated herself by the mother of Navinde. The rest of 
them now followed, and all were seated in the unoccupied 
part of the house. The Bau ladies were dressed in 
new, handsome " lekus," and wore flowers m their hair. 
After all were seated, the old Bau messenger presented; 
whales' teeth to the Lasakau messengers, accompanied^ 
with a long speech, enumerating the names and titles of 
the king, his greatness and goodness, and love for Na- 
vinde, which he had now shown by the gift of his daugh- 
ter, who was of high rank, being his daughter by the 
queen, who was a woman of the highest rank in Somo- 
somo. At the conclusion of the speech, the Bau ladies 
clapped their hands. The Lasakaus then took the teeth, 
and promised for their chief that the young Marama 
should ever be treated kindly — that they hoped wars 
would cease, in order that he might not be separated 1 
from her — that the winds might be favorable — that she 
might have a plenty of fish to eat, and that yams and all 
their food might ever be plentiful in their lands, and 
ended by complimenting the king upon his greatness and 
goodness, and pronouncing him a god w T hom his enemies 
could never kill. At the conclusion of this eloquent 
speech the Lasakau ladies clapped their hands, and the 
men departed. I inquired if the men were priests, and! 
was answered that they were not, and that the priests 
had nothing to do with marriages. 

After the departure of the men, the bridegroom's mo- 
ther and two other aged matrons proceeded to divest the 
bride of her ornaments. The oil was wiped from her per- 
16 



242 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

son, her handsome "leku " was exchanged for an old one, 
and taken, with all the other ornaments, by the mother- 
in-law of the bride. The Lasakau ladies had been chant- 
ing continually, from the time of their assembling till the 
present, only stopping while the old men made their 
speeches. The Bau tribe now commenced, and chanted 
for the space of an hour or more, when they concluded 
their music. The Lasakau ladies now proceeded to ex- 
change their 4£ lekus " with the Bau ladies, and began to 
chat and frolic as though the minister had departed. The 
garlands were also presented to the Bau party. 

After some little time, quiet was again restored, and 
the singing recommenced. We inquired if the ceremo- 
nies were ended, and were informed that the parties 
would remain and sing a little longer, and then retire. 

The Bau party were to take with them all the mats 
from the house, and bring the bride's portion in return. 
Tanoa had given his daughter ten servants, and Navinde 
had provided five to commence house-keeping with. 

Samonunu now came to chat with us, and from her we 
learned that the bridegroom would not visit at the house 
of the bride till the next day, or perhaps for a week, or a 
month. The feast is prepared for the Bau tribe alone, 
and is divided into portions according to the rank of the 
family, and sent to them. When the marriage is fully 
consummated, the Bau people are again feasted, and 
some of the elderly ladies of the tribe proceed to the 
house of the young married lady, and cut off the woolly 
tresses from her head; these had hitherto remained uncut 
from childhood. 

We now prepared to depart, when the mother of the 
chief desired us to go to a house belonging to him, where 
another of his wives resided (he had four), and partake 
of some refreshments, observing that she had some of my 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 243 

favorite puddings in store for me. We complied with 
her request, and then departed. 

On our arrival at the boat, we found a baked pig in it, 
as a present from the bridegroom, weighing about one 
hundred pounds. 

29. The Charles Wirgman, Capt. Waldron, arrived 
from America, by whom we received some newspapers 
and letters from home. We learn from Capt. W. that 
the Charles Wirgman visited the island of Manicola on 
the passage from Feejee to Manilla. The natives visited 
the brig in great numbers. Capt. Osborne used every 
precaution to prevent surprise, but the natives made an 
attempt to take the vessel. They did not succeed, how- 
ever, being repulsed with considerable loss of life, and 
the destruction of many of their canoes. Their shyness 
when we called to see them, was probably owing to this 
circumstance. 

Thakombau has sent to the bark seven whales' teeth, 
a root of yanggona, and a piece of native cloth. The 
teeth, yanggona and cloth are to be presented to the Na- 
tawa people, with orders from the royal city to that peo- 
ple to fish for Mr. W. Two young men of high rank 
were also sent to accompany Mr. W. to Natawa to col- 
lect " beech de mer." 

My namesake, the little daughter of Thakombau and 
Samonunu, died on the Sabbath. My informant inquired 
if it was good or bad for her to die on that day. No one 
of her nurses was strangled with her — another glimmer 
of civilization! Had a princess of her rank died two 
years ago, as many as two of her nurses would have been 
murdered to accompany her to the land of souls. 

Jan. 1, 1847. Mr. W. having sailed for Natawa, I 
once more take up my residence in my straw house. 

5. A boat called the Blackbird was robbed a few days 



244 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

since by the natives of Sau Kasa. The boat was stripped 
of its sails, and every thing belonging to it. 

12. The Mathuata chief and his people have left 
Vewa to-day, for their homes. 

Retova has heard that his enemies have burned his 
town since his absence, and that several places, such as 
Tavea, Naloa and some others, have joined his enemies; 
therefore he was afraid to return, as he would be obliged 
to pass Tavea and Naloa, and Elijah has gone with them 
for protection. 

14. Mrs. Hunt came to my room, followed by six 
strange natives armed with clubs. She held in her hand 
a broad leaf that was tied like a native pudding. 
" Would you like a pudding?" she asked. Having 
something of a headache, I told her I did not dare to eat 
it. "I will open the leaf," she said, "you may be 
tempted." The leaf was untied, and found to contain 
letters from my husband. The six men who were now 
my visitors had brought them from Motureke. Having 
conferred so great an obligation upon me, they appeared 
to feel that they had earned the privilege of remaining 
a long time in my house. As two hours would expire 
before I should be summoned to dinner, I began to con- 
trive to get rid of them. Three of the number asked me 
if it would be good for them to go and bathe. I told them 
it was good for them all to bathe. They said they would 
leave their clubs with their companions, and return again 
very soon. The other three seemed determined to re- 
main. After the departure of their companions, they 
said that they were sick for the want of sleep, and asked 
me if they should lie down upon the floor and sleep. I 
told them that I was about to visit Mrs. Lyth, and they 
must wait till my return. They said, "Yes, it is very 
good; we will go to Mr. Hunt's, and wait, and leave our 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 245 

clubs at your house." "No," I said. cc It is good for 
you to take all your clubs outside of the door." This 
being done, 1 went, and remained so long that my visit- 
ors were obliged to look for another place of rest. 

Mr. Hunt having procured some of the materials from 
the two whaling vessels that were destroyed at Ovalau, 
the white residents of Solavu, who have received many 
kind acts from the mission, offered to raise and board a 
house for him at Vewa. They have now completed their 
work, having raised and boarded a large building, which, 
when finished, will be the most comfortable dwelling in 
Feejee. It is situated on a lofty hill, fronting the sea, 
and commands a fine prospect of the surrounding bays 
and islands. 

17. A meeting was held at Bau yesterday, for the 
purpose of formally declaring war with Rewa. Messen- 
gers were sent to the towns in this vicinity, and the drums 
have not ceased to beat during the past night. 

21. A party of warriors have gone to attack Nakelo, 
whose chief appears to have recommenced hostilities be- 
tween the two kingdoms or states, on account of the 
daughter of Tanoa, who has been given to Navinde. 

Feb. 2. The warriors have returned to Bau, having 
destroyed Nakelo by fire. We do not learn that any 
lives were lost, the inhabitants of the town having fled. 
Elijah has returned from Mathuata, accompanied by two 
hundred of the Naikoratumba people, who have come to 
a £t solavu vaka masi." 

o. Accompanied by Dr. and Mrs. Lyth, we ascended 
the elevation back of the mission premises, to the " rara" 
to witness the presentation of the masi brought by the 
Naikorotumba people to the chief of Vewa. We found 
the Vewa people seated on one side of the "vara" A 
company of about one hundred and fifty of the visitors 



246 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

entered the "vara" in single file, each carrying a club 
or musket; one carried a large palm-leaf fan. These 
had " masi " wound around their persons, and laid in 
large folds falling from their shoulders. They passed 
through the "rara," and entered a narrow defile at the 
opposite end. Then followed fifty men, so enveloped in 
folds of "masi" that nothing could be seen but their 
faces; they stood on one side of the "vara" near the 
Vewa people. The natives who had passed into the de- 
file, now came dancing forth to the centre of the "vara" 
One appeared to be the master of ceremonies, giving di- 
rections in a loud voice for the different evolutions which 
they performed. Some of their movements were grace- 
ful, some ridiculous, but none which the most chaste 
might not witness. Every part of the body appeared to 
be exercised more than the feet. The figure of the dance 
was difficult and pretty. Could the Polka dancers of 
civilized lands witness this, they might learn modesty, 
at least. After the dance was concluded, the "masi" 
was left on the "vara" and the visitors all retired to the 
"bari." 

6. To-day a feast was spread on the "vara" for the 
Vewa visitors. It consisted of bread-fruit, bananas, 
mandrai, yanggona, and twelve baked pigs. All these 
were placed in large piles; eight or ten bushels in a pile. 
The men of Vewa with their chiefs were on one side of 
the "vara" and their visitors on the other. Several 
speeches were made, and answered by the spokesman 
(as they are here called) of each tribe. After all the 
formalities and ceremonies were over, the food was taken 
away by the visitors. 

8. Last night several of the Naikoratumba people di- 
verted themselves by tormenting one of their company 
who was partially deranged. They tied his hands behind 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 247 

him, knocked him about, made him walk over hot coals, 
and allowed him no rest at night. In the morning he 
eluded the vigilance of his tormentors, and leaped from a 
precipice ninety-three feet in height. He was found on 
the beach below, still alive. Some of his tribe proposed 
that the sufferer should be clubbed at once; but others 
said, " If we club him we shall offend the chiefs of Vewa, 
who are 'lotu;' we had better hasten while it is yet 
early, and bury him, and we will say that he killed him- 
self by the fall." While they were tying him up in a 
mat, two men were employed in digging a hole to serve 
for a grave, that the man might be buried before any of 
the Christians should become acquainted with the affair, 
and prevent them from showing their love to their suffer- 
ing brother. They were prevented, however, by a 
Christian, named Noah, who was passing near the spot, 
and inquired what they were doing. They told him they 
were about to bury a dead man. He disbelieved their 
statement, and ran to tell Dr. Lyth that he believed the 
man was alive. The Dr. hastened to the spot, and com- 
manded the men to untie the mat. As they did so, the 
sufferer raised his hand, and waved it as if for air. He 
was immediately taken to the " buri," where Dr. Lyth 
afforded such medical aid as the case required, and Noah 
was appointed his nurse. In a short time his senses were 
restored, and two days after, he was able to sit up, and 
appeared only to have injured his head on one side. 

16. At breakfast this morning Mr. Hunt gave some 
account of the conversion of the principal priest of Nan- 
dy. He renounced heathenism in consequence of be- 
coming angry with the gods of the lands because they 
did not cure him when he was sick. It is not uncommon 
for Feejeeans to get angry with their gods. Sometimes 
when they continue sick a long time, or meet with any 



248 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

other troubles, thej will take their clubs and dare them 
to come and fight, using the most provoking language to 
their godships that is to be found in their vocabulary. 
In this case the priest had been ill a long time, and had 
presented many offerings to his gods for the restoration 
of his health, but all to no purpose; the gods seemed to 
have other business to transact. A Tonga Christian 
was residing at the place, and advised him to try Eng- 
lish medicine. He consented, took medicines prepared 
by Mr. Hunt, and recovered. On his recovery he said, 
" I will serve the gods of Feejee no longer. I am very 
angry with them. I will now serve the iC popalagVs 
God." Accordingly he sought instruction in the Chris- 
tian religion, and appears to have become a good man, 
He states that for some time after he had renounced 
heathenism, his shaking, or convulsion fits would come 
on involuntarily, and just as they did when he believed 
that he held communication with the gods. This alarm- 
ed him much, and he inquired of the teacher what he 
should do when thus attacked. The teacher told him 
that he must pray heartily to God, and the wicked spirit 
would depart. He says that he prays now a great deal, 
and is not troubled. 

12. Intelligence has just been received of the murder 
of two while men belonging to Solavu. They stopped at 
a town on Vetelavu, about two miles from Vewa, to buy 
some fowls. Some trifling dispute arose abowt the price, 
when the natives murdered them. Namosi and some of 
his people will visit the place od. their returu from 
Ovalau. 

Thakombau has become angry with one of his bro~ 
thers, and banished him from Bau for the present, order- 
ing him to go to a town on Vetelavu. This he has not 
done, but has come to Vewa instead. Elijah came to 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 249 

ask the advice of Mr. Hunt about allowing him to re- 
main here. He thinks, as he was justly banished, that 
it would be w T rong to harbor him in V. Mr. H. was of 
the same opinion, and the prince has received orders to 
proceed. 

15. Last night a female servant belonging to Rev. 
Mr. Jaggar's family was severely attacked with teta- 
nus, accompanied with delirium. This disease is not 
uncommon in these lands, and usually proves fatal. Na- 
tives are often wounded in the feet t which being unpro- 
tected, they often take cold in the wound, and tetanus 
follows, then death. The disease is often accompanied 
with a partial delirium. When a young, good-looking 
woman is taken with it, it is said that some god wants 
her for a wife, and nothing is done for her relief, as they 
would not excite the anger of the god by trying to detain 
her. If an ordinary, poor girl is afflicted, the god wishes 
to obtain her for a servant, and she, too, is left to die. 
In this case, the servants awoke Mr. J. in the night, and 
told him that a god had taken possession of Atta. Mr. J. 
supposing that the girl had been troubled by a dream, 
answered that they must tell her to go to sleep. In the 
morning Dr. Lyth and Mr. Hunt were informed of her 
case. They found her speechless, and her whole body 
dreadfully convulsed. She was immediately steamed, 
according to the directions given in a medical work, by 
Dr. Beech, of America. This process soon relaxed her 
nerves; her jaws became unfastened, and the violence 
of the spasms abated. This is the second case of tetanus 
that has been relieved by steaming during the past week. 
The first was that of a woman belonging to Namosima- 
lua. When Dr. Lyth entered the house, he found seve- 
ral Christians surrounding the patient, and praying to 
God that the evil spirit might depart from the woman, 



250 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

who was shaking and foaming as the priests do, when 
they pretend that they are inspired. The doctor and 
Mr. Hunt soon had a tub of hot water ready, and com- 
menced steaming, and the patient, who had been speech- 
less for an hour, soon cried out, "Oh! I am cooked, — I 
am cooked." She is now recovering. 

The native Christians believe that people are possessed 
by evil spirits (and in this belief they are fully borne out 
by the Bible, both the Old and New Testament testifying 
to the same). They believe that some of the priests are 
really possessed by the devil, at times, while others are 
thought to be hypocrites. They think that the gods 
whom they formerly served were evil spirits, and that 
they are wandering about now, seeking whom they may 
destroy; but not possessing sufficient knowledge to dis- 
tinguish a disease of the body, and supposing that a per- 
son who is deranged in intellect is possessed by some 
evil spirit, and reading in the Scriptures that " This kind 
goeth not out but by fasting and prayer," they commence 
praying, without making use of any remedies. 

16. During our walk in the afternoon, we met Capt. 
Bowles, who commands a schooner from Tahiti. He 
was feeling very indignant against Thakombau. He had 
just been to inquire when his oil, that he had engaged 
and paid for, would be ready. The chief told him that it 
would not be ready for a long time, if ever, and that the 
Consul had offered him a higher price for the oil, and 
perhaps he should let him have it. Capt. B. replied that 
he had received remuneration for the cargo, and that he 
had no right to dispose of what did not belong to him. 
Thakombau then said, " Why did you come here? I did 
not send for you; however, white men make good eat- 
ing, — they are like a ripe banana." He then ordered 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 251 

Capt. B. and Mr. J., who was with him, to leave his 
house. 

A party of Bauans have returned from a hattle with 
Rewa, having lost twenty of their numher. When they 
approached Rewa, every thing was so silent that the in- 
vaders, supposing the town vacated, approached quite 
near, when they were suddenly fired upon, and twenty 
were killed. 

20. Received letters from Mr. W. The following is 
an extract: — 

" I sent a boy some days since to Fawn's Harbor in 
company with a native, with orders for a house to be 
built, as my schooner was to go there and fish. The 
place belongs to Somosomo, and its chief went on to see 
that every thing was in readiness for the business to 
commence on the arrival of the schooner. On the arri- 
val of the chief, yanggona was prepared, as is their cus- 
tom on receiving so illustrious a visitor. After the yang- 
gona had been prepared and drank, the chief said that 
an oven must be prepared and a pig killed. The boy, 
understanding the language imperfectly, thought that the 
oven was being prepared to cook himself in, and feeling 
no disposition to be cooked just at that time, took to the 
bush. After travelling two days he reached the bark, 
having eaten nothing since his flight. He stated that 
the chief had given orders for him to be baked, and he 
had no doubt but that the schooner would be taken, and 
all hands murdered. 

In a few days after the arrival of the boy, I received 
a letter from the captain of the schooner, saying that in 
consequence of the disappearance of the boy Nat, no one 
knew whether The natives were afraid that the hostage, 
who is a son of the chief, would be punished or killed, 



252 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

and nothing could be done in the way of business till the 
fate of Nat was ascertained. 

I sent on a messenger immediately, stating that the 
boy was safe; on the reception of which, the natives 
commenced fishing." 

SI. Sabbath. Ratu Luke, a chief who was banished 
from Bau a short time since, on account of his dislike to 
heathenism, was married in the chapel at the close of 
the forenoon services. He had been advised to marry 
the widow of the late Lasakau chief; but he said that 
she was of too high a rank for him, and that he should 
be happier with one of meaner birth. The bride and 
bridegroom were arrayed in native cloth, which was 
wound around their bodies to the size of a hogshead. 
Their costume was any thing but becoming. 

23. As Mrs. Hunt and myself were returning from 
our evening walk, we perceived the old nurse of Vatai 
seated upon a slight elevation, with her head bending 
towards her knees. As we approached, we observed 
that her hair had been nicely oiled, combed, and parted 
in front, and she had placed herself in that position that 
we might not fail to see her. She asked us if we would 
be angry if she wore her hair in that fashion, — if it was 
becoming for an old woman like her to wear it so, — if 
the grandmothers in our country wore their hair in that 
way, or if young people only dressed their hair so. 
After we had answered all her questions, she asked us if 
we would give her a comb to keep her hair nice. After 
this was settled, she kissed our feet, (she had knelt dur- 
ing the conversation,) and we passed on. 

Vatai has been married to Namosi, who has dismiss- 
ed his other wives. During his alarm,* when he was 
expecting daily to be murdered by the chiefs of Bau, he 
took to praying with all his might, dismissed his concu- 



LIFE IN PEEJEE. 253 

bines, was married, and baptized by the name of Mel- 
chisedek. Vatai has been baptized by the name of Lydia. 

One or more of the nurses of the women of rank often 
live with them through all their changes in life, and are 
buried with them. They are treated kindly, and appear 
to feel more affection for their charge than the mother. 

24. Our schooner arrived from Somosomo and vicin- 
ity. Capt. Smith states that a Natawan was killed and 
brought to Somosomo while he was there. The body 
was brought in a canoe, and on its arrival strings were 
attached to its wrists, and it was dragged from the shore, 
through the dirt, to the house of the chief. The joy of 
the chief, on seeing the body, was most extravagant, al- 
though it presented a most disgusting spectacle, having 
been killed three days, and being much swollen. The 
chief gave orders to have the " lovo " heated at once. 

This morning a messenger came from Navinde, desir- 
ing Dr. Lyth to come to Bau immediately, and attend to 
the Marama-lavu, who is dangerously sick. So great 
was the anxiety of the chief on her account, that he im- 
mediately followed the messenger, and earnestly desired 
the doctor to cure her, stating that he had presented 
large offerings to his god, but he supposed that he was 
angry because she was given to him when she had been 
promised to the chief of Nakelo. On their passage to 
Bau, Dr. L. took the opportunity of preaching on the 
folly of serving false gods. The lady was found to be 
feverish, but was not considered dangerous by the doctor. 

26. Rev. Mr. Hunt returned from Nukulau, where 
he went to receive letters which had come by the 
"Auckland." By him I received a large packet of let- 
ters, which had been in the charge of J. Chamberlain 
for some two years past. I feel very much indebted to 
Mr. Hunt for his kind perseverance in obtaining our let- 



254 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ters, which had been so unkindly detained from us for so 
long a period. 

27. We learn that a woman was strangled in Bau 
yesterday. Her husband had been killed at Rewa. The 
king sent word that she must live, and take care of her 
infant child. She declared, however, that she would die 
and rejoin her husband, for great was her love to him. 

March 4. The Lasakau people have returned from a 
battle with one of the Nakelo towns. They burned the 
town and killed nineteen of its inhabitants. One of the 
bodies of the slain was brought to Vewa last night. 
Whether it was sent as an insult to the Christians, or for 
a feast to the heathen, is not known. There are about 
ten families at Vewa that still adhere to heathenism, the 
men assisting in the wars, &c. The Christians will not 
allow them to cook and eat the body, and it is to be sent 
to another place. The schooner Sir John Franklin has 
been so unfortunate as to strike on one of the numerous 
reefs in this vicinity, and it is feared that she will be 
much injured. 

6. The schooner Sir John Franklin has escaped in- 
jury, and sailed for her destination. 

10. The American bark, Pilot, Capt. Hartwell, ar- 
rived from Salem, Mass. She belongs to S. Chamber- 
lain & Co., and we expected to receive letters from our 
friends at home. They supposed, however, that we 
should leave Feejee before the arrival of the Pilot, and 
did not write. I find that most people had rather re- 
ceive letters than write them. 

11. The bark ZotofF arrived, having gathered all the 
" beech de mer" from the reefs of Natawa. The bark 
sailed to the head of Natawa Bay. The captain states 
that the bay extends to the distance of 45 miles. It is 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 255 

fifteen miles in width, and no anchorage is to be found, 
except at the head of the bay. 

14. While the ZotofTlays at Vewa, preaching is held 
on board on the Sabbath. The missionaries preach al- 
ternately. To-day none of our crew attended the ser- 
vices, several being angry on account of being denied 
visiting Bau and spending the last night. 

15. Thakombau visited the missionaries, and said 
that he had received information from Tahiti, that France 
was intending to send missionaries to Feejee, and that 
priests were to be landed on the islands whether the na- 
tives were willing to receive them or not. He said that 
he was not willing to receive them, because by and by 
they would take possession of the lands of Feejee, as 
they had done at Tahiti, — that he was quite satisfied 
with the English " lotu" which he intended to embrace 
by and by, and that he wished to have nothing to do with 
France or her religion, — if missionaries came they might 
starve to death, as he was determined to allow them no 
food. 

He called at my room, said that I was a li Marama 
venaka," took my large arm chair, and placing it before 
the looking-glass, sat and viewed himself as long as he 
chose, and then departed. 

16. Considerable excitement seems to prevail at Bau 
regarding the French. The king has sent to Vewa and 
commanded English flags to be displayed, in case a 
French vessel should appear, at Vewa, Bau, and on as 
many of the other islands as flags can be procured, to be 
shown. 

17. Vewa was honored with a visit from the old king. 
The Kamba people are engaged in thatching the roof of 
the new mission house, and the king came, as he said, 
to tell them to do their work faithfully. The king and 



256 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

his son appear to improve every opportunity, of late, to 
show kindness to the mission. 

21. Notwithstanding it is said that a " buri " is ready 
to be consecrated with the body of Mr. W., or some 
of his people, in consequence of the affair with the 
Salem vessel in 1836, before mentioned, we are now about 
to visit that place, and shall no doubt become acquaint- 
ed with the brother of the murdered chief. Some of the 
white residents appear to think that every possible effort 
will be made at Ba to take the bark and bake the 
captain. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Departure for Ba — The Soul Destroyer — The Attack — Account of One 
Buried Alive. 



March 21 . All necessary arrangements being com- 
pleted for our voyage to Ba, we once more took leave of 
our kind friends at Vewa, and set sail for Motureke. 
Elijah accompanies us, with several of his people, who 
are to serve as trading men on shore, that the lives of 
our people may not be endangered on the barbarous 
coast to which we are bound. A young chief of Ba, 
who has been visiting at Vewa of late, also accompanies 
us with several attendants. 

Namosimalua has " tambued" the coast for the bark 
C. to fish at; but Thakombau has sent a large quantity 
of yanggona by Elijah, and orders for the " tambu" to 
be removed, and for the natives to fish for the Zotoff. 
Mr. W. has been told that Bau has no influence on the 
lands to which we go, — that Namosi is acknowledged as 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 257 

their head chief as far as Raverave, and beyond that the 
chiefs are all independent. 

29. We arrived at Naikarotumba. This town is 
under the dominion of Namosimalua. They have chiefs 
of their own, but he is their king. Several of this tribe 
have renounced heathenism, and are supplied with Tonga 
teachers. 

31. We anchored at Raverave. This place is fa- 
mous as being the residence of the great god, Dengai. 
The mountains a little back from the shore are called 
the Kauvandra. It is said that the god inhabits a cave 
in the side of the mountain. 

The following legend of this place has been kindly 
furnished me by Rev. Mr. Hunt, as it was told him by a 
native. 

An Account of Ravugalo, or the " Soul- Destroyer." 

" We do not know the origin of this god, whether 
he is the son of Dengai or not ; we know, however, 
that the god of the Kauvandra appointed him to kill 
souls. He resides at a place called Nembanggatai, 
where the spirits of men go when they enter the separate 
state at Kauvandra. The town is inhabited, and a par- 
rot is stationed there, who calls out when a spirit enters- 
it. If one soul comes, it calls once; if two, twice, and 
so on. The god and his children hear the calls of the- 
parrot, and hasten to prepare their clubs to kill the spir- 
its as they pass their dwelling. They do not succeed,, 
however, in killing all who are passing this dangerous 
spot; many are strong, and pass safely on to the Kau- 
vandra, while others are killed and eaten by the god and 
his sons, and are never seen again in this world or any 
other. Some of my people have heard the noise of the 
17 



258 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

god, as he knocks out the brains of his ghostly 
victims. 

Ravagalo is now dead, and the business is carried 
on by his sons. A short time since, as he was holding 
his club, ready to attack a poor soul that was passing, 
and carelessly sitting on a stump of brushwood, which 
had been left with a sharp point out of the ground, it 
penetrated his body and caused his death. 

He said to his children, * I am dead. Take me to the 
' buri.' My sons, look well to the souls to be eaten. 5 
A man who is employed as a messenger between the 
Kauvandra and this world, brought the news of his death 
here. 

The spirits who are so fortunate as to pass safely 
through the town of the ' Soul-Destroyer, 5 go to the 
Kauvandra on the top of the mountain. Many ladies re- 
side there, who often ascend to the highest points of the 
land to witness the wars of Feejee. On the arrival of 
the spirits at the Kauvandra, they proceed to a steep 
precipice, called Naindelinde. On the margin of this 
precipice two persons sit, father and son, who have been 
appointed to interrogate the new comers. c From whence 
have you come? 5 they ask. 'From the earth, 5 is the 
reply. c What have you been doing there? 5 The spirit 
then recounts his deeds which he performed while in the 
body on the earth. After he concludes his history, he is 
invited to take a seat on the broad end of a large steer 
oar, (which is placed directly over the precipice,) to 
take the air. From this the soul is suddenly plunged 
into c bulu.' Some say that only the bad spirits are sent 
to ' hulu,' and that the good ones remain at the Kauvan- 
dra with Dengai. Others assert that the spirits who 
have visited ' bulu,' visit this world and the Kauvandra 
at their pleasure. 55 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 259 

I have heard some accounts of punishments that are 
awarded to the souls of the wicked, but they are scarcely 
fit to record. One can never get a true idea of heathen- 
ism from books, as many of its most revolting character- 
istics cannot be penned. 

April 1. Anchored at Ba and were visited by Touaga, 
the brother of the murdered chief. He appears friendly, 
and has promised to employ his people to collect " beech 
de mer" for the vessel. Some red paint was presented 
to him with a black silk head dress, and a native comb 
ornamented with beads. He painted his face red, fixed 
his head dress on his head, placed his comb in his hair, 
then seated himself upon the table opposite the looking- 
glass, and seemed to think that he looked "plenty well 
enough." 

He had never seen a white woman before, and I 
obtained a share of his attention. After gazing at me 
intently for some time, he exclaimed, " Sa tha ni lewa 
ni vete, Venaka ni letva ni papalagi." "The Fee- 
jeean women are bad; white women are good." 

There are two chiefs of equal rank at Ba. Vakam- 
bua is the name of the other. He seldom visits any 
vessels that come here. I believe they are not related, 
and are often at enmity with each other. It is said that 
when Touaga's brother was killed, he was laying a plan 
for the murder of Vakambua. 

16. We are still at Ba, and have several houses 
under way for " beech de mer." Touaga often visits us, 
and, as yet, says nothing about eating us. We think 
the " buri " must be at the Kauvandra, as we hear noth- 
ing about it at this place. 

As I have presented Touaga with several articles 
which he appeared to value highly, he seemed to wish 
to make me some return, and one day inquired if there 



260 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

was any thing on shore that he should bring me. I told 
him if he had any " karwais," I should like some. He 
said there was an abundance on the land, and some 
should be brought. A small quantity was brought the 
next day. He made a great parade in presenting them. 
I pronounced them very good, and supposed the affair 
settled; when, to our surprise, before he left the vessel 
he asked Mr. W. what he would give him for the vege- 
tables that he had brought for me. He was asked what 
he wanted. " Beads," he replied; which were given 
him. This, however, is the only case of the kind. I 
have witnessed no such meanness from any other chief 
of Feejee. 

The females of this coast are not employed in col- 
lecting the " beech de mer," consequently, they do not 
visit the vessels. I have seen but few. 

Elijah preaches the gospel wherever he goes, and 
does not suffer any opportunity to escape without recom- 
mending it to his countrymen. 

We find that the name of Bau carries an influence 
with it wherever we go. The manners of the chiefs and 
people on this coast compare with those of Bau and vi- 
cinity, as the manners of our most remote little country 
villages would with those of the most fashionable cities. 
The chiefs appear to be treated with but little ceremony, 
and have but little authority. 

29. A boat belonging to some of the white residents 
of Feejee came alongside of our vessel. From its mas- 
ter we learn the following item of news: — A cutter be- 
longing to the Consul had been sent to a place called 
Mbaga, for the purpose of obtaining provisions. Three 
men were on board, and the cutter was anchored near 
the shore, that is, so near that the natives could swim to 
it with ease. Six natives went on board, and the men, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 26 1 

feeling no suspicion of evil, were completely off their 
guard. One was carelessly seated on the deck, another 
was leaning on the main boom, while the third was stoop- 
ing to arrange some matters in the cuddy. One native 
threw the man that was seated on the deck overboard, 
another sprung to clasp the man at the boom, but clasp- 
ed the boom, which gave the man a chance to escape; 
a third native attacked the other man, but he, having 
the advantage of his situation, being partly in the cuddy, 
slipped from him, and snatching a loaded pistol, discharg- 
ed its contents into the arm of one of the assailants, 
when they all jumped into the water, and swam to the 
shore. 

May 1. Our steward and one of the sailors have been 
sick for several days; the steward with the dysentery, 
and the sailor with inflammation of the lungs. 

Last evening Touaga came alongside in a canoe well 
filled with natives. They wished to come on board and 
sleep, but were refused. Perhaps it might have been 
safe for them to have come on board; but Mr. W. knew 
that our safety was more certain for them to be ashore. 

Elijah has gone to Raverave. 

3. The steward complained to-day of being in great 
pain. I inquired if he had eaten any thing except what 
I had sent to him from the cabin. He replied that he 
had not; but I learned afterwards that he had eaten two 
small fish, remarking, as he did so, that he could not 
live on rice, bread and gruel. 

George, the sailor, appears to be worse. A blister 
was applied to the chest, as he complained of difficulty 
in breathing. He wore it an hour, and then threw it 
overboard, saying that it did him no good. 

4. We are now sailing towards Namula. It is near- 
ly calm, and our progress is very slow. As we pass 



262 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

along the coast of this part of Vetelavu, the broken hills 
gradually slope to the water's edge, where the man- 
groves seem to form a barrier. Their defiles are filled 
with trees and shrubs of dark foliage, which, contrasting 
with the lighter verdure of the hills, make the whole 
appear increasingly beautiful. In the back ground are 
seen the lofty mountains of the interior, with their rug- 
ged and irregular peaks towering above the whole, and 
imparting a majestic as well as beautiful appearance to 
the scenery. 

Mr. W. was called at four o'clock this morning to 
George, whom they thought to be dying. He was 
placed in a warm bath, and other remedies being ap- 
plied, he was relieved. He suffers much; not being 
able to lie down at all. His sickness has been occasion- 
ed by sleeping on deck. Mr. W. had often spoken to 
him and the steward about it, but they chose to have 
their own way, and are now suffering the consequences 
of rejecting good advice. 

6. Namula. Mr. W. is busy, having a number of 
" beech de mer " houses in this vicinity. There are sev- 
eral towns about here, but none of them are visible. 
There are some half dozen petty chiefs, but none of 
much rank. They go out themselves to collect " beech 
de mer" the same as the " kaises." 

8. The Perseverance arrived from Vatea with fish, 
discharged, and sailed again the same day. The cap- 
tain brought no news. 

The steward and George are no better. Having tried 
many remedies for the cure of the steward, and all seem- 
ing to fail, salt and vinegar were recommended, but not 
liking the taste of it, he threw it away, and expressed a 
desire to drink lime water, which one of the crew had 
recommended; he said this was too strong, and after 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 263 

drinking it once, gave it up. Mr. W. or myself now 
give him his medicines instead of sending them to him. 

9. As the crew were raising the anchor, preparatory 
to our return to Ba, George came upon deck. His 
face was purple, and he was speechless. Mr. W. or- 
dered them to let go the anchor, and many remedies 
were tried for the relief of the sufferer; at length he was 
relieved by bleeding. He was in a fit for the space 
of two hours. In the evening he desired Mr. W. to 
write his will for him, which was done. He is very irri- 
table and impatient, cursing and swearing because the 
Almighty does not cure him, or take his life. His real 
name is Bernardo H. Bloom. He is a German by birth. 

10. We returned to Ba. An awning has been spread 
on the deck, and the sick sailor remained there during 
the day. I asked him to-day if he felt prepared to die, 
knowing that he had given up all hope of life. He said 
he supposed he was. I asked him if he read his Bible. 
He replied that he did. I told him if he did, he knew 
what constituted a Christian character, and asked him if 
he believed that he was a Bible Christian, and if he was 
conscious of loving and serving God. His reply was in 
the affirmative, and he added, "I never sinned much. 
God is merciful. He will not send me to hell for the 
few sins that I have committed." " I know nothing of 
your life," I replied, i( except that since you have been 
on board this vessel you have been exceedingly profane; 
and even since your sickness, you have uttered oaths 
enough to sink your soul in everlasting misery." "Oh, 
I can repent of that easy enough," was his reply. I 
conversed with him some time longer, but his mind ap- 
peared so completely blinded, that he could not be 
convinced he was a sinner, or needed the pardoning 
grace of God. Some of the sailors were present, and he 



264 LIFE IN FEEJEE 






would look at them with a scornful smile, seeming to 
say, " You will not frighten this fellow." 

One of the boys on board, named George , is sick 

w T ith the dysentery. He has been subject to slight at- 
tacks of this prevalent disease, but they have generally 
yielded to medical treatment and careful nursing. Being 
somewhat frightened when he is unwell, he is unlike the 
old sailors, and is willing to take proper medicines and 
food, and thus subdue the disease before it becomes 
dangerous. 

11. Elijah has returned from Raverave, and we are 
disappointed to learn that Rev. Mr. Hunt, whom we 
have been expecting would visit this part of the coast, 
has returned to Vewa. We hoped to receive his advice 
for our sick ones, as we have studied our medical books 
through, and exhausted all our knowledge to no purpose. 
The steward has been taken into the house on deck, 
where he can be attended by Mr. W. and myself. He 
is a most valuable man as a steward, and his services 
have added very much to the comforts of our voyage. 
We received letters by Elijah from our friends, — the 
missionaries at Vewa. 

14. We anchored off the dominions of Vakambua, 
Mr. W. having a house at this place for fishing. There 
is a little schooner anchored here called the Venus, em- 
ployed by Capt. Osborne, who arrived at the islands a 
short time since in the brig Tim Pickering, of Salem, 
Mass.; but the vessel, striking on a reef soon after its 
arrival, has gone to Sydney for repairs. 

15. We received a visit last evening from the super- 
cargo of the Venus, who stated that he had come to get 
houses built on this coast for " beech de mer," and that 
he was surprised to find that Capt. W. had taken pos- 
session of the whole coast. He proposed that this house 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 265 

should be given up to him, as he must get a hold some- 
where, and if this one was not left to him, he should go 
down the coast and see what he could do. He wished 
to get along peacefully, if possible, but he must have 
houses here on some terms. Mr. W. replied that the 
opposite coasts were far more extensive, and he thought 
he might find room there; however, he had no objection 
to giving up the house to him. 

16. Elijah and the supercargo visited Vakambua, to 
arrange matters relative to giving the house into other 
hands. Vakambua said that he would not do it, — that 
he was the friend of Elijah, who had given him yang- 
gona to fish for the bark; moreover, the supercargo had 
sent to try to buy the house, — that he was a bad man, 
and might go away from his lands. The supercargo 
hearing this became angry and insulting to Elijah, when 
Vakambua gave orders that said supercargo should be 
clubbed. Elijah said, "No; let no harm come to him." 
After a long conversation, an agreement was made 
that another house should be built for the supercargo. 
Vakambua said aside to Elijah, " Red fish shall go to 
his house, and black to the bark's." 

18. Our sick sailor had another distressing fit last 
night. Touaga, the chief, inquired if he might not take 
him on shore and bury him. Mr. W. told him that he 
was still alive, and " papalagis " did not bury their peo- 
ple alive. "Oh, but he is dead," he replied; "he has 
no spirit in him, and why should you keep him here? 
he is a great deal of trouble, and Marama is all the time 
preparing food and medicines for the sick that are on 
board; she will not have so much to do if this man is 
laid in the ground." Mr. W. told the humane chief that 
the man could not be buried till life had departed, and 
that a man lived as long as he breathed. 



c 266 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Elijah said that when he was a heathen, he had many 
people buried alive. At one time a young woman be- 
longing to his establishment was sick, or rather weak 
for a long time. He thought she would never recover, 
and had a grave dug. She was then called out of the 
house to see some strange monster that had appeared on 
the waters. When she came out of the house, she was 
seized and thrown into the grave. She shrieked and 
cried out, "Do not bury me, — I am well now." Her 
cries were of no avail. Two men stood upon her body 
and held her down, while others threw on the earth, and 
thus she was buried. 

22. The boy George has recovered, and the steward 
is better. Bernardo is very low. I have conversed with 
him several times upon the importance of repentance, but 
he still continues to curse God for his afflictions. 

We have removed from the dominions of Vakambua 
to those of Touaga. 

A small boat belonging to Solavu has been here, and 
we learn that Revva appears to be gaining strength, and 
Garenggeo exhibits a good deal of warlike ability and 
courage, while Phillips, being almost constantly supplied 
with rum, is growing daily more imbecile. 

There appears to be some misunderstanding between 
Touaga and Vakambua. The latter sent to a town be- 
longing to the former for some pigs, which were refused. 
Vakambua then sent a whale's tooth to a mountain tribe 
for them to burn the town of the offenders, and kill as 
many of its inhabitants as possible. Touaga, being made 
acquainted with the affair, hastened to the aid of his peo- 
ple. A battle was fought, and Touaga lost nine of his 
warriors, that were taken to Vakambua, who kept as 
many as he wished for his own use, and sent the rest as 
presents to his allies. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 267 

25. Touaga and the mountaineers are still fighting. 
We have seen the smoke and flames arise from four dif- 
ferent places, and we suppose that towns are burned 
there. 

Our steward is much worse again. 

26. Natives have been to the vessel to-day, but dif- 
ferent stories are told by them about the difficulties on 
shore, therefore I do not think it best to record them, 
except to say that four empty towns were destroyed by 
the enemy. 

28. Touaga has been off, and says that the war is 
ended; that he has i( soroed" to Vakambua because he 
did not wish the fishing to be interrupted; but by and by 
Vakambua should " soro " to him. 

When we left Natemba, Mr. W. took away the Cl beech 
de mer " pot, as Vakambua's people did not get fish 
enough to pay the way. They sent word to the chief 
that the pot was wanted at another place, but sometime 
hence the schooner should be sent there, when they could 
re-commence fishing. To-day a Vewa man has arrived 
from Vendoga, where the pot was sent, and says that 
Vakambua has sent word that all the Vewa men must go 
on board the bark, as he shall send an armed force to 
take the " beech de mer" pot, and carry it back to Na- 
temba. Elijah has returned to Vewa, but his brother, 
Korondvarasa is here, and says that he will go and make 
all straight with Vakambua, who, in reality, does not 
care to fish for any one, although he likes to have a trade 
house in his vicinity, so that if he or his people should be 
in want of any article, they can fish enough to get it; 
having received large presents, too, from Elijah, he, is 
ashamed not to appear to do something. 

29. Ezekiel, a son of Namosimalua, who is at one of 
our trade houses, has been wounded by the bursting of a 



268 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

musket. Mr. W. has sent for him to be brought to the 
vessel. 

June 4. Korondvarasa has returned from Natemba, 
having made arrangements for the schooner to go there, 
as the people are done fishing where the schooner has 
been laying the last few weeks. 

Ezekiel has arrived, being much burned and badly 
wounded. His father also arrived in the morning, bring- 
ing us letters from Vewa. 

The steward complained in the morning of the heat, 
and wished to have an awning spread on the quarter- 
deck, which being done, he was removed, and said 
he felt much cooler. He disposed of his effects, said 
he had but a few hours to live, thanked us many times 
for our care of him during his sickness, and expressed a 
hope that his sins were pardoned. About seven o'clock, 
as Mr. W. and myself were standing by him, he died. 

5. This morning a coffin was prepared for all that re- 
mained of our faithful steward. The body was put into 
it, and it was placed near the gangway, the national flag 
was raised half mast, and all stood with heads uncovered 
while prayers and the burial service were read from the 
English prayer book. The coffin was then lowered into 
a canoe and taken to the shore, where it was buried near 
the trade house. Namosimalua went in the canoe, and 
prayed at the grave. The name of the steward was 
Thomas Williams, of Baltimore. During his sickness 
he was always patient and grateful. He prayed a great 
deal, and appeared to have a good hope in Christ. 

9. Bernardo died about eleven o'clock, P. M. He 
continued irritable and impatient till the last. A few 
hours before his death some warm tea was offered him, 
and, finding that he could not swallow it, he spit it from 
his mouth, and threw the cup from him in the most spite- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 269 

ful manner. He was continually angry with God that he 
did not end his sufferings, and take him to heaven. 
What an awful state in which to leave the world! as 
though a man might curse and swear, practise every im- 
purity, and then go to heaven at death. What would 
heaven be with such spirits, who die blaspheming their 
Maker! 

After his body was placed in the coffin, the fiftieth 
Psalm was read, and the burial service as before, and 
the body was taken ashore and buried by the side of the 
steward. 

Ezekiel's wounds are doing well, but he is not able to 
sit up yet. 

19. Capt. Waldon has arrived on this coast in the 
Charles Wirgman, for the purpose of collecting "beech 
de mer." Capt. Hart well's boat is at Undu, where they 
have commenced fishing. 

24. Mr. W. left the vessel after tea, to look at a fish- 
ing net which he had set at some distance off. He had 
scarcely gone, when I heard sounds of quarrelling on 
deck. I repaired immediately to the deck, where I saw 
our steward, who was an Italian, and one of the sailors 
embracing each other with more vigor than love. The 
blood was streaming from the face of the sailor, and their 
glaring eyes and angry countenances looked any thing 
but becoming. William, the pilot, was quietly seated on 
the harness-cask, and the second mate had removed to a 
situation where he could have a better view of the fight. 
Two sailors were seated on the rail, and the cook was 
sitting at the door of the caboose smoking his pipe. I 
asked if there was no one to part these men. " Mr. S.," 
said the pilot, " why don't you part them?" No answer 
being made, I said, " Mr. Smith, why do you not stop 
that business?" "Me no stop dem if dey fight till dey 



270 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

die," was the reply. I stepped up to the combatants and 
commanded them to stop at once. I then told the stew- 
ard to collect his dishes, which had been scattered in the 
affray, and go aft, and not go forward again till the ar- 
rival of his captain. The sailor takes every opportunity 
to insult and provoke the steward. When the captain 
returned, he demanded an account of the affair from the 
one that stands in the place of a second mate. He said 
dat if he did interfere, dey would have pitched right into 
him. "And so you left your duty to be performed by 
Mrs. W. What a courageous man you are!" said the 
captain. 

29. Vendogo. The Charles Wirgman has passed us 
on its way to Undu. The anchor of the ZotofF was soon 
tripped, and we followed and anchored near. Capt. 
Waldon passed the afternoon and evening with us. 

July 4. We had roast pork, plum puddings and apple 
pies for dinner fore and aft. The national flag was 
raised, and big guns were fired at sunrise, noon and 
sunset. 

10. The Bark Pilot arrived to fish on this coast. 

Elijah has arrived, bringing us letters from Vewa, 
from which we learn of the death of J. H. Chamberlain. 

27. Elijah held a prayer meeting on shore, and Ko- 
rondvarasa sent a request that the Christians would 
pray to God that the people would leave fishing for 
" beech de mer" as the Vewa people were tired and 
wished to go home. 

Ezekiel has recovered from his wounds. 

One of the crew belonging to the bark has gone to 
Vewa for medical aid, being attacked with dysentery. 

Aug. 1. Divine service was performed on board in 
the native language, by a local preacher from Vewa. 
Ten of the Vewa Christians were present, and the man- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 271 

ner in which they passed the Sabbath should serve as an 
example to the white men on board this vessel. 

2. Since we have been on this coast, I have had no 
opportunity of learning the customs of the people, but I 
presume they do not differ much from other portions of 
these lands. Cannibalism is as prevalent here as at 
other places. Our time has been spent in visiting from 
one trade house to another along the coast from Undu to 
Natimba. The dialect being somewhat different here 
from that of the other places that I have visited, I cannot 
understand it as well. 

3. Elijah has again left us for Vewa. When Mr. W. 
commenced fishing on this coast, he promised to each 
chief who would collect fifty bags offish, a present of one 
musket, one keg of powder and one pig of lead, but told 
them if they did not get that quantity they should have 
no present. One chief procured twenty, and demanded 
his present. Mr. W. told him that he promised nothing 
unless they procured fifty bags, yet he was willing to 
present him with one musket, considering that a fair pro- 
portion. The chief said that if he could not have the 
whole, he would not have any thing. Mr. W. told him 
it was very good for him not to take any thing, as he 
promised him nothing unless he brought him fifty bags. 
The chief then told the sailors that he should burn the 
" beech de mer " house as soon as he reached the shore, 
but they must not inform the captain till fye left the bark. 
As soon as he had left, Mr. W. was informed of his 
threat. " A Feejeean never informs when he intends 
mischief. He has said that, in order that I may recall 
him and give him what he wants," said Mr. W. The 
chief, on his arrival ashore, took the trade chest from the 
house and carried it off. There was nothing valuable in 
it, however, and when Olamba, another chief, came in 



272 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

from the reefs, he sent for the chest, which was returned, 
with a request that the musket he had refused should be 
sent to him. The request was not obeyed. 

6. The schooner Perseverance has left fishing at Na- 
timba, and the Charles Wirgman also, as the quantity of 
fish they obtained was too small to pay their way. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Departure from Ba — Arrival at Bau — Second Destruction of Rewa — Arri- 
val of the Missionaries — Abandonment of the Mission at Somosomo — 
The Dinner — The Coronation. 

Aug. 15. Having settled the fishing business on this 
coast, we are now on our way to Vewa. The bark 
Catherine and the Charles Wirgman are near. Mr. W. 
and myself took tea on board the C, and passed the eve- 
ning. Our schooner has sailed for Vewa. We learn 
that our cutter, the Star, in which Elijah and some of his 
people sailed, has been wrecked on one of the reefs. 

We observe some few towns as we pass along the 
coast, which look romantic and pretty in the distance. 
Should we visit them, however, we should at once be re- 
minded that we are in Feejee. It is said that the nearer 
we approach the sun, the plainer we see its spots. This 
is true of Feejee. 

28. We have at length arrived off Bau and Vewa, 
after a passage of three weeks. The distance is one 
hundred miles. 

On our arrival at the anchorage, we found there was 
but just water enough to admit of my being landed on 
that part of the island opposite to the mission. As I had 
not stepped on land for four months, I was anxious to go 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 273 

on shore, and unless I went immediately I should be 
obliged to wait till the next morning; so before the an- 
chor was down, a boat was lowered, and, in company 
with four Feejeeans, beside the boat's crew, we started, 
and soon arrived at Vewa. The Feejeeans conducted 
me across the little isle to the new house occupied by 
Rev. Mr. Hunt and family, who had previously informed 
me that my bed had been removed from my little straw 
house to a room in the new one, which was reserved for 
my use. I entered the open door very softly, and ap- 
proached the study. Mrs. Hunt stood with her back to 
the door, and was saying to Mr. H., " The vessel has 
anchored. Capt. and Mrs. Wallis will soon be here. 
Let us go down to the shore and meet them." " No," 
said I, "you need not go. Mr. W. cannot leave so 
soon." I need not add that my reception by this affec- 
tionate and estimable couple was the same as ever. I 
soon received a kind greeting from Dr. and Mrs. Lyth, 
and Mr. and Mrs. Jaggar. I was almost wild with joy 
at being where I could move about without danger of 
stepping into the sea, and where I could enjoy good so- 
ciety again. 

29. Rev. Mr. Hunt preached on board the bark. 
None attended the services except the officers and stew- 
ard. 

The sick sailor at Vewa is no better. Mr. W. fears 
that his disorder is incurable. 

Sept. 1. A dense column of smoke has been seen to 
arise this morning in the direction of Rewa. As Ran 
and the Lasakaus have gone there for a battle, Rewa 
may have been burned. 

2. Rewa has been destroyed, and several hundred 
massacred. The place was betrayed, as before, by some 
enemy within the camp. We do not understand that the 
18 



274 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

cowardly Phillips does much in the fighting way. Bau 
fights his battles, and butchers his kindred, and he boasts 
of his victories. Garenggeo has again retired to the 
mountains. Word was sent to him the night before the 
massacre to escape, as they had no wish to kill him. 
Phillips would prefer that he should be killed, as he 
would then reign king without fear; but Tanoa, the King 
of Bau, rather favors him. It is said that when the war- 
riors were at Natawa, several messages of a pacific char- 
acter passed between the King of Bau and Garenggeo. 
Thakombau calls this last war the Nakelo war, and says 
it will not end till that chief is killed. 

5. Dr. Lyth preached on board the bark. On Satur- 
day I visited the vessel, and the steward inquired if there 
was to be preaching on board on the Sabbath. I told 
him there would be. " Well, ma'am," he said, "I 
should think that the captain and yourself had better go 
on shore to meeting, as the crew will not attend the 
preaching on board." M Very well," I replied, " they 
will not be compelled to attend. Preaching will be held 
on board while we remain here, whether they attend 
or not. The crew are invited, but if they choose to 
appear so much like heathen as to stay away, they are 
at liberty to do so." Dr. L. informed me on his return, 
that all the crew attended the services. 

They supposed, probably, that if they did not hear the 
preaching, it would be given up, the captain would pass 
the Sabbaths on shore, and they would have the liberty 
of spending the day as they pleased. 

The sailor that was discharged at Manilla, leavened 
nearly the whole lump. The sick man at Vewa and one 
of the boys are the only exceptions. The name of the 
man is Thomas Lloyd, and that of the lad, John Derby. 

A few days since, the bark Auckland arrived at Vewa 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 275 

from Rewa, and the white residents here had a shameful 
frolic in consequence of it. It is said that some of them 
were so furious that murder would undoubtedly have 
been committed had not the natives interfered, and se- 
cured them by tying them fast. 

An old native belonging to this place came in this 
morning looking exceedingly troubled, and said, " It is 
very bad for rum to be brought here, for it endangers 
our lives, and our towns are likely to be burned during 
the drunkenness of the ( papalagis.' We have had a 
sad time since this vessel lay here. Would it not be 
good to make a law, banishing from this isle any person 
who brings rum on shore?" " Yes," said Mr. Hunt, 
" it is good for the chiefs to make such a law at once." 

15. The missionary brig John Wesley arrived. This 
vessel was lately built in England, at an expense of thirty 
thousand dollars, for the service of the Wesleyan Mis- 
sion in the South Pacific. An example worthy of imita- 
tion! Rev. Walter Lawry, the general superintendent 
of the South Sea Missions of the Wesleyans, has arrived, 
being on a tour to visit the mission stations. Rev. 
Messrs. Malvern and Ford, with their families, have been 
sent to reinforce the Mission at Feejee. Rev. Mr. 
Watsford and his wife have arrived from Ono, and Rev. 
Mr. Calvert from Lakemba. The district meeting is to 
be held at Vewa. 

19. We learn that six Feejeeans have been murdered 
on Vetelavu, not far from Vewa, under the following cir- 
cumstances: — A cask of oil had floated to their shores, 
and a Manilla man living at Vewa, tried to purchase it. 
The natives refused to sell it, and he threatened that he 
would complain of their refusal to Navinde at Bau. Ac- 
cordingly, on his return, he presented a musket to the 
chief, and desired him to send for the oil, which he did, 



276 LIFE IN FEEJEE 



with orders for his people to kill as many as possible, if 
the owners of the oil still refused to sell it. They did 
refuse, and the consequence was the murder of six of 
their tribe. 

20. Sabbath. Rev. Mr. Ford preached on board the 
Zotoff, and Rev. Mr. Jaggar preached at Bau. The 
crew of the John Wesley attended the English services 
on shore, and, unlike the crew of some vessels, they were 
well dressed, and appeared like civilized beings. Their 
captain (Buck), is an efficient and pious man. 

In the afternoon Rev. Mr. Calvert preached on board 
the John Wesley. Mr. W. and several of his people at- 
tended the services. 

22. It was decided at the meeting which was held last 
week, that the mission station at Somosomo should be 
given up, for the present, as the chiefs of that people, 
with their tribes, continue to reject the gospel, while 
there are many other places in Feejee where they are 
crying li Come over and help us." The John Wesley 
has sailed for Somosomo, to bring Rev. Messrs. Williams 
and Hazlewood with their families, and the property be- 
longing to the mission. 

23. Rokotuimban, one of the princes of Bau, favored 
the missionaries with a visit. He is considered to be a very 
bad chief, is much opposed to Christianity, and seldom 
visits the Christians. A few Sabbaths since, he encour- 
aged the rabble at the city to throw stones at the mis- 
sionary who was preaching there. He did not succeed, 
however, as none were willing to throw the first stone. 
The dinner being served, the chief seated himself next to 
Mr. Hunt, and called for a plate. He then desired to be 
helped to a part of every thing on the table. When he 
began to make his demands upon the castor, I regretted 






LIFE IN FEEJEE. 277 

that its contents were so mild. A little cayenne pepper 
might have done him good. 

25. A visit from Thakombau. He manifested the 
greatest friendliness towards the " lotu," and desired 
Rev. Messrs Lawry and Hunt to visit Ban, and try to 
persuade his father to build a house, and have a mission- 
ary go to Bau and live. This is certainly very desirable. 
Bau is the seat of cannibalism, and if a missionary family 
lived there, it might prevent many of their horrible feasts, 
as the chiefs are now becoming ashamed of them, and 
try to conceal them as much as possible. 

26. Messrs. Lawry and Hunt visited Bau, and talked 
with Tanoa about establishing a mission station there. 
The king said, " Ah, yes, the ' loiu ' is very good, but I 
am not ready yet. Wait a little, till I have killed off 
three towns, and then I will build you a house, you may 
come and live here, and if my people wish to i lotu, ' they 
can." 

30. The John Wesley arrived from Somosomo, bring- 
ing the missionary families. The following is the list of 
appointments by the district meeting: — Rev. Messrs. 
Hunt, Lyth and Jaggar, Vewa; Rev. Mr. Williams, 
Bua; Rev. Mr. Hazlewood, Ono; Rev. Messrs. Wats- 
ford and Ford, Nandy; Rev. Messrs. Calvert and Mal- 
vern, Lakemba. Rev. Mr. Hunt was re-appointed chair- 
man. 

Oct. 4. The mission families, with Mr. W. and my- 
self, were invited to dine on board the John Wesley. 
We left Vewa in a large double canoe, and our whale 
boat. On arriving at the vessel after a pleasant sail, 
Capt. Buck welcomed us on board his very nice brig. 
Our dinner was excellent — thanks to the art of preserv- 
ing meats, vegetables and fruits. The green peas and 
beans, the currant, gooseberry and damson tarts, did not 



278 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

come amiss to those who had been in Feejee some two 
or three years. 

After we had dined, Dr. Lyth politely showed the la- 
dies over the vessel, which seems to be well fitted for its 
business. Its finish is plain, but good. We returned 
to Vewa about five, P. M., well pleased with our visit. 

5. Mrs. Williams informs me that they have had 
much to endure at Somosomo. The natives are impu- 
dent and intrusive. They could seldom enjoy their food 
in peace till their doors were guarded by a faithful dog. 
One day a messenger from the king came to the house. 
The dog would not let him enter, and he took their little 
boy, who was playing outside, and threw him at the ani- 
mal as if he had been a stone. 

At one time, while Dr. Lyth and family were stationed 
there, the king being ill, sent for him to visit him profes- 
sionally. The doctor, after prescribing the medicines 
which his case required, began to converse with him 
upon the all important subject of religion. The king at 
once became furious, and seizing the doctor by the skirt 
of his coat, held him fast while he called for some one to 
bring him a club. The queen rushed between them, 
telling the doctor to run. He made his escape, leaving 
the skirt of his coat in the king's hand, fully expecting to 
be followed and murdered. Fearing to alarm Mrs. Lyth 
if he appeared before her till he became somewhat com- 
posed, he repaired to the house of Mr. Williams. In a 
short time an old woman appeared. She entered the 
house on her knees, trembling, and holding the doctor's 
hat, and the torn skirt on a stick. She said that the 
anger of the king had passed away, and there was no- 
thing more to fear. The old woman was followed by the 
Marama, who begged that they would forget what had 
passed. A chief officer from the king followed the Ma- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 279 

rama, who begged pardon of the doctor in the Feejeean 
manner. The king would undoubtedly have murdered 
the doctor in his passion, if a weapon had been near, but 
when his anger was over, he was quite alarmed for the 
consequences. He had never before shown any direct 
hostility to the missionaries. He died while Mr. and 
Mrs. W. resided there. 

Tuilili, his son, reigns in his stead. He is one of the 
greatest cannibals of Feejee. His licentiousness is of 
the very lowest order. He has a brother whose right to 
the name of king is equal to his own. They are not on 
good terms, however, and an old man, a brother of the 
late king, has been sent for and made king. He exerts 
no authority. Tuilili reigns, but had his uncle crowned, 
that his brother might not interfere. The following is an 
account of the manner in which kings are made in Fee- 
jee, as furnished me by the kindness of Rev. Mr. Wil- 
liams. 

" On the 19th of May, it was publicly announced that 
in ten days Tuithekau would be publicly recognized as 
king. The interval was to be spent in making prepara- 
tions for the great event. On the 29th, the food which 
had been prepared for the occasion was taken to the 
house of Tuilili for inspection, and then placed in large 
baskets in a house called New Nasema. Tuilili then 
made his appearance, and was greeted with the words, 
c Sa venaka mai, 9 ' It is good that you have come. 5 Or- 
ders were then given to avoid all sneezing, after which a 
bale of cloth was given to Tuithekau, and received for 
him by Na Mata. Tuilili then advanced to the house 
where Tuithekau sat, with twenty whales' teeth, which 
he handed to Na Mata, and said that he had come to 
make Tuithekau king, and .that if all Tuithekau's bro- 
thers had been there, he only would have been made 



280 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

king — that he must take care of his health, and not be 
out late, and allow them to continue as a land and a peo- 
ple. 

This speech was answered by Na Mata, who, after 
running over a long list of gods of both genders, conclud- 
ed by wishing health to the king, and death to his ene- 
mies. A root of yanggona was then presented by a chief 
of a neighboring town, which Na Mata received and 
prayed over. The chief of the town of Lauthala then 
approached, and after the word of respect had been 
uttered, presented ten whales' teeth, requesting that the 
chiefs of Somosomo would ' be of a good mind ' towards 
Lauthala. The teeth were received by Na Mata, and 
another prayer was offered. 

Thanks were then given for the food, after which, it 
was divided into twelve portions for those that were pres- 
ent, and five to be sent to towns that were not represent- 
ed. The people separated to eat their food, and then 
assembled on the ' vara.' Two mats were placed under 
the shade of a large tree, and a musquito curtain laid 
over them. Tuithekau seated himself on these, arrayed 
in black £ masi,' two hundred yards in length, holding in 
his hand a dirty rod. Na Savasava and Korai Ruki 
(priests) then walked up to Tuilili, who was seated on 
the ' vara,' holding in their hands a new head-dress. 
This they unfolded slowly, each holding a side, and 
standing so that the lighter end would be wafted towards 
Tuithekau. While they were unfolding the head-dress 
they muttered something, but in too Sow a tone to be un- 
derstood. With the unfolded head-dress the priests ad- 
vanced slowly towards the king, giving him and the 
Wailaga chiefs some advice, such as • You must not rule 
the people with a high hand. You must be industrious, 5 
&c. The priests then bound one end of the head-dress 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 281 

(which was a piece of native muslin) round the arm of 
Tuithekau, and relieved him of his rod, saying that it 
was the business of a king to sit and receive presents, and 
urged the people to give liberally. The priests, with sev- 
eral old men, then walked four times round a circle with 
their hands clasped, and looking upwards with a move- 
ment of the nose as if smelling for dead men, and then seat- 
ed themselves before the king 'mid a clapping of hands, 
which continued till stopped by the master of ceremonies. 
They then made a sudden turn which brought their backs 
and sides towards the king, and remained in that po- 
sition, as still as Quakers, for some moments. They then 
took the long black ' masi, 3 and the cloth which had 
been presented to the king, to Tuilili. A pause of some 
eight or ten minutes succeeded, and then six women 
made their appearance, three bearing each a pot of boil- 
ed fish, and the other three boiled yams. As they ap- 
proached the new king, they knelt three times, then pre- 
sented the food, which His Majesty accepted, and sent a 
portion to Tuilili, who, not wishing to eat, went to sleep. 
After His Royal Highness had partaken of the repast, 
some old men marked him on the shoulders with red 
paint, and then took him upon their shoulders and car- 
ried him to his house. Thus ended the ceremony of the 
Coronation." 

The following account of a priest at Somosmo was 
given by Rev. Mr. Hazlewood. 

" In the town of Nasarata i loma, the leading charac- 
ter of the place is a priest, named Ra Uageawa. He 
does not owe his preeminence to his rank, neither is he 
under any obligation to the beauty of his person, the 
sweetness of his temper, or the high character of his 
morals. This being, however, has a considerable influ- 
ence, and numbers in these and other parts of Feejee 



282 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

look upon him with dread. Many believe that he is able 
to foretell the events of war, and that in his hands are 
the issues of life and death. He associates with kings, 
and affects to despise men of low degree. Yet, notwith- 
standing his great fame, he is very poor, and is obliged 
sometimes to make use of extraordinary means to pro- 
cure ordinary supplies. He has several times pretended 
to have a commission from Jehovah to call upon us for 
property, in consideration of his having been our defence 
from war and protection from fire. As he has not, thus 
far, produced any order or note of hand, we have felt it 
our duty to tell him that we were quite satisfied that if 
he had been so commissioned we should have been ap- 
prised of it by our God, and that in the absence of such 
apprisal we must decline his demands. 

As Rev. Mr. Williams was employed in his study one 
afternoon, a domestic entered, and said that a person 
without desired an interview. The servant was told to 
wait upon him in, when the priest presented himself. 
He took a seat and requested Mr. Williams to lay aside 
his books and pay great attention to him. This solemn 
request caused him to look with greater attention on his 
visitor. He observed that his countenance was more 
repulsive than ever, and his body much agitated. 
Being encouraged to state his errand, he proceeded in 
the following manner: — 

1 Last month your God, Jehovah, and a small Fee- 
jeean god came for me to go to England with them. 
I went, and they took me to a large house which they 
said belonged to the father of Mr. Williams, of Navatu, 
(Somosomo.) It was guarded by a large dog, with white 
fore feet. A lady who was in the house saw me, and 
called to me to come in. I told her that I was afraid of 
the dog. She told the dog to go away, and I went in. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 283 

It was a good house, but I could not see any spars in 
the roof. I looked out of the windows, but could not 
see any bread-fruit or banana trees. There were great 
riches in the house, — calicoes, prints and cloths. The 
god said to me, ' Do you see these boxes?' I looked and 
saw three large boxes, — the lids were up, and they were 
full of riches to take to Feejee. 'These,' said Jehovah 
to me, c are the boxes for Mr. Williams, and you, only 
you must take great care of the fire. Fire burns. Our 
talk now is not after the manner of this world, so that 
you cannot now take any of this property. You must 
wait till the boxes get to Feejee, and then you must tell 
Mr. Williams that he must give you some of the property. 
Only mind lire, — be greatly afraid of it. You have kept 
Navatu safe a long time, and been their defence in war. 
Remember, it is your business to look after fire ; as that 
would burn all the houses with all the riches they con- 
tain. Look after the fire; for this is apt to destroy 
riches and scorch men.' 

The priest was told that as the boxes had not arrived, 
he could not expect to receive any thing from them. He 
then intimated that something was due for the an- 
nouncement of prospects so fair. He was told in reply 
that the truth of his statements was strongly suspected. 
He seemed to be pondering on something to say, when 
an old man came to say that the medicine which the 
priest had given to one of his patients seemed to be has- 
tening her end. 'That is the way of it,' muttered the 
great man, cursing the patient and the messenger. 

With so good an excuse Mr. W. opened the door, 
and as he showed him out, heartily regretted that there 
was no jail at hand, where the Feejeean protector and 
doctor might have been placed for a time, that sober re- 
flection in a cool situation might convince him that the 



284 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

course he had pursued was not unattended with incon- 
venience." 

6. After dinner we were informed that a " Solavit" 
was to be held by the natives of Vewa for Rev. Mr. 
Lawry. We soon heard the chant of the natives, and 
observed them approaching round the brow of the hill. 
As the procession appeared, and at intervals was hidden 
by the intervening foliage as they were approaching the 
mission house, their appearance was highly picturesque. 
All were dressed in their Sunday costume, and each 
could boast of some " papalagi" article of dress. Some 
wore a shirt, some a hat or cap, and some of the females 
wore a dress, while others wore native cloth around their 
persons with a "papalagi " cape. The queen was deco- 
rated with a scarlet blanket, and Elijah with a large, 
heavy pea-jacket, lined with red flannel, and buttoned 
close to his throat, — the thermometer standing at 95° in 
the shade. Our old grandmother, as she calls herself, 
was arrayed in an old muslin dress, which I had present- 
ed to the queen on my first arrival at the islands. The 
right side had been worn out, and it now figured wrong 
side out. None of the native gentlemen of Vewa wore 
pantaloons; therefore, it can be imagined how thorough- 
ly dressed they were with their shirts and jackets. The 
native "masi" was worn as usual. Some were array- 
ed in cloth, two breadths of which had been sewed to- 
gether; it was fastened at the waist, and falling to the 
heels, covered their persons decently. This is a favor- 
ite dress of the men who have become Christians. But 
to return. An old man headed the procession, bearing a 
club. He was followed by Elijah, (Namosimalua was 
away,) bearing a club, and his head decorated with 
scarlet parrot's feathers. The Tonga teacher followed 
him, bearing a large, beautiful branch of variegated fo- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 285 

liage. Then came the rest of the males of Vewa, all 
bearing clubs, spears, or some Feejeean article, which 
they deposited on the veranda, where Mr. Lawry, the 
missionaries with their families, and myself, were stand- 
ing. After the men had deposited their offerings, they 
formed themselves into a square on the green opposite 
the veranda, thus making room for the females to ap- 
proach with their gifts. First came the queen with a 
mat. Mary Wallis then came with an enormous club, 
and was the only female that appeared with so formidable 
a weapon. The rest of the females presented mats, na- 
tive cloth, arrow-root, tumeric, and various other ar- 
ticles. After all had been deposited, Elijah remarked 
that the gifts were the love of the Vewa people to Rev. 
Mr. Lawry, who had so kindly come to visit them. Mr. 
Lawry addressed them in his own happy manner, Mr. 
Hunt acting as interpreter. After this, all repaired to 
the chapel, where a kind of exhibition was held. The 
natives recited chapters from the Bible, repeated and 
chanted portions of the catechism, &c. 

The articles which were presented to Mr. Lawry are 
to be sold to defray the expenses of a house of public 
worship which is being erected at Auckland, New Zea- 
land. 

The Vewa people do not need their clubs and spears 
now, because the time has come when they shall learn 
war no more. It was exceedingly affecting to see these, 
so late relentless cannibals, thus peacefully giving away 
their implements of war, and laying them at the feet of 
those who had brought the gospel to them. 

The few men belonging to Vewa who still adhere to 
heathenism are now away, assisting Bau in its war. 



286 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The Ordeal — Our Departure for Manilla — Arrival — Christmas in Manilla- 
Execution — A Procession — Cemetery — Departure for America — St. Hel- 
ena — Arrival at Home. 

Oct. 10. This morning I heard some native chanting, 
and inquired of a servant the meaning of it. She said 
that the heathen men before mentioned had return- 
ed the night before from fighting, and the chant was 
one that is used when warriors have been successful in 
procuring dead bodies. It was called the song of 
Mbokola. Mrs. Hunt observed that they would scarce- 
ly dare to bring a dead body here; perhaps they had 
killed some, and were on their way to wash their clubs, 
- — a ceremony that is always performed after a battle, al- 
though it was not common for that song to be chanted 
except when they were dragging a dead body. 

I went to cc sara sara," taking two of the servants with 
me. On reaching the footpath, we observed ten men 
approaching; seven of them were of Vewa, and the 
others were strangers, who had accompanied them home. 
Their clubs were on their shoulders, and they continued 
their death song, which was a repetition of half a dozen 
words, ending in a sort of yell. When they saw us 
standing in the pathway, they called to us to go back, 
and waited till we had retreated. After they had turned 
off into another path, leading to an uninhabited part of 
the island, we followed, as I was desirous of witnessing 
the ceremonies in which they were about to engage. 
The demons, however, soon observed us, and said that 
we must return, as it was " t ambit " for us to follow. 

A few days since, Thakombau presented Mr. W. with 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 287 

a young cow. He dined yesterday on board the bark, 
and was offered some beef soup. He declined tasting it, 
saying that the cow was born at Bau, — he had seen her 
walking about and eating the grass of the island, and he 
loved her; therefore, he could not eat a portion of her 
body. 

11. A sad and yet a joyful day to me, — sad on ac- 
count of taking leave of my dear Vewa friends; and 
joyful that we were about to sail for Manilla on our 
return to our native land. We had received many 
kindnesses from the mission families at Vewa, and our 
hearts were filled with sadness at the thought of parting. 
The last words of Mr. Hunt were, "I fully believe that 
we shall see you again in Feejee." 

The John Wesley got under way at the same time, 
and we left the shores of Vewa together. The John 
Wesley was bound to Lakemba and Ono with the Rev. 
Mr. Calvert and Mr. Hazlewood and family. 

12. Wo arrived at Naikorotumba, where we found 
the Catharine anchored. Mr. W. and myself passed the 
evening on board. Our cook is sick, and one of the 
sailors, who has been under medical treatment at Vewa 
for two months past. 

15. We arrived at Vendoga, and shall remain a few 
days, as the iC beech de mer" house was left when we 
sailed from here last, and the chief wishes to fish a little 
longer. 

We learn that a canoe from Ba was cast away last 
week upon one of the Asua Islands; — the crew were 
eaten. They were not enemies, but such is their cus- 
tom. If the canoe had arrived in safety, the lives of the 
visitors would have been spared, and they would have 
welcomed them; but when a canoe is cast away, the na- 
tives say that it is sent them by their gods, and as they 



283 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

are fond of something to relish their vegetables once in 
awtule, the flesh does not come amiss. 

27. About two o'clock this morning Thomas Loyd 
died. He retained his reason to the last, and appeared 
willing to die. Mr. Smith, the mate, took the entire care 
of him during the last days of his sickness, except pre- 
paring his medicines and nourishment. He made his 
will, leaving his property to Mr. Smith. He wished me 
to accept the sum of fifty dollars, but I declined it in fa- 
vor of Mr. S. The chief of Vendoga was paid for a spot 
of land, and promised that the body should remain undis- 
turbed when buried. Prayers were read, and the body 
was buried on the land. His disease was dysentery, 
which is becoming very prevalent in these lands. 

A few days since the bark Pilot arrived here from Pa. 
The natives of that place stole the trade chest and a 
" beech de mer" pot from the shore, and fired some mus- 
kets, which were answered by two large guns from the 
Pilot, who then tripped her anchor and came to Vundu. 

29. When we first arrived at this place, Olamba told 
the captain that ten bags of " beech de mer " had been 
stolen from him during our absence from Vewa, but he 
said the thief would surely be found out, as they had 
buried leaves from a certain tree, and as the leaves de- 
cayed, the thief would pine away and die. The Feejee- 
ans have many trials by ordeal. Elijah told me that 
there was one ordeal in which he had formerly the great- 
est confidence. The last time he tried it, was about the 
" lotu" when Rev. Mr. Cross first came to Vewa. He 
put some water into the palm of his right hand, and 
slowly raised his arm to the perpendicular, saying, " If 
the ' lotu ' is true, let the water run in a straight line to 
my shoulder." It did so. At this he was much provok- 
ed, as he loved heathenism at that time. He then put 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 289 

water in his hand again, and said, " If the Feejeean gods 
are true, let the water run in a straight line, — if they are 
false, let the water run off in a crooked way. The water 
ran in all directions, and from that time he believed that 
Jehovah was the true God; but he did not wish to em- 
brace religion for many years after. 

30. We got under way for Nandy, intending to buy 
yams at that place. On arriving there, we were rejoined 
by the bark Pilot. 

There is an old man on board the Pilot, — a resident of 
Feejee, but not a native. The chief of Namula sold 
him a woman last week, who, not suiting the fancy of 
the purchaser, was returned to the chief, who showed no 
unwillingness to receive her again. He immediately 
had her killed, cooked and eaten. He observed to> 
Thomson, that she would make very good eating. Query.. 
Which is the worst of the two ? 

Nov. 4. To-day a chief came into the cabin, bring- 
ing with him a girl about ten years old. He said that 
he wished her to go to America, where she might learn 
to cook, read, and make dresses, and when we returned, 
we could bring her back. I told him I did not expect 
to return to Feejee again. "No matter," he replied. 
I have put a dress on to the child and concluded to take 
her unless she takes it into her head to jump overboard 
to-night and return to her home. Her dialect is so differ- 
ent from any language we have before heard, that we 
can neither understand nor be understood. 

5. This morning several canoes came off to the bark. 
No one noticed the girl that was brought here yesterday, 
nor did she speak to any one. We conclude, therefore, 
that she is some captive girl. She appears rather sad. 

The barks Zotoff and Pilot are now under sail, — the 
former for Manilla, and the latter to continue her business 
19 



290 LIFE INFEEJEE. 

in the " beech de mer " line at some other part of Fee- 
jee, having been rather unsuccessful on this coast. 
Farewell to Feejee! Your green hills are very beauti- 
ful, but your inhabitants are dark in every sense of the 
word. May the gospel increase and dissipate the great 
moral darkness that now reigns here! 

Our second mate was discharged at Bau to return to 
Solavu, where he owns a woman. Mr. Cloutman, late 
of the bark Catharine, now serves in that capacity. 

We have a young man on board who has been a resi- 
dent in the cannibal city for the year past. He states 
that dead bodies were brought to Bau as often as twice, 
and sometimes three times in a week, — that they were 
taken to a i( buri," where a chief, named Rotuimbau, 
divided them, after which they were cooked, and each 
portion sent to its destination. If they had more than 
could be devoured in Bau, portions were sent to other 
towns. The hearts and tongues are considered the 
choicest parts, and are claimed by the chiefs. The 
hands are usually given to the children. 

10. The morning dawned upon us any thing but 
pleasant. About nine, A. M., I was quietly seated on 
the sofa, giving my lap-dog some meat to eat, when, 
without any premonition of such an event, I was thrown 
from my seat to the opposite side of the cabin. I thought 
that the vessel had been thrown on its beam ends. I 
soon found my way to the deck, to see what was going on, 
and learn the cause of my being treated so roughly. As 
I reached the deck, the first thing that attracted my at- 
tention was the jib, which was torn into ribbons, and 
looked like a hundred pennants floating from the bow- 
sprit. Another sail, tired perhaps of its long service, 
had fled altogether, and was seen bounding over the an- 
gry ocean in detached parts, like a flock of frightened 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 291 

birds. A sudden squall had struck the bark, and all 
was confusion. The sailors were trying to furl the sails, 
which was no easy matter. The wind made them so ob- 
stinate that they seemed determined not to be made cap- 
tive, but to follow the example of those that had gone 
before. They twitched themselves from the hands of 
the men, then flapped and banged them, and cut all sorts 
of capers. The wind seemed to exert all its power, and 
soon caused the sea to foam and rage, — -split the main- 
sail, blew away the fore-top-gallantsail and the jib, — - 
tore in pieces the fore-topmast staysail and gaff-topsail, 
besides doing other damage. The scene was highly ex- 
citing, somewhat terrific, and truly sublime. The cap- 
tain was on the quarter deck, giving orders to the men, and 
speaking in no very feminine voice through the trumpet. 
Every part of the vessel seemed to feel itself called upon 
to make some audible complaint; therefore, it creaked, 
and groaned, and howled as if in great distress. The 
gale lasted about two hours. I stood, during that time, 
holding on by the door of the house. I had been sea- 
sick since we left Feejee nearly all the time, but during 
the gale the sickness had departed. 

18. We arrived at Pleasant Island. The weather 
has been favorable since the gale. Several of the white 
residents came off. They have increased in numbers 
since we visited the island before; about fifteen are now 
residing on the isle. The inhabitants are as rude and 
boisterous as ever. They brought off hats in great num- 
bers to sell, and some mats also. One of the natives 
thought it best to compliment me by saying, " Captain's 
woman very good." Another, looking at him very arch- 
ly, said, " Captain hear you talk that, — he kill you, — 
he shoot you." 



292 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

The man who deserted the Zotoff, when we were here 
last, is thriving well on fish, cocoa-nuts and sleep. 

There has heen no rain on the island for the last eigh- 
teen months. The pigs and fowls are literally starv- 
ing, as the cocoa-nuts are failing. They were brought 
on board in abundance for sale, the price having fallen, 
as the conscientious whites saw we were well supplied 
with the long-faced genfry. When we were here last, 
and they saw that we greatly needed pork, they pretend- 
ed that pigs were scarce, — that they had but three or 
four on the island, and sold us a sick one for eleven 
dollars cash. Now we could have bought them by the 
dozen for a trifle. 

A sailor, who had been cruising about in the Pacific 
for the last four years, desired to leave the island and 
go with us. He had been on board several whaling ves- 
sels, all of which he left the first opportunity. He 
brought all the riches which he had accumulated during 
his voyages and travels on board the bark with him; — 
they consisted of one shirt, much worn, and one pair of 
pantaloons. Mr. W. also took a sick Manilla man on 
board, who was anxious to return to his country. After 
increasing our company with the abovementioned per- 
sons, we again sailed for Manilla. 

23. This morning, as I was seated at an early hour 
on the quarter deck, I heard a feeble cry for help. 
On looking up, I perceived a sailor hanging by one 
hand and foot to the mizzen outhauler. The mate and 
tw r o men hastened to his rescue. His face had become 
purple, and he could have lived but a short time longer. 

Dec. 12. We arrived at Manilla. Mr. Osborne met 
us at the landing, and welcomed us in his own truly gen- 
tlemanly manner, back to the Eastern city. I did not 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 293 

regret leaving for a time the cabin of our bark for the 
spacious rooms in the house of Peel, Hubbell & Co. 

18. Sabbath. At a very early hour in the morning, 
we started for a drive into the country. Although the 
sun had not risen, the bazars were all in readiness for 
their customers, and the streets were filled with people; 
Chinamen, Malays and Europeans, all appearing to be 
engaged about the perishable things of earth, presenting 
a marked contrast to our own quiet streets on this holy 
day, where another gospel is acknowledged. As we 
passed the churches, the interior appeared to be crowd- 
ed, mostly with females. In passing from the towns to 
the country, we met many peasants on their way to the 
bazars with the produce of their lands. Some were seat- 
ed on buffaloes, that do not travel with railroad speed, 
and many were travelling on il Mr. FooVs horses," with 
baskets of fruits and vegetables on their heads. The 
baskets were very broad, and their contents were ar- 
ranged with much taste. Several were ornamented with 
pretty bunches of flowers. Their dress was coarse, but 
clean. 

On our return, we observed that the shops in the Es- 
colta were closed. The flags were raised from the ship- 
ping, and we were almost deafened by the ringing of bells. 

In the afternoon we rode again into the country. 
The Malays were assembled in great numbers. Cock- 
fighting and flying kites seemed to be their principal 
amusements. We observed many of their Spiritual Fa- 
thers assembled with them. A theatre in the evening 
concludes the amusements of the day. 

25. Last night, at twelve o'clock, high mass was cele- 
brated in the churches. I was told that the ceremony 
was well worth witnessing; but, being a Protestant, I 



294 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 



could not bring myself to bend the knee to the shrines of 
a Catholic, and declined attending the ceremony. 

Christmas is a very merry time in Manilla. The 
church bells are continually sending forth their merry 
peals, fairs are held, streets and houses are ornament- 
ed, churches are illuminated, and every one looks ani- 
mated and happy during the Christmas holidays. 

As we returned from our ride in the evening, we 
passed through several streets where booths were erect- 
ed, and ornamented in the most fanciful manner. Toys, 
cakes and confectionary were sold in them. Curious 
ornaments were suspended in the streets, while pigs, 
turkeys, hens, dogs, &c, made of reeds and fancy paper, 
and illuminated with a taper, were seen running about 
in every direction. They were placed on castors, or 
very small wheels, and cords were attached so that 
those who set them in motion could remain out of sight. 
In one street we saw a very beautiful ship under full sail. 
It was most tastefully ornamented ; its ropes were of 
silken cords; the sails were of white silk; the bows and 
stern were beautifully gilded, and the little flags waved 
most gracefully, as they were fanned by the gentle 
zephyrs of evening. 

In the forenoon some small presents were exchanged 
between the gentlemen of the house and myself, which 
occasioned some merriment. 

26. I received a call from a Malay woman, who carne 
to ask me for a Christmas present. As she wore more 
golden ornaments than I happened to posssess of the valu- 
able coin at the time, I dismissed her with the observa- 
tion, that being a stranger, I was wholly unacquainted 
with the customs of the country. 

January 3. Last night we accompanied Mr. Os- 
borne to his house in the country. It is about three 






LIFE IN FEEJEE. 295 

miles distant, and is situated on a small elevation which 
commands an extensive view of mountains, rivers and 
plains. Our sleeping apartment was delightfully cool, 
and for the first time for three years we slept without a 
musquito curtain. 

At dawn of day a servant opened the windows, that 
we might luxuriate in the " first sweet breath of morn." 
I soon rose and took a stroll round the house. I found 
the flowering almond, the tamarind, the coffee plant, the 
lemon tree, and various aromatic shrubs. I gathered 
some flowers, but was laughed at by Mr. Osborne, for 
trying, as he said, " To be romantic at my time of life;" 
but I shall always love flowers. 

About seven o'clock we were joined by Mr. Deland, 
and after taking a cup of chocolate, we returned to town. 

16. Two Malays w r ere to-day publicly executed for 
the crime of murder. One had killed a man about tw 7 enty 
years ago, and recently murdered his wife. The other 
had also murdered his wife. The execution took place 
in front of one of the prisons, and the bodies were left 
exposed through the day, to serve as a terror to evil 
doers. 

17. About eight o'clock in the evening we rode to a 
church, two miles distant, to witness a grand Catholic 
pageant. On our arrival in the immediate vicinity of 
the church, the crowd was so great that we were obliged 
to leave our carriage and make our way, as best we 
might, to the church. The houses and streets near 
the church were illuminated, pictures were shown, flags 
and banners of every hue and color were displayed, and 
nothing was left undone to render the scene attractive. 
In front of the church is a large open space enclosed by 
a wall. Within this enclosure were stationed large guns, 
which sent forth peal after peal, each seeming louder 



296 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

than the last, adding, of course, to the sublimity and so- 
lemnity of a religious festival. Fireworks were display- 
ed at the same place. 

We had just arrived at the door of the church when 
the procession appeared. One hundred little boys, about 
three or four years of age, first appeared. These were 
dressed in the native costume, and each carried a lighted 
wax candle in his hand. Then came a number of little 
children, decorated in the most fanciful manner, with 
golden suns and silver moons and stars shining all over 
them. Some had wings attached to their shoulders, and 
all wore crowns composed of materials so brilliant, that 
it made our eyes ache to look at them. They walked 
two by two, each bearing a lighted candle, as before. 
Their little swarthy faces formed a contrast to their 
decorations, and they looked like any thing but seraphs 
and angels, which they were intended to represent. 
The angels were followed by fifty young friars, wearing 
black gowns, and a short white wrought muslin frock 
over them. Then came a procession of young girls, who 
wore dresses of a dark gray silk, embroidered with sil- 
ver, and garlands of artificial flowers around their heads. 
Friars then followed, as before, — then little angels again, 
— then more friars, and then one young girl, whose dress 
was entirely covered with golden embroidery, with a 
garland of flowers around her head, surmounted by half 
a dozen white ostrich feathers. I think that she must 
have been the queen of the ceremony. She was followed 
by a kind of car borne on the shoulders of men. The 
floor of the car was covered with a gaily tinselled cloth, 
and there, under a glass globe about one foot in height, 
sat the patron saint, or rather a small decorated wax 
figure, to represent him. He was as quiet as wax 
figures usually are in such situations, and did not seem 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 297 

to need the heavy guard of soldiers that marched on each 
side of his saintship. A band of musicians followed, 
playing their very loudest, the guns sounded their heavi- 
est, and the rockets shone their brightest, as the diminu- 
tive saint entered the church. If this is not idolatry, — 
what is ? The musicians were followed by a long line of 
mothers, leading a little one by the hand and car- 
rying an infant. These carried no candles, as did the 
rest. 

We made our way, as soon as we could, into the 
church, and found it nearly dark, — the altar only being 
lighted. A priest stood before it, dressed in a white 
gown, embroidered with gold. He was crossing himself, 
and making courtesies when we entered, but soon disap- 
peared through a side door. The silver gilded girls 
were seated on steps below the altar. The church was 
large and dark, and we could not distinguish any more 
of those who had formed the procession. We had 
scarcely entered the church, when a choir of infant 
voices commenced singing, accompanied by soft and ap- 
propriate instrumental music. This was natural, simple 
and beautiful. There was nothing artificial in those in- 
fant voices, and I listened to them with delight. When 
their songs ended, the lights of the altar were extinguish- 
ed, and we were left to wend our way in the dark. Ah! 
I thought, I fear this signifies the end of your brilliant 
religion, — darkness. 

As we returned to our carriage, we saw many of the 
girls who had figured in the procession, threading their 
way quite unattended among the crowd. The little 
urchins, too, it appeared, had not ascended to the upper 
regions, notwithstanding their pinions. The heavy gild- 
ing about them might have prevented their rising. I 






298 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 



could not learn the meaning of what we had witness- 
ed, but I presume it was in honor of the patron saint 
of infants. 

18. As we happened to ride on the Calsada in a very 
beautiful carriage belonging to Peel, Hubbell & Co., we 
were honored with bows from the Governor and his lady, 
as we passed them and their suite. 

19. We rode through many of the streets of the city 
by daylight. We found them narrow, and not so clean 
as those of the towns in the suburbs. The buildings are 
all of stone, and look any thing but cheerful. In the 
evening, when the city is lighted, it looks pleasanter. 
The basements of many ofthe buildings are used for stores, 
and from some the grass was growing over the tops of 
the windows, entrances, and every niche where a par- 
ticle of soil could find a lodgment. 

We entered the plaza, in the centre of which stands 
a statue of Charles the Fourth, fronting the palace ofthe 
Governor. In front of the Governor's residence stands 
the city prison, which looks far more like a palace than 
that occupied by the Governor, — the latter being very 
plain in its appearance. The cathedral stands at the 
right of the palace, and its deep-toned bells are heard 
for many a mile. These buildings form three sides of 
the plaza or square ; on the fourth side stand some 
buildings remarkable for nothing in particular. There 
are several churches in the city, with monasteries 
attached to them. We passed a convent containing 
about five hundred nuns. Its walls were forty feet in 
height from the ground to the windows. It is said that 
there are about fourteen hundred nuns in Manilla. 

20. During our afternoon drive, we stopped on our 
way to visit a cemetery. We entered a broad gateway, 
and passed on to the church, where several people were 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 299 

assembled. As we approached, they left the church, 
and proceeded to an open grave with the corpse of an 
old woman. We followed to the grave to witness the in- 
terment. The body was borne on a rude bier of bam- 
boos, on the shoulders of men. The corpse was wrapped 
in a mat. The grave was like the graves of the canni- 
bals of Feejee, scarcely deep enough for the body to be 
placed in. The men took hold of the four corners of the 
mat, and laid it with the body in the grave, then retired 
to a little distance, while the women approached, kissed 
the shrivelled hands which were folded across the bosom 
beneath a cross, whined, but shed no tears. Then the 
men approached and took hold of one of the hands of 
the corpse, as if to take leave, when all departed. There 
were eight mourners, mostly young people, who seemed 
rather glad that their aged friend was dead. After the 
departure of the relatives, the body was covered with 
earth. 

The cemetery is of a semi-circular form, enclosed with 
walls. In these are holes where the dead are deposited. 
I presume these are the places where the bodies of the 
wealthy are placed. Each aperture is just large enough 
to contain one body, and when one is deposited, some 
lime is thrown in upon it, the hole is fastened up, and 
remains so till some other member of the family dies. 
The bones are then taken out and thrown into a Golgo- 
tha, which they call an " Osero" What a horrible way 
of disposing of their dead! It is not surprising that there 
are so many bones of the saints and martyrs; these 
places can ever furnish a supply. The cemetery is very 
small, not comprising one quarter of an acre of land. 
No grave could be dug without disturbing the dead, and 
the stench from the little spot of earth was almost intol- 
erable. 1 could not rest on my return till I had changed 



300 LIFE IN FEEJEE 






my clothing. We never passed this road on our way to 
San Sebastian, without meeting some funereal company. 
We often saw a man or boy, running through the street, 
bearing a tray on his head, on which is placed the corpse 
of an infant, decorated like a doll, with flowers, tinsel 
and all sorts of finery. 

21. We took a long ride in the country early in the 
morning. This is a luxury I can but seldom enjoy, as 
Mr. W. devotes his mornings from early dawn, to busi- 
ness. The birds sung some of their sweetest songs, the 
tamarinds and wild almonds showed us their best blos- 
soms, the early dew sparkled and trembled on the grass, 
and all conspired with our happy hearts to render the 
scenery enchanting. I observe a marked difference be- 
tween the foliage of this country and that of Feejee; the 
latter is broad, deep and full; the former is scant and 
narrow, and the trunks of the trees are not covered with 
creeping plants and vines, as in Feejee. I presume that 
the heat of this island is greater than that of the Feejeean 
isles. 

30. All being in readiness, we reembarked on board 
the Zotoff for our distant home. We were accompanied 
to the banca by Messrs. Osborne, Towne, Deland and 
Douglass, where we took leave of them. We feel much 
indebted to these gentlemen for many agreeable hours 
spent in Manilla. Capt. McKay of Boston and Mr. Di- 
mon of New York accompanied us to the vessel. As we 
were bound for the latter port, Mr. D. gave us a letter 
of introduction to his parents. 

31. After a good night's rest I awoke in the morning 
congratulating myself that I had thus far escaped my old 
enemy — sea-sickness. I attempted to rise, when the 
monster laid one huge paw on my head, and the other on 
my chest, declaring at the same time that I should not 



LIFE IN FEEJEE 301 

start. I felt highly indignant at such oppression, and 
determined to resist. I succeeded in dressing, and 
reached the wash stand, where stood three of the mon- 
ster's imps. Dizzy would not let me arrange my hair, 
but, giving it a terrible twitch, seemed to say it looked 
well enough; Push threw me against the door and sadly 
bruised my arm, and Trip tried her best to make my 
heels as light as my head. All this I bore with the pa- 
tience of a martyr, and staggered to the breakfast table, 
trying to look resigned, but I found that Bitter, who, 
being a child of sea-sickness, could make herself at home 
in any element, had placed herself in my tea; Nausea 
held the boiled eggs in her hands, and Hate-food kept the 
bread; therefore I gave up my breakfast, and turned to 
my dear old friend, the sofa, who is always ready to re- 
ceive me. It is true that it is not free from faults, being 
occasionally a little unsteady. It has thrown me from its 
protection sometimes, and we are obliged to confine our 
wayward friend with strong cords. 

Feb. 3. The clouds have gathered themselves to- 
gether, covered the face of the sun, and completely 
hidden his beams from our eyes for the last four days. 
Boreas has been rough but kind, and has blown us along 
at the rate of eight miles an hour. The bark, which has 
been for a long time past a resident in a tropical climate, 
and is not unaffected with its indolence, complains at this 
rapid travelling, and even weeps. The waves, arrayed 
in their white bonnets, elevated themselves to a great 
height, then came dancing up to the cabin windows, and 
I thought showed an inclination to make me a visit. I 
mentioned it to Mr. W., but he laughed, and said that it 
was only a way they had, and that they would not dare 
to enter the cabin. " They look proud and saucy enough 
to enter any vessel," I replied. I had scarcely done 



302 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

speaking, when a wave somewhat taller than the rest 
dashed into the cabin, seeming to say, " See what I dare 
to do!" The salt water bespattered the eyes of the cap- 
tain, loosened the scales, and the order was given to 
close the windows. 

4. We passed the island of Pulo Supata, and Ihree 
days after, the Amanabas Islands. These are inhabited 
by Malays, who, it is said, are very treacherous. An 
abundance of tropical fruits are to be obtained from them, 
and there is good anchorage for vessels. 

8. We spoke the ship Vancouver, from Canton, 
bound to Boston. I never before saw so much canvass 
spread from a vessel. There was beauty and majesty 
displayed as the noble ship passed us, seeming to say, in 
derision, Ci Do report us if you arrive first." 

10. The last two days we have been favored with tor- 
rents of rain, which renders the cabin exceedingly 
gloomy, being lighted by a lamp to make the darkness 
visible. The strong current and the wind having taken 
opposite sides of a question, seem to have become ene- 
mies; which caused the bark to labor so hard that Mr. 
W. thought it best to anchor, and we passed so delightful 
a night as to increase one's love for a sea life. The 
night was exceedingly dark, and our situation was some- 
what dangerous, as we were quite near the entrance of 
the Straits of Banka. 

11. The storm abated, and the vessel got under way 
at an early hour in the morning. We soon entered the 
Straits of Banka. On our right runs the east coast of 
Sumatra, which is not inhabited, and presents to the eye 
one vast jungle. The island of Banka is on our left. 
This land is more elevated. A chain of hills runs through 
the island, called St. Paul's. There is a Dutch settle- 
ment on it, called Mintou. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 303 

12. Mr. W. spoke the ship Santiago, of Boston, from 
Batavia, bound to Singapore. Several ships and brigs 
were in sight, and a large Dutch steamer passed us. 

14. We spoke the Samuel Russell, nine days from 
Canton, for New York. It passed us with the speed of 
a steamer; our vessel seemed as though laying at an- 
chor. Some of our sailors threw a rope over the side, 
that they might take our bark in tow. Hands were 
stretched out from the S. R. to receive it. We are now 
in sight of the high lands of Batavia. 

16. We are again in sight of Sumatra. The land is 
more elevated, and in some parts mountainous. The 
chain of mountains that run through the centre of this 
large island terminates here. 

In the evening we received some visitors from Angier, 
who brought for sale, pine-apples, cocoa-nuts, bananas, 
pumpions, corn, parrots and monkeys. All the eatables, 
and some monkeys were purchased. 

17. As we neared Tamarind Island, we could see 
several houses of thatch on the isle, and canoes on the 
shore. Our vessel lay resting on the still waters, or float- 
ing at a snail's pace, when some of the canoes approach- 
ed, and one of the strangers called out to the captain, 
" Come to anchor!" Several Malays came on board. 
They brought a turtle and some dead shells for sale; the 
latter they were constantly dipping in the water that it 
might not be seen that they were dead. The settlement 
on the island is of recent date. 

20. We are now out of sight of land, having crossed 
a part of the China Sea, passed through the Straits of 
Banka, crossed a part of the Java Sea, and passed 
through the Straits of Sunda, and are now once more on 
the Indian Ocean. The weather is intolerably hot, and 
every body is lazy except the two young monkeys, who 



304 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

are as full of mischief as monkeys need be. The eldest 
bears marks of old age, and appears very dignified. We 
think that he was a " judge " among* his tribe. Some- 
times he " makes up faces " at us, but he knows proba- 
bly that he is not now seated on a wool sack, or decora- 
ted with a wig. 

April 1. We are near the stormy Cape of Good 
Hope. The last week we have experienced continual 
squally weather, with some thunder and lightning, and 
the sea has been angry and rough. Yesterday, Judge 
Grey, the monkey, committed suicide by drowning. 
The change of life and habits from his own green woods 
to the bark was too much for him. He has never been 
happy, and has sought relief from a broken heart in a 
watery grave. 

4. The clouds gathered in one solid mass, and poured 
forth torrents of rain. The wind blew with great vio- 
lence, and there was every appearance of an approach- 
ing gale. As we were trying to drink our tea, a sea 
struck on the larboard quarter, and poured down the sky 
light into the cabin. We received no injury, however, 
but the vessel rolled and pitched continually. The gale 
continued to increase during the night, and the vessel 
lay to; no one had any rest or sleep. The water came 
pouring down the sky lights at intervals, and there was 
no dry spot to be found except in the berths. About 
eight o'clock, P. M., the quarter boat filled and broke. 
During the night we lost the lower swinging boom, and 
the fore-topmast stay-sail was split. On the fifth, the 
gale continued with great violence, but we received no 
other damage than the loss of the stern boat. When 
that went, it seemed as though the whole stern of the 
vessel was going with it. I fully expected to see the sea 
pouring in upon us. We passed a most uncomfortable 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 305 

day. At four, P. M., the gale abated a very little, and 
as we were directly in the track of vessels from the east, 
bound like ourselves round the Cape, Mr. W. deemed it 
best to bear away on our course. On the eighth day we 
were again favored with a pleasant sun, and the ocean 
looked as blue and as placid as though it had never been 
ruffled by a storm. All were loud in their praises of our 
vessel, which had so nobly withstood the gale. The day 
before it commenced, there were six vessels in sight. I 
trust they suffered no more injury than we did. Our 
gratitude for our preservation is due to Him who holds 
the winds and subdues the storms. 

22. We reached the Seamen's Tank, or St. Helena, 
and anchored in safety. Although I had read many de- 
scriptions of this far famed isle, which the Giver of all 
good seems to have placed here on purpose to refresh 
the weary mariner after his exposure to the storms of the 
Cape, I had formed no adequate idea of the place. 
What must have been the emotions of Napoleon as he 
approached his rocky prison — a prison that resembled in 
magnitude his own ambition! 

Our anchor was scarcely down, when the American 
Consul, Mr. J. Carroll, the physician, and two other gen- 
tlemen came on board. The Consul invited us to go on 
shore with him and remain at his residence during our 
stay at the place. 

We availed ourselves of his invitation, and were 
soon at the consulate, where we were welcomed by 
Mrs. Carroll. We dined at three o'clock, and at four, 
Mrs. C. and myself started for a walk. Jamestown 
is situated in a valley not more than four or five hundred 
yards in width, and I could scarcely help feeling as I 
passed through the street and looked at the mountains of 
20 



306 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

stone on each side, that they were about to fall and over- 
whelm all in one common ruin. They do not appear to be 
of solid granite, but seem to look loose and crumbling, as 
though any slight convulsion of the earth or even the el- 
ements might easily discompose them. I need not write 
more of this well known island, as much has been said 
about it, and I cannot hope to offer any thing new. We 
visited the garden and the store, where we found the use- 
ful, the agreeable and the entertaining. The houses are 
two stories high, and on the street look neat and pretty. 
I looked in vain for the costumes of different nations, of 
which I have read as being worn here. All the inhabi- 
tants or strangers that we met were dressed in the Euro- 
pean style. There are about four thousand inhabitants 
on the island; two-thirds of them are colored. 

After returning from our walk, tea was served, and we 
spent an agreeable evening at Mr. Wm. Carroll's, the 
Ex-Consul. 

23. Sabbath. A company of officers and soldiers ac- 
companied by the band, all in full uniform, passed, on 
their way to church, at eleven, A. M. The martial mu- 
sic, however it might accord with the appearance of the 
company which it escorted, did not seem to me in keep- 
ing with the holy day. The whole parade savored 
strongly of Catholicism. There are two Episcopal 
churches on the island — one in Jamestown, and the other 
in the country, near the Governor's residence. There is 
also a small Baptist society. We attended the services 
of the latter in the morning, in company with the elder 
Mr. Carroll, and the Episcopal in the evening. 

Mr. W. gave his men liberty to go on shore on the 
Sabbath. Half the number were to go in the forenoon, 
and return to the vessel at noon, when the other half 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 307 

were to leave. No money was allowed, as Mr. W. did 
not wish to have any drunken frolics on the Sabbath. 
Accordingly, the respectable part of the crew visited the 
island in the morning, and returned peaceably to the ves- 
sel at noon. The drunkards took their turn in the after- 
noon. Two of them, called Bob and Tom, soon came to 
the Consul's and asked Mr. W. for money, but their re- 
quest was denied. They came again and again; and 
the third time they used very improper language to their 
commander. We were greatly annoyed and mortified 
by their conduct. They had evidently procured rum 
somewhere. 

24. I arose at an early hour, and seated myself at 
my chamber window in front of the principal street, to 
see what I could of life in St. Helena. I saw some red- 
coats pass, then some donkeys from the country, bearing 
cabbages, turnips, peaches and pears, and then came 
several poor people who had been to buy their breakfast, 
consisting of a loaf of bread, large or small according 
to the number to be served. Some had hot coffee, and a 
portion of fish or flesh, while others carried a bottle, 
which may or may not have contained coffee, tea or milk. 
At length a long procession of liberated Africans passed, 
who were dressed in white frocks and blue trowsers. 
They were accompanied by a driver with a whip in his 
hand. I inquired what became of these liberated cap- 
tives, and was informed that they were let out in the col- 
onies for the term of five years, which they were required 
to serve to defray their expenses to government. I 
could not learn what became of them after this term 
expired. 

The Consul informed us at breakfast that eight vessels 
had arrived since Saturday morn, all of which had suf- 
fered from the late gale off the Cape. One, a Swiss 



308 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ship, had lost its commander overboard, and was greatly 
injured. He remarked that none had suffered so little 
injury as our bark. "Ah!" said I, "the Zotoff, 

1 With all its faults, I love it still.' " 

Contrary to our expectations, Mr. W. was detained 
till six o'clock in the evening. In the morning we called 
on Mrs. Leege, the mother of Mrs. Carroll. She seemed 
to possess a heart overflowing with love. As this lady 
lived a near neighbor to Napoleon before his removal to 
Longwood, I had many questions to ask concerning him, 
and the old lady seemed never to tire of talking about 
him. She said that he seldom missed a day without vis- 
iting their cottage. He was much attached to Mrs. Car- 
roll, who was then an infant, and while caressing and 
playing with the child he would seem almost cheerful. 

After tea we took leave of Mrs. C. and her niece, who 
had received and entertained us in so agreeable a man- 
ner that we left with regret. The ever attentive Consul, 
with Capt. Grinnell, who had dined at the consulate, ac- 
companied us to the vessel where we took leave of them. 

Our anchor was once more raised, and our sails spread 
for home. Bob had been exchanged for one of Capt. 
Grinnell's men, but Tom remained on board. After we 
had got well under way, Tom was ordered to haul tight 
the main-topmast studding sail tack. The impudence of 
Tom the day before had been received so mildly on shore 
by the captain, that he was now disposed to try it again. 
He had no sooner uttered his speech than Mr. W. 
caught him by his beard, which was of a most convenient 
length, and throwing him upon the deck, placed his knee 
upon his breast, and told him that he was not on shore 
now, but on board a vessel where impudence was never 
allowed — that he had not forgotten the insults of yester- 






LIFE IN FEEJEE, 309 

day, and that he would be required to look well to his 
conduct the rest of the passage. He then allowed the 
sailor to rise, and making him feel the end of a rope a 
few times, he sent hirn forward that he might have an 
opportunity for reflection before using any more impu- 
dence to one as large as himself. 

25. Tom has shaved off his long beard, which got 
somewhat twisted last night, and has asked the captain's 
pardon for his past conduct, saying that rum caused it. 
He also begged me to forgive his behaving so badly when 
there was a lady on board, and promised that there should 
be no future cause for complaint. He will probably keep 
his promise unless Neptune supplies him with rum, which 
I believe he is not in the habit of doin^. 

May 1. The weather is pleasant, and all hands are 
employed in scrubbing, painting, tarring, &c, to clean 
and improve the appearance of the bark. The spring 
cleaning at home is nothing compared to this home clean- 
ing in the spring. 

We talk now a great deal about home, and every one 
looks cheerful. My Feejeean girl is learning to sew, 
and appears quite happy. She hates the stewardess, 
however, who is a colored woman, whom we engaged in 
Manilla, and who breaks all our dishes, loses the spoons, 
knives, &c, and then lays it to the caravan, as she calls 
Phebe, meaning cannibal. 

4. About eleven, A. M., we observed a brig at some 
distance steering S. W., but its course was soon changed 
to W. N. W., and it seemed intending to make us a visit. 
Sometimes, no doubt, it is exceedingly pleasant to re- 
ceive a visit C£ while sailing o'er a waste of waters," but 
we were in a suspicious place, being somewhat near the 
" slavers' track;" moreover, the vessel bore a suspi- 
cious appearance, being long, low and black, with raking 



310 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

masts, and sailing with the speed of a steamer. Again, 
its conduct was suspicious. Why should it alter its 
course and hurry towards us in such a manner? — we had 
showed no signals of distress. Mr. W. 5 after watching 
its movements, said, " If it is a pirate, we stand no 
chance of running away from her." He then ordered 
the four large guns to be loaded, and the course of the 
bark to be altered, that we might run to meet our visitor, 
for such it seemed intending to be. The guns were load- 
ed, the ports triced up, the course altered, and the guns 
looked out saucily from the open ports, all arrayed on 
the side of the bark where they could be observed from 
the suspicious vessel, which had advanced most rapidly 
towards us, but showed no colors. As soon as all was 
in readiness, and they observed us standing towards 
them, their course was again altered, and they seemed 
as anxious to get clear of, as they had been to visit us. 
It is probable that if the vessel was a pirate, it took us 
for a man-of-war, as all the show possible was made of 
heads on our decks, and I believe it is not usual for 
merchant vessels to run towards a piratical vessel. The 
mate had filled one of his socks with powder to put in the 
biggest gun, and it was thought best to fire it after the 
retreating vessel, which was done, and the sock has 
never been heard from since. 

7. We are now sixty miles north of the Equator. 
The weather continues pleasant. A shark has followed 
us for several days past, but the remains of a porpoise 
were thrown overboard, and the shark has stopped to 
feast upon it. It is to be supposed that his apparent at- 
tention to us was not from love, but like others of his 
species on land, he followed the sailors for what could be 
obtained. Our days pass monotonously but hopefully. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 311 

Many changes probably await us on our return to our 
native land. 

Mr. W. employs a part of his time in teaching those 
who were lads when we left Salem, the science of navi- 
gation. They have made good progress. George, es- 
pecially, bids fair to become a thorough and scientific 
navigator. 

10. Joy! joy! the highlands of Neversink are in 
sight. A New York pilot is on board, and we soon ex- 
pect to leave our prison home for terra firma once more. 

12. Last evening our anchor was lowered in the har- 
bor of New York. I knew not that we had a friend in 
the city to greet us, but it was pleasant to feel that our 
voyage was ended, that our perils in strange lands and 
on the deep were over, and that after an absence of three 
years and eleven months, we had safely reached the hap- 
py shores of America. 

This morning, Capt. H., a friend who had removed 
from Charlestown with his family during our absence, 
came to welcome us to our native land, and I was soon 
an inmate of his very comfortable dwelling, surrounded 
by his family, and receiving their warm congratulations. 

June 13. The lad, Nat, informed the mate, that, as 
he was walking through one of the streets of the city, he 
met Tom, the sailor, who, it will be remembered, be- 
haved himself so unbecomingly at St. Helena; moreover, 
Tom invited him to walk a little way with him. He com- 
plied with the request, and soon found himself in the of- 
fice of a lawyer, who required him to make a deposition 
respecting the cruel conduct of Capt. Wallis to Tom 
when off St. Helena. He said that he told the lawyer 
he knew nothing about it, and left the office immediately. 
In the afternoon the three Salem lads and one sailor left 
the city for their homes. 



312 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

14. A handsome bill was presented this morning to 
Mr. W. It had been contracted by the Salem boys for 
pies and cakes. I did not learn whether confectionary 
was included; perhaps a separate bill may be forthcom- 
ing for that luxury. 

Tom, the sailor, came to Mr. W., saying that he had 
not been sufficiently sober to visit him before, and showed 
a document in the hand-writing of the lad, Nat. Mr. W. 
examined the paper, and found that it contained an ex- 
aggerated account of his conduct towards Tom on the 
night we left St. Helena. After perusing the document, 
Mr. W. returned it to its owner, and quietly asked what 
he intended to do with it. "Nothing, sir," replied the 
sailor. " I never thought that you punished me as much 
as I deserved. Nat and George were at me all the 
way home about prosecuting you when we arrived here. 
They said that New York was just the place for it, and 
George said he should persuade his father to prosecute 
the captain for punishing him when he insulted the Fee- 
jeean chief; finally, Nat drew up the said document, 
and finding me on shore half drunk, persuaded me to go 
to a lawyer, and show him the paper." Mr. W. could 
not believe the whole of this statement, but called the 
men aft, and, on questioning them, they testified that it 
was true, adding that the two boys above named had 
omitted no opportunity of urging Tom to " prosecute the 
captain." 

23. We arrived at Salem. The meetings, greetings 
and sayings, on that, to us, happy occasion, I will leave 
for the reader to imagine. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 313 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Departure for a Second Voyage to Feejee — Arrival at New Zealand — 
Death of Two Missionaries — Departure from New Zealand — Arrival at 
Feejee — Trials of the Missionaries — The Gale. 

Oct. 12, 1848. After remaining at home for the space 
of four months, I was induced to trust myself again on 
the mighty waters, and accompany my husband in his 
search for the riches of this world. As I left my readers 
to imagine our joyous meeting with friends from whom 
we had been so long absent, I will leave them to imagine 
the parting scene. It is not my purpose to attempt a 
description of either. 

We embarked on board the bark Zotoff, belonging to 
S. Chamberlain & Co., of Salem, bound to New Zealand, 
Feejee, &c. Mr. J. F. Lovett serves as first, and Mr. 
C. Fornis as second officer. J. Derby, who sailed and 
performed the last voyage as a boy, now re-shipped as a 
sailor. Mr. W. finding it impossible to furnish his boys 
with pies, cakes, and milk for coffee and tea, has care- 
fully avoided engaging any more of the Salem pets, but 
has two boys supplied by the city missionary. It was 
not his purpose to be troubled with any, but on re- 
ceiving a promise that he would break no mothers' 
hearts, he consented to receive them. One is only 
twelve years of age, — a mere child. Phebe, the Feejee- 
an girl, is to serve as stewardess. She was highly de- 
lighted with all she saw in America. The cook and two 
of the sailors are Salem men; the rest of the crew are 
foreigners. 

Feb. 19. We arrived at New Zealand. Nothing unusual 
occurred during our voyage. The lives and health of all 



314 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

have been spared, we have crossed the ocean in safety, 
and our anchor is once more cast near the land. 

The town at the Bay of Islands was mostly destroyed 
in 1844 by the natives of this part of the island; but as we 
came in sight of it, I observed that several new buildings 
had been erected, which gave signs that there were civ- 
ilized people in the place. We also observed that the 
little Episcopal chapel, and the parsonage belonging to 
it, had been left standing by the ruthless despoiler; also 
the church and buildings belonging to the Roman 
Catholics. 

Our anchor was not down when we were visited by 
Mr. Bateman, the harbor-master, who cordially invited 
us to make his house our home during our stay. The 
residence of Mr. B. and lady is situated at about half the 
distance to the top of Flag-Staff Hill, and looks very 
pretty and romantic, but we found the way truly toil- 
some. We were met at the door by Mr. and Mrs. B., 
and introduced to several ladies and gentlemen. Dur- 
ing the evening we were informed by Mr. B. that our 
esteemed friend, Rev. J. Hunt, died in Feejee sometime 
during the last October, and that his family had arrived 
in Auckland, on their return to England. 

During our residence in Feejee, I had been in the 
family of Mr. Hunt for nearly a year, and had an oppor- 
tunity of becoming well acquainted with the many excel- 
lencies of his character, and had become much attached 
to him and his truly estimable wife. The news of his 
death filled our hearts with sadness. 

21. Capt. Wright called upon us. He invited Mr. 
W. and myself to spend the morrow with his family at 
his residence, a little above the Wapoa. I spent most 
of the day in writing letters to friends at home. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 315 

22. Mr. W. and myself started in the boat, to pay 
our promised visit to Mr. Wright and family. We en- 
joyed a delightful sail up the river on which the little 
village of Wapoa is situated. There is a small military 
force stationed at Wapoa. On our arrival at the resi- 
dence of Capt. W., we were warmly received by him, 
and his lady and daughter. We spent a most delightful 
day, were regaled with pears, apples and grapes, and 
were presented with apples to take to the vessel. Capt. 
Wright lost a large amount of property during the rebel- 
lion of the natives in 1844. 

23. I visited the spot once occupied as the residence 
of Capt. Clayton, in company with Mrs. B. The pretty 
cot had been destroyed, our friends had departed, and 
nothing was left of former days but two centennial plants 
and a rose geranium. I plucked a slip from the latter, in- 
tending to plant it in a strange soil. Capt. C. and fam- 
ily saved nothing but the clothes they wore at the time 
the natives destroyed the place. We walked over the 
grounds that were once so prettily decorated and owned 
by Mr. Caflin. There was now no little basket of 
strawberries, nor splendid boquet of flowers to be offer- 
ed; a little, very little hedge of hawthorn was all that 
was left. We passed on and soon arrived at the parson- 
age. The garden fence was gone, — the beautiful plants 
and shrubs were all destroyed, — the pretty lattice, that 
once supported the honeysuckle and rose, — all, — all were 
gone. The little building, once occupied by the happy 
and devoted minister of the gospel, as a study, was now a 
place of shelter for the goats. We entered the piazza; 
the wind sounded mournfully through the house, the 
shutters to the windows were rattling, and every thing 
spoke of desolation. Here, there seemed to be some- 
thing left that affected the mind even more sadly than 



316 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

the places we had previously visited. Where are those 
happy countenances that once met us at the now closed 
doors? One has been called from her earthly joys and 
sorrows to join the saints on high, while her companion 
is, it is feared, a confirmed lunatic. Such are life's 
changes! 

27. We took leave of our very kind friends, Mr. and 
Mrs. Bateman, and reembarked on board our floating, 
but hitherto safe home. We were kindly furnish- 
ed by them with various plants and shrubs from their 
garden to take with us to Feejee. We shall ever re- 
member their kindness. Should they wander to a strange 
land, may they ever meet with the kindness they have so 
liberally bestowed upon us. 

March 6. Anchored at Motureke after a passage of 
ten days from New Zealand. Mr. Whippy, being on his 
way to Bau, left his canoe and came on board. He in- 
formed us that the Salem brig, Tim Pickering, was 
wrecked at Levuka during a severe gale, which occurred 
on the 5th of April, 1848. A schooner belonging to 
some of the white residents of Feejee was lost at the 
same time. Rev. Dr. Lyth was a passenger, but left 
the schooner and went on board the Tim Pickering at 
the commencement of the gale, and thus his life was 
providentially saved, as were the lives of all those who 
were on board the brig. The schooner was manned by 
three, two of whom were drowned; the third was a son 
of Mr. Whippy. He jumped into the sea before the 
schooner went to pieces, where he sustained himself by 
swimming from nine o'clock in the morning till four 
o'clock the next morning, when he struck his hand 
against some solid substance, which proved to be the 
little boat that had belonged to the schooner. He kept 
hold of it for some time, but it was full of water, and, as 



LIFE IN FEEJEE- 317 

he had no means of freeing it, he let it go, finding it 
easier to sustain himself without it. He had now been 
one day and night in the sea, and the storm still contin- 
ued in all its violence; but " Hope on, hope ever" 
seemed to be his motto; fear never entered his heart, 
nor did his physical strength seem to abate; he merely 
kept himself afloat, and the tide drifted him where it 
listed. About daylight the waves cast him on a reef, 
where he thought he could rest till the tide rose. He 
could perceive no land, and his only prospect was to 
commit himself again to the watery element, as the com- 
ing tide would soon compel him to leave the reef. He 
had not been in this situation long, however, before he 
perceived a dark object approaching the spot where he 
was resting, which proved to be the little boat before 
mentioned. On, on it came, and seemed to say, " I will 
not forsake thee." David freed it from water with his 
hands; there was one thole-pin left, which exactly fitted 
for a plug to the hole in the bottom of the little ark. 
David embarked, and without sail, oar, or paddle, once 
more committed himself to the raging elements, where 
he was drifted and driven about for two days and two 
nights, when the storm abated, and he found himself 
near land. 

Here other perils awaited him, and now fear entered 
his mind. He knew that it was an invariable custom 
for all Feejeeans to murder the shipwrecked, and he had 
no reason to believe that he would be spared. He land- 
ed, however, and hid himself in the bush, where he was 
soon found by a native. David told him who he was, 
and the native desired him to remain where he was till 
he returned to the town and informed the chief. "No," 
said David, "you intend to bring other men, to kill and 
eat me here without the knowledge of the chief. I shall 



318 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

go with you to the town; if I am killed, it shall be by 
the orders of the chief, and then my father will know 
what to do about it." 

On their arrival at the town, a scene of confusion en- 
sued. Some were for killing and eating the poor lad at 
once, others were in favor of deferring the butchery for 
a time, and the exhausted boy was near being torn in 
pieces by the contending parties, and he began to feel 
that it would have been better to have perished in the 
waters than to fall into the hands of these merciless sav- 
ages, who were thus thirsting for his emaciated body. 
He had not, however, been saved from the storm and 
flood to serve as food for cannibals; here, too, was a 
way of deliverance appointed by Him who had saved the 
life of the lad thus far. A chief of another tribe was 
present during the confusion, and I presume he must 
have been a " vasu" to the place, as he claimed David 
for his own, and thus put an end to the contention. 

After his liberation, the chief inquired his name, &c. 
David told him that he was the son of the Mata ge 
Mbau at Solavu. tc Then I possess a prize," said the 
chief; "you shall be restored to your father." The 
chief soon took him home. The father received him as 
one restored from death. Great was the rejoicing, — the 
fatted hog was killed, the deliverer and his followers 
were feasted, and on their departure were loaded with 
valuable presents by the grateful parent. David had 
drifted to the distance of about seventy miles from the 
place where the unfortunate schooner was anchored, and 
about ten or twelve from Solavu, where his father re- 
sided. 

The Levuka people first took possession of the prop- 
erty belonging to the Tim Pickering, but it was eventu- 
ally claimed and given up to Bau. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 319 

We learn that the mission of Feejee has been variously 
afflicted since we left. Mrs. Hazlewood, wife of Rev. 
D. Hazlewood, died the last week, of dysentery, leaving 
an infant two weeks old. Mr. H. is stationed at Nandy. 
Two little girls are also deprived of a mother's affection 
and care by this afflicting dispensation. 

Another event has occurred which it gives me more 
pain to record than the death of the righteous. Mr. 
Jaggar, who has labored so indefatigably and with so 
much apparent sincerity for the space often years in the 
ministry of the gospel, has committed a most grievous sin, 
has been deposed from the ministry, and has gone to 
New Zealand with his family. 

7. We arrived off Bau and Vewa, but were obli- 
ged to remain several hours on board after the vessel 
was anchored, before the tide would serve for our land- 
ing at Vewa, and it was nearly dark before we reached 
its shores. Dr. Lyth, with his family, met us on the 
shore. The tide was not yet full, and we were obliged 
to step from the boat on to a canoe in order to land. My 
mind was entirely occupied with the sad changes that 
had taken place since we parted from the kind friends 
who had now assembled to greet us on our return. Mr. 
W. was leading me across the canoe, and cautioning 
me to be careful of my steps, but I did not hear or at. 
tend to the caution, my feet slipped and I fell, receiving 
a violent blow on my chest from a cross bar of the canoe. 
When I arose from my muddy bed, I presume I could 
not have been taken for a Naiad. I was conducted to 
the house in my elegant plight, and made as comfortable 
as possible; but I continued to suffer from the effects of 
the severe blow I had received. 

Rev. Mr. Calvert has removed to Vewa with his fam- 
ily, and occupies the late residence of Mr. Hunt. Mr. 



320 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

C. has gone to Nandy to bring the two little motherless 
girls of Mr. Hazlewood to Vewa. Mrs. C, whom we 
had not seen before, soon came in. 

We learned that Rev. Mr. Watsford and family had 
removed to Lakemba, and that they had suffered much 
during the past year. Their little girl had died from the 
effect of ill-treatment received from a Feejeean girl that 
had been employed by Mrs. W. to assist her in taking 
care of the child. As the girl always appeared kind, 
the parents had no suspicion that any thing was wrong, 
although their babe became sickly, and would often 
scream as if in great distress. The parents brought it 
to Vewa, that it might have the benefit of Dr. Lyth's 
advice; but no one seemed to understand the disease. 
The child lingered for some months, when an eruption 
appeared in its side, and in two weeks after the exposure 
and fright during a severe gale of February last, the 
little sufferer died. The girl, who had assisted in its 
care, confessed that she had often, when displeased about 
any thing, squeezed the dear babe in her arms with all 
her strength, thus injuring it internally, and no doubt 
causing its death. 

After spending some time in company with our friends, 
we returned to the bark. Mr. and Mrs. Lyth and Mrs. 
Calvert kindly invited me to reside with them while we 
remained in Feejee. I had decided to accompany my 
husband to the Ba coast, but accepted their invitation 
for the time that we should remain in the vicinity. 

8. This morning, with a sad heart I revisited my once 
happy home. No alteration was to be seen in the inte- 
rior of the house, and the furniture was the same as 
when I left; but those who had said, "My dear Mrs. 
W., I think that we shall meet again in this life," were 
not there. The little girl who had stretched out her 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 321 

arms and said, " Me kith aunty Wathy," was nowhere 
to be seen. One had entered his glorious rest, — the 
others had departed, — all seemed dead to me. 

The following account of the last days of our lamented 
friend, is from the copy of a letter written by Mr. 
Calvert to Rev. Dr. Hannah of England, who was the 
theological tutor of Mr. Hunt. The letter is long, 
giving a summary of the birth, conversion, education, 
ministry, &c, of Mr. Hunt, which I shall not copy entire. 

" On the 6th of September I arrived at Vewa, by the 
Wesley, from Lakemba. I found brother Hunt able to 
sit on the sofa, and walk over the room with a stick; but 
very much shattered by his frequent attacks, and con- 
tinued disease. 

On the 7th I had a long conversation with him. He 
spoke of his very severe attack of illness. After the re- 
moval of his paroxysm, on the 9th of August, he entered 
into a full consideration of his state. He said, — * I had 
most humbling views of my own nothingness and useless- 
ness which distressed me, until it came to my mind pow- 
erfully, as if the Lord had spoken it to me, c Are not ye 
my work in the Lord? If I be not an apostle unto others, 
yet doubtless I am to you; for the seal of mine apostle- 
ship are ye in the Lord.' c After that the Lord would 
not allow me to reproach myself, but manifested himself 
to me in a surprising manner, and I seemed overwhelmed 
and filled with the love of God. My will was completely 
lost in God's will.' At the same time, he said, f I feel 
my work is done.' 

On the 17th, I read, at brother Hunt's request, the 9tr* 
and 10th of Hebrews. After prayer he said, ' I never 
had such views and hold of the Saviour as I have in this 
illness. I feel him to be a perfect Saviour.' 

On the 26th he had been confined to his bed a week, 
21 



322 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

and was very much reduced. I read the 17th of John 
and prayed. He was much engaged in devotion during 
prayer. Towards the close, he began to weep. After 
we rose from our knees, his weeping continued and in- 
creased, until at length he burst out crying aloud, 
c Lord, bless Feejee! save Feejee! Thou knowest my 
soul has loved Feejee. My heart has travailed in pain 
for Feejee.' Mrs. Hunt and myself were gratified with 
the outburstings of what always filled his heart; but we 
knew his weakness would not admit of such great exer- 
tion, therefore, we tried to prevent him. I said, 'The 
Lord knows you love Feejee. We know, the Feejeean 
Christians know, and heathens of Feejee know it too. 
You labored hard for Feejee when you were strong. 
Now you are so weak you must be silent. God will save 
Feejee. He is saving Feejee.' For a short time he 
wept aloud; but again, unable to suppress his emotions, 
he wept and called aloud, with great vehemency, grasping 
me firmly with one hand, and raising the other, exclaimed, 
' Oh, let me pray once more for Feejee ! Lord, for Christ's 
sake, bless Feejee ! save Feejee ! save thy servants ! 
save the heathen ! save thy people in Feejee !' His full 
heart was overpowered, and he would gladly have ago- 
nized beyond his strength, as he had labored, in behalf 
of Feejee; but we insisted upon his giving up and being- 
easy. 

On the 28th he said, ' For two days I can think only 
of Paul's language,—' I am in a strait betwixt two.' If 
needful for my family and the church, I shall be raised 
up again. I have no choice. I am resigned to the will 
of God. I am more, — I love the will of God. He rules.' 
I said, ' If we ruled, we should keep you; but He knows 
best.' 'Yes,' was his reply. 'He is my ruler, my 
protector. He will soon make it up in many ways.' 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 323 

At daylight, on the 4th of October, we found brother 
Hunt exceedingly weak. We assembled round his bed. 
He said, c How strange! I cannot realize that I am dy- 
ing; and yet you all look as if I were. If this be dying, 
praise the Lord. 5 At his request brother Lyth read the 
14th of John. He engaged with his wonted earnest- 
ness in prayer. He desired again and again to be left 
alone. His mind, which retained all its vigor to the last, 
was fully engaged, his eyes uplifted, and his lips moving. 
I said, ' The Lord is faithful and keeps you.' c Yes,' he 
replied. About one o'clock he said, ( It is a solemn 
thing to die, — very solemn.' I said, ( Mr. Wesley, in 
dying, clung to Jesus, and you do.' ' Yes,' he replied, 
with solemnity. ' I cling to Jesus, and am right. I have 
nothing else to look to. He is all I have to trust in. If 
I look from Him, I am in a vortex, — have doubts and 
condemnation. I have full faith in Him. I have peace 
and pardon through Him. I have no disturbance at all.' 
His whole soul was engaged with the Lord. He cried 
aloud, ' Oh, Lord, my Saviour! Jesus!' More than usual 
earnestness marked his countenance. Shortly after this 
wrestling with the God of all grace and consolation, his 
complacent smile bespoke gratitude and joy. Then he 
appeared to be engaged in meditation. Again he spoke: 
— 'I want strength to praise Him abundantly! — I am 
very happy. 5 

About eight o'clock in the morning, after being inform- 
ed of the approach of death, he said to Mrs. Hunt, ' Oh, 
for one more baptism!' She then asked him if he had re- 
ceived a fresh manifestation. His reply was, ' Yes; 
hallelujah!' and added, C I do not depend on this (sig- 
nificantly shaking his head). I bless the Lord. I trust 
in Jesus.' Soon after he said, c Now He is my joy. I 
thought I should have entered heaven singing, ' Jesus 



324 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

and salvation. 5 Now I shall go singing, 'Jesus, salva- 
tion and glory, — eternal glory.' He then settled down, 
saying many times, 'Hallelujah!' 

He delivered messages to the chiefs, the people, his 
brethren and sisters; prayed for his children, desiring 
them to obey and imitate their mother; affectionately 
commended his much beloved partner to the guidance of 
Divine Providence ; prayed for God's blessing on a 
faithful servant, who had been with him ever since his 
arrival in Feejee; and then desired me to pray. 

About three o'clock, P. M., he grasped me and turn- 
edon his side, and after breathing with difficulty for about 
twenty minutes, his spirit departed to eternal blessedness. 

The natives Hocked to see the remains of their beloved 
minister. A neat coffin was made, and covered with 
black cloth, on which was inscribed: — 

'Rev. John Hunt 

Slept in Jesus 

October 4, 1848. 

Aged 36 years.' 

Early on the morning of the 5th, the principal chief of 
Bau arrived, with many attendants. He was impatient 
to see the remains; and was evidently much affected 
with brother Hunt's message, and the account we gave 
of his end." 

It seems mysterious to us that so good and faithful a 
servant in the vineyard of the Lord should be called thus 
early from his labors. In these he was truly abundant, 
as I was a witness while an inmate of his happy family. 
He seldom retired to rest before twelve o'clock at night, 
and always rose at early dawn. Every department of 
the mission received a portion of his care. With some 
assistance, he translated the New Testament into the 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 325 

Feejeean language, translated hymns, prepared cate- 
chisms, instructed a class of young men in theology, and 
prepared them for native teachers. He attended to the 
erection of two commodious buildings; and the sick re- 
ceived his constant care till Dr. Lyth's removal to Vewa. 
The amount of labor which he accomplished was truly 
astonishing; but his heart was in his work, and he never 
seemed to grow weary or tire. Every one loved him, 
for he was the friend of all. Mr. Calvert states with 
truth, "That he gained much influence everywhere, 
and with almost every body. In his intercourse with 
chiefs, heathen and Christian people, captains of ships, 
foreigners, his brethren, — every one, — he was most hap- 
py; and was successful in doing good to an immense ex- 
tent. The effects of his life, voyaging, prayers, preach- 
ing, conversation, &c, are on a broad basis, and will 
doubtless tell much as long as Feejee exists." 

9. Vewa has changed much in its appearance during 
the past year. Many of the former houses were blown 
down during the severe hurricanes of February and 
April, and others have been erected in their stead. The 
large house belonging to the chief, and the little Qi buri " 
of his son, were destroyed, and smaller houses have, in 
part, replaced them. The chapel was also destroyed. 

10. Though feeling very unwell, and still suffering 
from the effects of the blow which I received on landing, 
I attended service in the chapel. The rude pulpit is 
covered with black, and every object reminds me of him 
who has gone to his rest. 

After the conclusion of the services, I visited the grave 
of our lamented friend. He lies interred just back of 
the chapel. A neat fence surrounds the grave, and 
white sea shells cover it. I felt, as I gazed upon the 



326 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

narrow bed, that I sorrowed more on account of his loss 
than I rejoiced in his happiness. 

Dr. Lyth conducted all the religious services of the 
day, — both English and native. There was no one to 
preach on board the ZotofT. 

16. It has rained at Vewa some part of every day 
for the last six months. I can scarcely get an opportu- 
nity to go out of doors, as the mud does not get dried 
from one shower to another. This morning Mr. W. 
sent for me to come to the bark, if I was able, as Tha- 
kombau and lady wished to see me. The man who 
brought the message had dressed himself in a neat suit 
of white, to wait upon me to the vessel. He succeeded 
in handing me safely over the stile, but on going over 
himself, he slipped, fell into the yellow mud, and deco- 
rated his clean suit finely. He looked mortified, but 
there was no help for it; the tide was fast receding, and 
he must go with me as he was. 

I found our royal visitors in a most gracious humor. 
They, with their numerous attendants, passed the day on 
board. The Bauans have rebuilt Rewa, and are ready 
to crown Phillips king of the place, but he has not the 
courage to reside there, on account of his brother, Ga- 
renggeo, who still resides in the mountains. Thakom- 
bau has commenced building a stone house for himself, 
but as there is only one mason at work, it will not go up 
as speedily as buildings of that sort are erected in 
America. 

18. Navinde, with his lady, visited us to-day. This 
visiting of the chiefs, accompanied by their principal 
wives, is quite a new thing in Feejee. It has never 
been known till quite lately, and, as yet, has only been 
done by Thakombau and Navinde. I have had visitors 
from Bau nearly every day, and some presents. My 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 327 

namesake, too, and the wife of Elijah are constant visit- 
ors. Their words are invariably after the word of salu- 
tation. " Sa mate Mr. Hunt. Mrs. Hunt sa lako>" 
" Mr. Hunt is dead. Mrs. Hunt is gone." 

19. There were no religious services, as Dr. Lyth is 
ill with the dysentery, attended with considerable fever. 
Two of their children are also sick. Their residence 
can scarcely be healthy in the rainy season, as its lo- 
cality is low and damp. Mrs. Calvert has invited the 
family to spend some time at the Vale Kau, thinking that 
the change may prove beneficial to them all. 

We have laid out a pretty garden spot in front of 
the piazza at the Vale Kau, but I sadly fear that the 
plants brought from New Zealand will rot in the ground 
before they take root, on account of the quantity of rain 
that falls daily. 

23, Namosimalua is absent from Vewa the most of 
the time, his wife having left him to reside with her 
friends in Bau. She endured much from his tyranni- 
cal disposition before leaving him. Soon after she left, 
Elijah persuaded her to return ; but instead of being 
received with kindness by her husband, lje met her with 
the most severe reproofs and accusations till she became 
nearly maddened, fled from the house, and leaped from 
the precipice near which the house stands. She was 
taken up senseless, and carried back to Bau. She has 
not yet recovered from the effects of her fall. She has 
been much blamed for leaving her tyrant; but I think 
she is more to be pitied than blamed. Obliged to be the 
wife of one that she could never love, she has endured 
his brutality for years, till endurance could scarcely 
be called a virtue. For ten years she has adorned the 
religion that she has professed; but in a moment of 
temptation she has brought a wound upon the cause by 



328 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

her attempt at self-destruction. I have not seen her, as 
she does not come to Vewa, and I have not been able to 
go to Bau. 

24. Elijah has returned from Ba, where he has been 
since our arrival, and arrangements are making for him 
to accompany us on that coast, to assist, by his influ- 
ence with the chiefs, in collecting our cargo. 

Of the deep piety and devotion of Elijah, all speak in 
the highest terms. Even the white residents, who for- 
merly spoke of his religion as being " all a humbug," 
are now compelled to acknowledge that he, who was a 
most relentless cannibal, is now " a bright and shining 
light." 

26. Mrs. Calvert has given me some account of the 
sufferings of Mr. and Mrs. Hazlewood at Ono during the 
gale of April last. It appears that the profusion of mus- 
quitoes at Ono renders the place at times almost insup- 
portable. No rest is to be had, day or night. Mr. H. 
had built a little house on a very small uninhabited 
island, on a reef situated at some distance from Ono, or 
far enough from the large island to discourage the mus- 
quitoes from undertaking a journey to the place. Here 
the family were in the habit of retiring, to rest a little 
from their tormentors. 

At the commencement of the gale, Mr. Hazlewood 
went to Ono to preach, and the winds became so furious 
that he could not return to his family. He could only 
look towards the little island which held his dearest 
earthly treasures, with fear that the billows were about 
to cover it, and pray to God to save them. Besides 
Mrs. H. and the children, there were two or three na- 
tive women and one man only on the reef. About mid- 
night their house was blown down, and they fled to a 
little place that had been built to cook in; from this. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 329 

however, they were soon driven by the waves of the sea. 
They then fled to a part of the island that was a little 
more elevated, the natives made a shelter of leaves, and 
they remained in this situation for two days, till the 
storm abated, and the anxious and distressed husband 
rejoined his suffering family. Mr. H. could perceive 
from the large island that the house was gone, and for 
two days he had feared that all his dear ones had been 
swept away by the flood; his meeting with them again, 
was like their being restored from the grave. Since 
then, one of their children has died. At the last Dis- 
trict Meeting the family removed to Nandy, where Mrs. 
H. died. 

27. Dr. Lyth and family are now visitors at the Vale 
Kau. He is very feeble, and we are anxious about 
him. The children are somewhat better. The faithful 
man who served the family of Mr. Hunt many years, 
often calls to see me. He says, " You loved Mr. and 
Mrs. Hunt greatly, and so did I, and when I look upon 
you, I feel that I must see them too." 

The British man-of-war, Calypso, paid a short visit to 
this group a few months' since. They burned the town 
on Vetelavu belonging to the chief who murdered the 
two white men while we were on our late voyage to Fee- 
jee. Being short of provisions, they did not attend to 
the other cases. 

April 1. Mr. Calvert arrived last night from Nandy 
with two of the little Hazlewoods. There are now ten 
children at the Vale Kau, all under eight years of age. 
Mr. and Mrs. Calvert are desirous that Dr. Lyth and 
family should reside here permanently, while they re- 
move to the Vale Vatu. 



330 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Departure for Ba — Feejeean Names — Dillon's Rock — Prospect of a Battle 
— Visit of a Missionary — A Feejeean Plot — The " Soro." 

April 4. All things being in readiness for our depart- 
ure to Ba, 1 took leave of our kind entertainers with 
regret, and embarked once more on board the Zotoff. I 
had been quite unwell during my stay at Vewa, and 
Mrs. C. had shown me all the kind attention of a sister, 
and the more I became acquainted with her the more 
admirable her character appeared. 

On arriving at the vessel, I found several additions to 
our former company. Elijah and a dozen of his people 
were to accompany us to Ba. There were some curious 
names among them, such as Ngone Tha (a bad child); 
Nga (a duck); Kalava (a rat); Bona Boaka (a pig's 
tail), &c. Thakombau has presented a large ox to be 
given to Touaga, that he may be of " a good mind " to- 
wards Mr. Wallis, and procure him a great many fish. 
The animal stood gazing about him, apparently aston- 
ished at the novelty of his situation. 

7. Ba. We arrived here this afternoon, after stop- 
ping on our way at Buladagaloa and Tabua, to make 
arrangements for the erection of " beech de mer I s 
houses. 

As we passed Raverave Elijah told us a legend con- 
cerning it, but says he does not like to tell such stories 
now, although once he believed them all to be true. 

The natives of Feejee always have a story on hand. 
Every town, place and tribe, has its legendary accounts 
of its origin, and concerning all its affairs. There is 
scarcely a rock, island, mountain or river that we pass, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 331 

which has not its tale. They must be a most imaginative 
people. On moonlight nights the natives often sit relat- 
ing and listening to stories. 

24. Buladagaloa. In company with Elijah and the 
pilot, I visited the town at this place. We sailed up a 
narrow river, walled on each side by the beautiful man- 
groves. After landing, we crossed several dykes, and 
at length arrived at a high fence, and apparently a strong 
one, being composed of large stones, mud and logs, sur- 
mounted by a lighter one of reeds. This fortification is 
called a "ba-ni valu," or a fence of war. We entered 
an opening, and found a small town of about thirty houses 
romantically situated in a mud puddle. I stooped and 
looked in at the doors of a few of them, but had no desire 
to enter. They were without mats, and looked cheerless 
enough. We passed out of the town, and took a long 
walk towards the mountains. Several of the inhabitants 
followed us, and appeared more curious to see Phebe, 
who accompanied us, and who they were told had been 
to America, than they were to see the white woman. 
Just back of the town are several acres of fine table land, 
dry, and a much better locality for a town than the site 
now occupied; but fear of their enemies deters the na- 
tives from building upon it. 

The people belonging here have for many years been 
carrying on a warfare with many of the towns of Ba and 
other places. 

26. We crossed from Yetelavu and anchored off Dil- 
lon's rock, which is quite a prominent object, considera- 
bly elevated, of a dark color, and flat at the top. An 
event occurred at this place in the year 1813, which I 
shall relate as Dillon has given it in his voyages. 

In order that the story may be properly understood, it 
is necessary to state that Dillon came to Feejee in the 



332 LIFE IN FEEJEE.] 

ship Hunter, Capt. Robson, for the purpose of collecting 
sandal wood at Bua and the vicinity. Capt. R. had been 
here several times before for the same purpose, when he 
had assisted the natives in fighting their enemies, and in 
procuring bodies to satisfy their cannibal appetites. 

On his arrival here in 1813, his old friends told him 
that the enemies he had assisted in conquering had re- 
volted, and it would be difficult for them to cut sandal 
wood, unless he would first assist them to reconquer their 
foes, after which they would load his vessel in a short 
time. Capt. R. again assisted them, and they destroyed 
a great many people, towns and plantations, but the 
chiefs and natives did not come up to their agreement. 
Several months passed, and the vessel remained without 
its cargo. The chiefs remained away, and the disap- 
pointed captain was provoked at the trick played upon 
him. He vowed vengeance against his old allies, and 
took fourteen of their canoes at the commencement. 
Soon after, Capt. R. wished to have a cutter belonging 
to the Hunter taken on shore for some repairs. Before 
doing* this, however, he wished to possess himself of the 
rest of the Wailea canoes, that he might repair the cut- 
ter in safety. We now proceed to give an account of 
the expedition and battle in Dillon's own words: — 

" On the morning of the 6th of September, the Euro- 
peans belonging to the ship, and also the Europeans 
from Ban were all armed with muskets, and placed under 
the command of Mr. Norman, the first officer. We 
landed at a place called the Black Rock, and were soon 
joined by the Bau chiefs and a hundred of their men. 
The boats and canoes then put off into deep water, which 
precaution was used to prevent their getting aground by 
the tide ebbing. On landing, the Europeans began to 
disperse into straggling parties of two, three and four in 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 333 

a group. I begged of Mr. Norman to cause them to 
keep close together in case of a sudden attack from the 
islanders; but no attention was paid to my remonstrance. 
We proceeded by a narrow path over a small level plain 
without interruption, until we arrived at the foot of a hill, 
which we ascended, and soon gained the level or table 
land on its top. There a few natives showed themselves, 
and tried to irritate us by shouts and gestures. 

Mr. Norman turned to the right, along a narrow path, 
which led to a thicket where were some native houses. 
I followed him with seven other Europeans, the two Bau 
chiefs and one of their men. Here a few natives tried 
to dispute our passage; they were fired at, and one was 
shot dead; the rest retreated. Mr. Norman then di- 
rected the chief's house with some others to be set on 
fire. The order was immediately obeyed, and all were 
in flames in a few seconds. A few minutes after, we 
heard dreadful yells and shoutings of the savages pro- 
ceeding from the road by which we had ascended to the 
table land. The Bau chiefs understood from the yells 
that some of their men as well as Europeans were killed 
by the Wailea people, who were concealed in ambush 
until they got us on the table land, where they at- 
tacked our straggling parties, who, having discharged 
their muskets, were killed before they had time to reload. 
Others, I afterwards understood, on seeing themselves 
nearly surrounded by the savages, threw down their mus- 
kets and ran towards the boat; two of them escaped. In 
Mr. Norman's party there were ten musket men, with 
the two Bau chiefs, and one of their followers. We de- 
termined to keep close together, and fight our way to the 
boats. 

We immediately got out of the thicket on to the table 
land, where there were not more than three of the island- 



334 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ers, who shouted and called out to us that several of our 
men were killed, as well as Bau men, and that we should 
immediately share a similar fate. On reaching the brink 
of the path by which we were to descend to the plain, we 
found Terence Dun lying dead with his brains beaten out 
by a native club, and the whole plain between us and the 
boats covered with thousands of infuriated savages, all 
armed. 

Before descending to the plain, a young man named 
John Graham separated from us and ran into a thicket 
of bushes on the left hand side of the road, where he was 
quickly pursued by the three savages above mentioned, 
who despatched him. The remainder of us proceeded 
down the precipice. On getting to the bottom, the sav- 
ages prepared to receive us. They stood in thousands 
on each side of the path, brandishing their weapons, with 
their faces and bodies besmeared with the blood of our 
slaughtered companions. At this moment, a native who 
came down the precipice after us, threw a spear at Mr. 
Norman, which entered his back and passed out of his 
breast. He ran a few yards and fell down apparently 
dead. I fired at this native, and reloaded my musket as 
soon as possible, when, on turning round, I found my 
companions had all run by different routes. Taking ad- 
vantage of the absence of the natives, who had all quitted 
the path and pursued our flying men, I dashed along with 
all possible speed, but had not proceeded more than a 
few yards when I came on to the dead body of William 
Parker, who was prostrated across the path with his mus- 
ket by him. I took it up and retreated. 

About this time the natives observed me and gave 
chase. One of them came up so close to me that I was 
obliged to throw the musket away, and a pistol also 
which I had in my belt. In a moment after this, I 






LIFE IN FEEJEE. 335 

reached the foot of a steep rock that stood on the plain. 
Finding it impossible to get to the boat through the 
crowds of natives that intercepted the pathway, I called 
out to my companions (some of whom were on my right), 
' Take the hill! take the hill! 5 We then got to the top 
of it, where I joined the following persons. Charles 
Savage, a man named Luis, Martin Bushart, Thomas 
Dafny and William Wilson. The three former resided 
at Bau, and joined us at this island ; the two lat- 
ter belonged to the ship. Mic Macabe, Joseph Atkinson, 
and the two Bau chiefs were killed; these men had joined 
us here. Dafny fired his musket on the plain, and then 
broke it off at the end in defending himself. He was 
wounded in several parts of the body, and had four ar- 
rows stuck in his back; the point of a spear had pierced 
his shoulder, having entered from behind, and came out 
in the fore part, under the collar bone. 

It fortunately happened that the rock to which we had 
escaped was so steep that few persons could ascend it at 
a time, and it was too much elevated for the natives to 
annoy us much with their spears or slings. They, how- 
ever, shot several arrows at us, which were impeded by 
a strong gale of wind that blew them off their intended 
course. Our chief officer having fallen, I now, as next 
in rank, took command of the party, and stationed them 
in the best way I could to defend our post. I did not 
allow more than one or two muskets to be fired at a time, 
and kept the wounded man loading for us. Several of 
the natives ascended the hill to within a few yards of us, 
and were shot by us in self-defence as fast as they ap- 
proached. After some of them had been killed in this 
manner, the rest kept off. Having but little ammunition 
left, we were as sparing of it as possible; besides this, 
we did not wish to irritate the natives more than they 



336 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

already were, by firing, except when driven to it by ne- 
cessity. From our elevated situation we had a clear 
view of the landing place; the boats at anchor, the two 
Bau canoes and the ship were waiting our return. We 
had but little prospect of ever rejoining them, though I 
had some hopes that Capt. Robson would make an effort 
to rescue us by arming six Indian soldiers that were on 
board, two or three Europeans, and the Bau people in 
the canoes. These hopes soon vanished when I saw the 
Bau canoes set sail, and steer towards their own island 
without passing alongside the ship. 

The plain which surrounded the rock was covered with 
armed savages assembled from ali parts of the coast, 
amounting to several thousands, who had been in am- 
bush, waiting for us to land. This assemblage now ex- 
hibited a scene revolting to human nature. Fires were 
prepared, and ovens heated for the reception of the 
bodies of our ill-fated companions, who, as well as the 
Bau chiefs and their slaughtered men, were brought to 
the fires in the following manner. Two of the Wailea 
people placed a stick or limb of a tree on their shoulders, 
over which were thrown the bodies of their victims, with 
their legs hanging down on one side and their heads on 
the other. They were thus carried in triumph to the 
ovens prepared to receive them. Here they were placed 
in a sitting posture, while the savages sung and danced 
with joy over their prizes, and fired several musket balls 
through each of the corpses, all the muskets of the slain 
having fallen into their hands. No sooner was this cer- 
emony over than the priests began to cut up and dissect 
these unfortunate men in our presence. The feet were 
cut off at the ancles, the legs from the knees, the thighs 
at the hip joints, the hands at the wrists, the arms at the 
elbows, the shoulders at the sockets, and lastly, the head 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 337 

and neck were separated from the body. Each of these 
divisions of the human frame formed one joint, which 
was carefully wrapped in green plantain leaves, and 
placed in the ovens to be baked; meanwhile, we were 
closely guarded on all sides but one, which fronted the 
thick mangrove forest on the banks of the river. Savage 
proposed to Martin Bushart to run for that, and endeavor? 
to escape to the water's side and swim for the ship. This 
I opposed, threatening to shoot the first man dead' who 
left the hill, and my threat for the present had the desired 
effect. By this time the fury of the savages was some- 
what abated, and they began to listen attentively to ourr 
harangues and offers of reconciliation. I reminded them 
that on the day the fourteen canoes were seized and 
taken, eight of their men had been made prisoners on 
board the ship, where they were now confined. One oft 
them was Bete, brother of the chief of Wailea. I repre- 
sented to the multitude that if we were killed, the eight 
prisoners would be put to death on board; but that if T, 
and my five companions, were not sacrificed, we would! 
cause the eight prisoners to be released immediately. 
The head priest, who is regarded as a deity by these- 
savages, immediately asked if I was speaking truth, and if 
his brother and the other seven men were alive. I as- 
sured him they were, and that I would send a man on 
board to the captain to order them to be released, if he 
would convey the man in safety to the boat from among 
the multitude; this the priest promised to do immediately,. 
As Thomas Dafny was wounded, and had no arms to de- 
fend himself, I prevailed on him to venture down the 
rock with the priest, and thence to the boat. He was to 
inform Capt. Robson of our horrid situation, which may 
be more easily imagined than described. I also directed 
him to tell the captain that it was my particular request 
22 



338 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

he should release one-half of the prisoners, and show 
them a large chest of iron mongery, whales' teeth, &.c, 
which he might promise to deliver to the remaining four 
prisoners with their liberty, the moment we returned to 
the ship. This man proceeded as directed, and I did not 
lose sight of him from the time he left us until he got on 
the ship's deck. A cessation of arms took place in the 
meantime, which might have continued unbroken had it 
not been for the imprudence of Charles Savage, who put 
a greater temptation in the way of the natives than they 
could withstand. 

During this interval several native chiefs ascended the 
hill, and came within a few paces of us with protestations 
of friendship, and proffered us security if we would go 
down among them. To these promises I would not ac- 
cede, nor allow my men to do so, till Charles Savage, 
who had resided on the islands for more than five years 
and spoke the native dialect fluently, begged me to allow 
him to go down among the natives with the chiefs to 
whom we were speaking, as he had no doubt their prom- 
ises would be kept, and that if I allowed him to go he 
would certainly procure a peace, and enable us all to 
return in safety to the ship. Overcome by his importu- 
nities I gave my consent, but reminded him that I did not 
wish him to do so, and that he must leave his musket and 
ammunition with me. This he did, and proceeded about 
two hundred yards from the foot of the rock to the place 
where Vunisa, the chief of Wailea was seated, surround- 
ed by chiefs who were happy to receive him, their secret 
determination being to kill and eat him. They conversed 
with him, however, for some time, and then called out to 
me in the native dialect, c Come down, Peter, we will 
not hurt you; you see we do not hurt Charley.' I re- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 339 

plied that I would not go down until the prisoners ar- 
rived. 

During this discussion, Luis, the Chinaman, stole 
down the opposite side of the hill unknown to me, with 
his arms, for the purpose of placing himself under the 
protection of a chief with whom he was intimately ac- 
quainted, and to whom he had rendered important ser- 
vices in former wars. The islanders finding they could 
not prevail on me to place myself in their power, set up 
a scream that rent the air. At that moment Charles 
Savage was seized by the legs, and held in that state by 
six men, with his head placed in a well of fresh water 
until he was suffocated; while at the same time a savage 
got behind the Chinaman, and knocked the upper part 
of his skull to pieces with his huge club. These wretched 
men were scarcely lifeless, when they were cut up and 
put into the ovens already prepared for the purpose. 

We, the three defenders of the rock, were then fu- 
riously attacked on all sides by the cannibals, whom our 
muskets, however, kept in great dread, though the chiefs 
stimulated their men to ascend and bring us down, prom- 
ising to confer the greatest honors on the man who should 
kill me, and frequently inquired of their people if they 
were afraid of three white men when they had killed sev- 
eral that day. Thus encouraged, they pressed close 
upon us. Having four muskets between three of us, two 
always remained loaded, for Wilson being a bad marks- 
man, we kept him loading the muskets, while Martin 
Bushart and I kept firing them off. Bushart had been a 
rifleman in his own country, and was an excellent marks- 
man. He shot twenty-seven of the cannibals with 
twenty-eight discharges, only missing once. I also killed 
and wounded a few of them in self-defence. Finding 



340 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

they could not conquer us without a great sacrifice on 
their part, they kept off and vowed vengeance. 

The human bodies being now prepared, were with- 
drawn from the ovens and distributed among the different 
tribes, who devoured them greedily. They frequently 
invited me to come down and be killed before it was dark, 
that they might not have the trouble of dissecting and 
baking me in the night. I was bespoken joint by joint 
by the different chiefs, who exultingly brandished their 
weapons in the air, and boasted the number of white men 
each had killed during the day. 

In reply to all this, I informed them that if I was killed, 
their countrymen confined on board our vessel would be 
killed also; but that if I was saved, they would be saved. 
The ruthless savages replied, c Capt. Robson may kill 
and eat our countrymen if he chooses, we will kill and 
eat you. When it is dark you cannot see to shoot us, 
and you have no more powder.' 

My companions and myself, seeing no hope of mercy 
on earth, turned our eyes towards heaven, and implored 
the Almighty Ruler of all things to have compassion on 
our wretched souls. We had not the most distant hope 
of escaping the savages, and expected to be devoured as 
our companions had been. The only thing which pre- 
vented us from surrendering quietly, was the dread of 
being taken alive and put to the torture. 

These people sometimes, but not very often, torture 
their prisoners in the following manner: — They skin the 
soles of the feet, and then torment their victims with fire- 
brands, so as to make them jump about in that wretched 
state. At other times they cut off the prisoner's eyelids, 
and turn his face to the sun, at which he is obliged to 
look with his bare eyes. 

Having no more than sixteen or seventeen cartridges 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 341 

left, we determined as soon as it was dark to place the 
muzzles of our muskets to our hearts with the ends on 
the ground, and discharge them into our breasts, thus to 
avoid the danger of falling alive into the hands of these 
cannibal monsters. 

At this moment the boat put off from the ship, and soon 
got close to the landing place, where we counted the 
eight prisoners landing from her. I could not imagine 
how the captain could have acted in so strange a manner, 
as the only hope presented of our lives being spared, was 
by allowing a part of the prisoners to land, who would of 
course intercede with their friends on shore to save us, 
that we might in return protect their countrymen when 
we returned to the ship; but this precaution not being 
attended to, all hope seemed to have fled, and the only 
hope of relief left, was the dreadful determination of 
destroying our own lives in the manner already men- 
tioned. 

Shortly after the eight prisoners landed, they were 
conveyed unarmed up the rock to me, preceded by the 
priest, who informed me that Capt. Robson had released 
the eight men, and sent a chest of cutlery, iron-mongery, 
&c, on shore for the chiefs, with orders that we were to 
deliver our muskets to them, and that he would see us in 
safety to the boat. 

I replied that as long as I lived I would not part with 
my musket, which was my own property, as I was cer- 
tain they would slaughter me and my companions as they 
had Charles Savage and Luis. 

The priest then turned to Martin Bushart, and ha- 
rangued him on the policy of our complying. At this 
moment the thought entered my head of making the 
priest my prisoner, and either to destroy him or to regain 
my liberty. I tied Charles Savage's musket with my 



342 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

neck-handkerchief to the belt of my cartridge-box, and 
presenting my own musket to the priest's head, told him 
that I would shoot him dead if he attempted to run away, 
or if any of his companions tried to molest me or my com- 
panions. I then directed him to proceed before me to 
the boat, threatening him with instant death in case of 
non-compliance. The priest proceeded as directed, and 
as we passed through the multitude, he exhorted them to 
sit down, and upon no account to molest Peter or his 
countrymen, because if they attempted to hurt us he 
would be shot, and they, of course, must be aware that 
they would consequently incur the wrath of the gods in 
the clouds, who would be angry at the disobedience of 
the divine orders, and cause the sea to rise and swallow 
up the island with all its inhabitants. 

The multitude treated their priest's injunctions with 
profound respect, and sat down on the grass. The priest 
proceeded towards the boat, with the muzzles of Bush- 
art's and Wilson's muskets at each of his ears, while the 
muzzle of mine was placed between his shoulders. Find- 
ing night approaching, and anxious to prolong life, I had 
recourse to this dreadful expedient, being aware of the 
influence and sway which the priests in all barbarous 
nations have over their votaries. 

On getting to the boats the priest made a sudden stop. 
I ordered him to proceed, but he refused in the most pos- 
itive manner, declaring that he would go no farther, and 
that I might shoot him if I chose. I threatened to do so, 
and asked him why he would not go to the water's edge. 
He replied, ' You want to take me on board alive, and 
put me to the torture.' There being no time to spare, I 
told him to stand still, and turned my face to him with 
my musket presented, threatening to shoot him if he at- 
tempted to move until I got into the boat. We then 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 343 

walked backwards to the water's side, and up to our 
breasts in water, where we joined the boaty and had no 
sooner got into it than the islanders came down and sa- 
luted us with a shower of arrows and stones from slings. 

Being once more out of danger, we returned thanks to 
Divine Providence for our escape, and proceeded towards 
the ship. 

I expostulated with Capt. Robson on his extraordinary 
conduct in causing so many human beings to be unneces- 
sarily sacrificed. He offered some absurd apologies, 
and inquired if we were all that had escaped. 1 told him 
we were, but that if the natives could have made a proper 
use of all the muskets that fell into their hands on that 
occasion, we must all have been killed." 

Thus ends the story of Peter Dillon, who must have 
been taught by the disastrous events above recorded, 
that it was not so fine sport after all to go on shore and 
shoot savages as though they were so many monkeys, to 
burn their dwellings and destroy their plantations. 

The father of Mary Wallis, the Lasakau widow, was 
one of the Bau chiefs who was killed on that occasion. 

April 27. Anchored at Tavea. The Glide, a tender 
belonging to the bark, was sent to this part of Feejee 
some weeks since, to get houses under way, and urge the 
natives on with the fishing against the arrival of the bark. 
On her return, we met at Buladagaloa, and were in- 
formed that nothing could be done here at present, as 
several of the Tavea people had been murdered at Yan- 
ganga, in consequence of which, war would commence 
immediately. 

Namosimalua being at Naikaratumba with his large 
canoe and many of his people, hastened hither that he 
might join with Elijah in inducing the natives to give up 
hostilities, at least for the present, and go on with their 



344 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

fishing, it being deemed of more importance to collect 
luxuries for Jbe Chinese, than to feed themselves with 
human flesh. 

The Tavea people have hitherto been a very bold, 
saucy set of natives, provoking their neighbors by their 
hostile proceedings. Of late, however, Natemba has re- 
nounced heathenism, and seems to have become a better, 
though not a good man. His enemies, however, are not 
at peace with him, as they have recently shown by the 
massacre of ten of the warriors of Tavea. The Tavea 
people have been engaged for some time past in fishing 
turtle for Bau, which they had placed in a pen on the 
island of Yaoganga. Eleven men who were sent to bring 
the turtle to Tavea, were all murdered but one, who es- 
caped to tell the tale. Retova and a chief of the island 
of Naloa are among the most powerful of the enemies of 
Tavea. They have exerted an influence along the coast 
and among the adjacent islands in this vicinity, so that 
now the little island is completely hemmed in on all sides, 
and its inhabitants imprisoned. We hope, however, that 
the arrival of the Waqa Vanua, the Langi Lavu, and the 
influential characters which they have brought, will 
change the present aspect of affairs for the better. 

28. Four canoes have arrived at Naloa from Mathu- 
ata, for the purpose of joining that people against Tavea. 
It is said that they contain a great number of warriors, 
and intend to attack Tavea to-morrow. Natemba is 
here, Namosirnalua spent the night at Naloa, and Elijah 
has gone to prevail upon Dumbui, the chief, to come 
here and meet Natemba, and see if they can come to an 
amicable settlement. 

Elijah, on arriving at Naloa this morning, assembled 
the chiefs and warriors of the place, with those who had 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 345 

come from Mathuata, and thus addressed them: "Why 
did you kill the people of Tavea?" 

" Because many years ago they killed our people." 

" Are you now satisfied ?" 

"Yes.*" 

"Do you wish for war ?" 

"It is just as you say. If you say war, it shall be 
war; and if you say peace, it shall be peace." 

" I have come in the ' ivaqa vanua,' or the big ship," 
said Elijah, "to assist Capt. Wallis in getting " beech de 
mer." I wish you to leave fighting and go a fishing. 
The Tavea people wish to fish, but they are afraid. 
You have killed ten of their strong men. The "waqa 
vanua " is sent here from Bau with yanggona from its 
chiefs for you to get " beech de mer " for it. If you kill 
or trouble any who are employed in its service, I shall 
send word to Bau, and they will come, as they did some- 
time ago, and make you all run for your lives. My 
speech is ended." 

They replied that his speech was good, and it should 
be as he said. Elijah then requested Dumbui to accom- 
pany him to the bark and meet Natemba; but he prob- 
ably remembered sundry acts of his own, committed dur- 
ing the latter part of our last voyage, which did not add 
to his dignity as a chief, and refused to accompany Eli- 
jah, saying that Capt. W. would keep him and he dared 
not to come. Elijah asked him if he had not known 
Capt. W. for many years. He replied that he had. 
He then asked him if he had ever known him to confine 
a Feejeean on board any vessel that he had commanded. 
He replied that he had not. "Then come with me," 
said Elijah, " he will not do so now. Do you not know 
that Mrs. Wallis is on board, and the vessel is a '■ waqa ni 
lotuV " Dumbui entered the boat with fear, not daring to 



346 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

refuse to visit the vessel, yet fearing the punishment due 
to his former transgressions. While on his passage to 
the bark, however, a capital idea occurred to his mind, 
and inspired him with confidence. He suddenly cried 
out, " Au sa lotu." "I am a Christian." He seemed 
to feel that if he acknowledged himself a Christian, he 
was safe. 

Namosimalu, with his principal chiefs and officers, Na- 
temba and several counsellors of Dumbui arrived, and 
a great meeting was held on our decks and in the house 
of the bark. The meeting was opened by Namosimalua, 
who stated that its object was to consummate a peace 
between the contending parties present. The parties 
talked long and sometimes loud when relating their 
grievances, but they finally concluded to bury all their 
animosities and unite in their labors for the bark. None 
of the Mathuata warriors were present, feeling no doubt 
disappointed at the change of affairs. They came to 
fight, that they might procure dead men for their ovens 
and appetites, and do not like to return to their homes as 
they came. 

We have been informed that while Retova was fitting 
the canoes for the present expedition, he sent whales' 
teeth to Natemba, with complimentary speeches and pro- 
testations of love and friendship, which Natemba, at the 
time all unsuspicious, received, and returned others in 
their stead. 

After the breaking up of the meeting on deck, Namo- 
simalua, Elijah, Natemba, Dumbui, and two of the at- 
tendants of the latter, came into the cabin, where all 
knelt while Elijah offered a most fervent and appropriate 
prayer. He prayed that this peace might be permanent, 
— that the parties might not only be Christian in name, 
but that they might love God and serve him truly, — that 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 347 

they might give up war, killing and eating each other, 
till their lands, and live no longer like pigs, but be like 
men, &c. 

Dumbui and Natemba knelt by the side of each other, 
and I am not certain that Dumbui was not desiring all 
the time to eat a piece of his neighbor. Natemba ap- 
pears much altered, and sincerely to desire instruction 
in the gospel. 

29. Sabbath. Elijah preached at Tavea in the morn- 
ing, and at Naloa in the afternoon. He found Dumbui 
at Naloa so deeply engaged in some native game of 
amusement, that it was long before he could leave to at- 
tend to the preaching. 

May 13. Since my last date nothing of importance 
has occurred. The natives of Naloa and Tavea have 
erected " beech de mer" houses, and been engaged in 
collecting the precious article. They seem to regard 
Elijah as their prophet, priest and king. Dumbui is as 
much a Christian at heart as he ever was; but having 
renounced heathenism, he cannot well avoid listening to 
religious instruction. Elijah says perhaps God will soft- 
en his heart by and by. 

16. Retova has honored us with a visit, when the 
chiefs and people held another meeting on board, and 
had another talk, after which they drank yanggona and 
became friends. 

Yanggona drinking is a great affair in Feejee. No 
meetings are held and no business is transacted without 
the drinking of yanggona. It is a part of their religious 
ceremony. 

The Feejeeans give the following account of the origin 
of this root: — They say that a man and his wife started 
many years ago from Tonga, in a canoe, for the purpose 
of trying to catch the sun for a " tombe" or neck orna- 



348 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

merit. They thought they should find the place where it 
sets, by sailing towards it, and they kept on till they ar- 
rived in Feejee. Their child was buried on an island 
near Bau. From the grave, the first root of yanggona 
ever known in Feejee sprang up. 

17. Elijah preached at Tavea. He had a large and 
attentive congregation. Natemba and several of his 
tribe wish to be married and baptized. In accordance 
with their request, I have written to Rev. J. Williams, 
at Bua, to request him to visit this place, when conven- 
ient, for the purpose of performing such religious cere- 
monies as he deems expedient. 

19. Last night an unusual noise near the windows of 
the cabin awoke us. Soon after, the watchman entered, 
and informed Mr. W. that he believed " De devil was 
hanging by de hook over de stern." It was found to be 
an enormous shark. He was safely moored till morning, 
when he was sent ashore to serve as a feast for the 
natives. 

25. Rev. Mr. Williams arrived from Bua, visited 
Tavea, where he preached, married, and baptized seve- 
ral couples. Natemba is now called Moses. 

In the morning, just at the dawn of day, Elijah walked 
to a retired spot on the island, and knelt among the 
bushes to pray. He had not been thus engaged long, 
before he heard a slight rustling among the bushes. 
Feeling no doubt, in such a land as this, the importance 
of watching as well as praying, he looked up and saw a 
man standing over him, with his club raised, just ready 
to strike. "What! is it you, Elijah?" exclaimed the 
man, " I thought it was some one who was hiding for a 
vile purpose, and was just ready to kill him." " The 
Lord has preserved me from your murderous hand," said 
Elijah, " as He will ever preserve those that fully trust in 






LIFE IN FEEJEE. 349 

Him." The man walked off, and Elijah finished his 
prayer, thanking God most heartily for his preservation. 

After tea I visited the island of Tavea for the first 
time. All the boys and girls of the place closely followed 
our steps, just as the boys run behind a crazy person 
in our streets at home, and when we turned to look 
at them, they would run away as if afraid that we should 
bite them. The island is very small, its inhabitants 
numerous, and the houses in a dilapidated condition. 
The house of Moses was large, but nearly in ruins. 
" Why do you not build better houses?" I asked. " We 
are afraid that our enemies will come and burn them," 
was the reply. Formerly, no food was raised here, — the 
inhabitants depending entirely upon the main land for 
their subsistence, but, having learned at length how easy 
a matter it is to be surrounded by enemies, and starved, 
they have set out bread-fruit and banana trees in abun- 
dance. The island of Naloa has been the garden of 
Tavea till of late. Dumbui has built a town and settled 
there with his tribe. There are now large plantations 
on it belonging to the Tavea people; but they have re- 
cently been kept from procuring food there by the hostil- 
ity of Dumbui and his cannibals. On our arrival, the 
Tavea people had subsisted for some time on green 
bananas only. We walked to the opposite side of the 
island, and found that a few rods only separated it from 
the Vanualavu, or the main land. 

Mr. Williams here gave me an account of the man- 
ner in which the natives exchange their food. The in- 
habitants of the small islands bring their fish to the main, 
and deposit it on the shore in heaps, taking care to 
keep a good distance from their neighbors, for there 
seems never to be a time when Feejeeans can trust each 
other. The inhabitants of the main also deposit the veg- 



350 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

etables which they may have brought, in heaps like the 
others. When all are ready, a rush is made by the par- 
ties to procure what they can, and run for their homes. 
Of course, the division of food is most unequal. A poor 
old woman has, perhaps, been successful in fishing, and 
carries to the shore a larger quantity than the rest; but, 
distanced by the strong and more active, she totters 
back to her home without any thing in return. About 
dusk we returned to the bark, where Mr. Williams 
preached in the evening in English in the house on 
deck, and afterwards prayed in native in the cabin. 

26. Mr. Williams left us to return to Bua. He re- 
lated the following incident of their life at Bua. It ap- 
pears that after the death of Tui Mbua, a son, named 
Muchanamu, assumed the title of Turaga-lavu, and 
imagined himself a great man. He had an elder bro- 
ther, whose rank was equal to his own, but he had been 
reared by a relative who had for many years been at 
variance with his father. He renounced heathenism, 
became a good man, and cared not to govern the people 
belonging to his late father. Accordingly, there was no 
one to dispute the authority of Muchanamu, and he pro- 
ceeded to lay the following plans for his own aggrandize- 
ment and the benefit of posterity. He assembled all his 
warriors, and in secret conclave communicated his plans 
of the great and glorious enterprise in which he wished 
them to engage. First, they were to proceed to Mathu- 
ata, kill Retova and as many of his people as possible, 
in revenge for an uncle who had been killed long before. 
After their conquest of Mathuata, on their return to Bua 
they were to destroy all their enemies, burn their towns, 
destroy their plantations, and bring the women and 
riches to Bua. After their return from this glorious 
campaign, they were to attack the mission station, mas- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 351 

sacre Mr. Williams and the children, and take the prop- 
erty belonging to the mission for a spoil. After all this 
was accomplished, the women and the riches were to be 
divided among the warriors, Mrs. W. falling to the share 
of Muchanamu. A "buri" was to be erected to com- 
memorate the wonderful events, the warriors were to be 
feasted, and then return to their homes laden with 
riches and covered with glory. The assembled warriors 
were delighted with the glowing prospects now set be- 
fore them, and proceeded at once to cut and erect the 
posts for the great " buri," which was to be finished on 
their return. 

After several days of feasting, the army departed for 
Mathuata, which was to be the first scene of action. 
They had not travelled far, when Muchanamu went into 
a town to order food to be prepared for himself and his 
warriors. It appears that he went into the town alone, 
which is an unusual thing for a chief. I know of no in- 
stance in Feejee in which a chief ventured abroad unat- 
tended. The inhabitants of the town, whom he supposed 
were his friends, showed their love to him by depriving 
him of his life and sending his body to Raverave. No 
reason is known for the act. Many stories are told, but 
the truth is not to be obtained, at least, at present. The 
sudden and unexpected death of their chief cooled the 
courage of the warriors, and they fled in terror to their 
homes. 

27. It will be recollected that Mr. Williams and 
family were stationed for several years at Somosomo. 
He related to us some anecdotes of Tuilili, the ruling 
chief of that place. He describes him as being exceed- 
ingly large in size, and possessing a great deal of mus- 
cular strength, the expression of his countenance as most 
wicked, and his general appearance revolting in the ex- 



352 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

treme. He is a great tyrant, but tender of his own 
subjects. 

On one occasion a man stole some article from Mr. 
W. He complained to the chief, who began to take 
fire at once. iS Who is the man?" he asked. The 
name was mentioned. " Oh, but he is one of my men. 
I thought it had been somebody else, that I might have 
punished him." ct And why is one of your men to be 
passed by? the loss is the same to me," said Mr. W. 
Nothing more was said about the affair, and the culprit 
did not know that his chief knew of the depredation 
which he had committed. The chief, however, kept the 
thing in his mind, and determined to give his people a 
lesson through the punishment of another. Soon after 
the first complaint, a Tonguese stole something, when 
the chief clubbed him severely, saying that was the way 
to serve thieves. His people received the warning, and 
were benefited by it. Thus the object of the chief was 
effected without punishing one of his ovvn people. 

Messrs. Lyth and Williams at one time refused him 
some request that he had made, when he became ex- 
ceedingly angry, rushed into the house, and catching 
hold of them, took one in each hand, (both are small 
men, and he almost a giant,) and threatened to smash 
them together. In a few moments, however, he became 
cool enough to listen to reason, and soon became as lov- 
ing as he had been angry. Their tea was about being 
served. He seated himself by Mr. W. and would eat 
from the same plate, and the same piece of bread must 
serve both; first one taking a bite and then the other. 
He would sometimes eat half a banana, and thrust the 
remaining half into the mouth of one of the gentlemen. 
Sometimes, when his body was well besmeared with 
black and red paint, he would fall to hugging one of the 



LIFE IN. FEEJEE. 353 

gentlemen, till the victim would get the greatest portion 
of the paint transferred to himself. 

A few months previous to the death of the king of 
Somospmo, the father of Tuilili, he went to Bau. Tuilili 
stood on the shore, his bosom heaving, and the big tears 
coursing down his cheeks, exclaiming, "Oh! I shall 
never see my old father again." The gentlemen of the 
mission called to see him soon after, and found him seat- 
ed in one corner of his house, with a few of his father's 
old friends, weeping most bitterly, and talking of his fa- 
ther. Contrary, however, to the fears of Tuilili, the old 
king lived to return to his home, and be buried alive by 
his dutiful and affectionate son. The following story of 
the death of the king is given as related to us by Mr. W. 

As soon as he heard of the sickness of the king, he 
called to visit him. Tuilili met him with one of his affec- 
tionate embraces, and said, " See, the father of us both 
is dead!" "Dead!" exclaimed Mr. Williams, as he 
glanced at the heaving breast of the king. " Yes, his 
spirit is gone, — that is only his body that moves," 
was the reply. The king raised his hand to his neck, 
and felt of a necklace of whales' teeth that had been 
placed there, then coughed, and laid his hand on his 
side. The loving son would not allow Mr. W. to speak 
to the king, who, finding that he could not save him 
from being buried alive, turned his attention to the 
living. Two women had been strangled already, and 
they were preparing more for the awful ceremony; but 
Mr. W. prevailed on Tuilili to promise that no more 
should be sacrificed. The body of the still living king, 
was wrapped in mats, and with those of the women was 
taken to a place called Nasima, where he was divested of 
his ornaments and carried to his grave. The bodies of 
the women were first placed in the grave, and then that 
23 



354 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

of the king. He was heard to cough in the grave before 
the earth was thrown in. 

Thirty whales' teeth, twelve muskets, four clubs, and 
a large quantity of cloth had been presented to the sick 
man, but he was sent to " bulu," to encounter all the 
dangers of the way without either, and no other protec- 
tion than that which could be afforded by the women 
who had accompanied him. There is one particular 
family at Somosomo, whose privilege it is on the death 
of a chief to supply a man, who is strangled and goes on 
before his superior, to hold a certain large dog, (which 
is always in the way between this world and " bulu") 
while the chief passes on his way. On this occasion, 
however, the family, from some cause, could not meet 
the supply, and that part of the ceremony was omitted. 

Mr. W. thinks that the indirect influence of Christian- 
ity may be observed in the ease with which many im- 
portant parts of their former ceremonies, on such occa- 
sions, have been laid aside. 

After the interment of the king, there was a great de- 
mand for scissors, razors, knives, &c. Dandies were 
despoiled of their well-dressed whiskers, moustaches, &c. 
A great reduction of fingers also took place, but there 
were not enough to supply the demand, and many were 
required from the country. 

28. Mr. Williams while with us also related the fol- 
lowing affair, which lately occurred at Nandy, the sta- 
tion occupied by Rev. D. Hazlewood. Mr. H. was at 
Bua with his child at the time. 

The Saukase people sent a messenger to the chief of 
Solavu, saying, "The people of Nandy have embraced 
the ' lotu ' religion. We will go and kill them, burn 
their towns, and despoil them of their riches. Will 
you join us?" The chief of Solavu has been for some 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 355 

time past exceedingly virulent against the Christians of 
Nandy. He sent word, therefore, that he would gladly 
join in the work of destruction. The hostile tribes lost 
no time in joining their forces and marching towards 
Nandy. As they approached the place, their courage 
entirely forsook them, and instead of clubbing, spearing, 
shooting, and then feasting on the bodies of the slain, as 
they had boasted, they stopped, looked fearfully at each 
other, and, at length sent a messenger into the town, 
saying, " What shall we do?" "Do what you choose," 
was the answer. Another messenger came, saying, 
" Tell us what we must do." " Do just what you wish," 
was the brief reply. The Nandy people had prepared 
themselves for the reception of their enemies, and were 
quietly waiting their approach. At length the invaders 
came within speaking distance of the assembled warriors 
of Nandy, and both parties seated themselves upon the 
ground, and stared at each other. After some time, the 
commander of the besiegers said to the Christian chief, 
" You c soro ' to us, and we will go home." " Why 
should we ' soro ' to you, having done you no harm?" 
was the cool reply. i( Ah, no, but you i soro,' and we 
will leave you in peace," said he. " No, we shall not 
'soro,'" said the chief. Another pause ensued, and 
they continued to look at each other. A warrior then 
took a whale's tooth, and holding it on one side, that it 
might not be seen by his fellows, walked stealthily to the 
Nandy chief, and in a whisper said, "Here, you take 
this tooth, and 'soro' to us, that we may go home." 
(l I shall do no such thing," replied the chief. The dis- 
concerted warrior returned to his place, and the parties 
still stared at each other. The invaders could not sum- 
mon courage to attack the Christians, and they were 
ashamed to leave the place without doing any thing. At 



356 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

last the Solavu, or the Saukase chief, (I have forgotten 
which,) took a whale's tooth, and, pretending to repre- 
sent the Nandy people, presented it to his own warriors, 
or the two hostile tribes, and said, hurriedly, "Here, 
you take this tooth, you be of c a good mind ' towards us, 
and we will be of 'a good mind ' towards you. After 
playing "soro" in this manner, they departed. I think 
Mr. W. said that the Saukase people were subject to 
Nandy. 

After the Saukase people returned to their homes 
they held a council, when a speaker, addressing the as- 
sembly, said, " We have acted like fools. We went to 
fight Nandy; we returned as we went; we were afraid, 
and now we are ashamed. What shall we do?" "Re- 
nounce our gods and join the Christians. It was the 
Christians 5 god that made you afraid," was the reply. 
" Venaka" (it is good) was the response. The result 
was that the whole tribe renounced heathenism, and are 
receiving religious instruction. 

30. Raverave. Retova has become quite impatient 
with us for remaining so long at Tavea, that "kaise" 
place, as he terms it. He had forbidden the selling of 
food to that people, and thrown out sundry hints about 
burning houses, <kc. Accordingly Mr. W. made ar- 
rangements for the Tavea and Naloa people to go on 
with their fishing, while he visited Raverave with the 
bark and made love to the chief. 

I notice a marked difference in the dialect of the 
different parts of this group of islands. For instance, 
the inhabitants at the windward of Raverave call the 
name of the chief of Mathuata, Garatova; at the lee- 
ward, Retova ; while the inhabitants of Geer call him 
Oratova. 

Namosimalua came here from Naloa to present his 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 357 

large canoe, the Lagi-lavu, to Retova. He was accom- 
panied by some sixty or eighty of his people, who have 
all remained here for the last five weeks. Namosi is 
fond of making a great show; but Retova is not fond of 
feeding so many visitors for such a length of time. 

June 1. A Vewa man died last night at Raverave. 
He had formerly renounced heathenism, but on coming 
to this place to live, he took a couple of wives, and re- 
turned to all the innocent delights of heathenism again. 
The widows were anxious to accompany their husband 
to the other world, and were preparing to do so, when 
Elijah landed from the boat and forbade their being- 
strangled. 

4. Namosimalua and Retova have requested Mr. 
W. to take the chief of Vewa, with his attendants, 
pigs, turtles, and all belonging to him, to Naika- 
rotumba, or Vetelavu. Mr. W., not having suffi- 
cient supplies for so large a company, as he would be 
expected to find them food on their way, and not deem- 
ing it important for the interests of his voyage, he mod- 
estly refused compliance, much to the chagrin of the 
chiefs. 

6. The visitors of Raverave departed this morning, 
after having, like the locusts of Egypt, eaten down every 
green thing. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Visit to Raverave — Feejeean Affection — Visit to Bua — Feejeean Courtesy 
— District Meeting — Arrival of the Zotoff— Departure from Bua — Arri- 
val at Vetelavu — Thakombau's visit — Cannibalism. 

June 7. I accompanied Elijah to Raverave. The 
town is surrounded by lofty hills, open to the sea only at 



358 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

the north. It contains about fifty houses; most of them 
are small. The town of Raverave had been destroyed 
some two years since, but was immediately rebuilt. Two 
large " buris " were erected on the same spot where the 
two destroyed had stood. On our way I was shown a 
ditch where the remains of Tui Mathuata, the murdered 
king, were thrown at the time of the massacre. 

On arriving at the town, as we passed a little " buri," 
we heard the voice of Retova, and were about to enter; 
but observing several clubs on the outside, Elijah said 
that he was probably engaged with messengers from dis- 
tant towns, so we passed on to his house. This we 
found to be large and neatly finished. It is quite new, 
and called Garenggeo. Every house in Feejee has a 
name. There were a dozen women and several chil- 
dren present. " Where is the Marama ?" I asked. 
"We are all Maramas," was the reply. I observed 
several musquito curtains, made of native cloth, thrown 
over bamboos. These are let down at night, and form 
distinct sleeping apartments, — an arrangement not to be 
found among the civilized natives of Manilla, where fa- 
thers, mothers, brothers, sisters, uncles, aunts and 
cousins, if they happen to be there, all sleep in one 
apartment. 

As Retova did not come in, Elijah, Phebe and myself 
walked out to il sara sara." We first went to the grave- 
yard. Here we found some half dozen graves, with 
little houses, like beehives, built over them. Fine cin- 
net was wrought in the open fronts, in the form of a 
spider's web. A large and beautiful tamarind tree wav- 
ed over the graves. This tree and one at Tavea are all 
of the kind to be found in Feejee. They have grown 
from the stones of the fruit, which were presented by 
Mr. Wallis in 1836. Tamarinds were hanging from it 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 359 

in abundance. It is very uncommon for one to die a 
natural death in this group, which may account for the 
small number of graves. 

We next visited the spot where Tui Mathuata met 
his untimely fate. Several men assembled here, and 
all seemed eager to answer my inquiries respecting the 
occurrence, pointing out the different positions occupied 
by the murderers and the murdered. I told them that it 
was very wicked for them to kill people in that way. 
" Yes, 55 they said, " it is very wicked. The Feejeeans 
are a foolish people." " You do not believe what you 
say," I replied, " or you would follow the good example 
of Elijah, give up your wicked practices, and become 
Christians." " Yes, Marama, we intend to do so by 
and by," they replied. They would have deemed 
it very uncivil to have differed from me in opinion, 
or to have said any thing in favor of their own cus- 
toms. 

While we were talking, several women joined us. As 
I was desirous of entering their sacred edifice, and see- 
ing Elijah look as though he liked not to take the re- 
sponsibility of such an act, I said to an old man, ,c Is it 
c tambu ' for a white woman to go in here?" "No," he 
replied. " You may go in. It is c tambu-lavu ' for a 
Feejeean woman to go. If she should enter our god's 
house we should kill her." Thank heaven! I exclaimed, 
as I ascended the steps, that I was not born in Feejee. 
I think one may be allowed to indulge a little of the 
Pharasaical spirit here, where there is so marked a dis- 
tinction between God's creatures. 

Elijah and the old man followed me, leaving the wo- 
men astonished at so unheard of a thing, as for a woman 
to enter the house of a god. The old man showed me 
where the king was seated when Korovaka-turaga en- 



360 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

tered, — where hung the murderous weapon, — how he 
approached the unsuspicious victim, — where Retova sat, 
&c, &c. The "buri" is a lofty edifice, neatly built, 
but contains no offerings to its god, — no riches whatever. 
One club hung against the wall, and one breadth of Eu- 
ropean cloth was suspended from the ridge-pole of the 
building to the ground. This serves as a veil to hide 
the god when he descends to communicate with his sub- 
jects. I am not certain, however, about his descent. 
As the veil extends to the ground, it is probable, that, 
being an inhabitant of the lower regions, he ascends to 
this part of the world. As the gods, however, do not 
show themselves, even to the priests, we have no means 
of ascertaining the exact truth, and must leave the ques- 
tion unsettled. 

"Do your priests never go behind the veil to see their 
god?" I asked the old man. " If he were to see the 
face of the god, he would die," was the reply. From 
whence could they have obtained that idea? so perfectly 
in accordance with the Bible. From whence their offer- 
ings of the first fruits of their lands to their gods, — and 
the rite of circumcision? — of throwing ashes upon the 
head when they have offended a superior ? 

We passed out of this and went on to the other 
large " buri," where the body of Muchanamu was ta- 
ken and divided after it was baked. Some say that no 
one ate of it, being very much spoiled, as it did not arrive 
till several days after the murder. Others say that the 
" kaises " devoured it. I inquired where our old friend, the 
Mbete, was, and was told that he was dead, and that no 
one succeeded him. Retova says that if a papain gi mis- 
sionary would come here and live, he would " lotu," and 
have no Mbete in Vete. Thus the house seems to 
be swept and garnished. Who shall take possession? 



LIFE IN F.EEJEE. 361 

Shall demons be allowed to enter this broad opening, or 
shall the gospel light illume the place, teaching men and 
women to serve God? 

The fact that there were no priests, accounts for their 
being no offerings in the "buri." The sacred veil was 
made of cloth that I had seen in our trade room a short 
time before. I took hold of it and said, "How dare you 
use papalagi cloth for this purpose? Shall I tear it from 
its hangings, and take it away?" " Kagua Marama, 
Jcagna Marama, sa venaka ongo." " Do not, do not, it 
is very good." 

We now returned to the Vale Garenggeo. Retova 
was still absent. We were offered some bananas, and 
informed that when they expected me to come and see 
them, a few days since, they prepared puddings for me; 
but as I did not come, they sent them to the vessel, 
and now they had nothing to offer. 

After resting for awhile, we left for the purpose of re- 
turning to the vessel. On our way we were joined by 
the chief, and shown the oven where Muchanamu was 
baked, and the spot where his head was buried. Hu- 
man heads are never eaten. Phebe kept close to 
me, and since we have been in Feejee has shown no dis- 
position, so common in the females, of running away. 
One of the white residents of Solavu informed me that 
those of them who had resided for any length of time 
in this group, ha<d provided themselves with iron chains 
for the purp'ose of confining their women who showed a 
disposition to leave their masters and owners. Thus we 
see there are slaveholders in this part of the world; but 
this is not surprising, as many of these slaveholders 
came, from America, that glorious land of liberty, where 
three millions of the population are neld in bondage! 

9. Retova came on board this morning, and soon 



362 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

after a canoe arrived from Kandavu, bringing its chief. 
Ashes were scattered over his head, and a handful was 
placed on one shoulder. He approached Retova with 
an air of the deepest humility, exclaiming " An soro, au 
soro " — S£ 1 ask your pardon, I ask your pardon " — and 
offered thje chief a whale's tooth. It was accepted, thus 
showing that the offender was pardoned. It appears that 
the t chief of Ngagumu had offered love to one of the 
swarthy dames of Kandavu. Tomarau-ni-waqa, the 
chief of Kandavu, was justly indignant at such conduct, 
and determined to punish the bold offender, which he did 
by burning his town. He then came, as related above, 
to ask the pardon of the chief of Mathuata, as the town 
of the offender belonged to him. The Ngagumu mes- 
sengers came to settle their part of the affair the day that 
I visited Raverave. Both parties must ask the forgive- 
ness of Retova, as both were his subjects. 

Elijah has gone to Tavea and Naloa, to preach on the 
coming Sabbath. His preaching costume consists of a 
plain piece of white or blue cloth fastened around the 
waist, falling*as low as the ancles. Over that is worn a 
striped shirt, and a gray frock coat completes the suit. 

10. Inquired to-day of Retova where his friend Koro- 
vaka-turaga was: He said that he was living at Naivu; 
that after the murder of the king they became afraid of 
each other; that he was afraid to sleep and Korova- 
katuraga also ; that one morning all the women and 
children of his friend were missing, and when ano- 
ther morning came he had also run away; that he had 
now become his enemy, and sought every means to an- 
noy and injure him since his residence at Naivu, and that 
a few weeks ago thirteen of his people had been mur- 
dered by his orders. " How many of his people have 
you killed?" I asked. "I have had none killed," he 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 363 

replied. Cf It is very bad to kill people in that way." 
"You are only waiting for an opportunity," I said. 
"Who killed the king of all these broad lands?" " Ko- 
rovaka-turaga. He is a very bad man. He ordered 
Harry and his companions to be murdered," was his an- 
swer. " Did you not deceive your uncle, and draw him 
here to your town by your fair speeches, and then em- 
ploy your friend to murder him? God is very angry with 
you for it, and it is He who has caused*your friend to 
become your enemy. Now you have no rest or peace 
for fear of your enemies. You are losing your flesh. 
See how poor you are. And what did you gain by your 
wicked, cruel act? Your friend that was, is a strong 
man. Your uncle was old and weak. His son has been 
joined by the strong man and his people, in consequence 
of which he is strengthened, while you have become 
weaker." He looked distressed, but made no reply. 

11. We received a visit from several of the ladies 
belonging to the harem of the chief; among the number 
was a daughter of the late king. She hack been demand- 
ed by, and given to Tanoa, king of Bau, but while on a 
visit to her father, as she and several of her women were 
one day employed in fishing, she was taken to Mathuata 
by force, to become a wife of her cousin, who was the 
determined enemy of her father. The affair gave great 
offence to Tanoa at the time, but when Retova went in 
the bark to visit Bau on our first voyage, he " soroed" 
to the king with a musket and some whales' teeth. The 
offering was accepted, but it is said that the king has not 
forgotten the insult. 

16. I have just concluded the reading* of Typee and 
Omoo, by Melville. The author writes most beautifully. 
Every word has a meaning. Some of his statements and 
descriptions, although finely written, are, I think, incor- 



364 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

rect. For instance, the damsels in the valley of Typee 
may have blue eyes, but they are to be seen in no other 
islands of the Pacific, except with a white skin. 

His description of the bread-fruit tree reads very pret- 
tily, but I do not understand it. Wherever I have seen 
it, the foliage is perennial. He says the fruit " hangs 
in golden spheres." The fruit when ripe is green, when 
unripe is green, and the leaves are green. 

Melville should never come to Feejee, for there would 
be some danger of his readers becoming cannibals. He 
would present the rites of heathenism and cannibalism 
in forms so attractive that they would be anxious to enjoy 
the delicate feasts. I am not sure that many damsels 
who have read of the " pretty blue-eyed tawny " of Ty- 
pee, have not tried to hold a raw fish in their delicate 
fingers. 

A word about Omoo. The author has given a faithful 
and true picture of the lives of deserters from ships. 
They are to be found in very many of the islands of the 
Pacific, and many of them are precisely as he has por- 
trayed them — a lazy, lying, thieving set, and would 
rather steal their food at any time than earn an honest 
subsistence by even weeding a garden. If missionaries 
are residents where they are, they will be sure to flee 
from their presence as the author states, and then blame 
and ridicule their proceedings. 

18. A young woman was strangled in the town. She 
had suffered for several weeks from some complaint in 
her head. Mr. Wallis had directed Elijah to let blood 
from a vein in her arm, to shave her head, and apply 
blisters, Medicines were also administered, but nothing 
relieved her, and to-day, as soon as Elijah left the place 
to visit Bau and Vewa, the Marama said, "Now Elijah 
has departed, the girl cannot recover, she will be a long 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 365 

time dying; let us strangle her that we may not be 
troubled with her any longer." The assembled dames 
of Raverave pronounced the speech to be very good, and 
soon ended the sufferings of the girl with the strangling 
cord. 

July 5. Retova has sailed this morning for Namuka, 
with a numerous retinue, to attend a " Solavu." I told 
him to see that no people were killed and eaten while on 
their passages. He replied that he was too good a man 
for that business. 

The wife of the chief Ndury, who is a native of Vewa, 
and a niece of Elijah, tells me that Retova and Ratan- 
ga have given up their cannibalism. 

8. We have been honored with a visit from a party 
of Raverave ladies, all dressed in their best " lekus " for 
the occasion. These seldom visit the shipping. I was 
on the deck when they arrived, but as they expressed a 
wish to see the cabin, I invited them down. The great 
object of attraction was the looking-glass. As they stood 
before it arranging their hair, &c, I told them that they 
were " vindevinde," or proud. " And so are you proud," 
said one, as she seated herself on the floor, looking very 
prim, and imitating exactly, I should think, my own man- 
ner at the time of my visit to their town. The natives 
are accomplished imitators. 

The ladies composing the harem of the chief are mostly 
of equal rank. The daughter of the late king ranks the 
highest, but she seems not to be a favorite. She is child- 
less, too, so that Retova has no benefit from a ct vasu" 
to the territories of his enemies. One of his wives is the 
daughter of a chief of Thakendrove, another of Jekom- 
bea, and another of Geer. Her father, a chief of Geer, 
was murdered a short time since by the order of Retova, 
on account of some love affair. 



366 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

16. Elijah has returned from Vewa, bringing us let- 
ters from the ladies of the mission. We learn from them 
that the Consulate at Rewa has been destroyed by fire. 
The fourth of July was being celebrated by the firing of 
guns, when, by some accident, the buildings took fire 
and were soon in ashes. 

18. As the natives of Raverave and vicinity appear 
tired of fishing, Mr. W. thinks best to return to Ba for a 
season, and let this people rest. Retova has received a 
handsome American flag among other things, as a pres- 
ent, with which he appears highly delighted and perfectly 
satisfied. It has long been his ambition to possess a 
large, handsome flag. 

19. Tavea. As Mr. W. intended to remain at Tavea 
a few days, I started in the Glide at daylight to visit Bua. 
The land breeze soon died away, when our craft lay per- 
fectly still upon the glassy bosom of the waters. Mr. W. 
seeing our situation, sent the jolly boat and six Feejee- 
ans to row, that we might speed on our way and not be 
obliged to pass the night on the water. Elijah and my- 
self took passage in the boat, and were soon on our way, 
the commander of the Glide observing as we left that 
they would soon overtake us when the sea breeze arose. 
Supposing this would be the case, we took no water or 
provisions on board for our crew. 

As we passed Naloa, Elijah said there was a rock near 
the shore that was visible at ebb tide, which is classed 
among the gods of Feejee. It is about three feet high, 
and is supposed to devour all the musquitoes that would 
otherwise settle on the island. It is called the musqui- 
to's tooth. I remarked that they had better remove his 
godship to the island of Ono. At ten o'clock a slight 
breeze arose, which enabled us to endure the scorching 
rays of the sun. The breeze did not favor the passage 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 367 

of the Glide, as it was directly ahead; therefore the 
rowers had the pleasant prospect of rowing a distance of 
forty miles before resting from their labors. A pint bot- 
tle of coffee and a small loaf of cake had been provided 
for myself, and had found their way to the boat, wrapped 
in my boat cloak. Finding that all had left the bark 
fasting, I divided half of the loaf among them, reserving 
the other half and the coffee for dinner. 

At twelve o'clock we had made good progress. Three 
of the men rowed at a time, relieving each other alter- 
nately. I now gave them the rest of the loaf and the 
coffee: the latter was scarcely enough to wet their lips. 
As Elijah and myself did not work, we obeyed the apos- 
tolic injunction " not to eat." 

About four o'clock we passed Nai Thombothombo, the 
supposed residence of the principal god of this island. 
His dominions are somewhat extensive, and covered with 
a dense forest of trees, shrubs and creeping vines. Eli- 
jah said that no person would dare to take even a leaf 
from the place, lest Okuru, the god, should be angry. 
Elijah had not probably been among the worshippers of 
Okuru, as he seemed to know but little about him, farther 
than that it was said he had many wives, and numerous 
attendants of little gods. As this is an acknowledged 
fact, I conclude that Okuru is not of the Roman faith. 

The coast by which we passed, presented but little 
variety of scenery; broken hills and rugged defiles being 
the principal objects. There were on some parts sloping 
hills nearly covered with a tree called the Ndrala, which 
bears a bright scarlet blossom; the trunk and limbs were 
white, and nearly destitute of foliage. The natives plant 
their yams when this tree is in blossom. 

We arrived at Bua bay an hour before the sun set, 
and Elijah asked if they should land and rest a little, and 



363 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

refresh themselves with some cocoa-nuts, great quanti- 
ties of which were growing near. I gladly assented, for 
I had been pained on account of the long day's labor 
which I had occasioned, and which they had so cheerfully 
performed. If one seemed to lag, Elijah would say, 
"Work away, Mr. Wallis will be angry if we do not 
reach Bua by dark." I said, " What strong men you 
are! You are not weak. You pull hard and fast. See 
how the boat flies through the water!" After this they 
would ply the oars with vigor, saying, " It is our love to 
Mr. W. and yourself which causes us to be strong men." 
Now the truth was, they did not feel a bit of love, and I 
presume they were wishing me any where else than 
where I was, but a Feejeean will never be outdone in 
compliments. 

I remained alone in the boat, while my crew, with Eli- 
jah, repaired to the land. In about half an hour they 
returned, loaded with young cocoa-nuts. The meat had 
just begun to form, while the shell was full of cool, deli- 
cious milk. With what eagerness I quaffed the delecta- 
ble beverage, I will leave those to imagine, who, like my- 
self, have been seated in an open boat for the space of 
twelve hours without once changing their position or 
breaking their fasting. I did not suffer from hunger or 
thirst through the day, and I had been sheltered from the 
rays of the sun by an umbrella. We had not seen a 
canoe on our way, and our journey seemed likely to ter- 
minate without any romantic occurrence whatever. 

Having to cross the bay, which is eight miles wide, 
before we gained the mouth of the river, we now 
hastened on, and arrived at the entrance of the river a 
few moments before the sun left us for a time, to illume 
other climes. As we sailed up the beautiful river, we 
seemed to have entered some fairy scene. Not a ripple 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 369 

stirred (he waters; the beautiful mangroves which lined 
its banks were reflected in them as in a mirror, and even 
the untutored natives seemed to feel an influence from 
the beauties of nature, for instead of the quick, strong 
pull at their oars, they now plied them gently, so gen- 
tly that they scarcely ruffled the surface of the waters, 
as if they feared to disturb the surrounding harmony of 
the scene. I shall never forget the happiness of that 
hour. It rests upon my mind like some happy dream of 
childhood. I had such dreams once, and shall never for- 
get them. They seem to be interwoven with my \ery 
existence, and their memory has accompanied me through 
all the varied scenes which I have passed. 

About dark we arrived at the mission station, and were 
welcomed at the landing by Mr. and Mrs. Williams, who 
had received word of our coming by a native of Tavea, 
who had performed the journey from Tavea to Bua in 
much less time than we had the distance over land, being 
only eight miles, while the numerous capes and points to 
be rounded by water make the distance about forty miles. 

20. Bua is a part of the main land. Fine table land 
extends to the distance of six or eight miles. The course 
of the river which runs through it has never yet been 
traced to its source. The mission house is located on a 
bend of the river, and looks exceedingly romantic from 
an opening between the cocoa nut and bread fruit trees 
at a little distance, where one catches the first view as 
he ascends the river, nor is its beauty lessened on a 
nearer approach. It is decidedly the prettiest and best 
dwelling to be seen in Feejee. It was built under the 
superintendence, and with the assistance of Mr. Williams, 
who, in addition to his other acquirements, possesses a 
good share of architectural knowledge. Order is to be 
seen in every department of the mission. Mr. and Mrs. 
24 



370 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Williams have five children of their own, and one of Mr. 
Hazle wood's. 

22. The town in which the mission is situated is 
called Televa, and is governed by the eldest son of 
Tuimbua, the late king, who, as I have before stated, 
renounced heathenism some time since. He and some 
of his people appear to be truly converted, while nearly 
all the inhabitants of his town are nominal Christians. 
He has been a great warrior in his day, or rather in the 
early part of it, for it is now only mid-day with him. His 
countenance is one of the most strongly marked that I 
have seen. He has received the baptismal name of 
Hezekiah; appears to feel a great deal for the spiritual 
welfare of his countrymen, and is receiving instruction 
from Mr. Williams, for the purpose of becoming a 
preacher. 

On the opposite side of the river stands the town of 
Vaturua, which was the residence of the late king during 
the latter part of his life. This people are very much 
opposed to the Christian religion, or not so much on ac- 
count of the religion itself, as the insult which they fancy 
they have received on account of it. It will be remem- 
bered that one of the former wives of Elijah was a 
daughter of Tuimbua. He married another, and return- 
ed her to her kindred and tribe. This insult they will 
not forgive. The old men of the place declare that she 
shall have no other husband, that the insult may not be 
forgotten. It is said that these wicked old men were the 
counsellors of Muchanamu, the chief, and are now try- 
ing to pervert his successor, who is called Peter, and 
who appears friendly to the mission, and inclined to 
peace. Peter has a younger brother who listens to them, 
and appears to tread in the steps of Muchanamu to do 
evil. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 371 

Vaturua was formerly the residence of Tuimuru, 
Tuirnbua's cousin, who adopted Hezekiah as his son. 
For many years the two chiefs lived in amity, but, at 
length, dissensions arose between them, and they became 
inveterate enemies. Hezekiah was in favor of his rela- 
tive, and fought against his father for many years. The 
warfare, however, was not carried on by the fighting of 
battles, as few, if any, were fought for several years. If 
a stray man or woman was found by the hostile tribe, 
they were caught and devoured. A spear would be 
thrown across the river, sometimes hitting a person, and 
sometimes a tree. After several years had passed in 
this way, the people of Vaturua determined to attack 
Televa, and have a regular battle. This they did, and 
drove Tuimbua, with his people, off some distance into 
the interior, where he lived for several years, each party 
amusing themselves by destroying occasionally a town or 
plantation belonging to his enemy. The Vaturueans 
took up their residence at Televa, which they have con- 
tinued to occupy till this day. 

When the American squadron visited these isles, one 
of the vessels came to Bua, and its commander invited 
the two chiefs on board, and advised them then and there 
to settle their difficulties, and become friends again. 
The chiefs talked over their affairs, pretended to forgive 
each other, kissed, exchanged their dresses, and then 
declared that they would be like brothers, as in days of 
yore, and that fighting should no longer be known in 
their lands, but that they would till them, catch their fish, 
and eat their yams in peace. 

Tuimbua now returned to Bua, and settled at Vaturua. 
The peace was not of long continuance. Tuimbua was 
not celebrated for his warlike abilities. He seemed 
rather to love peace, and on the commencement of war 



372 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

again, he sent to Vevva to ask the assistance of Verani, 
promising him his favorite daughter for a wife, as a re- 
ward for his services. Elijah came, both parties fought , 
but neither conquered, and the chiefs lived at enmity, 
carrying on a desultory warfare until four years since, 
when Tuimuru renounced heathenism, made peace with 
Tuimbua, and died soon after, leaving Hezekiah to reign 
in his stead. 

Tuimbua died about a year afterwards, leaving, besides 
Hezekiah, three sons of equal rank, Muchanamu, whose 
fate has been recorded, Peter and Uarambata. Such is 
a summary of the history of Bua, as given me by Elijah 
on our late passage to this place. 

23. Sabbath. I attended the native service in the 
chapel in the morning. The congregation was not as 
large as at Vevva, but the singing was far better. I can- 
not become habituated to listen with pleasure to the sing- 
ing where the tune is snapped off at the end of every two 
lines. It destroys all the harmony of music; however, 
the custom of lineing out the hymns may serve to fix the 
attention of the worshipper on the words. I think it 
must serve to cramp rather than elevate the soul, which 
I believe to be the design of music. 

After the native service in the morning, Mr. Williams 
preached in English. The latter service was held in his 
study. It was very pleasant to me to unite once more 
with the people of God in worshipping Him who has be- 
stowed so many blessings upon us, and saved us from so 
many dangers to which we have been exposed. 

24. Mrs. Williams informs me that they were some- 
what alarmed, a few nights before my arrival, by the fol- 
lowing occurrence: Uarambata, taking advantage of the 
absence of his brother, sent a man to dig some tarro be- 
longing to the mission grounds, which coming to the 



LIFE IN FEEJEE^ 373 

knowledge of one of the servants of the house, he went 
immediately to Vaturua, and requested that the tarro 
might be returned. The young chief appeared quite 
ashamed at being caught in so mischief-like an act, and 
sent it back with orders to his man to dig the tarro be- 
longing to a native who had just built a new house not 
far from the mission premises. The owner of the tarro 
bed resisted the order, and would not let the man dig it. 
The man departed without it, threatening to burn his 
house that night. About midnight, Mr. W. and family 
were awakened by the shouting of natives, and the 
crackling of bamboos, which resemble in sound the firing 
of muskets. They arose, and soon perceived the poor 
man's house in flames. The missionaries did not know 
for some time how the affair would end; perhaps their 
own buildings were doomed also. After destroying the 
house, and making as much noise as possible to add to 
the terror of the scene, they departed without farther 
mischief. 

On the return of Peter, so anxious were the old men 
of Vaturua to tell their story, that they did not wait for 
him to land from his canoe, but met him there, where 
they related the occurrence just recorded, and begged 
his permission to go and fight the Televans. Peter sat 
quietly and listened to their narrative, and then made the 
following answer: "You wish for war. I desire peace. 
You wish to fight my brother of Televa. I intend to be 
of a * good mind ' towards him. He is a strong man. 
He made my father run. You may go and fight the 
Christians, while I will return with these, my friends, 
who have come with me, and live with them. My speech 
is ended." The war-loving and Christian-hating Vatu- 
ruans returned to their town; and quiet seems to be re- 
stored for the present. 



374 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Peter, with several of his attendants, called to see me 
the day after my arrival. He appears to be about twenty 
years of age, his countenance is good, and his appear- 
ance preposessing. His mother was a native of Tonga- 
taboo, which accounts for his good looks. 

25. As I was walking along the bank of the river, I 
perceived a canoe about to sail. It contained only one 
old man and woman, and I told them that I would go a 
little way with them. As I stepped upon the frail little 
bark, the old man shouted, "Now I am the king of Fee- 
jee!" The natives, of whom there were several on the 
margin of the river, laughed, and asked where he was 
going. ll Au sa lako ge papalagi" — " I am going to 
the white man's land," he replied. After a pleasant sail, 
I landed where the foot-path from the town terminated, 
and returned to the mission-house, having enjoyed a 
pleasant walk in addition to my excursion on the river. 

In the evening Mr. Williams gave me an account of 
the hurricane experienced by the missionaries in Febru- 
ary last at Nandy. At the commencement of the gale, 
the roof of the house occupied by Rev. Messrs. Wats- 
ford and Ford, with their families, was carried away. 
The rain poured in torrents, and the house tottered in a 
manner that showed it was unsafe for them to remain in 
it any longer; neither was there any shelter from the 
rain. The waves of the angry ocean were rising and 
threatening to engulf them. They must go somewhere. 
As they left the slight elevation on which the house 
stood, they found themselves two feet deep in water. 
They took refuge in a building near, which, being low, 
seemed not to be as much affected by the wind as the 
higher buildings. They were soon driven from this by 
the water, and they had no sooner left it than it fell to 
the ground. Their only hope was to gain the native vil- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 375 

lage, but between them and it was a wide sheet of water, 
formed by the mountain torrents. The ladies and chil- 
dren were obliged to remain exposed to all the violence 
of the gale, while the gentlemen and servants exerted 
every nerve to construct a raft for them to cross the 
water. After this was done, the ladies, with their fright- 
ened babes, were placed thereon, and two servants took 
charge of it while the gentlemen waded on up to their 
necks nearly in water. 

On reaching the central force of the current, the 
natives cried out, " We cannot manage the craft; we 
shall all be swept into the sea (as were several na- 
tives during a former gale). The gentlemen came to 
their aid, and with great difficulty succeeded in forcing 
the raft to stem the current, and they landed at the vil- 
lage. Here they were driven from house to house for 
some time by the rising of the waters. At length they 
reached the only house in the village that was not partly 
under water, — being situated a little on the rise of the 
mountain. The water soon came in here, and they were 
preparing to leave to ascend the mountain as their last 
hope of safety, when a native said, "Stop a moment, I 
think the water has become stationary." Every eye 
was fixed intently on one spot which marked the rise of 
the waters. After a while it became evident that the 
element had begun to recede, and as the tide ebbed 
the house became dry. They now began to think of dry 
clothing, but no well-stored chests are to be found in the 
houses of the natives; not feeling the importance of clo- 
thing themselves, of course they were not prepared to 
supply visitors. Some Tonga cloth was brought forward, 
in which they wrapped themselves and slept during the 
night. On the morrow the storm had abated, and search 
was made among the wrecked articles for clothing; but 



376 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

nothing could be found that was dry except one trunk 
containing the wearing apparel of Mr. Watsford, in 
which the ladies and gentlemen arrayed themselves. I 
will not attempt to describe their appearance. 

The loss to the mission by the wind and flood was 
considerable. Their books were nearly all spoiled. Mr. 
Watsford 's eldest son was almost suffocated by the kind- 
ness of the native who had him in charge. He wrapped 
a blanket so closely around him, to shield him from the 
wind and rain, that he became quite purple. Their 
little girl died in two weeks after. Mrs. W. is still 
suffering severely in consequence of her exposure. 

Mr. Ford and family left in the John Wesley during 
her last visit to the islands; Mr. F. being afflicted with 
a disease in his head that is increased by a residence in 
a tropical climate. 

From the different events recorded in this book re- 
lating to the mission in Feejee, it may be seen that the 
life of a missionary is not one of ease and exemption 
from trials, as some pretend to suppose. There is no 
exaggeration in what I have recorded. They are the 
simple facts, and show that these devoted people of God 
have, in the words of the apostle, suffered by perils of 
the ocean, by perils of the land, and by perils from false 
brethren. And what do they gain? Not worldly honor, 
for the missionary is despised by the world. The next 
world, however, will show what is gained by those who 
faithfully serve their Master here. 

26. As Mr. and Mrs. W., with myself, were enjoying 
an evening walk, a messenger summoned us to return, 
saying that some i( papalagi" gentlemen were at the 
house waiting to see us. We hastened home, and had 
the pleasure of welcoming Messrs. Calvert, Hazlewood 
and Malvern. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 377 

The District Meeting was to be held at Bua, and the 
gentlemen had anticipated the coming of the John Wes- 
ley by a smaller conveyance. 

27. This morning, hearing the most dolorous crying 
in the town, I inquired its cause, and was informed that 
some one was dead. Mrs. W. said that all cried on 
these occasions; some for grief and others from custom. 
A short time since a child died in the town, and a woman 
of Vaturua, hearing of the death, said that she would 
cross the river and join in the cry. She came, but was 
too late; the cry was over. " Never mind, " she said, 
"I will cry here; 5 ' so she sat down in the footpath, 
where she cried as loud and as long as she chose, and 
then returned to her home apparently quite satisfied with 
herself. 

28. The John Wesley arrived, bringing Dr. Lyth, the 
Chairman of the District Meeting. The gentlemen of 
the mission had now all arrived, with the exception of 
Mr. Watsford, who was detained by the continued illness 
of Mrs. W. The children of Mr. Hazlewood go to New 
Zealand in the mission brig when it returns. The eldest 
son of Dr. and Mrs. Lyth, with the two eldest boys of 
Mr. and Mrs. Williams, depart at the same time to at- 
tend school at New Zealand. The missionaries of Fee- 
jee have adopted the wise plan of sending their children 
to be educated among civilized beings as soon as practi- 
cable. I believe this is the only way in which their 
children can be trained for future usefulness. It is next 
to an impossibility to keep children free from the delete- 
rious influences of heathenism; and the sooner they are 
sent away the better it is for them, though hard is the 
parting. This is not one of the least of the trials of the 
missionary. 

29. At an early hour in the morning I started in a 



373 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

canoe, with an old native servant to manage it, and three 
of the little sons of the missionaries for companions, for 
an excursion up the river. We had not proceeded far, 
when I was shown the grave of the late king, which 
looked like a little grassy mound. It was a quiet spot, 
shaded by a large eva tree. An oven, for cooking the 
bodies of dead men, is also to be found under the 
shadow of the same tree. Two weeks since, eight 
men were cooked in that very oven. It appears that a 
party of men belonging to the town where Muchanamu 
was murdered, visited another town with whom they 
were on friendly terms. The visitors occupied the 
"6z«ri," and in the evening after their arrival they were 
joined by the chief of the place, with several of his at- 
tendants. During the conversation that ensued, the 
visitors boasted that they had killed the chief of Bua, 
and one said, " I ate a peace of his heart." The chief 
listened to the statement, and made no comment. The 
next morning men were stationed at the entrance of the 
"imri" with clubs, and as the visitors came forth to en- 
joy " the sweet breath of morn," they were severally 
clubbed. The bodies were sent to Bua, where they were 
cooked and devoured. This is, probably, but the begin- 
ning of murders that will be committed on account of the 
death of Muchanamu. 

The dead are sometimes cooked whole, and after 
being taken from the ovens are painted and ornamented 
as for a feast or war. They are thus taken, in a sitting 
posture, on the shoulders of men and carried to some 
distant town. In passing them, one would not perceive, 
till quite near, that they were dead. 

We sailed on through several miles of level country. 
The tali cocoa-nut trees were very abundant, waving 
their crowned heads in the breeze, and seeming to invite 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 379 

us to admire their graceful beauty. The lemon, the cit- 
ron, the lime, and the fig trees are also to be observed 
among others, imparting a variety to the foliage which 
was truly beautiful. One lemon tree was bending over 
the margin of the river, so completely loaded with its 
golden fruit as to appear just ready to fall into the still 
waters beneath. 

My little companions were complete botanists, having 
a name for every green thing. Having proceeded much 
farther than I was aware before we turned towards 
home, it was nearly noon before we arrived, and Mrs. 
W. was feeling some anxiety on our account. We had 
not, however, been startled by the report of a musket. 
The poisoned arrow had not whizzed past us, we had 
felt no blow from the club, no point of a spear, no bite 
from cannibal teeth, and had passed a M lovo mbokalo" 
without being baked in it. 

30. Sabbath. After divine service in the afternoon, 
several of the gentlemen, with Mrs. W. and myself, 
crossed the river, and repaired to a small settlement 
near its banks, where Mr. Calvert was to preach. We 
found but eight or ten houses whose inhabitants have 
renounced heathenism, and are desirous to be instructed 
in the great truths of the gospel. The buildings were 
scattered about any where in a thick grove of banana 
and cocoa-nut trees. 

Mrs. W. and myself seated ourselves on a native 
drum, under the shade of an eva tree, while Mr. C. ad- 
dressed the assembly. During the sermon, we observed 
the Mbete of Bua approach and enter the nearest hut, 
where he must have listened to the greater part of the 
discourse. At the close of the services, Messrs. C. and 
W. entered the dwelling, and recommended to him the 



380 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

religion of Jesus. He said that the " Zofw " was very 
good, and by and by he would embrace it. 

As we left the place, I thought I had never before 
worshipped in so splendid a sanctuary. The roof was 
of the purest azure, and the walls were elegantly deco- 
rated with verdant ornaments. 

From the settlement we visited the town of Vatarua. 
Peter was absent, but the gentlemen conversed with sev- 
eral respecting the excellency of the true " lotu." With 
the true native courtesy they assented to all that was 
said, and promised to renounce heathenism by and by, 
as usual. The posts which had been erected for the 
great C£ 6im," by the warriors of Muchanamu, were still 
standing as they left them. This " buri" was to have 
been finished on their return, and dedicated with the 
bodies of Mr. W. and his children. But God, in whom 
the missionary trusts, did not suffer this to be. He ar- 
rested the savage, and brought all his plans to nought. 
Mr. W. remarked that he hoped to see the building 
finished, and to preach the gospel in it. 

I stood gazing a long time upon the spot on which this 
terrible scene was to have been enacted, during which 
my imagination was not inactive; but as there are hor- 
rible realities enough to record of this people to satisfy 
the most horror-loving reader, I forbear to record im- 
aginary ones. 

Dr. Lyth preached an excellent sermon in English in 
the evening. 

31. After tea, Mrs. W. being engaged in her ma- 
ternal duties, and the gentlemen all in the chapel, I wan- 
dered out alone, and passing through the town, entered 
a retired path leading to the i( rara," a distance of about 
a quarter of a mile from the town. Engaged in my own 
solitary musings, I wandered on, forgetting that I was 



LIFE IN FEEJEE, 381 

in a heathen land, or that I might meet some who were 
not as good as the Televans. I had gained about half 
the distance to the li rara," when I was aroused and re- 
minded of my lonely situation by hearing some one ap- 
proach. I thought it might be one of the Christian- 
hating cannibals of Vatarua, but my fears were soon 
removed by perceiving the figure of a woman, as she 
appeared, and was then hidden by the intervening foli- 
age. On reaching the spot where I stood, she said that 
her father, seeing me pass on my way alone, sent her to 
accompany me, and see that no harm came to me. 
Would a civilized being have done more? 

Aug. 2. At daylight I was informed that the Zotoff 
was at anchor in Bua Bay, and we soon had the plea- 
sure of welcoming Mr. Wallis and Elijah at the mission 
house. 

The members of the District Meeting had closed their 
business, and were ready to depart, expecting to sail at 
the same time with the Zotoff. 

Mr. Calvert has received an appointment to Bau, and 
will remove to the city as soon as suitable buildings are 
erected. No other changes are expected to take place 
the coming year. Many more missionaries are needed 
in Feejee. The mission has become sadly weakened by 
death and other causes the past year. The bereaved 
Mr. Hazlewood sends his dear babe and the little girls 
to New Zealand in the John Wesley. 

After dinner we took leave of the good company as- 
sembled at Bua, and embarked in the jolly boat to 
join the bark, that there might be no hindrance to our 
sailing at an early hour in the morning. 

My pleasant visit at Bua will be long remembered. I 
found the place like an oasis in the desert, where the 
traveller is refreshed and benefited. Mr. and Mrs. W. 



382 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

showed the most affectionate attention to my comfort, 
health and pleasure during my visit. 

The weather was rather squally, with occasional 
showers of rain when we left Bua. The bark had not 
come into the bay, but was lying at so great a distance 
off, that its hull could not be seen as we entered the bay 
from the river. A cutter belonging to Solavu was at an- 
chor near the J. W., and Elijah proposed that, as the 
sea was rough, and the wind, though fair, was likely to 
increase, Mr. W. and myself should take passage to the 
bark in the cutter, while he and the other Feejeeans 
would go on in the boat, adding that he could not feel 
comfortable, if we remained in the little boat in such 
weather. To this arrangement Mr. W. consented, and 
we removed to the cutter. In the convenient little ves- 
sel we reached the bark, after two hours 5 sailing, with 
the apparent speed of a steamer. 

3. Although the morning seemed to indicate a storm, 
Mr. W. thought that he would venture to cross to Ve- 
telavn. When half of our passage was accomplished, 
the sky became very dark, the wind blew half a gale, 
the heavy thunder rolled, the lightning played, and the 
rain fell in torrents. Our situation is never very envi- 
able on board the bark in a severe thunder storm. 
There is too much powder and cutlery on board to ren- 
der one quite comfortable in such seasons. But there 
were no rocks and reefs directly in our course, and we 
anchored at Malaka, on Vetelavu, about 3 o'clock P. M. 

4. We sailed to Tabua. The chief, with several at- 
tendants, visited the bark, where he received some pres- 
ents, and promised to fish well for the " Turaga ndena." 
On his return to his town great lamentation was heard, 
and sad news awaited his coming. 

His principal wife, with some twenty or thirty of his 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 333 

tribe, mostly women and children, went to an inland 
town to procure a supply of food. The most friendly 
intercourse had been held between the inhabitants of the 
two places for the last four years; therefore, the Tabu- 
ans suspected no evil. The chief of the inland town be- 
longed neither to Ba nor Tabua, but has been in the 
habit, in former years, of joining the strongest party. 
Believing Tabua to be the strongest, for several years 
past he has adhered to them, and helped them against 
their enemies. But the chiefs and people of Ba, having 
been rather successful of late in catching and eating 
the Tabuans, the high-minded and honorable chief has 
become the ally of Ba. The Tabuans knew nothing of 
this change, and went to exchange their fish for the 
products of the country, when their former friends re- 
ceived them with their Jove tokens, called clubs, and 
soon sent the souls of their terrified victims to another 
world. The women and children were all massacred, 
and one man. Two men escaped to tell the tale. 

This changing of parties is a common occurrence 
among independent chiefs. Dumbui, of Naloa, pretends 
great love for Retova. Whales' teeth and love mes- 
sages are continually passing between them, yet Dum- 
bui told Mr. Wallis that if Bau should come to fight Ma- 
thuata, he should fight on the side of Bau. 

5. We anchored at Ba. The inhabitants belonging 
to the town of Vakambua are engaged in preparing the 
slaughtered Tabuans for feasting. It is the custom, 
when natives are murdered in this way, to send the 
bodies immediately to the town of some superior chief, 
who was the principal enemy of the slain. More than 
two thousand of the inhabitants of Feejee have been 
murdered since we have heen among this group. It is 



384 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

beyond our power to estimate the number killed in the 
interior of the large islands and on the smaller ones, as 
we have had no intercourse with them. 

Elijah remarks that the population has rapidly di- 
minished since the introduction of fire-arms. On our 
passage in the little boat to Bua, he observed that when 
he was a lad, the whole coast which we passed by was 
lined with towns, the inhabitants of which had been most- 
ly killed in their wars. 

10. Elijah informs me that it is a custom on this 
coast, and many other parts of Feejee, when one tribe 
visits another, after they have partaken of the food pro- 
vided for them, to gather up every thing that is left, and 
take it away with them. They collect even the smallest 
crumbs, lest they should fall into the hands of strangers, 
who, by rubbing poisonous herbs over them after their 
departure, would cause their death. This was once the 
universal custom, but of late years it is partially abol- 
ished. He farther remarks that his father, who died an 
old man, used to say, during the last years of his life, 
that Feejee had changed much since he was a lad. In 
former days, the intercourse between the different tribes 
was more restricted. When one clan visited another, 
they went well armed and in a most formal manner. 
The women and children never accompanied them, nor 
even were sent, as now, to exchange food. While they 
remained at a strange town, no social intercourse took 
place between the parties, each keeping by themselves, 
approaching only within speaking distance. Tribes or 
clans only visited for the purpose of exchanging prop- 
erty. Their meetings for that purpose were held on an 
open space of ground, which I have already described 
as the "vara." The different parties entered it from 
opposite directions. The riches which they brought 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 385 

were placed in the centre. The natives would then seat 
themselves, when the chiefs would address each other 
through their officers, in the most respectful, formal and 
complimentary manner. After the speeches, dancing 
commenced, sometimes one party performing, and then 
the other, taking care to keep at a good distance from 
each other. At the conclusion of the ceremonies, which 
were ended by feasting the guests, each party retired to 
separate habitations. Tribes inhabiting distant parts of 
the group knew nothing about each other. 

Namosimalua appears to have been the first Feejeean 
traveller of distinction. He seems to be of a restless, 
active disposition. He has visited and conquered the 
inhabitants of many places who were not previously 
known at Bau and the vicinity except by name. For 
many miles of coast on this side of Vetelavu, the inhabi- 
tants acknowledge him as their king. He has depopu- 
lated some small islands, and it is said that he had no 
small share in killing and scattering the inhabitants of 
the now almost desolate coast of Vanualavu, between 
Bua and Mathuata. 

Elijah was the constant companion of his uncle for 
many years, and both rendered themselves notorious by 
their conquests and deep treachery. 

12. Lautoke. The schooner William and David ar- 
rived. The fish which it brought was taken on board, 
and the vessel is discharged, as there is not sufficient 
business on this coast to employ two cutters and a 
schooner. 

13. No farther service being required of Elijah, and 
his presence being very much needed at Vewa, Mr. W. 
parted with him to-day with reluctance, and he sailed for 
his home in the Glide. 

As he left, I said to him, " Will you not return to 
25 



386 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Vewa and accompany us to America?" "It would be 
difficult/ 5 he replied, "for me to visit America. I 
should see so many beautiful women, and so many other 
attractive objects, I should be in danger of forgetting 
the concerns of my soul." 

24. Lautoke. The Glide returned from Vewa, bringing 
us letters from the Consul at Rewa and the missionaries 
at Vewa. We learn from them that the British frigate, 
Havanah, has arrived among the group. We hope that 
Naivu will receive a visit and a lesson before the vessel 
departs. Mr. Calvert writes, after detailing some items 
of news, " There is one thing which I must not forget to 
tell you, though it will make you tremble. While we 
were absent at Bua, Navinde caught fourteen women 
and clubbed one man. News came to Vewa that the 
women were all to be clubbed the next day. Our wives 
could not rest, and procured a canoe and hastened to 
Bau with a whale's tooth to present to Tanoa to spare 
their lives. They were too late to save them all; nine 
had just been clubbed, but the others were saved at the 
intercession of the ladies, who approached the king with 
aching hearts and trembling frames." 

27. In the afternoon the mission brig came in sight 
and anchored near. We soon had the pleasure of re- 
ceiving a visit from Mr. Calvert. We learned from him 
the cause of the late capture of the fourteen women by 
Navinde. It appears that there were visitors at Bau, 
and food was to be prepared for them; therefore, the 
king ordered his butchers (whose especial province it is 
on these occasions) to provide meat for the guests. In 
compliance with this order, Navinde, with several others 
of the Lasakau tribe, repaired to the main, and succeed- 
ed in obtaining fifteen human beings, ten of whom were 
slaughtered and five saved. When the ladies offered 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 387 

the whale's tooth to the king, he said, " Those that are 
dead, are dead; those that are alive, may live." 

Thakombau and Navinde accompanied Mr. C. on 
board the Havanah, where they were lectured on the 
horrible custom of cannibalism. Thakombau said, " Oh, 
in England you have a plenty of beef, therefore you 
have no need to eat each other, but in Feejee we have 
no other meat to give our friends." What a horrible 
feature of cannibalism is thus presented,, to kill and eat 
each other where no enmity exists, merely for the love 
of the flesh of their own kind. When Mr. Calvert af- 
terwards reproved Thakombau for his speech, he said, 
" Our fathers did the same years ago, but we are now 
growing wiser, and if you come to Bau and live, we 
shall be ashamed to eat so many human bodies." It is 
said that neither the king nor Thakombau feed, them- 
selves, on human flesh, yet, as the above shows, they do 
not hesitate to provide it for their friends. If Mr. Cal- 
vert resides on the island, it will be in his power to pre- 
vent many horrible scenes like those just recorded. If 
cannibalism should be abolished from Bau, hundreds of 
lives would be saved annually. If only a canoe load of 
visitors should arrive at the imperial city, the butchers 
must hasten to catch one or more persons with which to 
feast them. None are employed in this business except 
the Lasakaus. Before the Vewa people embraced Chris- 
tianity, they were honored by being the butchers for the 
royal city, and well did they execute their trust. 

Mr. Calvert has been endeavoring to bring about a 
reconciliation between Garenggeo, Bau and Phillips. 
He has advanced so far as to stop, for the present, all 
hostilities between the powers that be. He performed a 
journey to the mountains, and returned accompanied by 
Garenggeo, and the brothers met. Garenggeo came 



388 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

unattended, save by the missionary, while the boastful, 
cowardly Phillips feared to meet his brother unaccom- 
panied by a host of his people. It appears that the Con- 
sul had been engaged in efforts to bring the brothers 
into favor with each other, and in conjunction with Phil- 
lips had sent for Garenggeo to come to Nukulau, hold a 
meeting at the palace of the Consul, and become friends. 
But Garenggeo, knowing by sad experience that no faith 
could be put in his treacherous brother, had feared to 
come. 

When the brothers, through the influence of Mr. Cal- 
vert, met, Phillips, surrounded by his people, paced to 
and fro before Garenggeo, saying, " Why did you not 
come when I sent for you?" " Because I was afraid ; 
I could not trust your assurances of friendship, as you 
are not a true man; you say one thing and mean ano- 
ther," replied Garenggeo. " Why did you come then 
with the missionary?" he asked. "Because he is true. 
He told me that I should be safe, and I could trust him," 
he replied. After some more catechising, on the part of 
Phillips, he said, "Yes, I am strong. I conquer my 
enemies. I do not have to run. I conquered Rewa." 
"You are weak were it not for the strength of Bau. 
Bau conquered Rewa, but it was through you that our 
brother was murdered," returned Garenggeo. After 
some more conversation, of which the above is only a 
specimen, Phillips, who had not been \ery much pleased 
with Mr. C.'s interference and presence, desired all the 
white people to go out and leave him with his brother. 
Mr. Calvert said, " If we go out, your people must go with 
us. Your brother has no one to protect him, and you 
must not have all these people around you." This com- 
mand was not in accordance with the desires of the heroic 
cannibal, but he had no alternative, and reluctantly con- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE 389 

sented. After the departure of the spectators, the bro- 
thers talked, cried, kissed each other, and exchanged 
their " masis," and loved each other mightily for some 
time, and the result is that Garenggeo has returned to 
the mountains and Phillips to Nuque, both desirous of 
living on friendly terms, yet neither able to trust the 
other. I think it probable that each will reside where 
he is, until the death of one, when the other can safely 
reign as king of Rewa. 

The Havanah sailed to Ovalau, where the trees and 
bushes were most furiously attacked by those on board, 
to show the natives the power of their fire-arms. We 
do not learn that any of the places rendered memorable 
by the massacre of white men, are to be visited or pun- 
ished. Experience shows that moral suasion does not 
always avail in Feejee. The lesson given to the inhabi- 
tants of Malolo has been most salutary and lasting. 
There is no place in the group where white people can 
visit with more safety, and receive kinder treatment. 
Mr. Calvert returned to the J. W. in the evening. 

28. The J. W. sailed at sunrise for Rotumah. 

I accepted the invitation of Mr. Calvert, yesterday, to 
visit Lautoke, where we enjoyed the luxury of a walk. 
I need the exercise of walking, as my health suffers from 
my long residence in so confined a space as the cabin 
and quarter deck of the bark. Mr. C. urges my going 
to Vewa; but I have decided, if my health does not im- 
prove when we return to the other coast, to accept of the 
kind invitation of Mr. and Mrs. Williams, and remain 
awhile with them at Televa, as they are the most lonely, 
and I can communicate with Mr. W. oftener, by writing, 
from Bua. 



390 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 



CHAPTER XXI. 



The angry chief — Popery in Feejee — Conspiracy — A Letter — Arrival at 
Bau — Dirge — Our Final Departure from Feejee — -The Uncas — Arrival 
at Manilla — Departure — Small-pox on board — Deaths — St. Helena — 
Home. 



Aug. 29. The Glide, in charge of Mr. Lovett, sailed 
on the 26th of this month for Mathuata, for the purpose 
of establishing houses and preparing for our return to 
that coast. 

Last evening one of our hostages, belonging to the 
tribe of Nasurawalla, came into the cabin in great agi- 
tation to ask liberty to go on shore. While he was speak- 
ing, a sailor came and said that he had just caught him 
stealing a fine new musket. He was just about to jump 
overboard with the musket, to swim to the shore, when 
he was observed, and his course arrested. He was ex- 
ceedingly alarmed, but Mr. W. told him that he would 
receive no other punishment than that awarded by his 
chief. Nasurawalla came on board to-day and said that 
he was very angry with Ndausamu for stealing the mus- 
ket, and he had come to take him into his canoe, where 
he should kill and then throw him into the sea. Mr. W. 
smiled, and informed him that the thief was not Ndausa- 
mu, but Nga. The chief was silent for a moment, and 
then said, " I am greatly ashamed. I thought it was 
Ndausamu, who is a ' kaise ; ' I could punish him, but 
Nga is a chief, and my sister's child." No more was 
said about clubbing, casting into the sea, or punishment 
of any kind. He would not have punished the "kaise," 
as he said, but would pretend that such was his inten- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 391 

tention, that Mr. W. might present a whale's tooth to 
spare his life. 

Sept. 5. Namula. The second chief of this place, 
and ten of his people, have renounced heathenism, but 
there is no one to instruct them in the precepts of the 
true gospel; and without instruction they are little better 
than before. 

We have been visited by some of the females of this 
place, none of whom can boast of more personal beauty 
than our Phebe. It is said that the females of this coast 
engage in more masculine employments than those of 
many other parts of the group, — that they assist in culti- 
vating the lands, in building the houses, and sometimes 
follow the warriors to collect the slain of the enemy, and 
afterwards cook them. They wear grass " lekus," braid 
no cinnet, plat no mats, and manufacture no cloth, and, 
in short, appear far behind the other portions of Feejee 
that we have visited, in their arts and sciences. 

12. Veudongo. We learn that the Tabuans are an- 
gry because Elijah has prevented the warriors of Bau 
from coming to fight or to assist them against their ene- 
mies. They have left fishing, and will sell no food to 
the Vewa man who has charge of the " beech de mer " 
house. The truth is, Elijah asked the chiefs of Bau to 
defer their assistance till Mr. W. had left this coast, as 
it would interrupt his fishing. 

The Glide arrived yesterday from Mathuata, and 
brings word that such is the anger of its king towards 
Mr. W., that he will have nothing more to do with him. 
He is angry because he deems the present that was 
given to Natemba, of Tavea, more valuable than the one 
which he received. Some muskets, whale's teeth and 
gunpowder, will set all right again on our return. The 
Glide sails for the same place to-day. 



392 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

13. Nasurawalla declines fishing any more, as he is 
about to engage in a war with Nandy, on this coast. 
He states that his anger is great towards the people of 
that place; that at one time they made peace, and he 
gave them riches, and in three days afterwards tbey 
murdered four of his men, and now he accepts of no 
" soro," but will burn their towns and kill as many as 
possible. 

18. Ba. A Tonga teacher has been stationed at this 
place for a year past. He is my old friend Wesley. 
Learning that we are about leaving, he brought a pig 
and a pair of ducks to present to Mr. W., and some 
hen's eggs and a valuable shell, from his wife to me. I 
admire the manner in which a present is offered in Fee- 
jee. The simple words are uttered, " This is my love 
to you." Can civilization offer any thing prettier? 

19. Yanganga. We have again crossed the waters 
which divide the two large islands. As my health is im- 
proving, I have given up the idea of visiting Bua for the 
present. 

20. Raverave. The boat was sent ashore on our ar- 
rival with an invitation for the angry chief to visit us. 
He came, but said nothing for a long time. Mr. W. was 
full of love towards him, &c, and after awhile he soften- 
ed him enough to say yes and no a few times. I pre- 
sented him with a white muslin head-dress, and told him 
that I had commenced embroidering a girdle for him, 
but if his anger continued, I would finish it and present 
it to Thakombau. 

When I first visited Mathuata, I presented Retova 
with an embroidered girdle, which pleased his fancy 
much. He took it with him to Bau, where it was beg- 
ged from him. He had many times requested we to 
work him another; but I told him that he would not keep. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 393 

it, and I could not present that kind of work where it 
was esteemed so lightly. He would say that none but 
the chiefs of Bau would beg such an article, and if I 
would give him another they should never see it. Ac- 
cordingly, when 1 heard of his ar^ger I thought I might 
contribute towards restoring his good humor, and com- 
menced the ornament. He desired to see it at once, 
and, after placing it in every possible point of view, said 
it would be far more beautiful than the first, and that no 
chief of Bau must have it. It was evening when he 
came off, and he soon returned to the town, after say- 
ing he would come in the morning and receive his 
presents. 

21. Retova came off in good humor, proposed that 
the bark should go to Namuka, where he would soon join 
it, and that " beech de mer " houses should be erected at 
Mali, Nduri, Ndrua-ndrua and Yanganga, and he would 
see that Mr. W. obtained two hundred bags of fish in 
two moons. He received his presents, and left while the 
anchor, which is not allowed to rest long in any one 
place, was raised, and we departed. 

23. Nduri. The Caroline arrived alongside from 
Vewa. By this conveyance we received letters from our 
friends, and learn that owing to the continued failure of 
Mrs. Watsford's health, they will probably leave their 
station and go to New Zealand the present year. If so, 
one of the other missionaries must take the place of Mr. 
Watsford, Lakemba being a most important station, 
rendered more so perhaps on account of two Jesuit 
priests, who came to Feejee several years since, and 
took up their residence near the Protestants. 

It appears that the Jesuits have sadly degenerated in 
these latter days. They were formerly the pioneers, 
penetrating to the most distant parts of the globe, and 



394 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

enduring almost every kind of misery, braving death in 
its most terrific forms, and many of them falling martyrs 
to their zeal. Now, however, they wait for the "Pro- 
testant heretics " to pave their way. Such has been the 
case at the Sandwich, Friendly, Society, and Feejeean 
groups of islands. There are thousands of islands in the 
Pacific where no missionary foot has ever been placed. 
Why do not the Catholics occupy some of those waste 
places? Perhaps it is not permitted by Divine Provi- 
dence. Had these priests of Feejee settled on the Ba, 
or Mathuata coasts, where there are many who are 
strongly desirous that a missionary should live among 
them, and are all ready to renounce heathenism, no 
doubt they would have made many proselytes; whereas, 
by locating themselves in the immediate vicinity of the 
Protestants, who had gained a footing and the confidence 
of the chiefs of the land, they are most effectively hin- 
dered from propagating their pernicious tenets. 

The following account of the introduction of Popery 
into Feejee was kindly furnished me by Dr. Lyth: "It 
was in the month of August, 1844, that the first attempt 
was made to establish a Roman Catholic mission in Fee- 
jee. A bishop, accompanied by two priests, landed in 
Lakemba. There were already Wesleyan missionaries 
residing on different islands of the group, and Lakemba 
was one of our oldest stations. So satisfied were the 
chiefs with their Protestant missionaries, that the priests 
received but a cold reception. The bishop first tried to 
prevail upon Fenau, the Tonguese chief, to embrace 
Popery, and receive the priests' offering as an induce- 
ment to make him king of Vavau, (one of the Friendly- 
Islands,) in the place of king George. The chief abso- 
lutely refused. It would seem that their object was to 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 395 

gain, through Fenau, a footing at Vavau, having failed 
with king George. 

Not succeeding with the Tonguese residents, they next 
turned their attention to the Feejeeans, the proper in- 
habitants of the land. They applied to Tuinayau, the 
principal chief of Lakemba and the windward group. 
He said that he had already received his priests, (refer- 
ring to us,) and wanted no others. They neglected no 
argument to prove that their religion was the only true 
one, and that we were false teachers, nay, missionaries 
of the devil. But all was of no avail. The chief plainly 
told them that they were not wanted in Lakemba, and 
positively objected to their remaining. The bishop then 
proposed that they should remain in Lakemba till an op- 
portunity should offer for them to go to Somosomo, which 
is another of the Protestant stations. To this, neither 
Tuinayau nor Fenau would consent. Finding that neither 
threats nor promises would influence the chiefs in their fa- 
vor, they fixed upon another expedient, by which they ulti- 
mately succeeded in palming the two priests on Lakemba. 
They left Lakemba, and on their way left the two priests 
on the island of Namuku. The bishop appears to have 
had as little regard to the feelings of the two c Holy 
Fathers ' as to the natives in this step. The elder of 
the two remonstrated w 7 ith the bishop on thus throwing 
them on the mercy of the natives; but he only replied 
by asking if they intended to disobey orders, adding, 
that if they did, they must take off their gowns. They, 
therefore, submitted, and the bishop left them so scantily 
supplied that, from the first, they depended entirely on 
the natives for their food. Namuka being but a short 
distance from Lakemba, it was not long before the ' Holy 
Fathers ' returned. Having two or three Tonga con- 
verts that came with them, and a French servant, they 



396 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

took possession of the house of a Tonguese, and com- 
menced their worship and teaching at once, in spite of 
all that had been said against it by the chiefs. They de- 
clared, however, that as soon as a canoe should go to 
Somosomo they would proceed to their destination. The 
chief offered them a canoe at once, and told them to go. 
Finding that they could not cheat the chiefs with lying 
promises, they told them plainly that it was their inten- 
tion to remain, that they might kill them if they chose, 
but that they would remain. The chief, finding his re- 
monstrance vain, at last submitted to that obstinacy he 
could not remove. He was doubtless influenced, too, by 
the fear of French frigates, which the c Holy Fathers ' 
threatened should come and punish them if they opposed 
the true religion. 

The priests commenced their instructions by saying, 
'Where are these missionaries from?' Nobody knows 
them. England is a poor little place, whereas, France 
is a great country that supplies England with beef, &c. 

They exhibited their well known picture representing 
their church as a large, flourishing tree, and the several 
Protestant churches as dried, withered branches, broken 
off, and dropping into the burning gulf beneath. The 
shrewd heathen said, ■ If your country is so large and 
rich, how is it that you are forced upon us without food, 
or any riches to buy it? We do not know you. We 
know the English. They do not come among us like 
6 kaises,' but bring riches and pay for their food. Your 
picture is a false one.' The laugh became so strong 
against them, that it was withdrawn, and has not been 
publicly exhibited since. 

During the five years that they have resided here, 
they have been joined by some few of the Tonguese and 
Feejeeans; but of late the priests are teaching them to 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 397 

reverence the Sabbath. This causes dissatisfaction 
among their followers, who say that they might as well 
join the English ' lotu ' if they are required to keep the 
Sabbath." 

The bishop committed an oversight in leaving his 
priests so destitute. A Feejeean hates poverty, and 
charity is as cold here as in civilized lands. The ' Holy 
Fathers ' were near starving in several instances. For 
months they could procure no food, except the mama 
apple. The missionaries, hearing of their destitution, 
sent them a basket of food, which they received with ap- 
parent thankfulness; but on the return of the servant 
who carried it, the basket was found with all its contents 
on the door steps. It was not long, however, before 
hunger compelled them to accept food from the ' English 
heretics.' They have been threatening for some time 
past to bury an image of the Virgin Mary upon the 
grounds of the missionaries, which they assert will drive 
them away. Of course, they will take all the merit of 
driving Mr. W. and family from the station. 

Since the first year, a French vessel has visited La- 
kemba occasionally, and, learning their error respecting 
leaving their priests without means of subsistence, re- 
paired it by seasonable supplies. 

The priests have learned the fact, that Tuinayau is 
exceedingly fond of yanggona, (the native grog,) and 
they have sent to Tonga for a large supply, thus evincing 
their intention of making a spiritual convert of him, if 
possible. In my opinion, Tuinayau would have been a 
Christian years ago, could his appetite for yanggona 
have been subdued, and his supplies have been withheld. 
He is an old man, and his mind is kept in a continual 
stupor by this indulgence, and when he is not supplied, 
he is attacked with what strongly resembles the ' deli- 



393 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

rium tremens,' I should judge, from a scene once witness- 
ed by Mrs. Calvert, which she described to me. 

26. Namuka. We have once more reached this far- 
off region, where all communication with the world is 
ended for the present, so I must give up the pleasure of 
receiving the kind and interesting epistles from Vewa 
and Bua. My books and newspapers must be re-perused. 
I expect to find nothing of interest to record in my jour- 
nal; therefore, must make up my mind to enjoy a tame 
existence in this untamed country. 

We do not go to Vesongo, as before, but have anchor- 
ed off the little island of Namandrua. 

30. The principal chief of Vesongo and his affection- 
ate wife have departed this life since our last voyage to 
this place. Masella was sick for some little time, and 
then the strangling cord put an end to his existence at 
his own request. His wife, desiring to accompany him, 
was also strangled. 

Otima gave me an account of the affair, as one would 
relate an amusing incident, although he always appeared 
very fond of his parents while living. A chief, called 
Ndovo appears to have assumed the authority of the de- 
ceased chief. 

Oct. 8. Two men started, a few days since, to go a 
little distance up the coast and beg a canoe. On their 
return they were attacked by an enemy, and one was 
killed. One of the murderers was a brother of one of 
the two in the other canoe. As the club was raised to 
despatch him, the brother leaped upon the canoe, ex- 
claiming, " He is my brother. You must not kill him." 
The other still held the club raised, and declared that he 
would strike. " Then kill me first," replied the affec- 
tionate brother, as he firmly clasped his new-found rela- 
tive in his embrace. The man was saved, and returned 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 399 

to Vesongo in the canoe which he had begged. When 
the affair was related to Ndovo, he said, ss Why did you 
not bring the body of the slain, that I might eat him? 5 ' 

10. The political state of this part of Feejee is not, I 
think, to be understood by common minds. Ndovo is 
chief of Vesongo, and of a place called Raverave, be- 
tween here and Naivu, up the coast. That people are at 
enmity with these natives of Vesongo, and yet both tribes 
are ruled by one chief. I have made many inquiries, 
but can learn nothing definite upon the subject. 

The Raverave people committed the murder recorded 
above. We learn that Ndovo was angry with the mur- 
dered man, on account of his formerly running away 
and joining an enemy. The man had, however, returned 
to his lawful chief, " soroed," and been pardoned. 

" Time by moments steals away, 
First the hour and then the day ; 
Small the daily loss appears, 
Yet it soon amounts to years. 
Thus another year has flown, 
And is now no more our own 
(Though it brought or promised good) 
Than the years before the flood." 

12. It is one year to-day since we sailed from our 
native land. How vividly are the scenes of that day 
brought back to mv remembrance! We had been invi- 
ted to attend the marriage ceremony of a dear friend, 
but instead of engaging in the festivities of so happy an 
event, it was our lot to part with our friends. 

Retova has arrived with three canoes and men to fish 
ls beech de mer." Several Geer canoes have arrived for 
the same purpose, and the prospect seems to be bright- 
ening. 



400 LIFE IN FEEJEE, 

16. Retova has left for Mathuata, on account of the 
death of a child. An express came for him this morning. 
We inquired of what disease the child died, and were 
told that the god had killed it, being angry because the 
chief came to Namuka. The chief was on shore when 
the canoe arrived. On being sent for, he appeared very 
sad, and said that if he had remained at Raverave, the 
child would not have died. 

20. Retova returned, after having appeased the an- 
gry god with a feast and a whale's tooth. He remained 
on shore last night at Ndrua-ndrua, but when he came 
on board this morning, he said that fear had prevented 
him from sleeping. 

Namuka is the name of a district of this region, com- 
prising a considerable extent of land, with several towns 
and tribes. Muta is situated but a little distance to the 
right of Ndrua-ndrua, where the son of the late Tui 
Mathuata resides, while Korovaka-turaga resides at 
Naivu, a few miles on the left of the island. This 
knowledge of the proximity of Retova's enemies effect- 
ually prevented him from enjoying the rest he so much 
needed. 

The natives who have assembled at Ndrua-ndrua are 
very much afraid that their enemies will burn the " beech 
de mer " house. Three Muta canoes passed this place 
for Naivu while Retova was absent. One came along 
side the bark, and its crew of four men came on board. 
Ndova was here at the time, and conversed with them in 
the most friendly manner. Several of the Vesongo ca- 
noes were on the reefs at the time, yet no collision took 
place between them. 

The Vesongans, however, kept an extra watch for 
several nights on shore, till they supposed their enemies 
had returned to Muta. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 401 

28. We were amused yesterday with a little instance 
of native cunning. Several came to the bark and said 
it was difficult for them to fish, as they had but little 
food. Mr. W., knowing this to be true, sent the jolly 
boat to the main, and procured a load of bread-fruit and 
bananas. When the boat returned, Mr. W. wrote a 
note to Derby, at the house on shore, directing him to 
select a part for his own use, and give the remainder to 
the chief Ndrui, to divide among the natives. The note 
was given to Ndrui, with verbal instructions to the same 
effect. Accordingly, he took charge of the food and 
note, and repaired to the shore, where he divided the 
whole of the food among the natives, who offered a part 
of it to Derby for sale. After he had bought and paid 
for it, the note was delivered, thus showing that they in- 
tended to make the most of their present. 

29, Retova is again summoned to Raverave, as visit- 
ors have arrived from the royal city who require his 
presence. It is said that Elijah is one of the visitors; if 
so, we shall probably see him here in a few days. 

Nov. 3. In the morning, a messenger came off from 
Ndrua-ndrua to say that the brother of the chief Ndovo 
had been killed in battle, and all the chiefs had gone to 
Vesongo to bury him. As soon as the body was brought 
to the town, two of his wives were strangled with all 
possible speed, lest they should not be able to overtake 
the soul of their departed husband in time. 

About noon the cry was raised on deck that the 
cc beech de mer" house was on fire. In ten minutes it 
was destroyed, with five hundred dollars worth of "beech 
de mer " in it. Mr. Wallis had been fearing and expect- 
ing this disaster, and had the fish brought to the vessel 
to finish the drying, upon the decks as soon as was prac- 
ticable, but twenty canoes had brought a large quantity, 
26 



402 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

and some of it was quite unfit to bring off. He had seen 
the carelessness of those who had charge of the house, 
and talked to them about it, but it was in vain. 

While the house was burning the Caroline arrived 
from Male and Nduri, bringing eleven bags of fish, and 
reporting that the two houses they were tending were 
doing well. At eight o'clock, P. M., the Glide arrived 
from the houses at Naloa and Yanganga with seventeen 
bags offish. Elijah came in the Glide, and brought let- 
ters from the Consul, our friends at Vewa and Bua, and 
one from Thakombau, or Tui Vete, king of Feejee, as 
he is now called. The purport of the king's letter is to 
inform Mr. W. that he had sent a special messenger, in 
company with Elijah from Bau to Retova, Natemba and 
Dumbui, to desire them to fish well for Mr. W., that his 
vessel might be filled. To this message from Bau, we 
are chiefly indebted for the fish received by the Glide, as 
these houses did but little before the visit of Elijah and 
the Bau chief. They brought two canoes as a present 
to Retova. Elijah says, that after they had delivered 
their message to Retova, he told them to go away as 
quickly as possible, as he wished to return and assist 
Mr. W. in collecting his cargo. 

The English sloop of war Daphne has visited the 
group, but I do not learn that any notice is taken of the 
frequent massacres that have occurred among the 
islands. Mr. Calvert, Thakombau and Elijah went to 
Rewa in the vessel for the purpose of meeting Phillips 
and Garenggeo, but it appears that they were obliged to 
leave matters as they were. Thakombau desired Ga- 
renggo to go to Bau. This he refused to do, saying that 
he had nothing to do with Bau; that he was willing to 
make peace with his brother, who might go to Rewa and 
be its king. Thakombau said if he would not go to Bau, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 403 

no more could be done about it. Garenggo is well aware 
of the treachery of his countrymen, and fears to trust 
himself in Bau. He has not forgotten, probably, the fate 
of Nalela, the Lasakau chief, nor how, after Rewa was 
destroyed, his brother gave out word that all who had 
joined with Rewa during the war, should be pardoned, if 
they would " soro " to him, and that when hundreds 
came to "soro," he had them all murdered, and sent 
their bodies to Bau. It was said as many were kill- 
ed in that way as when Rewa was burned. It is not sur- 
prising that, knowing all this, he has no confidence in 
their protestations, and prefers to remain in his mountain 
home. 

4. The Glide sailed this morning for Naloa, Tavea, 
&,c. Elijah returned in it. 

We learn that Mr. and Mrs. Watsford have left their 
station for Auckland, and Dr. Lyth and family have re- 
moved to Lakernba; therefore, Bau can have no mission- 
ary for the present. 

Thakombau says, that sometimes he feels very good 
in his mind, and means to " loiu " at once; then his mind 
changes, and then he is " vaka develo " (like a devil) 
again. On his return from Rewa, he was informed that 
a conspiracy was afloat to kill him. It is a custom 
among the great ones of Feejee to send food to their re- 
latives. In accordance with this usage, Bau was in the 
habit of sending food to Lasakau, as a compliment to the 
Marama of Bau, who was the wife of Navinde. While 
Thakombau was at Rewa, Navinde visited the island of 
Kandavu. During his absence, his wife went to her 
father, the old king, and desired him to send no more 
food to Lasakau, as her husband and several others were 
gutting up a "vari" to kill her brother. One of the 
principal conspirators is Navinde 's half-brother. His 



404 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

father was the rebel chief whose tongue was devoured 
by Tanoa, on his restoration to Bau, while his victim sat 
by and witnessed the horrible repast. Ratu-ndamu, the 
son, was a little boy when this occurred, but he has pro- 
bably remembered the fact; nor will he forget it until he 
has had vengeance upon some of the family belonging to 
the king. Navinde has retired to the island of Ngau, 
and the other conspirators have fled to different places. 
Navinde has been rising (in his own estimation) since his 
marriage with the daughter of the king, and he has sup- 
posed, probably, that Thakombau is the only obstacle in 
the way of his becoming the greatest man in the king- 
dom. 

19. Arrived and anchored at Nai Thombo-thombo on 
our way to Bua. Being about fourteen miles distant 
from Bua, I started in the jolly boat, about six o'clock in 
the evening, for that place. The crew consisted of four 
Vewa men to row the boat, and old Koru, of the same 
place, to act as guide and protector. I thought that we 
should have a bright moon to light us on our way, but in 
this I was disappointed, as she chose to wear a thick veil 
of grey, and thus deprive me of the pleasure of viewing 
the coast and river scenery by moonlight. After a dull 
passage of five hours, we arrived in safety at the mission 
station. Messrs. Williams and Hazlewood met me at 
the landing. I found Mrs. W. quite ill of influenza. 

I learned that the heathen party at Bua had been very 
quiet since my former visit. The young chief is ill of 
consumption. 

The yam season had commenced, and before taking 
their yams from the ground, it is usual to sacrifice a 
number of human beings. Five persons have been taken 
in this vicinity, and sent to as many different towns. As 
Mrs. Williams was standing on the piazza, a few days 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 405 

since, she observed a party of the heathen on the oppo- 
site bank of the river cutting up a human body, and pre- 
paring it for the oven; the head and entrails were soon 
after seen floating down the river. Mr. Williams had 
them buried. 

Mr. Hazlewood related the following horrible occur- 
rence which took place at Nandy: " A native woman 
who had c lotued ' was one day returning to her dwelling 
from a class meeting which she had been attending, 
when her son met her, and at once cleft her skull. He 
was immediately surrounded by the Christians and beaten 
to within an inch of his life, and then suffered to crawl 
away as best he could. He was angry with his mother, 
because she was not strangled on the death of her hus- 
band, which had happened a short time before." 

20. The ZotofF arrived at noon, and Mr. W. came 
ashore, when, after remaining a short time, we once 
more took leave of our kind friends, and departed, never 
expecting to see them again on the shores of time. 

25. We anchored at Motureke. On Monday, the 
26th, there being no prospect of a breeze to waft our 
bark to Bau on that day, I took passage in one of the 
small boats for Vewa. The rowers were lazy, and our 
passage was rather long. Koru was my protector, as 
before. Two of the oarsmen were heathen, and were 
very earnest in coaxing the god of the wind to raise a 
breeze, promising to feed him with puddings and sugar- 
cane if he would save them their labor at the oars. One 
hinted that if I would give each of them a piece of cloth, 
their god would be propitious. I told them that, as it 
was not fashionable for the Feejeean gods to wear cloth, 
I thought they would be quite satisfied with what had 
been promised. 



406 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

On our arrival at Vewa, I found the family of Mr. 
Calvert all in good health. 

27. Several of the towns on the main land are en- 
gaged in hostilities. The war drum is beating, and we 
have seen the smoke of two burning towns. One or both 
belonged to Navinde, who is still at Ngau. No one ap- 
pears to know whether he is guilty of laying a plan to 
kill Thakombau or not. It is reported that Navinde had 
engaged to kill Thakombau, and a chief called Vunivalu, 
with his son Karoe Sigalavu, was to kill Garenggeo; and 
another chief, called Tanoa, was to kill his father, the 
king of Naitasere. The truth, however, has not been 
ascertained, except in the case of Phillips. The conspir- 
ators against his life have fled to the mountains. Tha- 
kombau has sent for them to be killed where they are, or 
for them to be returned to Phillips; but the mountaineers 
refuse to do either. 

There is a town situated not far from Bau called 
Buretu. It formerly belonged to Bau, but revolted and 
joined Garenggeo, the exiled chief. Bau has decreed its 
destruction, which makes the difference now between Bau 
and Garenggeo. When the two chiefs met on board the 
English man-of-war Daphne, for the purpose of settling 
their difficulties, Garenggeo stipulated that Buretu should 
be saved. Thakombau refused, and thus ended the affair 
for the present. 

Mr. Williams, the American commercial agent for 
Feejee, has left the dominions of Phillips, and lives on 
the island of Motureke. 

29. A letter, of which the following is a copy, was 
sent to Thakombau from Her Britannic Majesty's ship 
Daphne, addressed to Tui Vete, (Thakombau,) king of 
Feejee: 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 407 

Her Britannic Majesty 9 s ship Daphne, ') 
At sea, Oct. 10, 1849. ) 

Tui Vete, 

Being now about to leave the Feejee Islands, I am led 
by an earnest desire for their welfare, and also by a sin- 
cere esteem for yourself, to address a few lines to you in 
the language of friendship. 

These beautiful islands have been, until now, the 
scene of the grossest and most degrading impostures 
that have ever disgraced mankind, leading in their re- 
sults to practices in which treachery and murder are 
stepping stones to the gratification of the vilest passions 
and appetites. 

No people ever did, nor ever will become great or 
honorable while sunk in so profound a depth of ignorance 
and crime; and it is because I know you to be far too in- 
telligent to be deceived by the flimsy superstitions which 
surround you, that I entreat you, for the good of your 
country, to use your powerful influence in stopping those 
abominable cruelties which disgrace it, and which can- 
not be thought of without disgust by any enlightened 
mind. I am confident that you cannot contemplate the 
kidnapping of unoffending women and children to supply 
a cannibal feast, nor the murder of a wife on the death 
of her husband, without shame for the cowardice of the 
former, and for the folly of the latter, as well as for the 
cruelty of both. 

Depend upon it, such practices cannGt last; and great 
will be the honor acquired by that chief who has the 
courage to oppose them. There is one man, and only 
one, who can effectually do this; that man is yourself. I 
would say to you, therefore, do not leave for another the 
opportunity which has fallen to your lot, of conferring so 
great a blessing upon your country. Let it be seen that 



408 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

cowardice and cruelty are no longer to be forced upon 
your people by a gross and ridiculous superstition. 

They are an industrious and intelligent people; let 
them be protected and encouraged, and they will become 
great and prosperous. How much greater will be the 
ruler of such a people! 

These few words have been written in the spirit of 
friendship, and are intended to promote the real welfare 
of your country, and your own true dignity and honor; 
therefore, I trust that you will give them your serious 
attention. 

I will conclude with a request, which I make because 
I think it will, in a very great degree, forward those ob- 
jects. 

We must expect that in a short time your father will 
be numbered with the dead. According to a horrible 
practice, to which I have alluded, many women of his 
household would be murdered in cold blood on this 
melancholy occasion. Let me ask, as a personal favor, 
that you will interpose your authority to save these poor 
women from becoming the victims of such atrocious su- 
perstition. I beg their lives at your hands, and I 
earnestly hope that your compliance with my request 
will be one step towards the happiness of Feejee. 

That Feejee may be blessed, and that you may be 
truly great, is the sincere wish of your true friend, 

E. G. Fan shaw, Captain, 

Dec. 2. In the afternoon Mrs. Calvert and the chil- 
dren and servants, with myself, embarked in a double 
canoe, intending to call at the bark and then proceed to 
Bau. On arriving at the bark, we found Tui Vete 
on board, and so many other Feejeean visitors that we 
concluded to keep on our way to the city. The king, 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 409 

hearing of our intention, started at once and reached 
Bau before us. He passed our canoe in one of a smaller 
size, and was seated in a large arm chair, which had 
been lashed to the canoe. When we first arrived in 
Feejee, he would have ridiculed the idea of a Feejeean 
sitting in an arm chair on a canoe ; but he is greatly 
changed since my first acquaintance with him. He ap- 
pears fond of many of the comforts of civilized life. 

Our stay at Bau was very short, as the clouds looked 
black and we feared a squall of wind before our return 
to Vewa. 

The large house, formerly occupied by Thakombau, 
was blown down during one of the gales, and we found 
him living in a smaller one which had been erected on 
the same spot. Samonunu showed us the beginning of 
a stone house, but when it would be finished was more 
than she could tell. 

We called on the old king, Tanoa, and found him sur- 
rounded by old men, who were drinking yanggona. I 
found the king much more feeble than when I last saw 
him. He still retains a fondness for ornamenting his 
head. He wore a white " sala," with several yards of 
pink ribbon wound about it. The ribbon had been at- 
tached to the whales' teeth that were presented to him 
by the ladies, when they begged for the lives of the vic- 
tims of the cannibal feast before recorded. He is very 
deaf, but his general health is good. He presented me 
a native mat, and we departed for Vewa. 

3. Thakombau spent the day at Vewa. He appears 
very fond of Mr. Calvert and family, frequently coming 
to pass a day with them, and holding long and sensible 
conversations with Mr. Calvert. 

5. Samonunu, with several of her attendants, visited 
us. She brought some mats and presented them to me. 



410 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Many of raj Vewa friends have also presented bread- 
fruit, mats, baskets and other articles. 

7. As Mrs. Calvert and myself were standing on the 
piazza, a canoe, filled with natives, came in shore sing- 
ing the following dirge, on the death of our much la- 
mented Mr. Hunt. 

Mi Make ho Misisi Uniti. 

" Mei Misisi Uniti, 

Ka sega ni kana, 

E gunuva na una wai katakata 

Ai sulu loaloa ka dolava, 

Ka culu vata kei na vunai sala 

Ai vakaruru toka ni matana. E 

A vu ni koha, 

Misi Uniti sa mate toka ; 

A kai Vewa era sa loloma ; 

A siga lotu levu me ra laki cola. 

Digitaki nai sulu loaloa, 

Nai sula ni vakarokaroko, 

I vale ni soro sa mai bulu toka — 

Ko mata vakaloloma. E 

Misi Uniti so mate toka 
Ko Jose fa ka dau loloma 
Josuia ko mai lako — e 
A vale i Kupa me sa cuvu toka : 
Kato balavu ko laki vasota ; 
Era vakota ai me ra sa cola — 
I na vale — kau me sa tau toka 
Duti laki nai sula loaloa — 

Ai coco toka ni kato. E 

Misi Uniti me lave ki loma 
E vei ko matai me sogata, 
Tukilaki nai vako me ra toka. E 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 411 

(translation.) 

" Mrs. Hunt has not eaten, 

She only drinks warm water; 

The black cloth is opened ; 

Black is stitched to her bonnet, 

And serves as a covering for her face. A 

Mr. Hunt is dead ; 

The people of Vewa mourn ; 

The preaching day came, — 

They wear black dresses,- — 

Dresses of reverence. 

He is carried to the chapel ; 

His face was lovely. A 

Mr. Hunt is dead ; 

Joseph loved him ; 

Joshua goes to the house of the carpenter, — 

A long box is made ; he nails it ; 

It is carried and put in the wooden house. 

The black cloth is torn, 

They line the box ; 

Mr. Hunt is lifted into it ; 

The carpenter nails it down ; 

Fasten it down and let it remain. A 

The natives sing or chant the above, with many others 
of their composing, in which they relate his love to them, 
with his sayings and doings while among them. 

11. I visited the grave of Mr. Hunt, as I expected 
to leave Vewa the next day, and set out an acacia tree 
at the head and at the foot of the grave, and then took 
my leave of the spot forever. 

After this I visited the town belonging to Elijah, 
w T here, by the desire of Mary Wallis, I planted some 
tamarinds and transplanted some geraniums. The slips 
of rose bushes and geraniums, with many other plants 



412 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

that I had taken from New Zealand, had grown most 
luxuriously. It is very easy to cultivate a garden of 
flowers in Feejee. 

12. I took leave of my very kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. 
Calvert, with their interesting little family of children, 
and once more joined the bark, which had carried me 
safely over eighty thousand miles. 

Navinde, who had been collecting "beech de mer" 
for Mr. W., had come from Ngau, and was on board 
when I arrived at the bark. I asked him about the re- 
port that had been in circulation respecting him and 
Thakombau. He said it was false, and got up by a poor 
man, to injure him. " Why should I kill Thakombau? 
If I kill him, it would be my own death. We are friends; 
I feel no enmity to him," said Navinde. I asked him 
how many men he had killed while at Ngau. He re- 
plied that three men had been concerned in stealing one 
of his pigs, and he ordered them to be killed. " Do 
they not kill people in America for stealing?" he asked. 
I told him they did not. "Well," he said, "it is not 
many years since people in England were hung for steal- 
ing." I presume he learned it from some of the English 
sailors, of whom there are many about here. 

13. We arrived at Motureke and anchored. A few 
hours after anchoring, we received letters and a basket 
of fine pine-apples from Lakemba, from Mrs. Lyth. 

The king of Lakemba, with many of his principal 
chiefs, has at length embraced the Christian religion. 
It is now fourteen years since the Wesleyans first ar- 
rived at Lakemba, where, although the king has hitherto 
refrained from embracing Christianity himself, yet he 
has not opposed his subjects, and the gospel has advanc- 
ed rapidly in that region. Cannibalism has been abol- 
ished from that isle ever since the missionaries arrived. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 413 

18. Since my last date, we have passed down the 
coast of Vetelavu, and are now anchored at Nandy, 
(not where the mission is located ; the place of this 
name before mentioned as being the scene of the hurri- 
cane, is situated on Vanualavu,) buying yams in great 
abundance. This is the birthplace of Phebe. We have 
given her liberty to go on shore, but no one as yet ap- 
pears to notice her, although many natives are visiting 
the vessel. We have some Vewa men on board, who 
tell us not to let her go ashore alone. 

19. Yesterday Phebe's mother came to see her after 
I had recorded the above. She kissed (Feejee fashion) 
every part of her child's face, and shed some tears. 
Mr. W. gave her presents, and then she wished to 
return ashore. She told Phebe that she had better re- 
main where she is, and did not invite her to visit her 
home. They parted without any emotion, and Phebe 
says, to-day, that she would like to go to America again. 

The Glide, which has been presented to Elijah for his 
services during our voyage, has just left for Vewa. 
Eleven Vewa men, who have been in the employ of the 
bark, and two white men, have also left, and our com- 
pany is quite reduced. We are now all ready for sea. 

24. We have no favoring wind, as yet, to fill our 
sails and bear us hence. Yesterday the cutter belong- 
ing to the mission arrived on its way to Ndronga. Elijah 
came in it, and we had the pleasure of receiving letters 
from our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Calvert. 

A Sydney cutter, commanded by Capt. Allen, vis- 
ited us yesterday. He has lately been robbed of 
nearly all his stores and trade. As his vessel was very 
small, he bought a little island near the large one, called 
Vetelavu, where he deposited the most of his trade and 
stores, leaving two white men and a boy to take care of 



414 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

the same. The chief who sold the land told the pur- 
chaser to shoot any natives who should come to molest 
them. The men, being ignorant of Feejeean courtesy, 
supposed that they had full liberty to shoot Feejeeans 
when they chose, than which nothing was farther from 
the mind of the chief when he told them to do it. A 
chief may club and kill his subjects at will, but he 
never wills that they should be killed by white men; 
even a blow from a white man is remembered, and no 
opportunity is lost of avenging it. 

Some time after the white men had taken possession of 
the isle, a native came one day to get some cocoa-nuts, 
when one of them fired a musket, and the ball made a 
plain path over the top of the man's head, carrying away 
the hair and skin. Soon after this affair, several more 
came to gather cocoa-nuts, when the white men made 
them prisoners, took away their clubs, spears and ca- 
noes, and gave them to other natives. Such is a speci- 
men of their conduct towards the natives. They did 
not try to conciliate them, nor seemed to remember 
that their own lives were at the mercy of the natives by 
whom they were surrounded. They had been told many 
times that they would be attacked and killed, but the 
warnings had no effect upon their conduct. At length, 
about the 6th of the present month, they were attacked 
by fifty of their enemies. The arm of one of the white 
men was broken, while the skulls of three others were 
fractured, and their bodies were beaten with clubs until 
they were completely black and blue. The natives then 
took what stores and goods would be valuable to them, 
and destroyed the rest. They had been induced to 
spare the lives of the white men, hoping to receive a 
ransom, and took them, with the spoil, to the mountains. 
Capt. Allen arrived four days after the events record- 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 415 

ed above, and with the aid of a chief of some note in the 
vicinity, succeeded in liberating the prisoners, who are 
likely to recover, and it is hoped that they may learn a 
lesson of prudence and forbearance, should they have 
dealings in future with this race of cannibals. 

The two vessels have left this morning, and our bark 
is once more under way. There is no wind, and we are 
resting quietly upon the glassy bosom of the waters. 

26. On the 22d a severe gale commenced, and lasted 
for three days, during which no injury was experienced 
except the loss of sails. 

Jan. 15, 1850. At sunrise we heard the welcome cry 
of " Sail oh!" and about 10 o'clock, A. M., the Ameri- 
ican whale ship, Uncas, came within hailing distance, 
and the captain came on board and dined; after which 
Mr. W. and myself accompanied him on board the Un- 
cas, where we were introduced to Mrs. Edwards, the 
captain's wife. We enjoyed a social chat, took tea, and 
returned to the bark at dusk. There is something novel 
as well as delightful in going out to tea on these lone 
waters, where we never before saw a sail except our own. 

16. Capt. Edwards and wife passed the day with 
us, and we found it quite too short; although but ac- 
quaintances of yesterday, our intimacy seems of years. 

18. The Uncas still remains in company. 

19. We have lost sight of our friends. 

22. The Uncas came in sight at daylight, and spoke 
us at nine o'clock. The captain said, " You are in my 
debt. I have come for my pay. I shall send my boat 
for you and Mrs. Wallis to come here and spend the 
day." Accordingly we went on board and passed a 
most delightful day. We have had calms and light airs 
for some time, and our progress is slow. We cannot 



416 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

find the monsoon. It must have blown away during the 
gale that we had ofFFeejee. 

23. A fine breeze. The Uncas has outsailed us on 
her way to Guam. Capt. Edwards has been from New 
Bedford about six months, and has been quite successful 
in getting oil. 

Feb. 7. Our anchor was cast in Manilla Bay at 
about six o'clock, P. M. The captain and Mr. Saun- 
ders (a passenger from Feejee) went ashore to get our 
letters from home, to hear the news, &c. We had heard 
nothing from home since we left, and looked with anxiety 
and pleasure for our communications. At nine o'clock 
I heard the paddles of the returning banca, and soon 
after Mr. W. and Mr. S. came on board, each bearing a 
little bundle in his hand. I met them at the companion 
way, and held out my hand to receive the letters. 
" Here are some cakes that Mr. P. has sent you, with 
an invitation for you to reside at your old quarters at the 
house of Peel, Hubbell and Co., during our stay at Ma- 
nilla," said Mr. W., as he put the bundle into my hand. 
"But where are the letters?" I asked. I was told that 
there were none for any of us. We passed into the 
cabin, ate some cakes, and in due time retired to rest, 
and to dream of home if we could. 

3. We left the bark, and were welcomed at the house 
of Peel, Hubbell, Co., by Messrs. Edwards and Pierce 
and Mr. Towne. We learned that some changes had 
taken place among the managers of the house. Mr. Ed- 
wards has received the appointment of American Consul, 
and Mr. Osborne has left the firm and returned to 
America. Mr. Pierce, of Salem, is his successor. After 
dinner we enjoyed a pleasant drive on the Calsada. 

9. My girl, Phebe, came on shore and the child of 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 417 

Mr. Saunders, who, with her father, came as a passen- 
ger in our bark from Feejee. 

The small-pox is raging fearfully in Manilla. Phebe 
and Mary Saunders are to be vaccinated at once. 

28. The United States sloop of war, St. Mary, ar- 
rived. The Consul called on board and invited the 
Commodore, with his Secretary, to reside here during 
their stay at this place. 

March 1. Commodore Geisenger, with his Secretary, 
Mr. Sleigh, and several of the officers of the St. Mary, 
dined here yesterday. 

In addition to our usual afternoon drive, the Commo- 
dore, Mr. Pierce, my husband and myself, enjoyed a 
delightful drive about the suburbs of Manilla by moon- 
light. 

2. Our hosts gave a dinner party to the Commodore 
and his officers, and the house of Russell, Sturgiss 
& Co. It was a splendid affair. I received an invita- 
tion to spend a day with Mrs. Steele, of the ship Anstiss, 
of Boston, commanded by Capt. Steele, which arrived a 
few days since from Hongkong. 

3. I passed a pleasant day with Mrs. Sturgiss and 
Mrs. Steele. The house occupied by Mr. and Mrs. 
Sturgiss is most delightfully situated at a little distance 
from the road leading to the balsa, surrounded by green 
fields and flower gardens, and is decidedly the most 
beautiful country seat to be seen about Manilla. The 
house of Russell, Sturgiss & Co., gave a dinner to the 
Commodore and his officers and the house of Peel, Hub- 
bell &. Co. About eight in the evening, Mr. Sturgiss, 
Capt. Steele and Capt. Wallis joined us. We then took 
tea and returned home. 

5. The Commodore and suite left the house, expect- 
21 



418 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

ing to sail in the evening. At 10 o'clock, A. M., the 
Commodore sent his boat, and an invitation for Mr. W. 
and myself, with several others, to visit the St. Mary. 
We were shown over the vessel, partook of an elegant 
collation, and then returned delighted with our visit. 

10. Whatever road we take during our afternoon 
drives, we meet the dead that are being borne to their 
graves. They are mostly children, who have died with the 
small-pox. The bodies are dressed in the most ludicrous 
manner, and carried through the streets on a tray, or 
bier, while their faces are horribly disfigured by the dis- 
ease. Thus they are borne along, spreading infection 
through the streets and among the numerous inhabitants 
of the places where they pass. 

14. The American ship, Vernon, arrived from Hong- 
kong. Capt. McKay is accompanied by his wife. 

20. All being in readiness, we took leave of our 
truly hospitable hosts, who had so kindly received and 
entertained us so many times, and rejoined our bark to 
wend our way homewards. 

21. The weather is delightful. A gentle breeze fills 
our sails and we are homeward bound. 

Every precaution has been used to prevent the small- 
pox from spreading, but Mr. Saunders, one of the pas- 
sengers, is now sick with it, and we fear he will not 
have it lightly. 

28. The weather continues fine. Mr. S. has recov- 
ered, and was dismissed from the hospital this morning. 
It was purified as soon as he left, and a negro, named 
John Battis, has taken possession, being sick with the 
dysentery. 

9. We anchored off North Island at sunset. The 
British bark, Enmore, Capt. Dunsford, anchored near. 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 419 

She is in rather a leaky condition, her crew being obli- 
ged to work at the pumps half an hour once in two 
hours. Capt. D. spent the evening with us. 

14. The poor negro died and was buried in the deep, 
and there was none to mourn or care for his loss. The 
flag was raised half mast, the funeral service was read, 
and although there was no exhibition of grief for the de- 
parted, yet all appeared, and no doubt felt, the solemnity 
of the scene. 

May 27. We had a severe gale of wind, which com- 
menced on the 23d and lasted till the 26th. A part of 
the bulwarks, several of the ports and portions of the 
head-rail were stove ; the vessel leaked some in her 
upper works, and we were all sufficiently uncomfortable 
while the gale lasted. 

28. An active, interesting Portuguese lad, whom Mr. 
Wallis shipped in Manilla, was taken sick, and was car- 
ried to the deck cabin that he might have proper attend- 
ance, and be made as comfortable as possible. His 
mind was somewhat wandering during the day, and at 
night became more so. He constantly imagined that 
every one wished to kill him. He came into the lower 
cabin, with tears streaming down his cheeks, and the 
perspiration standing in large drops on his forehead, his 
hair disordered, and his body convulsed with an agony 
of fear, asking, " What for you want to kill me, Capt. 
Wallis? I no hurt you. I want to go home and see my 
father." After a time he was prevailed upon to return 
to the cabin on deck, where he soon became so violent 
that his hands and feet were bound, and it was some- 
times more than two men could do to manage him. His 
shouts and ravings during the night and the next day 
were fearful and distressing to hear. 



420 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

30. Antonio de Roce appears somewhat exhausted 
from continual and violent raving, but his fever is ex- 
ceedingly high, and no hopes are entertained of his re- 
covery. 

June °2. Antonio breathed his last about six o'clock, 
P. M. His sufferings during his sickness were truly se- 
vere, but his death was as gentle as the slumbers of an 
infant. 

3. Antonio was buried with the usual ceremonies. 
He was a native of Fayal, and of respectable parentage. 
He had been absent from home about sixteen months, 
and was very anxious to return. His promptness in 
duty, and the kindness of his disposition, had endeared 
him to his shipmates, and they sorrowed for his loss. 

On the first day of the month we experienced another 
violent gale, although we had doubled the stormy Cape, 
and thought we were where gales were not preva- 
lent, but we found, to our discomfort, that the winds 
in this region could raise heavy seas that caused our 
bark to groan, that washed in upon our decks, that 
could break in cabin doors, carry off a billet head, split 
a staysail, carry away halyards, and, in short, could cut 
up as many pranks as any Cape gale. 

14. We anchored off the Island of St. Helena. Here 
we found the ship Anstiss, which we left at Manilla. 
She sailed eight days after us, and arrived a few hours 
before. As soon as the anchor was down, our friend, 
the American Consul, came on board, and we accom- 
panied him to his residence, where we found Mrs. Car- 
roll, Capt. and Mrs. Steele, of the Anstiss, and Capt. 
and Mrs. Plummer, of the ship St. Petersburg, of 
Boston. 

The evening passed pleasantly at the Ex-Consul's, with 



LIFE IN FEEJEE. 421 

music and conversation. At one time during the evening 
we missed him from our company for a few moments. 
On his return, he handed a paper to one of his daugh- 
ters, who took her seat at the piano, and played off-hand 
to the tune of " Yankee Doodle," a song in which the 
names of each gentleman were introduced, with an allu- 
sion to their business, and also something complimentary 
to their wives. I need not say that this extemporaneous 
production produced great applause. 

15. At six o'clock, A. M., I took leave of our Amer- 
ican friends, who were to sail for home at ten, and 
mounting a one horse carriage in company with Mrs. 
Carroll, we started for Longwood. We saw appear- 
ances of rain, but they did not deter us. We went on 
and soon the rain descended in torrents; but being well 
sheltered beneath cloaks and umbrellas, we kept dry, 
and before we reached Longwood, had fine weather. 
So much has been said about the ride to Longwood and 
Longwood itself, that I will add nothing farther, except 
that we looked down horrible gullies and ravines, and 
found the house where Napoleon lived and died, a mis- 
erable looking place. I considered the view from Long- 
wood rather pretty; the new house, too, is beautiful, 
and the flowers that surround it still more so. 

We returned about twelve; after which we visited the 
grave of the excellent Mrs. Judson, about which so 
much has been said by those who have visited it, that I 
should fail in an attempt to present any thing new. 

At three o'clock we went on board. The Anstiss and 
St. Petersburg sailed a few hours before. The vessel 
was soon under way, and we felt that we were bound 
home in earnest. 

25. We have had favoring winds since leaving St, 



422 LIFE IN FEEJEE. 

Helena, and to-day have crossed the Equator. All 
hands are as busy as possible in fitting and cleaning for 
home. 

July 10. We encountered large quantities of the 
Gulf weed; this is a delightful sight to the homeward 
bound. 

16. Ran into a fog bank, which told us that we were 
near land. 

18. Our anchor was cast in Salem harbor, — we were 

at HOME. 



GENERAL RETURNS OF FEEJEE DISTRICT, 1847. 

Chapels 36 ; other Preaching Places 20; Missionaries 7 — now increased 
to 9 5 Native Teachers 36 ; Day School Teachers 1G6 5 Local Preachers 
60 j Class Leaders 90; Church Members 1,060; On trial for Church 
Membership 200 3 Day Schools 44 ; Scholars of both sexes 2,000 5 Total 
number professing Christianity, including all the above and about thirty 
regular residents from various parts, 3,500. The above is as near as I can 
state at present. The schedule is not yet made out. 

J. Hunt. 



ERRATA. 

Page 36. Seventh line from the top, for " Bau," read Bua. 

Page 59. Sixth line from the top, for "the civilized lady continued," 

read so says the civilized lady. 
Page 61. Ninth line from the bottom, for " Queen of Egypt," read the 

wife of Potiphar. 

Page 121, Thirteenth line from the bottom, for " vals/ ; read valo, valo. 
Page 158. Fourteenth line from the bottom, for " Saka," read Sanka. 



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